Intake manifold gasket replacement?

[SaturnManiac]

Okay so now my intake manifold gasket has gotten to the point where it's starting to leak coolant. First of all, how long can I run it like this?! Secondly, I am thinking of attempting to do this repair on my own, but I have searched the forums and not found a thread about the procedure to replace it on a third gen DOHC engine. I would be doing this on my 2000 SL2. Would anybody be able to upload the procedure from a FSM for my car?!

[SaturnManiac]

Anyone?! Please.

[Uzzy]

I don't know how to do it, but I don't think it is beyond a beginner, but it will take a while. Maybe an Haynes/Chilton's manual would be a good investment first. I had to get mine done on my 2002 SC1. My friend at the dealer did it. It was covered under warranty. He said it pays 4 hours with the coolant flush included, and he can normally knock them out in about 45mins. He's done a lot by now. I'd say if you can do it in 4hours, it'll be very impressive. Good luck. You might as well flush your coolant in the process as well.

[ssicarman]

To lazy tonight to write it out how I do it.

From the service manaul.

Intake Manifold Replacement (DOHC LL0)
Removal Procedure
Caution: Do not allow smoking or the use of open flames in the area where work on the fuel or EVAP system is taking place. Anytime work is being done on the fuel system, disconnect the negative battery cable, except for those tests where battery voltage is required.

Caution: Ensure that the vehicle is properly supported and squarely positioned. To help avoid personal injury when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for the vehicle on the opposite end from which the components are being removed.

Raise the vehicle.



Drain the engine coolant. Drains are located at the right front corner of the engine block and right-hand side of the radiator.



Place a 1 in x 1 in x 2 in long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle.



Important: Installation of the wood block prior to upper engine torque axis mount removal allows the mount to be easily removed without lifting or jacking the powertrain.

Remove the fastener at the bottom of the intake manifold that attaches the intake manifold brace to the intake manifold.
Lower the vehicle.



Disconnect the negative battery terminal



Remove the air inlet tube and the air filter cover, disconnecting the fresh air hose at the air inlet duct.
Remove the PCV valve hose at the cam cover.
Caution: Whenever fuel line fittings are loosened or disconnected, wrap a shop cloth around the fitting to collect fuel. Place the cloth in an approved container.

Relieve the fuel system pressure.


Remove the nut at the fuel line clip and disconnect the fuel line from the rail.



Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body.
Remove the throttle cable from the cable bracket.
Disconnect the vacuum harness from the throttle body.



Remove the following electrical connectors and harness wiring:
• The fuel injectors

• The throttle position (TP) sensor

• The idle air control valve (IAC)

• The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor

• The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve

Move the harness to the front of the dash.



Disconnect the heater and deaeration hoses at the intake manifold outlets.
Remove the power steering support brace.



Remove the fuel rail. ----I don't remove it. I see little reason to----



Disconnect the EGR pipe from the cylinder head.
Disconnect the vacuum hose at the brake booster.
Remove the accessory drive belt.



Remove the power steering pump assembly with the support bracket.
Remove the upper power steering pump bracket attachment bolts and position the pump next to the right-hand front of the dash panel, away from the cylinder head and intake manifold.


Remove the 3 right-hand, upper engine torque axis mount to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood, and remove the mount



Remove the resonator and air cleaner box.
Disconnect the air temperature sensor.



Remove the transaxle strut-to-midrail bolt.



Rotate the top of engine forward and secure the engine with tie straps or mechanic's wire. The tie straps can be routed from the front engine lift hook to the radiator support.



Remove the intake manifold fasteners and remove the intake manifold.







Installation Procedure




Important: Ensure that the cylinder head and intake manifold gasket sealing surfaces are clean. Refer to DOHC (LL0) Cylinder Head section for inspection requirements. Inspect intake manifold gasket for cuts, nicks, or swelling. Replace if any of these conditions are found.

Assemble the EGR pipe assembly to the intake manifold.
Tighten
Tighten the EGR pipe-to-intake manifold (LL0) 10 N·m (89 lb in).

Install the intake manifold onto the attaching studs.
Install the intake manifold attaching nuts.



In sequence, torque the intake manifold attaching nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the intake manifold-to-head (LL0) to 13 N·m (9.5 lb ft).

Install the EGR pipe with a new gasket to the cylinder head.
Tighten
Tighten the EGR pipe-to-cylinder head (LL0) to 25 N·m (19 lb ft).





Connect the heater and deaeration hoses to the intake manifold outlets.
Important: Lubricate the O-rings at the injector tips prior to installing the injectors into the intake manifold.

Install the fuel rail.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel rail attachment bolts to 12 N·m (9 lb ft).





Install the following electrical harness connectors and vacuum hoses.
8.1. Electrical connectors:

• The idle air control valve (IAC)

• The throttle position (TP) sensor

• The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor

• The fuel injectors (4)

• The EGR valve

8.2. Vacuum hoses:

The EVAP canister purge solenoid





Install the vacuum line to the brake booster.
Install the PCV valve and hose to the cam cover.



Assemble the fuel line nut to the fuel line stud at the intake manifold.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel feed line support clip-to-bracket (LL0) to 4.5 N·m (37 lb in).

