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Old 12-15-2012, 03:01 PM   #7
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Location: Brookline, MA
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1995 SL2
Default Re: 95 sl2 wont start , just replaced timing chain

Originally Posted by robul View Post
Correct, The colored links directly on the dots, with the dots strait up , But The crank key was at the 12 oclock position as stated in the alldata,lined up with the mark on the block. Before I took the old chain off I turned the engine manually until the cam dots where strait up, and the #1 cyl was at TDC, after it lined up i didnt turn the cams or crank when I put the new chain on. Could it be 180 degrees out?
When I said straight up, I meant 12 o'clock (just like the cam gears). There is no such thing as 180 degrees off (unless it was actually at 6 o'clock...). It is true that the crank rotates twice for every single rotation of the cams, however, it doesn't matter which rotation it is in, because the same thing happens each time it turns. As long as the dots on the cam gears lined up, and the double marked links were directly opposite the crank key, it doesn't matter how anything was oriented. The procedure for lining everything up (crank at 3 o'clock, line up the cams, then turn crank counter-clockwise to 12 o'clock) is just to prevent the valves from hitting the pistons while you're installing and turning the cams (the 3'oclock position puts all pistons in the middle of their bores, so nothing will interfere). As long as all the colored marks lined up, that's all that matters; there is no possible way to have it wrong, if the links line up (assuming you bought the chain from a reputable company, and the links are marked correctly--I haven't heard of any that aren't, but stranger things have happened with foreign companies).

Originally Posted by robul View Post
Lets say the chain is on perfectly and compression comes back good. What else is left? The fuel pressure regulator? weak coils? mabye the ICM?
It's unlikely for both coils to fail at once. It should still attempt to run, on two cylinders. Also, if the coils are good enough to consistently jump the gap between the towers, they should be able to jump the much smaller plug gaps, even under the higher cylinder pressure. A weak, but still firing, coil will typically show up as a misfire under load (much higher pressure), not a no-start condition.

If the fuel pressure is insanely high, I suppose it could flood immediately; it's worth checking, but it's unlikely. An ICM failure is possible, but unlikely. If you have spark and fuel, it's definitely doing something right... Assuming you don't have an oscilloscope to test it, your best bet is typically to get a "coil pack" from a junkyard, which typically includes both coils and the ICM (they're not common failure parts, so junkyard parts are usually pretty safe, and aftermarket parts are known for being unreliable and even defective right from the start).

Have you tried disconnecting the battery, or pulling the PCM B fuse, to reset the computer (quick and easy, and will rule out any incorrect adaptation caused by the timing chain problem)?

High compression build: .033" shaved/ported head, flat-faced valves; gen3 rods, pistons, tie-plate; OE header, custom CAI, SDA street cams with adjustable sprockets, WBO2, SAFCII, LSD. ASE A1-A8+L1


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