update on my oil leak on my 04 Ion with pictures

[ddemier7]

I had made a earlier post about tracking down an oil leak on my 2004 Ion 2.2 ecotec with an automatic transmission. I inspected the bottom and it looked like the oil leak was coming from the oil pressure switch/sensor mounted on the front part of the engine and the oil pressure switch did have oil in the connector, so I replaced the oil pressure switch.

My starter was making a really weird growling noise the other day so I replaced the starter with a Autozone starter and noticed the original starter was covered in oil . I also noticed the oil leak was leaking from where the starter mounts. The oil leak did not go above the starter mount location so I can rule out the new oil pressure switch which is good, however this leak appears to be the rear main seal that's leaking on the fly wheel and throwing the oil all inside the bell housing and onto my new starter now.

Can I get some opinions on this and do you you Saturn experts think this is the rear main seal leaking?? my car has 207,000 miles on it now. What is the best way to fix the rear main seal? has anyone ever done this on a GM 2.2 engine????

[bern]

The seam between the upper block and the lower case is a common oil leak spot. To reseal: The oil pan, timing chain cover and lower case will need to be removed. parts needed are: RTV sealer , oil , 20 main cap bolts, front case seal front cover gasket and if the engine is removed rear crank seal ( only for PM)

[billysvue]

If the source of the leak is as bern states, most all the work noted above sounds like a perfect opportunity to do the T/balance -chain,W/pump, tensioner, etc.,,at the same time . It'd be a pity do it all, then have to tear into it again for the latter work.

[billysvue]

Originally Posted by ddemier7

Can I get some opinions on this

I'd make sure to rule out the oil filter cap/housing before going to all that trouble.

Try cleaning it up , again, if you haven't done so , to rule it out. Lots of rags, SImple Green /engine cleaner, gentle washing, more rags then a detailed inspect. Get some fluorexcent dye for the oil and cheap blacklight in a darkened area to pinpoint the source. Probably AMazon/Fleabay/ local FLAps may know of a source for it.

I left my filter cap slightly loose after one change. I don't rec'd it as the
" oiled starter" smell is disgusting!. It won't go away until the starter is cleaned up. But then, I'm sure you knew that.

If it is as Bern says, then it might be a great time to do the Tchain( etc) drill.

[ddemier7]

Its defenitly not leaking from the oil cap and my engine just had the timing chain, balance shaft chain and new water pump installed late 2014. Remember the oil can be seen inside the transmission where the fly wheel is and on the inside of the starter where the bendex is located.

I have engine degreaser at work so I will apply it to that area and rinse and inspect a couple weeks later and report back.

Bern: what exact part are you referring too "lower case" ? Do you mean where the oil pan bolts up too?

[billysvue]

Originally Posted by ddemier7

my engine just had the timing chain, balance shaft chain and new water pump installed late 2014.

Maybe the folks that did the work, didn't do the TChain cover/oil pan interface( sealing) as good as they could have( why it leaks). Maybe going back to that mech will help highlight possible causes. If they're up to par, maybe they'll help you out, as they'll feel a little guilty- even if it's out of warranty. YOu'll catch more flies with honey, if you know what I mean.

Maybe all it needs is a few bolts snugged up to the proper torque spec.

[ddemier7]

Besides this is on the drivers side of the engine. The ti.ing chain cover is on the passanger side of the engine.

[billysvue]

Oh yeah WEll, maybe just a few bolts are loose on the pan.

[bern]

[ddemier7]

So are you trying to say its my lower case thats leaking?

[bern]

You'll have to determine the source of the leaking oil.

If the lower case seam is leaking it will be worse behind the starter were the outer case bolt are inboard from the oil galley.

Their was or still may be a TSB for a oil galley plug on the back of the engine. The plug could leak inside the bell housing but this is only likely on almost new cars.

The best path to take is clean the area and monitor / inspect again.

and disregard oil seepage and fix only real leaks.

[billysvue]

Originally Posted by billysvue

Oh yeah WEll, maybe just a few bolts are loose on the pan.

