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#1 | ||||
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New Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2
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Hi I'm niew.
I failed my etest yesterday because my traction control won't turn off while doing the test. Is there anyway to reset this?
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#2 | |||||
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Most Emission Testing Programs only need to you to pass an OBD-II diagnostic... so not sure why Traction Control is even a factor. Even if you had to run on a Dynamo I wouldn't see why that would matter either. The "Inspector" just needs to drive with a "light foot" so the tires don't skip/jump as much. Now as for "forcing" the Traction Control "OFF"... I'm a regular user of my e-brake (WAIT?! is that what you mean by e-test?) which will force the Trac Control Off if it isn't released. OK so if that is what you mean by "e-test"... does the E-Brake seem to be working properly in all other ways? On my vehicle usually when I "back out" with the e-brake set the vehicle will "dip" (when it's holding well otherwise with some slight "friction") and the Trac-Off warning lights/sounds. Is your e-brake performing like this? If not I might have the e-brake tightened/checked. Had my 2003 ION's e-brake worked on about 2 years ago... because it had rusted/jammed up and wasn't holding properly... but the TC was still functional.
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#3 | |||||
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New Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2
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I'm sorry I should have been more clear.
My saturn is a 2005 saturn ion. It was my emissions test for the state of Colorado. I have a standard so I'm not sure if the inspector just didn't have the right footing. He had made the mistake with the car next to me so I'm guessing that could be it. Either way, he says I failed because of this. ? I can try and take it to another location to see if I come up with the same thing but I hate to pay $25 to be told the same thing. KWIM? Quote:
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#4 | ||||
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Super Member
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Have you tried pushing in the traction control button several times before turning the ignition switch ON?
... *The CPS is the heart of the entire EFI system. No cps = dead EFI system* *There's more to a/c than just a few cans of refrigerant* *There's more to brakes than just replacing parts*
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#5 | ||||
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Senior Member
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OK so by "Standard" you mean Manual Transmission? From what you're saying about the Inspector I guessing that means your "E-Test" involves running the vehicle on a Dynamo (Car Treadmill) instead of just a simple OBD-II Computer Check...
Not familiar how many different testing options/procedures are in your State between different location(s)... but I've done that before too when I've had "bad luck" at a certain station. Course, in my case it was probably the additional "warm up" time not to mention some "Guaranteed to Pass" Fuel System Additive that did the trick and not a different Driver/Station. Although I'll admit the other driver was better skilled at it. If you have the option of just Passing an OBD-II Check for your E-Test... that'd be ideal then the Inspector shouldn't care what your TC is doing... unless there is some kind of Road Safety Check included with your State's E-Test program. Anyway... if your E-Brake and TC works the same as it does on my 2003 ION-3 Automatic Sedan. If the vehicle is left running (by you) for the test... you could try the TC "override" I mentioned earlier. (Using the e-brake to disable the TC without pressing the TC Button if it isn't functioning. But if you're thinking the Inspector screwed up... maybe it's a simple mistake on his/her part. I know on my 2003 the TC Switch isn't very bright and depending on what the Inspector is trying to do... might not notice if it's really OFF or ON.)
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#6 | ||||
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Advanced Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Listowel, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 925
2006 ION-3 Quad Coupe
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Disconnect battery terminal for 30 minutes, reconnect, drive normally for about 20 to 30 minutes including highway, and see if this corrects the problem.
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#7 | |||||
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Just so you know if the battery disconnect happens to "reset" Computer and any Emissions System codes/settings... your ION might not be ready for an emissions test with just 20/30 minutes of combined driving. When you happen to force a reset of the Computer (Usually by using an OBDII Scanner)... the system has to "pass" several internal checks before it's "ready" again for an e-test. If you don't want to waste time/money with a needless e-test (they'll fail it unless the vehicle is "ready") you might see about stopping at a place that can perform an OBDII Scan and confirm if it is time... Personally I'd give it a few days of normal driving till it's ready for an e-test. As for the TC Button I wonder you could pull the fuse(s) for the Anti-Lock Brakes system... (I think TC and ABS use the same electrical circuits on the ION right?) Not sure if that'd throw up any ABS or Brake Lights (and a possible issue for the E-Test?) but if the TC Button is a real issue for your test... that might be another possible "override" option which could be easily restored afterward. Doesn't require you or the Inspector driving with the parking brake engaged.
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