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Old 08-31-2003, 06:04 PM   #1
auxmike
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Cool Here's my famous cracked Coolant Temp Sensor Scan {ECTS}

This topic comes up every other day.Here's why you need to change this thing,regardless of how well your car runs.This one has only 55,000mi. on it!
A great souviner and conversation piece....
See the cracked ECTS here!

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Old 08-31-2003, 08:42 PM   #2
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Default Re: Here's my famous cracked Coolant Temp Sensor Scan {ECTS}

Quote:
Originally posted by auxmike
THere's why you need to change this thing,regardless of how well your car runs.
How often are we talking about?

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Old 08-31-2003, 09:20 PM   #3
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Well...you want the resin tip out the brass tip in.Should be a one time switch....
See the difference by clicking the link. New vs. old ECTS

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Old 08-31-2003, 10:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by auxmike
Well...you want the resin tip out the brass tip in.Should be a one time switch....
See the difference by clicking the link. New vs. old ECTS
I don't follow

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Old 08-31-2003, 10:17 PM   #5
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The brown tipped one's are put in at the plant.They crack,give false readings.The brass tipped ones are....well...BRASS,they won't crack.

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Old 08-31-2003, 11:00 PM   #6
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The Brass one is an updated design to eliminate the cracking problem. Once you install the brass one, you shouldn't have to replace it again (or at least not as often as the plastic ones that crack far too often).

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Old 09-01-2003, 07:54 AM   #7
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Sorry if the answer's already posted somewhere, but what years had the resin ECTS from the factory? I'm assuming they changed to brass as OE at some point.

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Old 09-01-2003, 08:13 AM   #8
gdelgrego
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1992 SL2
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Does anyone know if the brass sensor has a different part # from the plastic one? Mine was changed two years ago by the dealer... part # 21025106. Is it safe to assume they used a brass one? Any way to confirm without pulling it?

Thanks

...
07 Aura XE
92 SL2

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Old 09-01-2003, 08:48 AM   #9
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I bought two brass tipped from SPS in2/03,same pt# as you post.Hopefully when they went to brass they actually changed the p/n...

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Old 09-01-2003, 10:23 AM   #10
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1995 SL2
Default False Readings

Fm Mike
Quote:
The brown tipped one's are put in at the plant......They crack, give false readings.
In giving false reading to the computer, you'll notice a drop in your miles per gallon reading. You notice it.

...
> 95 SL 2 = 653,369 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 5/20/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable < The car was retired

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Old 09-01-2003, 02:14 PM   #11
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I pulled my plastic/composite ECTS the other day, as I was getting horrible gas mileage. Mine had one big crack like your's, and another hairline crack on the other side of the tip. Measured the resistance across the terminals of the sensor cold and hot, and it was within spec. Nonetheless, I imagine a cracked tip would give bad readings anyways.

Your ECTS looks mighty old. Mine's looked almost brand new except for the tip and a couple threads.

...
My reality check bounced.

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Old 09-01-2003, 02:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedPlayer 97sl2

Your ECTS looks mighty old. Mine's looked almost brand new except for the tip and a couple threads.
Mine's from a '97 as pictured.I guess the heat/elements age stuff faster...

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Old 09-01-2003, 03:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by auxmike
Mine's from a '97 as pictured.I guess the heat/elements age stuff faster...
Mine's is also from a 97 with 59K miles on it.

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Old 09-01-2003, 03:08 PM   #14
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I'm in NY.Harsh winters,road salt,owner before me probably did little maint to cooling system,etc.Cars up here take a beatin'.....

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Old 09-01-2003, 05:25 PM   #15
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Great pics Mike . they go a long way explaining the problem

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Old 09-01-2003, 06:10 PM   #16
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Two questions:

1) Do you have to drain the coolant to check this part?

2) What does the replacement part cost (ballpark figure)?

Thanks!

I am fairly sure that mine is original (at 112K+ miles and 10+ years).

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Old 09-01-2003, 07:34 PM   #17
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1) Best just to replace it rather than checking if you can't remember it ever being changed because:

2)It's only about $15-$20

The sensor is located on the driver's side of the cylinder cylinder head, a little behind and below the upper rad hose. The electrical connector is removed by squeezing it on it's high points. Relieve pressure in the cooling system by undoing the pressure cap, then re-tighten the pressure cap and undo the sensor. A little coolant will dribble out while you switch sensors. tighten the new sensor to 18-ft lbs, or snug - the sensor has thread sealant, and is tapered, so it's hard to mess up and cause a leak.

PS DO THE ABOVE ON A COLD ENGINE! DON'T BURN YOURSELF!

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Old 09-01-2003, 10:49 PM   #18
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Fm BWhite
Quote:
Great pics Mike . they go a long way explaining the problem
I'll strongly "second" that....

...
> 95 SL 2 = 653,369 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 5/20/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable < The car was retired

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Old 09-01-2003, 10:53 PM   #19
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My pleasure folks.Just takin' care of "family".

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Old 09-02-2003, 12:30 AM   #20
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Is there any way of knowing if your car already has a brass one without pulling it out? At what point did they move to brass?

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