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Old 10-11-2005, 02:39 PM   #1
LelandC
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Default Changing front pads and rotors

I am going to be changing the front pads and rotors on my wifes 2003 Ion QC. She has almost 50K on it and it's time....

I was wondering if there is anything special I need to know before doing this? I've never changed brakes before but my brother-in-law has and he will be helping me.... Any specials tricks, tools, etc?

-Leland
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Old 10-11-2005, 05:11 PM   #2
golftango
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Here is a topic on this
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Old 10-11-2005, 07:04 PM   #3
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

wow, this was a nice discovery. I was actually thinking that I'll probably do any upcoming brake work myself. Thanks golftango for posting the link, and leland for asking the same question I would ask in a few months.
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Old 10-11-2005, 11:22 PM   #4
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

I changed mine a little over a week ago and everything is pretty much the way golftango described it. On my 04 QC I had a 2 little clips over the stud holding the rotor on. I went ahead and put them back on with the new rotors.
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Old 10-12-2005, 03:49 PM   #5
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

golftango,

I bought the same rotors you did at Autozone but I sprung for the ceramic pads which are like $20.00 more. Not sure if they are worth it or not?

-Leland
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:50 PM   #6
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2003 VUE 2.2L
Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

What do you guys think about these rotors and pads on ebay? Is it worth the money?

Thanks for any help.


Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=8003749614
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:56 PM   #7
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Just my non-profesional totally partial opinion, cross drilled and slotted rotors are total over kill when it comes to a road car. The reason that they are used in race cars is the prevent brake fade which results from the brake system overheating. You don't want to be doing 100+mhp in a race car and come the find out that your brakes don't work going into a turn.
Since brake fade isn't really a problem in street vehicles the solution isn't really needed, especially when the solution introduces problems of its own.
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Old 10-13-2005, 12:03 AM   #8
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Dang, I have 56,000 miles on my car and my pads and rotors still look brand new! I had my pads/rotors measured and was told I could still get another 25,000 miles out of them.
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Old 10-13-2005, 09:28 AM   #9
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by SonataInFSharp
Dang, I have 56,000 miles on my car and my pads and rotors still look brand new! I had my pads/rotors measured and was told I could still get another 25,000 miles out of them.
I got 163,000 miles out of my brakes. I would not have changed the rotors but I let the pads get too low and it cut into one of the rotors. When I started hearing metal to metal it was at the beginning of my route and I had to put about another 300 miles on them before the night was over. On both of my wheels the inside pads wore down before the outside. Has anyone else experienced this on their Ion?
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Old 10-13-2005, 02:14 PM   #10
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by delivery man
I got 163,000 miles out of my brakes. I would not have changed the rotors but I let the pads get too low and it cut into one of the rotors. When I started hearing metal to metal it was at the beginning of my route and I had to put about another 300 miles on them before the night was over. On both of my wheels the inside pads wore down before the outside. Has anyone else experienced this on their Ion?
The insides wore out first because the piston moves that pad. The outer pad relies on the slider pins. Your slider pins need to either be replaced, preferable with that many miles, or cleaned up and lubed.
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Old 10-13-2005, 03:27 PM   #11
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobwill
Just my non-profesional totally partial opinion, cross drilled and slotted rotors are total over kill when it comes to a road car. The reason that they are used in race cars is the prevent brake fade which results from the brake system overheating. You don't want to be doing 100+mhp in a race car and come the find out that your brakes don't work going into a turn.
Since brake fade isn't really a problem in street vehicles the solution isn't really needed, especially when the solution introduces problems of its own.

What type of problems can come from having cross drilled and slotted rotors? I kinda knew it was overkill, but I didn't think it could hurt. I am also heavy on the brakes and I was hoping these would last longer.
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Old 10-13-2005, 07:39 PM   #12
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by blasterguy128
What type of problems can come from having cross drilled and slotted rotors? I kinda knew it was overkill, but I didn't think it could hurt. I am also heavy on the brakes and I was hoping these would last longer.
You won't have any problems per say, your brakes will last a bit longer and brake fade will be almost nonexistant. If you're heavy on the brakes, then go for em, but any aftermarket rotor and pads will do...
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Old 10-13-2005, 08:01 PM   #13
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

http://www.automotivearticles.com/12...Practice.shtml
Quote:
Many asked about the cross drilled rotors and how they help cool the brake system. Well here is the short answer, air cools them, and without ducting running to your brake discs they are hardly more effective than your standard ventilated disc. The slotted rotors are for gassing, when the pads reach their operating temps or higher they start to gas or breakdown and the slots are there to allow the gas to escape.

So what cross drilled rotors do is reduce suface area decrease co-efficient of friction and are more prone to thermal shock, and cracking unless, you have a specialized braking system using, special brake fluid, stainless steel brake lines, venting all the necessary items to aid in convection
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Old 10-13-2005, 11:00 PM   #14
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by teebird
The insides wore out first because the piston moves that pad. The outer pad relies on the slider pins. Your slider pins need to either be replaced, preferable with that many miles, or cleaned up and lubed.
Thanks, I'll have to check into that
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Old 10-14-2005, 12:13 AM   #15
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by LelandC
I am going to be changing the front pads and rotors on my wifes 2003 Ion QC. She has almost 50K on it and it's time....

I was wondering if there is anything special I need to know before doing this? I've never changed brakes before but my brother-in-law has and he will be helping me.... Any specials tricks, tools, etc?

-Leland
use brake lube on all your contact points
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Old 10-14-2005, 05:00 PM   #16
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by golftango
You won't have any problems per say, your brakes will last a bit longer and brake fade will be almost nonexistant. If you're heavy on the brakes, then go for em, but any aftermarket rotor and pads will do...
The reason they are slot and drilled is so there is always fresh pad up. It actually will eat the pad. Cross drilled rotors tend to crack alot also. There is no benifit on a street car for them at all
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Old 10-14-2005, 05:17 PM   #17
bobwill
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Well, the whole reason is for heat dissipation, they leave more channels for gasses to escape, and they give more surface area for air to go over to cool them.
However, on a rotor as small as what's on the Ion you're really just cutting down on the surface area that is swept over by the rotor, which decreases the amount of friction they can generate, which will hurt your stopping performance.
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Old 10-14-2005, 06:12 PM   #18
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Default Re: Changing front pads and rotors

Thanks for all the help guys. I think I am going to get regular pads and possibly rotors. Mainly because in the article bobwill posted it said they last longer. Longevity is more important to me than stopping any faster. Plus for the money it dosen't seem like they will make that big of a difference unless you change your braking system as a whole.
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