Quick cluster question

[Z440mx]

Hey everyone, this is my first post on this site. I'm in the process of swapping gauge clusters in my 99 Saturn sc2. Before everyone says "do a search, their are posts everywhere about this" lol, Ive looked atthem. But they are for the 95s or the 02+ Sc2. My question is what are the LED bulb numbers my 99 sc2 needs for the instrument cluster bulbs? And also anyway to change the odometer mileage? Thank you in advance for the expertise.

[Z440mx]

please anyone? im just a click away from ordering from superbright...

[marmitage]

I did not have any luck with LED I bought from Supebright for my gen 3 clusters. I ended up going to the J/Y and pulling bulbs.
On the gen 2 the the mileage is stored in the cluster and no way to change except replace the odomitor or cluster. Gen 3 is stored in the BCM I believe and stays with the car.

[Z440mx]

ok cool thank you.

[td1238]

If we are talking about replacing the incandescent bulbs, and if they are how I think they are (I have yet to view and/or replace any of the bulbs on my '99 SL2 cluster), I am guessing that the bulbs fit into small plastic retainers that twist and lock into place. Actually I replaced the one in my AC switch, so I'm pretty sure that's what's in the cluster. Anyway, what I do is buy the smallest all-glass bulb sold at auto parts stores, with the wires that are bent up. I actually think that they are often rated at 6 volts, but they actually work at 12. Not sure what's going on there. Anyway, with a very sharp and narrow razor, cut narrow slots in the bulb retaining sleeve on the plastic bulb retainer for the wires. Be sure that they will be oriented properly when the retainer is twisted into place. Bend the wires sideways and insert the bulb. Replace assembly, being sure that wires contact contacts on circuit board.

Another option would be to merely solder in the bulb(s). They don't require replacement very often, so it is merely a matter of being quick and careful with a soldering iron, and then you're done.

If you are swapping to LEDs, all you need to know is the LED's current and voltage requirements. Then calculate a resistance that'll drop the remaining voltage from 14 volts at the LED's current draw to put the LED in the middle of its voltage range. Be sure that whatever resistance is calculated assures that the LED never exceeds its maximum rated value.

I have never modified Saturn gauge lights to LED, but I have added LEDs in other cars, and I have found that they don't dim like the incandescent bulbs. You might try increasing the LED ballast resistor value, or you might have to reconfigure the dimmer's operation, or design a circuit that, for a given dimmer voltage change, gives an appropriate change in voltage to the LEDs. LEDs tend to have a very narrow range of operation, but when put in series with a ballast resistor, this band of operation can actually become very broad, so the end result is either an LED that dims too quickly, or not enough.

[fetchitfido]

Originally Posted by marmitage

On the gen 2 the the mileage is stored in the cluster and no way to change except replace the odomitor or cluster.

'98-'99 you can't change it easily(if at all, no idea). '91-'97 it's rather easy (or at least '95-'97 is, '91-'94 is basically the same procedure). Anyone who's fixed a broken odometer gear is about half a step away from having it show any mileage they want it to.

Bulbs for '99 should be the same as '95 (so '95-'99 same).
LED = Light Emitting Diode
Diode = gizmo that only allows power one direction (unlike incandescent bulb) so you can put 'em in backward.

[SC2C95Saturn]

Just to stick up for superbrightleds.com, i ordered a full 180 dollar conversion kit to turn all the lights in my 95 sc2 over to LED, the instrument lighting dims just like the stock bulbs do, they have built in resistance so they appear to be an incandescent bulb to the car, but glow brighter, use less electricity, and get a cooler range of colors for the user. the only issue i ran across was having to put in a resistor for my turn signals because when first installed, my signals flashed like i had a bulb burned out, but it was because those certain lights did not have a built in resistor, but i'm 100% happy with the lights bought from there, and intend to do more business with them. they are going strong roughly 5 to 6 months after being installed, and my vehicle sits outside uncovered 24/7 and an excessive amount of miles put on it in a lil over a year, i think i'm at 35,000 miles in just over a year so they've been tested.

as for light numbers, unfortunately the easiest 2 choices you have is use superbright's car chooser, and also use your chilton manual, the chilton tells exactly what bulb number each and every light uses, thats how i started converting numbers to current numbers and crossover LED numbers. unfortunately superbright's car chooser doesn't always have the correct LED for the spot, but about 95% of it was correct, and then i edited the bad choices out and cruised their website until i came across the correct number and added that to my cart.

[td1238]

The resistor you install on your turn signal bulb to keep it from flashing really fast is a shunting resistor. It causes the circuit to draw the same amount of current as a conventional bulb, and doesn't save you any power. The only plus is that the LED is less likely to burn out.

There are special LED flashers available.

Personally I just leave the incandescents in the turn signal sockets, but it would be nice to have LEDs in there, if they looked good. I installed LED bulbs in my brake/parking sockets, and they look alright, but kind of glow in a concentrated form in the center. The bulbs don't disburse the light properly. They aim it all forward instead of at the reflector as well as forward.

[marmitage]

Here is the thread I used when I ordered my LED for my gen 3. Like I said I was not able to get them to work. It could have been user error.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...=152386&page=1