What did you do to your S-Series today...

[Signmaster]

Originally Posted by 454cid

I'm hoping B12 Chemtool works for me.

Any reason in particular you're using a Ford filter? I know it's probably a contract build, and they have filters for lots of non-Ford vehicles, but it still seems weird to me, to put a Ford part on a GM.

Though it wasn't today, I used B12 followed by MMO.

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=237152


Just make sure to use something to lube the cylinders after the B12. That stuff has no film strength at all. Since I used the B12 first, I can't say how much better or worse than MMO it might be for loosening up carbon, but it did a good job.

[454cid]

Originally Posted by Signmaster

Just make sure to use something to lube the cylinders after the B12. That stuff has no film strength at all. Since I used the B12 first, I can't say how much better or worse than MMO it might be for loosening up carbon, but it did a good job.

Yes, I'll definitely put something in the cylinders before turning the engine over. Originally I planned on using MMO, but I've got some spray stuff, that might be easier. It's kind of a thick product for a spray, and I don't particularly like it other purposes.

If I use MMO, it'll have a little 2-stroke oil in it.... I'll use my mixing syringe

[OldNuc]

B12 has a good reputation as a ring cleaner as long as the condition has not reached the terminal stage where the cylinder and rings have worn out of spec. It is about all there is for a DIY quick fix that is readily available.

[Signmaster]

Originally Posted by 454cid

Yes, I'll definitely put something in the cylinders before turning the engine over. Originally I planned on using MMO, but I've got some spray stuff, that might be easier. It's kind of a thick product for a spray, and I don't particularly like it other purposes.

If I use MMO, it'll have a little 2-stroke oil in it.... I'll use my mixing syringe

If you have a decent sized syringe, you can use that to vacuum out as much of (whatever you put in) from the cylinders before cranking. Just put a piece of small fuel line or vacuum hose on the end and get it out.

I did that followed by compressed air vacuum rig before cranking mine over after the soak, and got very minimal smoke show. It actually started as quick as usual with just a puff of smoke, then a bit more as it came up to temp.

With a syringe you could get a lot of carbon off the tops of the pistons before cranking, and the MMO worked great for that. I used a squeeze bottle (think cafe ketchup squirter) so the vacuum to pull stuff out was limited. Had I used a syringe I think I could have gotten a better flush from all the stuff on top of the pistons.

[Saturn Night]

In "Geniune GM Parts" fashion, I got a damn "Service Engine Soon" light on my way to work.

Time to scan it and find out which "Pride of Delphi" electrical component is malfunctioned..........

Ironically, the car is running and driving perfectly fine.....code will probably scan as "No Apparent Reason"......

[SRGW]

Friday had a new muffler and strap installed. Saturday had to install a water pump.

1995 SL1 236,300 2005>2018
1997 SL1 75,200 2014>????
CHECK YOUR OIL!!

[alordofchaos]

Originally Posted by 98_Gold_Uranus

Parked it under the cover in the driveway for a couple days already... Found out that the sunroof leaks (surprise...) during out lovely weather this time of the year here in Florida. Didn't work already, looks like it's been sealed shut with black silicone sealant of some sort, it's dried out and splitting... I'll scrape the old stuff out, MIGHT try to figure out WHY it doesn't work, would be neat to get it working and maybe get it to seal correctly. But if all else fails I'll just reseal it...

Old thread linked here, not sure if he is still selling stuff (fixing my sunroof is on my list of things to do as well )

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=156881

The leaks are often related to the sunroof drains (one in each corner) being either disconnected or clogged. See trottida's post/diagram here

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=222895

[A2Saturn]

Had the garage replace my belt tensioner, idler pulley, and belt. This repair eliminated the unpleasant whirring sound from under the hood.

[454cid]

Finally got the new valve cover gasket on. I discovered a small crack the other day, and wondered how it happened. I think I figured it out today. The passenger side motor mount
interferes with the valve cover. I didn't try to move the motor mount. One of those bolt holes in the timing cover is already stripped and held in place with Loctite.

The crack doesn't look to go all the way through the plastic, so I don't think it will be a problem. The Felpro gasket looks like it should seal pretty well. The old one leaked oil into the plug wells. It looks like the timing cover was pulled, and the "mechanic" goobered up the original valve cover gasket with something like RTV. The old gasket was hard, and cracked or at least the center section came out in two pieces.

I'm also soaking my oil soaked truck carpet in the pan of degreaser I soaked the valve cover... it was really too weak for the valve covers baked on oil, but it might work on the carpet. I was going to toss it, but other than the dirty motor oil, it looked to be in great shape.

[focusofheart]

Originally Posted by 454cid

...
I'm also soaking my oil soaked truck carpet in the pan of degreaser I soaked the valve cover... it was really too weak for the valve covers baked on oil, but it might work on the carpet. I was going to toss it, but other than the dirty motor oil, it looked to be in great shape.

Just a suggestion - try combining equal parts of 2x or 3X Dawn Liquid Detergent and white vinegar into a spray bottle and use that as a carpet degreaser. Spray on liberally and let work for a few hours. Scrub the carpet a bit then rinse very well. That solution has many other uses as well for the home.

