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Old 06-22-2010, 10:56 PM   #21
OldNuc
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Far Southwestern Iowa
Posts: 66,678
 

1998 SC2
Default Re: Help with `92 SC2 - Random Stalls, No Hot Starts, High RPMs on Start

Quote:
Originally Posted by WesAlvaro View Post
Big news, but first a reply:
Ok, well, if the PCM doesn't prevent the fan from running at high speed then maybe it was just timed well with me slowing down.

Most likely.

Anyway, the fan does operate when jumping the two terminals. I think I'll also be doing the manual fan switch mod once we get this thing running.

If the fan runs when jumping the 2 terminals in the ALDL connector then its fine and you are just being jumpy about the gauge. The fan will not turn its self on until the pointer is AT the red. Just relax and let auto do it.

The only code flashing was 12, so no more info there.

I was only looking for the FAN test part of it. OBD-1 does not store codes unless the light is on.

I'll be waiting to see what's up with the A/C before bypassing the pressure switch since I checked the switch and it's probably right, there's no refrigerant in there. I'll be getting some 143 with dye and loaning that leak checker from AutoZone at some point...
Do not use any stop leak in that system as it will ruin the TXV(thermal expansion valve) and do not put in more than 2 cans of gas as that is a full charge. Be sure that he caps are installed on both charging fittings or you will have a leak. Do not run the compressor without gas AND cold air. No cold air means no oil circulation and you will burn up the compressor. I realize $$ is tight so you are forced to do this yourself.

So I took off the air filter from the throttle body and stuck my finger on the air intake for the IAC. I was able to bring the RPMs down to a managable level and then (we'd been afraid to let it idle that hard for that long, while still increasing! ) it actually regulated itself and calmed down to a normal idle! What does that mean?!?!

That means you have located the problem probably. There are 2 possibilities here. First step is to properly adjust the throttle stop screw. It's on the side of the throttle body. With the car warmed up you block that IAC port completely and adjust the stop screw for 450 to 550 RPM. You have to get it down to that RPM band. Then see if the IAC is capable of controlling the RPM properly. If not its time to go to the junk yard and buy another IAC. That will be both cheaper and get you a better part. You can probably clean a used one if careful. Clean off the pintle and its seat in the throttle body and clean out the inside of teh IAC with nothing but CRC Electrical Connection cleaner. Any other solvent will ruin the stepper motors inside of it. Once clean ed and dry put it all back together and see if it works now. You can go to RockAuto and see which years have the same IAC, or ask.

We tried that a few times and it kept starting back up strong, I was able to get the RPMs down and then it normalized.

In other news, I fiddled with putting the air filter back on and cleaning up. I closed the hood and decided that I would see what would happen.

It didn't start!

It turned over fine, but it didn't start! There was food on the table, so I couldn't mess with it anymore, but this seems to me like the CKS is getting hot and opening up.

Hopefully, if it's this easy to recreate, I'll try it again tomorrow and test for a spark with a spare plug or should I just take the wires off the 1&4 coil like richpin does in a video?

So, what do you think is causing the high RPMs, now?

And what do you think would be causing it not to start after it starts fine a few times?

THANK YOU SO MUCH AGAIN!
The failure to start when hot could be the setting of the stop screw. Once its fixed then move on to the CKP. Swat one bug at a time or you go nuts.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

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