Used, but still new, Timing Chain

[ih8trfc]

I am rebuilding the engine from my 98 SL2. I had originally done it because of a spun #1 rod bearing. When it was done it was AWESOME! Not a drop of oil burnt or leaked between oil changes. Unfortunately, due to poor machine work, the #1 rod bearing spun, AGAIN, after ony 11,000 miles!
So.............. here I go again. My problem is that, after I put the timing chain in the part washer, I do not see any dark or, as the chiltons manual says, "silver" links. I was hoping to reuse the chain, since it only had 11,000 miles on it. Does anyone know how many links are between each timing mark links?
Thanks

[Razzle Dazzle]

...
Just pass this!

[OldNuc]

You can count them here. The chain is symmetrical so when you mark the top par the other 2 will be centered at the bottom. https://picasaweb.google.com/1159762...09827087374914

If that fails to make sense I should be able to get you a picture or 2 if I happen to have a dead chain here somewhere.

[BrandonK]

I don't have anything to add to the timing chain, but regarding the spun bearing; did you torque the caps with a known good torque wrench? Did you plastic gauge the bearings before finally assembly?

[ih8trfc]

OldNuc, thanks, but the flash washed out some of the links. If you have any other pics that would be awesome.
Thanks again.
Brandon, I did not plastic gauge it before reassembly and my Torque wrench is old, but I did not have any issues with ANY of the other bolts I torqued down with the same wrench.
The first time it spun was my fault (a misshift, from 5th to 2nd instead of 4th, at at 70+ mph with 179,000 miles on the engine) the second time was not under the same conditions I just noticed the noise after I got home from work one day. So I found it extremely suspicious that exact same bearing spun with no other issues.

[ih8trfc]

OldNuc
I changed the pic to fullscreen and I think there are 7 links between the top two. Can you verify that?
Thanks again!

[OldNuc]

Counting the 2 black plates there are 9 total and 7 plain plates i between. Once you pick the first 9 then the remainder will make 2 equal length strands and the 2 plates at the end are the double pair.

[ih8trfc]

Many thanks OldNuc! That is exactly what I was looking for.
For anyone else that needs, or wants, to know. There are 7 links between the top two timing links and 26 between each top timing link and the bottom two timing links.
Thanks again!

[ih8trfc]

OK, now on to the next questions.
What is the best/most recommended RTV silicone, and would you use it on the timing chain and oil pan?
I have a mechanic friend that recommended a Mopar RTV that I used last time, but for some reason I used a red silicone on the oil pan. I found the tube of Mopar silicone, but it was hard as a rock and cannot find the red RTV that I used.
Since the oil pump only has 11,000 miles on it I plan on using it again. I did, however want to clean it out and pack it. What can I use on the bolt threads?
Let me know, thanks!

[OldNuc]

Ultra black or Ultra gray will be fine on both. The secret is you have to be fast and the surfaces must be absolutely oil film free. Wipe down with acetone as modern brake cleaner leaves a film and the bond will fail. The other product that I would suggest is "The Right Stuff" in the cheeze whizz can. Works better and has a longer working time. http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm on sale at tyour FLAPS.

[ih8trfc]

Thanks again OldNuc.
I'm assuming that the blue Loctite will be good enough for the oil pump cover bolts?
Has anyone had to replace the timing chain cover due to the oil pump wearing out the cover?
Brother-in-law said that he rebuilt and Oldsmobile engine and sold it and 6 months later the oil pump went out?

[caveeagle]

could the a/c not working, and the fan not coming on when I hit the a/c button, cause the overheating with the coolant system?

Not sure what year olds you are talking about, but most older domestic motors have a shaft drive oil pump. Early smallblock fords had nylon timing gears that could end up in the oil pan eventually and an oil pump shaft that was pencil thin. I had one of those snap in half and another twist up like a pretzel.

In my limited experience, oil pumps don't just 'fail'. they either slowly wear out, or some foreign object gets in there in makes it crash.

[OldNuc]

Originally Posted by ih8trfc

Thanks again OldNuc.
I'm assuming that the blue Loctite will be good enough for the oil pump cover bolts?
Has anyone had to replace the timing chain cover due to the oil pump wearing out the cover?
Brother-in-law said that he rebuilt and Oldsmobile engine and sold it and 6 months later the oil pump went out?

Yes, if there are circular score marks on the cover or in the pump recess then you probably need a replacement.

Red locktite and locktite primer on those cover screws.

[alordofchaos]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

Ultra black or Ultra gray will be fine on both. The secret is you have to be fast and the surfaces must be absolutely oil film free.

Are you no longer recommending the Hylomar Ultra Blue Racing?

That stuff is the bomb, IMO
a little hard to find, though. Only place I know of that has it for sure is the Oreilly's in Kalamazoo, off Romence

[OldNuc]

They changed the name to Hylomar M or Hylomar Universal Blue and it is still hard to find. The Permatex Hylomar Super Blue Racing is still available but likewise hard to find. They do work well but as it is entirely different technique than RTV retraining is required or you have a failure.

This is the Permatex product, and lowest price.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...ar%2Caps%2C348

Being a British product the import process is probably a pain.

[ih8trfc]

ok, I have score marks in my oil pump cover, not full circles, but I don't know if I want to take the chance, so I am considering buying a new timing cover and oil pump. Why can't I find a timing cover ANYWHERE!?! Does anyone know what a part # is for that cover and does it come with the oil pump cover?