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Old 03-25-2017, 09:16 PM   #25
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 9
Default Re: Clutch Hydraulics Diagnosis

Back again!

I posted about a no-start/no-crank last summer, got some input and experienced the nightmare of swapping the starter. (After pulling the alternator and swapping the battery. I'm still emotionally scarred.)

My clutch bombed out, (clearly), and I had some symptoms prior to the failure.
  1. Squeeky clutching over time, especially when it was hot out.
  2. Needed to pump the clutch a bit from time to time to shift. <check>
  3. Some fluid was expressed, so, on wet pavement, it looked like my poor girl wet herself (sheen on water). However, the fluid level in the master was fine. (loss of pressure at the slave?)
  4. I didn't notice any change in the pedal travel. No play that I could discern. All the way up, all the way down. I'll call that good. <check>
  5. Wire test? Hmmm, "Not less than 11.18mm"? I'll assume 10mm qualifies, and I'll also assume that 11.18mm is borderline to begin with. If you can't get that much travel, you start to have issues. <check?>

I suppose it's safe to assume it's the hydraulics? I'm praying it is. Pulling the engine is not something I'm looking forward to, and I can only burn $100 or so, at this point.

Those of you who can't seem to locate the inspection hole, on my 1997 SC2, there's a rubber dust boot around the slave cylinder, pressed flush against the housing. It's not hard plastic, so it can be pried away a bit. You'll find the inspection hole under the boot, next to the slave on the back side. I HAD to pull the battery, airbox, overpressure box, and battery tray to get at it. When you put the wire in, it MUST be perpendicular to the housing, parallel to the slave cylinder. Any angle will throw off an accurate measurement. I used a white coat hanger wire, btw, with a Sharpie.

My thanks to you, Barn Owl.
I hope this will get me back on the road.

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