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Old 03-03-2008, 08:50 PM   #1
jstin
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2002 SC2
Default How to open radiator drain plug - '02 SC2

I'm getting ready to change my coolant in my '02 SC2. I was under the car today changing the oil & ATF. While I was under the car I thought I'd take a look to see how to drain the radiator. I looks kinda tough to get to with the shrouds around it. I don't know if somebody broke the drain as it looks different than others I've used. No what I'd call a tab to get a pair of pliers on or anything. I've searched & found where some people refer to it as "10 mm." does that mean to use a 10mm allen wrench? I found where someone used a 1/4" drive extension also.

Thanks for any helpful suggestions.

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Old 03-03-2008, 09:49 PM   #2
eRic 02sc2
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Wrench Re: How to open radiator drain plug - '02 SC2

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

DRAIN & REFILL

See Figures 5, 6 and 7

Make sure the engine is cool and that the vehicle is parked on a level surface, then remove the surge tank pressure cap.

Position a large drain pan under the radiator drain plug on the right side of the radiator and engine drain plug under the right front of the block.

Open the radiator drain and remove the engine drain plug, then allow the coolant to drain from the system.

Close the radiator plug and install the engine plug to the cylinder block. Tighten the engine drain plug to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).

Fill the system through the surge tank using a mixture of water and the recommended type of antifreeze.

Start the engine and check for leaks.

After the engine has run for 2 or 3 minutes, add coolant as necessary to bring the coolant level to the surge tank FULL COLD line.

Install the surge tank pressure cap.

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Old 03-03-2008, 10:33 PM   #3
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1995 SL1
Default Re: How to open radiator drain plug - '02 SC2

Our '95 has the thumb tabs. You might have the square drive plug made for a rachet instead, or the bolt type. On our car I could see it clearly, but just the angle at where it became tight made it more or less impossible to get a good grip on it without removing the lower deflector tray assembly.

In your case it sounds like it's worth it just to get a clear look at what you're dealing with.

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