P0303 [Bob's Project Car]

[BobbyBeans]

For my next tear down step on my way to head removal I want to remove the two hoses from the intake manifold. The small one on top goes into the coolant overflow tank. Is that one called the deaeration hose? The other hose is bigger, is on the drivers side and snakes down below the engine (see picture). Is this one a heater hose? The heater hose has a squeeze clam but its facing towards the firewall. How am I suppose to get pliers on that? Both hoses look like they are petrified and will be a bear to get off even if I could get to that clamp. Does anyone have any hints on how to remove that clamp and hose or should I just cur them off and get new ones.

I also added pictures of the throttle body before and after I cleaned it.

I'm still having fun with my project car, haven't broken anything yet and when I get stumped I simply stop, think about it for a while ... and then talk to you all

Thanks
-Bob

[ssicarman]

Large hose is a heater hose. The clamp for it can almost be gotten to from under car to open it a bit and turn it for better access from the top. The other way is to use something to hook onto the clamp tab by your blue arrow and pull on it to open it a bit and pull it around to be able to get pliers on to completely open it and move it down.
Once it is off use a small screw driver/awl/similar to go between the hose and the fitting to release the hose from the fitting.

If you like spending money on special tools there is a cable operated hose clamp tool that works very nicely.

[BobbyBeans]

The tear down continues... To review, I'm tearing down so I can remove the head. I have zero compression in #3 cylinder and suspect a burnt valve. Today I got a decent amount of work done. Here is what I did:

1. Disconnected three intake manifold hoses: 1. coolant overflow tank hose, 2. firewall heater hose, 3. brake booster hose.
2. Put a block of wood under the lower strut mount.
3. Removed upper motor mount.
4. Removed the camshaft cover assembly.
5. Removed the A/C compressor from its brackets and pulled the compressor, with hoses still attached, out of the way.
6. Remove the A/C compressor brackets from the head and block.
7. Remove the thermostat. Probably should be replaced.
8. Remove the coolant drain bolt on the block and flush the system with water from the garden hose.

QUESTION: My next step is to disconnect the power steering pump and pull it off to the side. The procedure in the FSM shows a pictures of the pulley off then you take the three mounting bolts off which are behind the pulley. My question is how is the pulley attached? Is there a bolt in there. I could not see or feel one. Any help on how to remove the power steering pulley would be appreciated.

Thanks
-Bob

[sl1starter]

The FSM is correct with the power steering pump. There are indeed 3 bolts securing the power steering pump. They're behind the pulley. You just have to get a socket (don't remember the size of the bolts) into one of the three holes of the power steering pulley and locate the bolts.

That's effectively how I did it when I had to replace my intake gasket. Boy, was that fun.... I think I spent about an hour trying to get that damn heater hose off. Nothin' but patience and cramped hands.

[BobbyBeans]

Originally Posted by sl1starter

The FSM is correct with the power steering pump. There are indeed 3 bolts securing the power steering pump. They're behind the pulley. You just have to get a socket (don't remember the size of the bolts) into one of the three holes of the power steering pulley and locate the bolts.

That's effectively how I did it when I had to replace my intake gasket. Boy, was that fun.... I think I spent about an hour trying to get that damn heater hose off. Nothin' but patience and cramped hands.

Oh. So you don't have to take the pulley off to get to those power steering pump bolts? I assumed I needed to take the pulley off because that's what the FSM picture looked like. I'll take a closer look at that.

Thanks.
-Bob

[rc1488]

Originally Posted by BobbyBeans

Oh. So you don't have to take the pulley off to get to those power steering pump bolts? I assumed I needed to take the pulley off because that's what the FSM picture looked like. I'll take a closer look at that.

Thanks.
-Bob

nope. not needed. watch richppins video on it. 3 bolts and its out. ziptie it to one of the strut studs

[ssicarman]

Unless you are replacing the pump or the pump shaft seal the pulley stays in place. All of the bolts that you need to remove to get the pump off can be accessed with the pulley in place.

[alordofchaos]

and pretty sure they're 10mm head bolts

When I did the timing chain a few months ago (closing on to a year now), I remember thinking how nice it was that everything from the front is all the same; 10mm bolts - unlike some cars where they use 5 different size fasteners, all a combination of torx, bolts, allen and screws

[BobbyBeans]

Ok, thanks for all the feedback in the power steering pump removal. I should be able to get to it this weekend. My goal for this weekend is to move that pump off to the side, remove the tensioner and idle pulley, get the #1 cylinder at TDC, and remove the main crank pulley.

After that I'll be ready to remove the timing chain cover. I am getting deeeeper ... and still having fun

Thanks
-Bob

[rc1488]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9qnvG_TcFo

[BobbyBeans]

Originally Posted by rc1488

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9qnvG_TcFo

Interesting trick but I can't use it since my engine is partially disassembled

I've got an impact wrench and a breaker bar ... I sure hope that's enough to loosen that crank pulley bolt.

Thanks
-Bob

[BobbyBeans]

I'm getting very close to removing the timing chain cover (this weekend or next) and there is something in the Haynes and FSM about needing a special tool so I wanted to ask about that.

Haynes says:

" Caution: Insert a crankshaft front seal installer tool while removing the front cover, or the timing chain guide could be damaged ... when the cover has been unstuck and removed from the block about an inch the tool can be removed."