[454cid]

Originally Posted by focusofheart

Just a suggestion - try combining equal parts of 2x or 3X Dawn Liquid Detergent and white vinegar into a spray bottle and use that as a carpet degreaser. Spray on liberally and let work for a few hours. Scrub the carpet a bit then rinse very well. That solution has many other uses as well for the home.

Ok thanks. I'll see where I am with it, after the degreaser soak. It'll be several days before I get back to it... I'm working a lot, right now.

[Pitcher]

Driver's side Wheel Bearing, Race & Hub replaced.

Race was LOCKED IN - Presses couldn't get it out. Finally used a Dremel to release pressure.

All good AND no more pulling to the right!

[98_Gold_Uranus]

Bolted on a power release trunk latch. I can now open my truck with my key fob

It really is the little things that entertain me...

[454cid]

Got the new plugs and wires in.... still messing with the routing. I've got the plastic cover without the wire grooves. I've got a 3 and a 4 wire retainer. I couldn't figure out how they used to be routed, but I just looked at a picture I took. I think the new wires are longer.

The car runs, but still smokes. I still need to change the oil. It's old oil full of B12 Chemtool.

I checked the gap on the plugs, all but one were right on. I torqued the to 20lbs with my beam torque wrench with anti-seize on them. It was tighter than I probably would have gone by hand, but I wanted to use a torque wrench because of the aluminum.

Now I can finally move this thing around again!

[trottida]

Originally Posted by 454cid

I torqued the to 20lbs with my beam torque wrench with anti-seize on them. It was tighter than I probably would have gone by hand, but I wanted to use a torque wrench because of the aluminum.

To use anti-seize or not to use anti-seize that is the question. The NGK site says not to use it as it alters torque by an increase of 20%.

ngksparkplugs.com - 5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT SPARK PLUGS

1. Anti-seize

NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver- or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

2. Corona stain

Corona stain is observed as a light brown or tan discoloration above the hex (located on the ceramic body of the spark plug). Corona stain is created by oil or dirt particles surrounding the spark plug. Spark plugs create a high amount of static electricity as they fire, attracting these particles to the exposed ceramic between the plug boot and the hex. Corona stain is completely normal and should not be mistaken for exhaust gas blow-by or broken seals inside the spark plug.

3. Gapping fine-wire spark plugs

In the late 1980s, when fine-wire spark plugs first appeared, installers used incorrect gap tools and procedures resulting in bent or broken-off firing electrodes. As a result, many people assumed that one cannot adjust the gap on a precious metal plug. While most NGK spark plugs are pre-gapped, there are instances where the gap requires modification. NGK recommends a wire-style or feeler gage gap tool, which can adjust the gap without prying against the center electrode. NGK also recommends adjusting the gap no more than +/- 0.008” from the preset gap.

4. Torque

Torque is critical in the plug’s ability to dissipate heat and perform properly. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommended torque specification. An under-torqued spark plug can lead to excessive vibration and improper heat dissipation, causing spark plug and/or engine damage. An over-torqued spark plug may cause thread damage or breakage, or compromise internal seals within the spark plug, leading to improper heat dissipation or exhaust gas blow-by.

5.“Copper spark plugs”

“Copper spark plugs” is a term mistakenly used for a standard material spark plug. A standard material spark plug traditionally uses a nickel-alloy outer material fused to a copper core. Almost all spark plugs use a copper core center to conduct the electricity, jump the gap, and promote heat dissipation. However, as an outer electrode material, copper would not be a good choice, as it is soft and has a low melting point (resulting in a plug that would last minutes, not miles). Nearly all NGK spark plugs, including precious metals iridium and platinum, have a copper core. When one talks in terms of nickel alloys, platinum and iridium, one is referring to its durability, or how long a spark plug will last before it needs to be replaced. However, when one talks about copper, he or she is referring to its ability to conduct electricity that is needed to fire across the gap and ignite the air-fuel mixture.

[454cid]

Originally Posted by trottida

To use anti-seize or not to use anti-seize that is the question. The NGK site says not to use it as it alters torque by an increase of 20%.

Yeah, I probably should have gone lower than spec because of the anti-seize.

[focusofheart]

I began the process of wrapping my car today. I will have the car wrapped over the course of 3 visits due to my daily time constraints.

The shop receipt shows they used Oracal Premium 3.5 mil Cast Vinyl - 286 Bottle Green. So far I am very happy with how the surface has turned out.

shop link: https://updog.com/

This morning at 9am:



Completed:



These images were taken with an old flip phone so they lack sharpness. The images are also linked to the Photo Gallery where a larger image is available.

[focusofheart]

Originally Posted by focusofheart

...The shop receipt shows they used Oracal Premium 3.5 mil Cast Vinyl - 286 Bottle Green...

This correction is for Signmaster, because I am certain he can tell the difference in colors - LOL!

The shop ended up using 677 Fir Tree Green Metallic for the color wrap.

[Zeebins]

New valve cover day

[Waiex191]

Originally Posted by Zeebins

New valve cover day

Sharp!