Or the lower case.. I guess if the casting is less than satisfactory or sealer application( same) the title is the result. Iwouldn't mess with it unless it's leaking quite a bit, as bern mentioned already. It would be quite an effort to tear down theengine to that point(for just some seepage) when an occassional rag wipe down/engine cleaner could keep things from polluting the undercariage.

[ddemier7]

Yes its leaking quite abit. Its leaving a small puddle if I leave my car ideling for a bit. Im having to add oil often. Just looking for any adice on tourque specs and how to access the rear main seal. ( what parts in order to remove to access seal. )

[hoosierrun]

I don't know if you saw my post on a big oil leak I'm having on a 2006 Vue, 2.2. It sounds identical to yours. After completely replacing the pan, I still have the same leak and it appears to be either the rear main seal or the upper seam which is the cradle for the entire lower main bearings. It looks like a lot of work to pull the lower block off and re-seal that.... plus it very well could be the rear main seal which would mean the tranny has to be removed to make that repair. I would not go through all the work of pulling the lower block cradle, only to put it all back and still have a leak from the rear main.

My plan is to wait for tranny problems. Then if I decide to pull the tranny, I'll take care of all the leaks at that time. In the mean time, I put a bottle of Bars Leak Rear Mail Oil sealer in it. The leak has slowed from about 1 quart per 5 days to between 1/2 quart and 3/4 quart per 5 days. It is a 45 mile per day commute, so I am estimating a quart per 300 to 500 miles, depending how much I am stuck in traffic.

[ddemier7]

I have no problem pulling the transmission and replacing the rear main but I was hoping that someone else had a similar problem and knows the procedure on components to remove along with torque specs. I hate to remove the transmission if it wasn't the rear main but I think it is the rear main seal.

[hoosierrun]

When you have the tranny out, just clean the lower block seam real well and seal it up with J&B weld.... that is unless some time in the future you plan on disassembling the block. I would also put a repair sleeve on the rear of the crank to be safe.

I've done this several times on Chrysler FWD vans and cars, but never a GM, or specifically a Saturn.

From what I can tell from reading, you have to support the engine from above, remove the axles, and the entire sub frame (includes steering linkage). Then it is a matter of supporting the tranny on a jack, removing the starter and converter bolts. Then you remove the linkage (if any), electrical connectors, any cooling lines, the bell housing bolts, and separate the tranny from the engine. Lower it on a jack. Keep in mind that the GM tranny pans are very flimsy, so don't plan on using the pan for support. That is an abbreviated description... you need to refer to a manual for more exact details.

Let us know how you make out on this one.

[ddemier7]

Hoosierrum- ya I just saw your write up on you're oil leakage. Thats a very similar problem that I am having. Nice write up!

Any idea where I can find torque specs on my Ion?

When you mention after I remove the automatic transmission you mean take JB weld to the back side of the block seam or apply JB weld all the way around the block seam? Why do this if it is no leaking? Is this leakage a known defect on the 2.2 ecotec's?

What do you mean a repair sleeve on the back of the crank? Can you elaborate on this?

[hoosierrun]

I would seal the seam in the back of the engine from the main seal to part way around where it looks like it is leaking oil on both sides of the seal. See picture.



A repair sleeve is a thin ring of metal (sleeve) that goes over the end of the crank. It provides a new surface for the new seal edges to ride on. With over 100,000 miles on the engine, it is not unusual for a small groove to wear in the crankshaft where the seal rides. Without a good surface for the seal edges to contact, it is possible for even a new seal to leak. I found this out the hard way, so I always make it a practice to install a repair sleeve. They can be a little tricky to install without damaging the thin sleeve, so a lot care must be used to tap the sleeve on squarely. For other cars I have done this on, I have made a flat plate tool with holes drilled to match the back of the crank. Then I thread in the bolts a turn at a time to press the sleeve on.

[ddemier7]

Replaced rear main and still leaking oil but definitely not near as bad as what it was.