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Old 09-12-2013, 07:26 AM   #21
junker
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1995 SW2
Default Re: Rebuilding 254k DOHC Engine - Planning questions

This isn't a DIY but it does give you an idea of the process. Of course the biggest hurdle is probably getting the car high enough safely. If I were to do it without access to a lift I would probably use a chainfall to hoist the front of the car up. Then again, if you are only interested in the engine through the top might be easier. I wanted to do a total refurb including the subframe and other components so it made sense.

Saturn s-series engine install through bottom of my 95 SW2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wE3KiYEaq8

Here is the removal through the bottom of the donor 96 SL2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSFYXExH-0A (skip to 1:15)

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My Saturn Videos: http://www.youtube.com/dosumpthin

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Old 09-23-2013, 09:38 PM   #22
hotrod205
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Default Re: Rebuilding 254k DOHC Engine - Planning questions

Update: I'm going through the top since I would need a hoist to get the body high enough anyway, and it seemed easier to not mess with the steering stuff and most everything else would be unhooked either way.

I would guess I'm about 2 hours from getting the engine out now, although it will be this weekend before I have time. I have everything on the front side off and ready, the a/c comp and p/s pump are loose, fuel rail is off, upper engine mount is off.

I just realized that I never broke the crank pulley bolt loose. So the question is this... would it be easier to set the battery back in and use the starter pop trick to break it loose, or just carry on and break it with my breaker bar when the engine is out?

The starter is still in and connected to the wires, would just have to hook up the battery. Maybe I just talked myself into it...

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Old 09-23-2013, 10:21 PM   #23
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Default Re: Rebuilding 254k DOHC Engine - Planning questions

Do you have access to an impact wrench? I bought a cheapo AutoZone electric for when I'm not in the shop on base, and even that broke the crank bolt free.

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Old 09-24-2013, 09:06 AM   #24
hotrod205
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Default Re: Rebuilding 254k DOHC Engine - Planning questions

Well I had a cheapo one, but it wouldn't even break loose my lug nuts so I kept turning up the pressure and blew it out. I got it as part of a Harbor Freight type kit (as a gift) so I wasn't surprised. I have a compressor so I need to get one.

Since it will be pretty easy to connect the battery I'm going to give the starter a try just for the heck of it. If it doesn't work then I'll try other measures once it is out of the car.

Speaking of which, is the crank bolt standard thread or reverse on these? I've done timing belts on a Honda and a Mazda and they were different directions, can't remember which way is normal...

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Old 09-24-2013, 01:59 PM   #25
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Default Re: Rebuilding 254k DOHC Engine - Planning questions

The old addage...left loosy -righty tighty!! I am in the middle of replacing my timing chain and giudes and used the starter method to pop the bolt loose. It took a couple of cranks to pop loose. Didn't have the the correct leverage with a breaker bar while working underneath so I decided on the starter method...little frustrated and tired at the time.. Was happy it worked.

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Old 09-24-2013, 02:17 PM   #26
hotrod205
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Default Re: Rebuilding 254k DOHC Engine - Planning questions

Yeah, the starter only turns in one direction... guess I didn't think that through. I certainly know the normal direction, was meaning which way it tightened on the Saturn. But using the starter there can be only one.

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Old 09-26-2013, 11:41 AM   #27
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Default Re: Rebuilding 254k DOHC Engine - Planning questions

I got the bolt loose. Tried the starter 3 times and all three times it shot my breaker bar out from under the car. Obviously I didn't have it braced well enough, so I decided to try the jack method since that actually worked when I did a timing belt on a Honda a few years ago. That got it with no fuss.

Exhaust manifold is off now also, entire front side of engine is clean and ready to come out. I have had the AIR flow code forever because the passages were clogged, but I procrastinated pulling the manifold to clean it out. It was so easy I wish I would have done it long ago. I haven't seen anyone post pictured of a clogged one, but I took some and am going to post them in a separate thread.

I still have a number of things to unhook on the back side and then the lower mounts. I already pulled the fuel rail and I'm about to pull the intake since it is the plastic one. I would hate to crack it if the engine moves too much lifting it out. I've already had it out once when the heater inlet cracked so I know the drill, and it is simple now that I have everything else off already. I highly recommend the metal heater inlet replacement part BTW, worked like a champ.

I should have the engine out this weekend, and will probably start a new thread with actual rebuild questions as I go forward.

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