Notice: Replace plastic fuel retainer whenever the fuel supply is disconnected at the fuel rail. Install the new retainer into the female cavity of the connection. Care must be taken to assure that the locking tab is centered in the window of the female cavity. Firmly press the female connection onto the male end until a click is heard, then pull back to confirm engagement. Pinched, kinked, or damaged fuel lines must be replaced.

Attach the line to fuel rail.



Install the power steering pump assembly and brackets.
Tighten
Tighten the power steering pump bracket-to-block to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).

Install the power steering pump brace.
Tighten
Tighten the power steering pump brace-to-block to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).





Install the accessory drive belt.
Install the transaxle mount to frame rail.
Tighten
Tighten the transaxle mount-to-frame rail to 70 N·m (52 lb ft).





Notice: To prevent engine front cover and mount damage, the three front engine mount-to-front cover nuts must be tightened down uniformly.

Install the engine mount-to-midrail bracket nuts first.
Next, install the 3 engine mount-to-front cover nuts.
Remove the block of wood from under the torque strut after the engine mount assembly is installed.
Tighten

• Tighten the engine mount-to-front cover nuts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

• Tighten the engine mount-to-midrail bracket nuts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).





Install the airbox assembly and attaching screws. Install the resonator and push in the plastic fastener.
Tighten
Tighten the air cleaner/resonator attachment bolts (all) to 10 N·m (89 lb in).





Notice: Whenever a throttle cable assembly is installed, make sure the locking tangs are engaged to the front of dash and the seal is properly installed. The cable should be installed so that the tangs are in a horizontal position to provide optimum sealing. Pull on the cable to ensure the tangs are engaged.

Connect the electrical connector at the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.



Install the cable retainer into the support bracket until the locking tang is engaged.
Connect the accelerator cable to the throttle lever.



Raise the vehicle.
Install the intake manifold brace to the intake manifold.
Tighten
Tighten the intake manifold support bracket-to-intake manifold (LL0) to 6.5 N·m (58 lb in).





Remove the support block.
Install the cylinder block drain plugs and close the radiator drain.
Tighten
Tighten the cylinder block drain plugs to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).

Lower the vehicle.
Fill the cooling system with coolant. Use DEX-COOL™ coolant.
Connect the negative battery terminal.
Tighten
Tighten the battery terminal bolts to 17 N·m (13 lb ft).

Prime the fuel system.
31.1. Cycle the ignition ON for 5 seconds and then OFF for 10 seconds.

31.2. Repeat the previous step twice.

31.3. Crank the engine until it starts. Maximum starter motor cranking time is 20 seconds.

31.4. If the engine does not start, repeat the previous three steps.

Start the engine and check for leaks.
Fill the cooling system surge bottle to the cold full line. Inspect the coolant level after the engine has run for 2-3 minutes.



Install the air cleaner tube and the air box cover.
Attach the fresh air hose to the air cleaner tube.

[harley2003]

Did it on my 96 SL1 not too hard but some of the nuts were hard to undo, you have to go under the car for some and over on top for the others, may take more than 4 hours to do.

[rc1488]

Im pretty sure theres a how-to for this with pics

Richpin: While your operating on your nephew's car maybe this part of the procedure could become a video?

[SaturnManiac]

Originally Posted by rc1488

Im pretty sure theres a how-to for this with pics

Richpin: While your operating on your nephew's car maybe this part of the procedure could become a video?

I didn't see a how-to with pics, and wow that sounds involved removing all that crap, LOL. I might just suck it up and get Saturn to do it...maybe I can get a donation because I'm poor as hell, LOL.

[rc1488]

A small time repair shop should be able to do it also with a lower cost

[bobbyrae]

Originally Posted by ssicarman

To lazy tonight to write it out how I do it.

From the service manaul.

Intake Manifold Replacement (DOHC LL0)
Removal Procedure
...

Thanks for posting all that. It looks fairly similar to what the SSM says for my '93 DOHC, but I remain skeptical. In my case, I can see almost NO WAY to get at the manifold bolts unless I remove the fuel rail and/or the starter. From underneath, I cannot even see any of the mount studs, let alone get my hands on them. I am hoping they are all accessed from the top or sides on my car. From below just seems like a nightmare, because it would necessitate removing the starter and possibly alternator.

So it would be really nice if someone could point us to an actual how-to that someone submitted. I have searched also and can't find anything that convinces me I can do it. At the moment I am losing about a quart of coolant every 300-400 miles. Maybe that's what accounts for my higher-than-average gas mileage!?

[ssicarman]

What I posted is for a newer car but the basics are about the same.
Did you catch the part where it says to tip the top of the engine forward and tie it there? Easier to get to the intake nuts that way.

As for losing coolant why would you be considering the intake on your 93? Unless it is leaking coolant from the one coolant passage it has you need to check other areas. The 2000 to 20002 DOHC engines can leak from the intake coolant passage due to a known gasket problem but the older S-series don't have this as a common problem.

For coolant leaks I would look at the water pump, rad and hoses. Not mention if you are running low mileage numbers then have a look at the PCM coolant temp sensor for cracking. If it is cracked it will send the wrong info to the PCM and the car will run rich. Not to mention possibly over heat and puke coolant out of the coolant surge tank through the rad cap due to boiling over.