How-to: Wiring a 12v adaptor into your trunk.

[adventureoflink]

**NOTE**: While this is a how-to, I’m putting this in S-series Mods then flagging it so Charlie can move it to the how-to library.

Frequently Asked Question: What’s the point of doing this?
I mainly did this just in case I have to recharge my phone while I’m out and I didn’t bring the charger. You can also thank those Junk-in-the-Trunk campaigns they run in Cincinnati Ohigho as this gave me the inspiration for this project.

What you’ll need:

* Phillips-head screwdriver
* 7mm socket for a 1/4” drive ratchet
* 5/16” socket
* Flat-head screwdriver
* Cigarette lighter socket
* Fuse holder with the appropriate sized fuse inside it
* #12 wire for the power and ground wires (bare minimum power wire length would be 12-14’)
* Butt connectors & crimp tool, solder & heat shrink wrap, etc (bring plenty, you’ll need them)
* Female crimp-on quick connectors
* Crimp-on ring terminals
* Electrical Tape (if your quick connectors don't have the plastic guards around the contact)

What you do:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Open the Dashboard.

1st generation (1991-1994): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nf65ON1CpEk (watch till the 1 minute mark)
2nd generation (1995-1999): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jXiwgm3bPg (watch till the 1 minute 11 second mark; keep in mind this video is a bit quiet so crank the volume up)
3rd generation (2000-2002): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5araI3Lu6OE (watch till the 2 minute mark)

All these videos show instrument cluster removal, but since you have to get inside the dashboard anyway for this project…

3. Run a wire within the main wire loom from the UHJB positive going under and behind the dashboard as seen in these pics:

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/4...1207152209.jpg
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8...1207152239.jpg

(Just so ya know, the blue wire is for my relay project, feel free to ignore it for this project. Also, I carefully yanked the existing wire loom back and poked the grommet with a Phillips head screwdriver. To get the wire within the dashboard, you’ll have to drop a shoestring down from around the PCM to the floor, and tie the shoestring to the wire)

4. Now you have to cleverly disguise your wires. Personally, I ran it through the top of the door trim, keeping the wire above the clips. It’s up to you, but this was the easiest way for me. Keep in mind that other R&R projects that need this door trim removed (seat belts, headliner, sunroof, etc) will be a little more difficult due to re-routing the wire. To remove the upper door trim, just remove it with your hands, being careful not to break anything. You will need the 7mm socket to remove the handle above the rear door and the Phillips head screwdriver to remove the left sun visor.

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/6...1207160810.jpg

5. Run the power wire into the trunk. You should be able to run it easily in the hole the door trim covers up on the package tray. Just be careful when running it, to not accidentally tug on the wire for the rear defroster (if you have it as an option).

6. Now you terminate the power wire to a power source. How you do this is up to you:

* If you’re also doing my relay project, feel free to use pin 87a (normally closed contact) to control the trunk 12v adaptor, as I personally use it for recharging my phone while I’m out and I don’t have the cord with me. However, you’ll have to pull the wire all the way into the car and route it underneath the radio to the relay.
* If you need power all the time, terminate the wire at the UHJB positive bolt using a crimp-on ring terminal.

7. Install the inline fuse holder, of course you solder/heat shrink or crimp your terminations.

8. Use a female quick connector to terminate the power wire to the positive of the cigarette lighter. You should wrap the contact with a little electric tape to prevent accidental short to ground incidents or use a quick connector with a plastic guard around the contact.

9. Use another female quick connector to terminate the ground wire to the negative on the cigarette lighter.

10. To make your install neat, feel free to use an existing ground termination under the package tray, and use a crimp-on ring connector to terminate the ground here. Here’s a YouTube video on how to open it on a second or third generation SL-series (1996-2002): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4mchytppo8 (watch the video till 2m 40s; although the video is for rear speaker R&R, since you have to remove the package tray anyway…)

11. Re-connect your battery and test your plug. If it works, find a clever way to neatly hang it and YOU ARE DONE. Otherwise you’ll have to check your wiring/fuses/terminations and try again.

11.5. As a tip, you’ll find several holes on the panel that the package tray covers. What I did, was bolt the outlet to a hole in the center of the package tray. Be careful not to get it in the hole for the pushpin as you’ll need those holes to re-install the package tray.

Here’s a picture of the finished project (before bolting it down):

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/2...1207210304.jpg

Comments, Questions, Praise, etc are always welcome

[mattelderca]

For anyone doing this,
PLEASE ensure that there is a fuse holder and appropriate fuse as CLOSE to your power connection as possible! Less that 6 inches is recommended, really.
The UHJB positive terminal is the ideal spot or you can buy a replacement bolt for the battery terminal that has provision for the power tap.
But ensure there is a fuse within 6 inches of the connection. I would hate to tell you how many fires and near fires I have seen. One was inside a garage and destroyed the attached house.

