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Old 09-30-2018, 09:58 PM   #1
Rochester
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1995 SL1
Default Replaced Clutch Cylinders

I've noticed recently that I had to push the clutch in harder and harder in order to get it to work, as in not more force, but more distance - at least until this week when I found myself practically standing on the clutch to get that last little quarter-inch needed to be able to shift gears smoothly. The clutch fluid was low and topping it up did not help. The cylinders must have been bad or leaking somewhere. Time to replace them!

I did that today. The book said the two cylinders had to be replaced as a single unit. Getting the old ones out was easier than I thought it would be - the hardest part was removing the clip on the top of the pedal, the one that holds the end of the bar that comes out of the master cylinder. I had to lie with my back on the door sill and my butt on a folding chair outside the car in order to both see and reach the clip at the same time!

Getting the new one in was a bit harder, as threading it between all the cables and hoses under there and especially getting it around the brake cylinders was difficult, and I didn't dare be rough with it lest I kink or break the hoses on the new cylinder set that I paid almost a hundred bucks for! But I got it in, and got the clip back on, and in a few minutes I'm going to go drive it (if I did everything right and it works!)

I wonder if this might also fix another problem I've been having, when the clutch "sticks" in the down position, usually when I start using it after a long continuous drive, as when I leave an expressway and resume stop and go driving. The problem seemed worse on hot days. If the clutch did get stuck, a short, sharp kick straight down would free it, sometimes after two or three tries, and the problem happened more often on hot days. Only allowing the car to cool off for a couple hours would cure it completely when it happened.

Does anyone else have the latter problem? If so, did it turn out to be the cylinders?

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Old 09-30-2018, 10:16 PM   #2
Waiex191
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1999 SL2
1998 SC2
Default Re: Replaced Clutch Cylinders

The only issue I've had is the cylinder goes too far to the floor to disengage. Also, you can buy the hydraulics for like $30.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=233551

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 10-02-2018, 06:30 PM   #3
hholbein
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1997 SW2
Default Re: Replaced Clutch Cylinders

Did your sticking problem after a heat soak/long drive on an 80F+ degree day also include a squeaking sound???


Anyway, glad to hear the swap out went fairly smoothly. I agree, working on the clutch pedal is no fun ergonomically!

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Old 10-03-2018, 12:08 AM   #4
Rochester
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Default Re: Replaced Clutch Cylinders

Quote:
Originally Posted by hholbein View Post
Did your sticking problem after a heat soak/long drive on an 80F+ degree day also include a squeaking sound???
It did! Usually the squeaking started before the sticking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hholbein View Post
Anyway, glad to hear the swap out went fairly smoothly. I agree, working on the clutch pedal is no fun ergonomically!
Thanks! It's worked so far, the clutch works great!

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Old 10-03-2018, 01:43 PM   #5
hholbein
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1997 SW2
Default Re: Replaced Clutch Cylinders

Interesting. I recently injected some Sylglide into my Clutch master piston assembly from under the steering wheel assembly (jasenpeters post a few months ago) and that stopped the squeak. Perhaps it will prolong the clutch master cylinder from wearing out like yours did for another 5+ years!

Mine would reliably squeak above 85F. Super annoying.

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