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#1 | ||||
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 32
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![]() I found this: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61335
However not sure it will work on my SL1. Anyone know of any video tutorials or manuals for model?
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#2 | ||||
Super Member
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![]() A SL1 has no sway bar links to replace, I don't see how that thread could be of any use to you at all.
The front sway bar is pretty straightforward to replace...loosen the nut holding the bar to the control arm on both sides, detatch the control arms from the cradle, remove the 4 bolts at the front of the cradle holding the bushing straps in place and it comes right out. If you actually have a SL2 then it does have a rear sway bar and links to replace. Easiest way to get them off is to cut them; OEM links and a few replacement brands don't give you a decent way to hold the threaded end in place when you want to take the nut off and it just ends up spinning requiring you to cut it off anyway...best to just start by cutting the silly thing off. Installing should be simpler than a wheel change, put the link back through the hole and torque down the nut.
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#3 | ||||
Super Member
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![]() No such thing as "idiot proof"
![]() ![]() ... I'm not worthy to grovel in the shadow of Signmaster's wisdom 11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 141k DD 7/2010 Craigslist white 1997 SC2 project 12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles
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#4 | ||||
Advanced Member
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![]() Here's a RichPin video on replacing the front stabilizer bar on an SL2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPr3QnbqMpY ... 96 SW2 5MT
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#5 | ||||
Advanced Member
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![]() I used a come-along and some chain to pull the ends of the bar together a bit to get it to line up with the bushings in the lower control arm. I didn't have to separate the ball joint, etc as in RichPin's video.
Also, make sure the new bar is right side up when you go to put it in (yes I tried to put one in upside down once). I suggest pulling the old bar out and setting it on the ground or floor without flipping it over so you can compare it to the new one and make sure the new one isn't upside down. ... 96 SW2 5MT
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#6 | ||||
Senior Member
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![]() FiremanCV posted a nice video on replacing his ball joint and in that he deals with the sway bar. I find his videos are pretty good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yajcRGnsJ0U
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#7 | ||||
Senior Member
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![]() Also take a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiMpMPDf7s4
from The mech a nic.
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#8 | ||||
Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 70
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![]() If you have a carpenter friend, ask to borrow their 48" pipe or bar clamp.
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#9 | ||||
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 215
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![]() The pipe clamps I've seen are usually small-ish diameter black pipe. I think it would bend too easily, if it even fit over the handle.
... 2000 SL2 Automatic (back on the road) 17X,XXX miles. 1999 Chevy K3500
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#10 | ||||
Super Member
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![]() You can not pull al of this in with a clamp or a forest of clamps. Ratchet straps do work. With BOTH sides bushing clamps removed let the new bar down an put 1 end in place and then ratchet strap to get the other in place. Use the assembled side is the anchor point and not the cradle. This bows the bar slightly and it will go into the LCA easily. Then use a jack to get the bar back into place so you can attach the bushing clamps.
This works with both sides on jack stands and both wheels off.
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#11 | ||||
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 215
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![]() Oops, I can't edit my post.... I wasn't careful of what thread I was replying too. I was thinking of a cheater bar, not using the pipe clamp as a clamp.
... 2000 SL2 Automatic (back on the road) 17X,XXX miles. 1999 Chevy K3500
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