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Old 12-29-2019, 02:37 PM   #15
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,177
Default Re: Cylinder 3 misfire & Fuel in Oil

Is the car completely "out of service" now, can you start disassembly right away? Things will go a lot easier and better if this isn't a 'rush job". Even if this has to be done outdoors, having some of the engine innards exposed shouldn't be much of a problem, just keep things covered so they can't catch any rain/snow/hail. Don't forget the stuff that can blow, just protecting from a vertical exposure may not be enough... I'm assuming exposed parts would be left with their "natural" oily finish, not thoroughly degreased and then left outside.

Photos will be very helpful for us to advise what you are seeing or problems you are running into.

Considering your time frame and tight budget, I advise doing the with the engine still in the car, but some things are hard to get to that way (timing cover!), so others may advise removing the engine. Listen to the opinions, there is +/- both ways.

That hole in the exhaust you described (pictures!!!) is probably in what is called the "down pipe", possibly the "flex pipe". It will definitely have to get repaired before this will pass smog test; maybe even before the engine will run completely normal. Replacing that pipe usually means replacing the cat, no matter how you go about it. I think some folks have found those pipe/cat assemblies new for about $180, but it might be quite a search. Worse yet, the replacement units are not always (often?) a proper fit, so there will be some fussing to get things aligned unless you go to a muffler shop for welding. Or can your friends do welding? In my area, cats are removed at JY right away for recycling, so no use even discussing sourcing the down/flex pipe from a JY, you would still have to have a new cat and have it welded in.

I would start the disassembly by hitting all nuts/screws on the exhaust system with a penetrating oil, like "PB Blaster". WD-40 is useless for this purpose, don't even bother with that! That penetrant needs to soak in for hours/days, so "recoat" it a few times as you move on to begin the real disassembly.

Which is... removing the timing cover. There are a lot of fairly easy things to remove there, but getting to some of the screws that actually fasten the cover can be quite "entertaining". Be prepared for some frustration. (This is assuming the engine is still in the car). Here are a few tips:

1) Don't completely remove accessories like the alternator, power-steering pump, or A/C compressor. Leave those attached to their wires/hoses and just flop them off to the side.

2) There is one screw in the upper-center of the timing cover that is kind of hidden (buried down in a "well", as I recall). Don't try to pry that cover off until you are sure all screws are out... Don't forget the screws coming up from the oil pan, either. No, the pan does not have to come off or even be loosened at the other screws holding it to the engine

3) The big screw holding the crank pulley in place can also be a challenge. It is easy to get to (I assume you have removed the RF wheel and plastic splash-shield behind the wheel), but is quite tight. Holding the crank while trying to turn that screw is the problem. I prefer the "rope in a hole" method (will describe later, if you want), but you will get many other suggestions. Just keep in mind that you need to re-install that screw. Some ideas, like using an impact wrench or "bumping" the starter, are useless for the re-install, you might as well adopt a way that will do both the remove and re-install.

Is that enough for now? I, too, feel like I am writing a "book", and with only a few fingers. It takes a while.

Oh, if you are shopping for a JY head already (I would wait to see what the old on is like), there are a few "gotchas" there. I will detail later today.

One last thought: Have you repeated the compression test, to be sure there wasn't an error there? Have you added a table-spoon of oil to the top of the #3 to do a "wet" compression test there. I don't expect there will be any change in compression, but it is easy to do and may give some clue about what you are going to find when the head is pulled. Do you have the tools to do a leak-down type of test? Applying compressed air to the bad cylinder and hearing a lot of hissing at the exhaust tail pipe is a pretty sure indication an exhaust valve is leaking/burned.


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