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Old 09-11-2016, 11:09 PM   #21
OldNuc
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

Get a new EGR as your present one is dirty and leaking badly, can not be fixed. Aftermarket valves tend to also leak so plan on being picky.

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Old 06-08-2017, 10:51 AM   #22
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

Resurrecting an old thread - I had planned to just bolt the exhaust back up but I am tempted to clean my precat now. I don't think I can undo the three bolts with a wrench, it will have to be a cutoff wheel.

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Old 06-08-2017, 04:06 PM   #23
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

Wire wheel the rust off of the exposed threads. Heat each individual nut to a dull red heat and allow to cool for a MINIMUM of 24 hours. Squirt with KROIL or PB Blaster or any spray penetrating product of your choice as the nuts cool. Quit spraying periodically when the penetrating oil quits smoking. They will come off with a 6 point socket. Initially rock the nut in the tighten and untighten direction until it turns.

You can protect surroundings with light weight copper sheet if you run into a heat cone problem.

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Old 07-05-2017, 06:13 PM   #24
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

When I posted in this thread I didn't realize the precat was the big canister on the manifold. Would I be better off getting a non-precat manifold? Headed to the JY tomorrow to get conrod bolts.

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Old 07-05-2017, 08:35 PM   #25
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

Which years had a manifold without a precat? By removing it, is it just a preventative to keep it from falling alpart and clogging? Any performance gain?

In post #4 and #7, it was talked about the sound. If the precat is gone and has no catcon, resenator, or muffler, how would that sound? Just some general info I wanted to find out. Thanks!

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Old 07-05-2017, 11:43 PM   #26
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiex191 View Post
When I posted in this thread I didn't realize the precat was the big canister on the manifold. Would I be better off getting a non-precat manifold? Headed to the JY tomorrow to get conrod bolts.
The down pipes are different for pre-cat manifolds so a standard manifold would not readily bolt up.

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Old 07-05-2017, 11:56 PM   #27
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

Plus it fails the eyeball test for original emissions equipment.

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Old 07-22-2018, 05:10 PM   #28
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Plus it fails the eyeball test for original emissions equipment.
Not trying to resurrect the thread, just adding my experience with the end result being this free cure.

Took a road trip about 500 miles each way recently. My wife had been driving the car (02 sc2) for the past 6 months. She had complained about the car losing some power during the time, but I had not driven it enough to notice anything unusual. The session light was on and off weekly, due to a slow upstream oxygen sensor.

Started out on a fresh oil change and air filter. About 100 miles into the trip, I cooked the smog pump. The diverter valve had failed open, and hot exhaust gas had flowed backwards through the valve and melted the smog pump. I don't know if the pump just quit and killed the valve or vice versa. Either way, the valve warped at the diaphragm and hot exhaust was coming from every opening it could escape. No big deal, I blocked the pipe off with a quarter at the valve end. Quick fix, right? Nope.

Made the rest of the trip, and fuel economy was steadily decreasing from the high 30's. By the time we got to the destination, we were below 30mpg. Checked codes and the car had more.
Logged faults we're p0133, p0404, p0405, and p1134.
Pending p0405.
Driving around town, I noticed that the car fell on its face at 4k rpm and above. Since the EGR valve is easy to get to, I blocked it off with some aluminum can to see what happens. No real change, little bit more top end but still hitting a wall on heavy throttle. Ran great city driving but horrible on the highway. I took the tin can piece out of the EGR and drove it around town during the trip.

Trip home was horrible. 22 to 25 mpg and couldn't pass up anyone. Took 10 hours instead of 9.

First thing I did troubleshooting was remove the lazy O2 sensor. Instant power recovery. I put the sensor back in and unbolted the flex pipe from the manifold. Power loss came right back. I shined a light into the bottom of the precat and everything looked ok. No clogged up or melted passages. After a little contemplating and finding this thread, I found a masonry bit and drilled a hole or two straight through to the top. Test drive immediately after revealed that a decent amount of lost power was restored. I came back home and drilled and chipped out the rest of the precat. Voila, full power restoration!

I have attached a picture of a few pieces of the failed precat. I'm guessing that the white stuff is burnt oil Ash.

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Old 07-22-2018, 08:38 PM   #29
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

Ok I had to resize the image to upload it. As you can see, the top of the pre-cat is totally covered with white ash. The stuff filtered into maybe the top inch of the assembly.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg img20180722_213015.jpg (189.2 KB, 11 views)

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Old 07-23-2018, 08:08 AM   #30
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

That is incinerated ceramic material from operating way over max temperature. This is caused by an excessively rich mixture usually the result of an exhaust leak. If the exhaust leak is not located and repaired you can also eventually cause the main CAT to fracture and breakup from excessivly high internal temperatures which also plugs the exhaust.

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Old 07-23-2018, 08:47 AM   #31
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Default Re: Clean out pre-cat

Now I feel vindicated that my precat was accidentally gutted.

Airplanes don't have catalytic converters but they do have mixture control. As you lean the EGT gets hot and then cold again. Full rich yields the lowest EGTs.

...
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'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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