short throw shifter

[quiksc2]

I'm making my short throw shifter at work while the boss is on Christmas vacation, and I was wondering how much the point where the cable attaches is extended on the aftermarket ones.

I already have the whole thing apart, and the brackets sandblasted. I thought about powdercoating them, but for now I'm just going to use some Rustoleum on them. I'm polishing the shaft up, because I don't have a shift boot. I thought about making a gated shifter, but the throw is already so short where the console comes up, that it wouldn't be much of a gate...

Also, the shaft is 9/16s, so any shift knob threaded as, say, 9/16 - 18 would work. Just use a die on the shaft, after you take it down a few thousandths with a dremel or something.

[Low Saturn]

When I made mine, I extended the part below the fulcrum until it almost touched the floor.

As for making the top portion threaded, make sure you can find shift knobs in that thread size first. When I did mine, I found that a bell housing to block bolt was the same thread size and pitch as a Chevy Cobalt leather knob. So I cut a couple inches off the top of the shifter and welded the threaded portion of the knob in its place.

Another thing to be aware of is the area the cables pass through the shifter frame. With the cables now being lower and having more movement than before, they'll hit the sides of the opening. It'll have to be enlarged in every direction.

Overall, its a pretty easy project if you have welding skills. I'm pretty happy with mine.

[KevinVarnes]

On the one that I'm making I'm raising up the shifter pivot 3/4" and lowering the cable attachment point below the pivot 3/4" so the cable position itself will be the same as a stock shifter.

[Low Saturn]

Originally Posted by KevinVarnes

On the one that I'm making I'm raising up the shifter pivot 3/4" and lowering the cable attachment point below the pivot 3/4" so the cable position itself will be the same as a stock shifter.

By your description, you're not accomplishing anything but removing 3/4" of material above the fulcrum. Thats not a short throw shifter.

[madpogue]

Actually,

Originally Posted by KevinVarnes

.... and lowering the cable attachment point below the pivot 3/4"

This means the distance between the cable attachment and the pivot is 3/4" more than stock, which makes for a shorter throw. Raising the pivot point, relative to the floor, by the same amount, means the cables pass through exactly as they did before (given the reputation of our cables, that's not a bad idea).

[quiksc2]

I've already cut tons off the top of my shifter, so as a shot in the dark, I was going to add .600 below the fulcrum. Also, I already machined out a block of aluminum .520 thick to raise the fulcrum, so the cable connects straight, just like stock. I don't think .08 is gonna be that big a deal... Plus, I'm putting everything back together with bolts, so I can always change it later. I read that the aftermarket ones don't have the dangly from the shaft, that it's solid. I was curios if anyone had some experience with this. I'm going to make mine with the dangly, but after I hook it up if I don't need it, I'm going to weld it solid.

I think Corvette used 9/16-18 for a while, so that would be perfect. I was already planning on making sure that some car with a huge aftermarket had something in 9/16, but I can use helicoils for something smaller, or drill and tap a knob. Or just make my own. My coworker made one out of aluminum, but I want something heavy. I have a chrome knob that I drilled out to fit, and it came with a set screw. Titanium would be cool, but probably too light. Oh, I know. Carbide. Not gonna be fun to make, but nice and heavy.

[KevinVarnes]

I don't have my models or measurements in front of me, but I think if you drop the cable attachment .600 below the main pivot you may still have enough of the original shift shaft to just redrill a new hole for the cable attachment bracket pivot pin (just pulled out the parts, may be a little tight on making that happen).

I think you are right that .080" is not going to make much difference in the cable alignment.

I am also going to cut about 1.25" off the top of the shift shaft (where the shift knob attaches) to make it a bit shorter. The shifter I got from the junkyard is already cut with a threaded shaft welded on to it so I'm not sure how it compares to a normal stock shifter.

[quiksc2]

Originally Posted by KevinVarnes

I don't have my models or measurements in front of me, but I think if you drop the cable attachment .600 below the main pivot you may still have enough of the original shift shaft to just redrill a new hole for the cable attachment bracket pivot pin (just pulled out the parts, may be a little tight on making that happen).

I think you are right that .080" is not going to make much difference in the cable alignment.

I am also going to cut about 1.25" off the top of the shift shaft (where the shift knob attaches) to make it a bit shorter. The shifter I got from the junkyard is already cut with a threaded shaft welded on to it so I'm not sure how it compares to a normal stock shifter.

Ya, I just drilled the hole .6 lower on the shaft. Plenty of room, especially since I'm using a 1/4-20 bolt instead of the slightly larger pin that was in there. I've cut about 3" off the top over the years, maybe more. It's almost ready to go together, I just gotta weld the extension on for the lateral movement, and mill the hole in my spacer plate that raises the pivot point up so the cables line up. I drilled the holes for the bolts, but forgot the big hole in the middle.

[KevinVarnes]

Make sure you make the hole in the spacer big enough so it isn't limiting the displacement of the shifter and you are able to get full cable travel. I'm actually making my spacer from two .375" pieces of material. The top plate will have a 1.50" hole to support the ball socket bearing and the bottom plate will have a 2.00" hole to fully clear the shift shaft below the main pivot. Not sure if you actually need all of the travel or not, but it can't hurt.

[quiksc2]

Originally Posted by KevinVarnes

Make sure you make the hole in the spacer big enough so it isn't limiting the displacement of the shifter and you are able to get full cable travel. I'm actually making my spacer from two .375" pieces of material. The top plate will have a 1.50" hole to support the ball socket bearing and the bottom plate will have a 2.00" hole to fully clear the shift shaft below the main pivot. Not sure if you actually need all of the travel or not, but it can't hurt.

Haha. So far everything everyone has posted I've seen at the end of the day, when I did what they posted before I saw it. I got it all done today, and brought it home. Hooked it all up, travel is just fine. Remember to cut the hole in the original bracket bigger. I'm close, but looks like it will clear just fine.

[quiksc2]

All done, in the car. I'll try to post a pic. I only raised it up .5", and it's just a hair away from hitting the center console. So, anyone attempting it, keep that in mind. Also, no boot will really work. I was going to try a gated shifter, but the lateral throw is so short that it won't really work. I had the universal rubber boot from the auto store before, upside down (can't remember who pioneered that idea), but now even that wont fit.

[quiksc2]

Here's the picture of the shifter before I put it in the car. If anyone has any ideas on something to keep the dust out of the assembly, let me know.

[snopro1379]

i got a 97 sw2 and am looking into doing some mods......what did you have to all do to accomplish making the new shifter....im a welder by trade so that wouldnt be a problem.........?????? of course its stick

[PurdueGuy]

Originally Posted by snopro1379

i got a 97 sw2 and am looking into doing some mods......what did you have to all do to accomplish making the new shifter....im a welder by trade so that wouldnt be a problem.........?????? of course its stick

Raise the pivot point, extend the lower end of the shifter, shorten the upper end of the shifter.