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Old 09-11-2017, 07:17 PM   #21
Moon
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Drain

I pressed the power lock on my passenger door to close all lock and the button sort of caved-in which then caused all the power lock motors on all doors to whir and click constantly. Can I just disconnect the switch on the door switch that started this to get everything back to normal without having to replace/fix anything since I am low on money?

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Old 09-11-2017, 07:42 PM   #22
hudypete1
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Drain

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moon View Post
I pressed the power lock on my passenger door to close all lock and the button sort of caved-in which then caused all the power lock motors on all doors to whir and click constantly. Can I just disconnect the switch on the door switch that started this to get everything back to normal without having to replace/fix anything since I am low on money?
You should be able to just disconnect that one switch and all the rest should work properly.

I don't recall enough of the schematic, but it seems to me that the RKE and other door lock button (passenger side?) should still work. I think that these switches are wired in parallel and complete a ground, any one of them completes a ground and that signal is used to power the solenoids to lock the door.

I changed a non-power window/lock SL2 to all powered and had issues with one of the locking solenoids. So I just did not connect that one switch until I had gotten a replacement.

For replacements, if you go to a U-Pull salvage yard they should be under $10 for a switch. Take some testing equipment with you (either will work):
  • multimeter (and do continuity check across the switch while pressing the button)
  • 9V battery, wire, and light bulb (like from a side marker running bulb). Wire up a simple circuit and just plug the switch into it to see if the connections are good.

If you are lost at what I just described above, I can try to pull up schematics and give you pointers.

As I recall, 95-99 all use the same switch and I saw a ton of SLs in every yard I went to over the past 2 weeks (7 yards in 10 days! It was a hoot!). But don't quote me on the compatibility.... check it out yourself using the swap guide which is a sticky somewhere.

...
Peter in Lansing MI

current cars:
94 SW2 (White, automatic)
99 SL2 (Silver Plum, manual)
99 SL2 (Dark Blue, manual)
04 Ion 3 (Berry Red, 2.0L automatic)
07 Ion 3 (Cypress Green, 2.4L, manual)

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Old 09-11-2017, 09:01 PM   #23
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Drain

ok... thanks

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Old 09-12-2017, 10:33 AM   #24
trottida
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Drain

New switches are only $20.77 on Amazon with free shipping (link below). If you're going to grab a used one from an auto wrecker; take the one from the passenger door as it would have been used less. They are both the same but you have to move the switch into the existing housing from the driver door then install in the door handle bezel. The Amazon switch I linked shows the switch and housing for the drivers side door. The switch is held into the housing with 4 clips.

Dorman 901-135 Power Door Lock Switch

...
Current rides
2001 SL1 MT (403,500 km @ 04/2017)
1999 SL2 MT (240,500 km @ 04/2017)
2005 Suburban Z71 (290,500 km @ 04/2017)

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Old 09-12-2017, 11:56 AM   #25
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Drain

Quote:
Originally Posted by hudypete1 View Post
As I recall, 95-99 all use the same switch and I saw a ton of SLs in every yard I went to over the past 2 weeks (7 yards in 10 days! It was a hoot!).
Hey, neighbor - any good ones? The only U-pull type place I know of is in Mason; other places you have to call and ask them to pull

Otherwise, there are places like LKQ in Grand Rapids, or places in and around metro Detroit (there's one off i96 near Brighton, I think, or a bit east of it, that I keep forgetting to check into)

...
I'm not worthy to grovel in the shadow of Signmaster's wisdom

11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 124k DD
7/2010 Craigslist white 1997 SC2 project
12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles

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Old 10-09-2017, 04:57 PM   #26
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Locks

Hi. I want to take out my busted power lock buttons on passenger door and replace with a unit purchased on ebay... do I have to remove my door panel to do this? Any other advice is helpful and very appreciated. Thanks.

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Old 10-10-2017, 11:07 AM   #27
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Locks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moon View Post
Hi. I want to take out my busted power lock buttons on passenger door and replace with a unit purchased on ebay... do I have to remove my door panel to do this? Any other advice is helpful and very appreciated. Thanks.
No need to remove the panel. The lock bezel is just held in with a tab that you can press in to release and pull out the bezel and switch. Look at the new one to find out if the tab is at the top or bottom so you know where to pry. I'm sure there are YouTube videos.

...
Current rides
2001 SL1 MT (403,500 km @ 04/2017)
1999 SL2 MT (240,500 km @ 04/2017)
2005 Suburban Z71 (290,500 km @ 04/2017)

:canada:

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Old 10-10-2017, 11:38 AM   #28
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Drain

step 2 in diagram here
http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...doorpanel.html

IIRC, one Phillips screw, and the tab is towards the rear so slide the assembly forward

...
I'm not worthy to grovel in the shadow of Signmaster's wisdom

11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 124k DD
7/2010 Craigslist white 1997 SC2 project
12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles

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Old 10-10-2017, 02:32 PM   #29
trottida
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Drain

Quote:
Originally Posted by alordofchaos View Post
step 2 in diagram here
http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...doorpanel.html

IIRC, one Phillips screw, and the tab is towards the rear so slide the assembly forward
I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove the handle which involves removing the screw and disconnecting the rods. The lock bezel is just snapped into the handle assembly. You just insert a pry tool into the top push the catch down and pop the bezel out towards you. The wiring is long enough to pull the lock switch assembly out, disconnect the wires and put the new one in. Examine the new part to find out where the catch is. I'm thinking the top but check to be sure. It's either top or bottom.

...
Current rides
2001 SL1 MT (403,500 km @ 04/2017)
1999 SL2 MT (240,500 km @ 04/2017)
2005 Suburban Z71 (290,500 km @ 04/2017)

:canada:

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Old 10-10-2017, 02:42 PM   #30
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Default Re: 1997 SL MYSTERIES; Power Drain

Quote:
Originally Posted by trottida View Post
I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove the handle which involves removing the screw and disconnecting the rods. The lock bezel is just snapped into the handle assembly. You just insert a pry tool into the top push the catch down and pop the bezel out towards you. The wiring is long enough to pull the lock switch assembly out, disconnect the wires and put the new one in. Examine the new part to find out where the catch is. I'm thinking the top but check to be sure. It's either top or bottom.
D'Oh! I'm pretty sure you are right. I might be thinking of a different car (or just confused). Thanks!

If I remember, I'll take a look when I get home tonight. I think I replaced the switch on one of my cars and still have it sitting with a pile of parts.

...
I'm not worthy to grovel in the shadow of Signmaster's wisdom

11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 124k DD
7/2010 Craigslist white 1997 SC2 project
12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles

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