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by mattelderca

For anyone doing this,
PLEASE ensure that there is a fuse holder and appropriate fuse as CLOSE to your power connection as possible! Less that 6 inches is recommended, really.
The UHJB positive terminal is the ideal spot or you can buy a replacement bolt for the battery terminal that has provision for the power tap.
But ensure there is a fuse within 6 inches of the connection. I would hate to tell you how many fires and near fires I have seen. One was inside a garage and destroyed the attached house.

+1 ^^^^ didn't keep that in consideration, in case you accidentally fillet the wire and it shorts to ground (but I'll definately do it for my relay project...)

Now if only I could go back and fix that.

[OldNuc]

Yes, now that we have opened this can of worms there must be a fuse within inches of the point of power connection. All Electronics is the cheap source for in-line holders and 10, 20, 30, 40 amp fuses. http://www.allelectronics.com/ Keep in mind your aux power system is only going to be capable of supplying about 15 amps continuous without loading the alternator down and belt/tensioner wear will increase.

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

Yes, now that we have opened this can of worms

Is this a good thing or a bad thing?

[djdevon3]

Why would you want a 12v in the trunk? Just asking.

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by djdevon3

Why would you want a 12v in the trunk? Just asking.

Originally Posted by adventureoflink

Frequently Asked Question: What’s the point of doing this?
I mainly did this just in case I have to recharge my phone while I’m out and I didn’t bring the charger. You can also thank those Junk-in-the-Trunk campaigns they run in Cincinnati Owe-higho as this gave me the inspiration for this project.

You can also apply this to iPods, iPads, etc.. not just limited to phones.

it's also rarely mentioned, but this one time I was driving a 2008 PT Cruiser on rental, it also had a power adaptor in the cargo area, stock

[adventureoflink]

As a heads-up, a version 2.0 of this will come in a few months, which will address the following:

* _finally_ showing my inline fuse holder that I've had installed
* kicking some common F-5 malarkies in the ass (constant power to an aftermarket radio, the stock power adaptor, etc)
* showing my power adaptor all neatly hung
* whatever else I feel like adding in here

[1.9 sohc]

Since an aftermarket radio has a constant power wire, as well as a wire that is tripped on when the ignition key is turned. The cig lighter as well has a constant power wire, and is only activated when something is plugged into it.....

If I want to install an aftermarket CD deck and remove the cig lighter and cd deck from putting a load the fuse panel (F5)... couldn't I run a power wire from the batterys positive terminal (with an inline fuse) to the radio area, solder the radios constant power input wire to that wire, as well as the cig lighters constant power input wire?

What guage wire? What size fuse?
Sound good?

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by 1.9 sohc

Since an aftermarket radio has a constant power wire, as well as a wire that is tripped on when the ignition key is turned. The cig lighter as well has a constant power wire, and is only activated when something is plugged into it.....

If I want to install an aftermarket CD deck and remove the cig lighter and cd deck from putting a load the fuse panel (F5)... couldn't I run a power wire from the batterys positive terminal (with an inline fuse) to the radio area, solder the radios constant power input wire to that wire, as well as the cig lighters constant power input wire?

What guage wire? What size fuse?
Sound good?

Actually, TrotFox did something similar...

I would first determine the current draw on your aftermarket radio's constant power (IIRC he said his was no more than 500mA) and go from there. I would guess a 10 gauge wire would be sufficient. Keep in mind the stock current for the cig lighter is 20 amps, the fuse is sized as such for a reason...

my version 2.0 was gonna have one of those fuse boxes (like the relay project) feed the radio constant power and cig lighter (and maybe the lighting?) power.

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by adventureoflink

I would first determine the current draw on your aftermarket radio's constant power (IIRC he said his was no more than 500mA) and go from there. I would guess a 10 gauge wire would be sufficient. Keep in mind the stock current for the cig lighter is 20 amps, the fuse is sized as such for a reason...

Actually guys you can get away with a 16 gauge wire for both the radio and the power adaptor.. its just a short run from the UHJB+ to the radio housing. #10 would be if you're gonna make a main power lead...

and as an update I would recommend you really stress test your radio.. on that note I was playing "Magic Man" by Heart and there's a part of the song that I like to ghetto blast (like around 3m50s or so), it ghetto blasted all of two seconds on a ONE AMP fuse, it then promptly blew. To think all this time I was sending at least one amp of unnecessary current through the F-5 any time I wanted ghetto blasters..

Originally Posted by adventureoflink

my version 2.0 was gonna have one of those fuse boxes (like the relay project) feed the radio constant power and cig lighter (and maybe the lighting?) power.

And version 2.0 is in the form of a YouTube video:

http://www.youtu.be/xjP2yyrlNQw