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Old 11-13-2014, 10:27 PM   #1
ericamary
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1999 SL2
Dizzy SL2 Check Engine Light Issue

Hi,

I am glad I found you all. I have a 1999 SL2. I inherited from my grandma in 2011, it had 15k miles on it. Now it just hit 50k.

It has a new battery as of last month, and on Monday night I disconnected the two "Yellow 20" fuses because the automatic lock activator was running back and forth nonstop for awhile, draining the battery. (The new battery was put in; it was drained in a month...the issue had been going on for a few months...I am NOT very car smart, wish I was). It was jumped Tuesday afternoon, I drove it around, then it worked Wed. Thursday (today) the "Check Engine Light" came on.

I had the diagnostic run at Autozone. It said "P0341". This is for the camshaft sensor, apparently, then the guy said the problem is that that my car doesn't have a camshaft or cam sensor (I tried to take notes). The other guy there coached him over the counter, told him something about saturns, then he said it meant the Ignition Control Module...OR the connectors, and I would only know which one it was (if not both) with a test light.

One is $115, but useless to fix if it's the connector, and the other is a trip to the local junkyard I guess (do I have to check to see if they have a saturn sl2, 1999? don't laugh!)

Then I got in the car to leave auto zone and the dang light was not on. Will see about tomorrow but overall, sounds like maybe I should look into this or not? It kind of has had a tug to it for awhile (the car), but it could just be the age; not sure how zippy it would be all in all.

Any advice? I do have a friend who should have a test light, and might be able to help...it's just like pulling teeth. However, I am out of work, money is scarce, and I don't know cars.

Is this a common issue? I read some other posts about that code, the part, the check engine light sign... I know nobody is psychic, but there were some very educated posts and yet my issue seemed separate. Does anybody have these wires if my junkyard doesn't? Or the connector?

THANKS SO MUCH. SO GLAD I FOUND THIS!

...
Inherited my grandma's 1999 SL2 in 2011 with 15k miles; only has 50k miles on it now.

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Old 11-13-2014, 11:34 PM   #2
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Default Re: SL2 Check Engine Light Issue

P0341 means your spark plugs and/or wires need to be replaced. Once you do that, keep #1 & #4 next to each other until #4 goes into the spark plug.

As for the power lock's cycling, poke the lock/unlock button on each door until it stops the stupidity...once you find which one is causing the problem you know which switch to replace. They have an evil habit of failing just bad enough that if the lock/unlock buttons aren't 100% in the middle it activates the lock actuator.

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Old 11-21-2014, 09:53 PM   #3
ericamary
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Default Re: SL2 Check Engine Light Issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by fetchitfido View Post
P0341 means your spark plugs and/or wires need to be replaced. Once you do that, keep #1 & #4 next to each other until #4 goes into the spark plug.

As for the power lock's cycling, poke the lock/unlock button on each door until it stops the stupidity...once you find which one is causing the problem you know which switch to replace. They have an evil habit of failing just bad enough that if the lock/unlock buttons aren't 100% in the middle it activates the lock actuator.
Wow. Just getting this, it's been crazy and I didn't see an email notice. I truly appreciate your response.

Questions---

Not sure what you mean by keep 1 and 4 next to each other until 4 goes in. Why is this?

If my one friend cannot help me, I am screwed. How much can I expect to pay for this to be done?

I don't know if it's in my means to try to replace a switch on a lock right now if I don't have to. I haven't even tried, but can't I just lock the car with my key if need be?

How are you so knowledgeable about the codes? I was just looking up ignition control module videos, trying to figure out more about it. Another housemate said that most connectors/wires just need to be taken out and cleaned and replaced. I do live in a crazy house, though, and don't trust his expertise on everything. In this case, sounds like I am right.

I am sorry to be troubling you with this. I am unemployed, just found out I have to move in a little over 2 months, and need to try to save as much as possible. This is scaring me.... And the light goes off and on routinely. Just spent a few days with it off, then it came on for a ride today. I know there is a problem though or it wouldn't come on at all.

Thank you for your kindness.

Erica

...
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:53 PM   #4
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Default Re: SL2 Check Engine Light Issue

I checked the spark plugs, or a friend who knows cars did. They look really good, and the connector for the ignition control module looks great (so it could be the part, if it's THAT; we don't want to run the test light for fear of doing damage to the wrong wires, etc).

If the spark plugs look good, no corrosion, etc, could it still be them? Nothing even looked like it needed cleaning, though he said that these had a "gap" that you need something else to look at closer. Could it still be them?

...
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Old 11-24-2014, 02:06 PM   #5
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1997 SL2
Default Re: SL2 Check Engine Light Issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericamary View Post
Not sure what you mean by keep 1 and 4 next to each other until 4 goes in. Why is this?
You are not looking at the wire's conditions. Rather, the wires have to be laid out in a specific order.

The ignition sensing electric current rising and falling through these wires simulates what the camshaft sensor would do, in a car with that sensor... and it only is correct when these pairs of wires are next to each other

As you stand in front of the car, facing it with the hood up, the spark plug wire at the left is #1 (passenger side of the car) and the wire at the right is #4 (driver side). The two wires in the middle are 2 & 3

trace spark plug #1. What you want to do is, when you hit the grooves at the right side of the black cover, make sure that the wire for #4 runs right next to #1 for the entire length. then make sure 2 & 3 also run next to each other.

Don't disconnect any of the wires at either end, just move them around so they are next to each other for as much of the length as possible

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