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Old 09-27-2017, 04:32 PM   #1
Jmruizwc
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2005 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Fuel Injectors

Hey guys so just a few days ago I got engine code P2119 which states is the "Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body". I was told that a fuel injector that is not working properly could cause that code to be brought up so I wanted to check them first only problem is I cannot find them. How would I get to them? Thanks!

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Old 09-27-2017, 06:19 PM   #2
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Fuel Injectors

Which model and engine? Updating your profile eliminates playing twenty questions. When anyone sees what you're driving (under your name), all you have to do is add pertinent info - mileage, maintenance done, parts replaced, error codes and symptoms.

Injectors are either obvious or hidden. Four cylinder engine injectors are conspicuous (2.2L). 3.0L V6 injectors are hidden under the central intake plenum. Google images of typical 4 cyl and V6 engines showing injectors.

Last edited by fdryer; 09-27-2017 at 06:25 PM..

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Old 09-27-2017, 06:30 PM   #3
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

Wow of course I Don't know how i missed that, its a 2005 saturn l300 with a 3.0 liter v6, 139,000 miles and the only symptom I'm noticing since the light came on a few days ago is about a 2 second start up time when i turn my keys. I took a look under the hood and they do not seem to be obvious.

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Old 09-27-2017, 08:44 PM   #4
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

Here are some pictures from my adventure when replacing a thermostat that wouldn't stay at operating temperatures. The second picture is the fuel rail assembly with injectors (6). I don't remember removing the fuel rail/injectors for t-stat replacement.

I would tread lightly if you suspect injector problems by diagnosing as thoroughly as possible before concluding injector faults. As a rule, fuel distributors/delivery trucks and gas stations filter fuel before its pumped into our gas tanks with one final filter before fuel reaches the fuel rails and injectors to preclude any contamination resulting in clogging. If this practice isn't done, there would be a world of cars with millions of injector failures.
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Old 09-28-2017, 01:26 AM   #5
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

I like to repair my car myself whenever possible and through all my repairs I feel like nothing is easy with this car Lol... but thanks this helped a lot. Would you say my car is okay to drive or should I avoid using it until the problem is fixed? Also, if the injectors are not the problem, to my understanding of this print out from auto zone it would be the throttle body itself that needs to be replaced because of the throttle valve being stuck open? I'm going to attach the paper itself if it'll be any help.
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Old 09-28-2017, 03:19 AM   #6
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

The first question to ask is does the car drive normally or not? The error code P2119 suggests throttle problems that may restrict engine power with the reduced power indicator. Limp home mode. Reduced power is a default to prevent drive by wire systems from any chances of a runaway engine since there is no direct control of the engine. The electronic pedal sends signals to the ecm and the ecm commands throttle position from pedal signals.

I'm troubled with the report stating an ASE tech recommends replacing the throttle assembly. The first line of the report states throttle is stuck open. If that is true then you have a runaway engine with no control, idle may be higher than normal or throttle doesn't respond to pedal. I'm not ASE qualified and I have to use what I know of EFI systems for diagnosing and troubleshooting. Basically, when ignition is turned on, engine not running, you should be able to move pedal with throttle mimicking pedal movement. Have someone exercise the pedal as you observe throttle plate movement. The air intake tube with maf sensor must be removed and left electrically connected for you to have a clear view of throttle plate movement. Move pedal some, throttle opens some. Move pedal halfway, throttle should open halfway. Pedal to floor, throttle should be wide open. Wiring and connections are crucial to drive by wire systems.

Read the brief description of the error code. Maybe throttle has built up crud and simply needs cleaning with a rag soaked in solvent.
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File Type: png DTC 2119-1.png (96.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg DTC 2119-2.jpg (144.4 KB, 2 views)

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Old 09-28-2017, 05:14 AM   #7
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

The car actually sounds to be running fine besides taking a few seconds to start up which is the odd part. Since the engine light came on i have driven it twice as i really needed to. I just finished cleaning the throttle plate so im going to put it back together and see if that solved the problem. I did the excersise you told me to do and the throttle plate was in correlation with the pedal movements. So the fact the throttle valve is not stuck open what would be causing the error code? Started my car again still have longer than usual start time and engine light.

Last edited by Jmruizwc; 09-28-2017 at 05:28 AM..

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Old 09-28-2017, 05:32 AM   #8
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

Also, I am idling at around 1200 rpm if that helps, but now that i listen to it, the engine does have very small drops in rpm that are noticeable. But it is cold out so that also may be the reason, not comfortable with leaving my car on because I dont want more problems to occur.

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Old 09-28-2017, 12:00 PM   #9
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

Is 1200 rpm cold engine or after warm-up? 1200 rpm would be normal for a cold engine, 650 rpm for a warm engine. Fuel filter replaced at 100k miles? Fuel pressure? AutoZone has a free tool loan program, charged to your credit card and removed when tools are returned in the same condition they were loaned out. Expect 39-49 psi. Spark plugs replaced at 100k miles?

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Old 09-28-2017, 05:47 PM   #10
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

It was after a cold start and i didnt let it warm but it looked like the rpm's were going to drop. I got the car at around 100k miles with no information on repairs so fuel filter and spark plugs could be crud.. I will next change the fuel filter which should be towards the front passenger side correct?

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Old 09-28-2017, 07:11 PM   #11
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

Unless you have maintenance records from the previous owner, the chances of plugs, fuel filter, timing belt and water pump never being replaced are very high as they're labor intensive maintenance procedures. The fuel filter is the only one accessible in the open - if I'm not mistaken it's by the the right rear passenger wheel well, under the chassis.

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Old 09-28-2017, 10:19 PM   #12
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

I bought my car at a dealership and was given no records of maintenance at all besides what ive done to it, so im going to assume a few things could be swapped out. I just changed the fuel filter which will probably be the easiest thing ill do on this adventure. Im going to let the garage air out and see if that was the fix, if not, what would you say my next course of action be?

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Old 09-28-2017, 10:58 PM   #13
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Question Re: Fuel Injectors

So light still on, not sure what to do next. Engine rpm's at just above 600 with a warm engine.

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Old 09-29-2017, 12:12 AM   #14
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Default Re: Fuel Injectors

I cannot direct you one way or the other (keep car off the road until replacing throttle actuator or continue driving until something goes wrong). Not enough information is given to make any concrete decisions. On one hand, if the car is drivable, the error code seems to point to closed throttle position when the ecm expects it and throttle doesn't close - a worn throttle assembly. This can be described as a voltage variance (corroded/loose wiring/connections), mechanical wear or obstruction preventing throttle from closing (cleaning built up crud). I can only imagine the what ifs since I'm not putting hands on the car to see, hear, feel or use tools to determine which way to go. Its easy to be an armchair quarterback and diagnose someone else's problem since it isn't mine and doesn't affect me. My restraint in suggesting parts replacement comes from not wanting to do the same if this is my car. If this were my problem, I would spend as much time gathering info from tests using available tools I can use to determine which way to go. I can use advanced troubleshooting methods to look at the electronics from wiring diagrams and make trial and error experiments if I can to see expected results. I do not know if you have another car to use and can keep this one parked while figuring out what to do. One of the easiest tests was mentioned previously without testing equipment. Its your choice to try suggestions or not. If not and its difficult to perform them, I would suggest visiting GM for expected service to find the problem. The alternative is going to a shop specializing in EFI systems, diagnosing, troubleshooting and repairs. These shops would have more experienced people with a wide ranging skills to deal with all manufacturers with quirks each have. Technical expertise would be the technicians technician.

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