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Old 10-18-2003, 10:26 PM   #4
Lurker1999 is on a distinguished road
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 364

1993 SC2

Here's some additional tools that I found quite helpful in the process:

6 inch 3/8" extension
7mm socket, 6 point, 1/4" drive
3/4" x 2 foot pipe as a breaker bar

If you spray the nuts with penetrating oil the night before everything will go much smoother.

You don't have to jack the car up. You can use the space in front of the passenger side front tire and the wheel well to lever your hydraulic floor jack up without needing to raise the front of the car.

You will likely want the extension with the breaker bar so you can exert enough force to undo the nuts without banging into anything.

You likely will not need new nuts but may need new studs. Buy both and return what you don't need.

There are two lengths of studs differing by about a half centimeter. The new studs appeared to have been coated with something

Be sure to check that the bottom of the mount with the frame side bolted loosely is flush with the top edge of the engine before you try to tighten things down. If they don't meet up exactly use the lift to raise the engine a bit.

Enjoy the vibration free ride (I am)!

93 SC2a 69k


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