My questions are: where do I find this tool? Is this tool really necessary? Is there a procedure or helpful tip that will allow me to do the same thing but with more common set of tools? Any videos that show this aspect of the job

Thanks.
-Bob

[alordofchaos]

I don't remember using a special tool.

then again, I was replacing the timing chain guides anyway, so wasn't too worried about damaging them.

Looking at the diagram, I really can't see how anything related to the front oil seal could damage the timing chain guides - they're kind of higher up

Keep your old crankshaft sprocket - you'll be using it when reinstalling your timing chain cover. You flip it around and insert it from the front to keep the oil pump aligned when installing.

[steelmanwy]

Originally Posted by BobbyBeans

" Caution: Insert a crankshaft front seal installer tool while removing the front cover, or the timing chain guide could be damaged ... when the cover has been unstuck and removed from the block about an inch the tool can be removed."

The tool is to make sure the crank sprocket doesn't get pulled out, along with the chain, subsequently damaging the chain guide. I've never done the procedure so I'm not sure how likely it is to happen...

[steelmanwy]

It appears to be dual purpose from the description...and it appears to be made from kryptonite if you look at the price
http://gmspecialservicetools.spx.com...s.aspx?id=4657

[rc1488]

Tool is not needed. If the crank sprocket starts to slide out push it back in. Highly unlikely though, as the chain is under tension.

[alordofchaos]

Originally Posted by steelmanwy

The tool is to make sure the crank sprocket doesn't get pulled out, along with the chain, subsequently damaging the chain guide.

Ah, that makes sense, thanks. Though like rc1488 said, seems unlikely as the chain should hold it back

I did it without the special tool, no problems. First I've heard of the tool, actually

[BobbyBeans]

Ok, great info everyone. I feel a lot more comfortable about this. What a crazy price on that special tool - I'm in the wrong business

So, I will be careful removing the timing cover and in the unlikely event that the crank shaft sprocket starts to slide off I'll push it back on.

When I install the cover I'll need an old crank shaft sprocket as an "alignment tool". I wasn't assuming I needed to buy a new timing chain set. I figured I'd inspect it and see what it looks like. Its possible the previous owner replaced it recently. Can anyone tell from my pictures (previous post) if the top sprockets and chain shows obvious signs of being old? I've never seen one before now so I'm not should what an OK one looks like. I can post pictures that are zoomed in more if that would help.

If it turns out that my current set is new/fine I'll still need that "alignment tool". Maybe I could get an old crank shaft sprocket from a salvage yard?

If I do need to get a timing chain set I think I've read here that the RockAuto.com CLOYES Part # 94189S $149 (picture attached) is a good one. Is that still the recommendation?

My goodness I'm learning a lot
Thanks
-Bob

[alordofchaos]

I could not tell my timing set was worn from inspection (though I knew it was because of the timing chain "clatter" as it was running).

Two schools of thought:

1) If it ain't broke... (why spend $150 on a $175 car?). The timing chain will tell you when it needs to be replaced by clattering at you; as long as it's kept oiled, the chain should last the life of the car - though you should check the extension of the tensioner in there; if it's fully or nearly fully extended, replacing may be a good idea (I think there's a spec somewhere, FSM/Chiltons? on the extension)

2) pulling the timing cover off was such a PITA that it's worth putting in a new set just to never have to worry about it again.

Since you have teh engine out of the car (I think), removing the timing cover will actually be pretty easy - just a bunch of bolts and then prying it off the old RTV. The hardest parts (IMO) are the result of doing it in the car - no clearance around the front of the cover to wrench or pry.

When I did mine, I kept thinking about how easy it would be if the engine were out of the car...

Probably if I were confident the owner kept the oil up and the tensioner were not far extended, I personally would not replace the chain. Otherwise, if keeping the car, I would replace it just to never, ever have to worry about it again

[BobbyBeans]

Originally Posted by alordofchaos

I could not tell my timing set was worn from inspection (though I knew it was because of the timing chain "clatter" as it was running).

Before I started the engine tear down a few weeks ago I had the car running and tried to listen for a "clatter". It was hard to tell because the engine was running rough from the misfire on #3 and loud from a hole in the exhaust pipe. I put my ear real close to the timing cover and listened for a good 60 seconds. I do remember thinking that it sounded pretty good. I did not hear a "clatter". Anyway I'll know more when I get the cover off. By the way I have not pulled the engine out. I just don't have the tools for that. I'm doing all my work with the engine in.

Two schools of thought:

1) If it ain't broke... (why spend $150 on a $175 car?). The timing chain will tell you when it needs to be replaced by clattering at you; as long as it's kept oiled, the chain should last the life of the car - though you should check the extension of the tensioner in there; if it's fully or nearly fully extended, replacing may be a good idea (I think there's a spec somewhere, FSM/Chiltons? on the extension)

The Haynes manual says:

Timing Chain Tensioner:
DOHC ( standard range - depressed to full range) ...... 0.059 to 0.374 inch

If it looks ok and its inside that limit I may just go with the original. But if the tensioner is outside that range its definitely time for a chain.

How do people feel about the "RockAuto.com CLOYES Part # 94189S"?

Thank
-Bob