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Old 04-07-2002, 04:52 PM   #1
Fuhreal
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Default K&N Replacment filter for Filter Charger

Hey y'all Just a quick question. I've been having serious problems with my saturn for a while, tried many things... previous posts of mine will explain the problem, but anyhow, I'm taking some steps and I've just noticed that I've over tightened my K&N filter. I have the K&N Filter Charger system that SPS offers. It seems like the metal plate on the top of the filter, where the bolt comes through, is cracked, therefore the bolt doesn't stay put. I'm looking for a replacement for it and am wondering if the K&N replacement filter on the SPS site would do the trick. Its product

K&N RU-2820 Cone Filter . I cannot tell by the picture if this is the same filter as offered in the filter charger package, which has a hole for a sensor in it. Any info would be much obliged.
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Old 04-07-2002, 05:35 PM   #2
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Idea

If it's just the bolt and plate not tightening, you can stop by some Auto or even Home center for replacement bolt and clamp to retrofit back?

Or there's some other problems for your Air charge unit?
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Old 04-07-2002, 07:22 PM   #3
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Default Coool

Yah i just went to Home Depot got some washers n a bolt, made a little adjustment and got it to sit correctly... Still having a serious problem with my car, its not firing correctly, new EGR new Solinoid, its like there's too much exhaust going into the engine and not enough o2 .... Think it may be the computer, or the spark plugs..... dang i'm hating my car...
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Old 04-08-2002, 01:40 PM   #4
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Roll Eyes

So is the SES light turned on? I wish it does so you can download the code and see what the heck is going on.......

New EGR & Solenoid in place already, what about the O2 sensor? And when you install the Charger unit, did you re-plug back the Air Temp sensor near the air box area too?
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Old 04-08-2002, 07:11 PM   #5
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Default Grr

Yah Its readying something wrong with the O2, i replaced that as well, but still problems. Replaced the temp sensors, the only thing i haven't replaced sensor wise .. is the one that plugs into the air filter. I did the MAP as well, everything... it really sucks... its a used engine i dropped in a few months ago, and as soon as i did, this is the case. What happens is, the engine isn't firing as fast as it should there is a delay when i excelerate, and when a constant exccel it jumps like the clutch is slipping but its not... i hate this car, well i hate whats happening. I've been driving with the EGR dis connected foor the last 2 months. THIS SUX!!!!
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Old 04-08-2002, 08:03 PM   #6
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Dizzy

Wait, you dropped in a used engine into this car? Are you sure the original PCM (car computer) is compatible to the drop-in engine?

What year is the car and year of the engine? Single cam to Twin cam conversion? Did you get the code from the SES and why it sets it on?
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Old 04-08-2002, 08:12 PM   #7
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Its a 93 car, and the engine is supposed to be a 93 as well and i belive it is because the exhaust manifold is the same. I dropped it in cuz i blew the old one with a bad downshift while cornering against a stock prelude.. twas fun, but problems since. The code is Ummm an O2 code. I don't know what number but the SNAP on computer i use says the o2 censor isn't working I was told I may need to replace the PCM but i was also told the PCM is actually blank when brand new so... i dunno what to do
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Old 04-09-2002, 09:47 AM   #8
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Default O2 Sensor???

Ok, I'm not going to tell you what IS wrong, because I can't tell from here. But.....


An O2 Sensor is only a resistor that gets hot and cold with the exhaust. Hot? More resistance. Cold? Less resistance. This is how the computer knows what to do with the fuel/air adjustment.

Being such, it's only a very sensitive piece of equipment. Consider it a piece of fine china. You know the one, where it got shipped to you and was cracked but you didn't know it until you went to pick it up out fo the box?

Ok, in other words, (like one I bought for my Chevy pickup), you may have just gotten a bad one. Unfortunately, with the price of those things, you can't afford to buy more of them to hope you get a good one. I'm at work right now, and don't have the time to go looking for the site, but there really is a set of instructions that tells you how to use your VOM (meter) to check it for resistance.
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Old 04-09-2002, 10:35 AM   #9
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Idea

Timberwolf has a good point, you may indeed got a bad O2 sensor. However, with the ignition just on (Not starting the car), use a volt meter to check if there's voltage out of the plug for the O2 sensor first. You should see 5V, if not 12V....(sorry I didn't recall the correct value, but above 5 for sure).

This step is just preliminary for troubleshooting, but I am still not sure if the used motor you dropped is perfectly match with your onboard car computer. (Just by looking at the header, exhaust manifold may not good enough) Can you see the Engine number on new block? It's a better indicator.....
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Old 04-10-2002, 09:34 AM   #10
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Where abouts on the engine do I look to see a number?? I checked but couldn't see anything. Must I remove something in order to see what the number is???? I hope its not the wrong engine.............
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Old 04-10-2002, 05:02 PM   #11
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Roll Eyes

Oops sorry I didn't mention: The Engine number is there but it's pain in the butt to look at. It's a lasar etched at the back of the engine block. You may need to get underneath the car and look for it with a flash light.

I think that's for security reason, so junkies can't scratch off the number so easily for fraud....
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Old 04-16-2002, 02:13 AM   #12
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Here's the number i got off the bblock

It's Either

8R2278334 or 8RZ278334 or 8K2278334
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