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Old 12-19-2012, 11:56 AM   #5
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 220

2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
1995 SL2
Default Re: Help with 01 LW300 Timing Belt and Seals

Agree on the timing belt tool kit. It takes away much of the guess work and makes things go smoother. I did not bother with the oil seals since they were not leaking.

If you decide to replace the oil seals, keep in mind that the single crankshaft E-20 bolt holding the crank gear is torqued down to a whopping 184+ ft/lbs. The starter bump method may or may not be sufficient to break this bad boy loose. If you try the starter bump method, do so with the timing belt still on. Otherwise the pistons will likely hit open valves and cause damage. If the bump starter method is unsuccessful, you will need to bolt up a tool to hold the crank still while trying to loosen the E-20 bolt. At these torque levels, you will need a good impact wrench or a long breaker bar.

Also, the FSM states that the 4 torx head cam gear bolts and the E-20 crank gear bolt are special TTY (Torque To Yield) which means they have been stretched to near their elastic limits. They should be replaced. I have heard of folks reusing old TTY bolts successfully. I have also heard of old TTY bolts snapping while being torque down for the second time that will ruin your day.

If it were me, I would use new bolts. The other option is to not bother replacing the oil seals if they are not leaking.

The AllData or FSM has these torque specs for new TTY bolt installation:
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt: 37ft/lbs + 60 degrees + 15 degrees
Crankshaft Drive Gear Bolt: 184ft/lbs + 45 degrees + 15 degrees


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