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-   -   Just Wont Start WIth New Battery (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232192)

sbcomposer 08-12-2017 01:05 PM

Just Wont Start WIth New Battery
 
Just two days ago I noticed when starting my 2007 Redline it was as if it wasn't going to turn over - really weak turn but then it would start. Got worse as they day progressed.

When I got home and turned off the car I thought I would check. And I got the famous dead battery clicking sound. At least I made it home!

So yesterday I bought a new battery. Put it in. Now I get nothing but a click, a few lights, and then just an icon that looks like a pump. I tested the new battery with a Digimeter and its at 12.1 volts.

I am trying the security reset now however the lock icon has not been staying lit. I am only trying this because I have no idea what else to look for at this point.

A note to this: When I try and start it I hear what sounds just like a CD trying to eject from the player but its not the CD. This sound actually comes from the passenger side engine compartment.

sbcomposer 08-12-2017 02:06 PM

Re: Just Wont Start WIth New Battery
 
Reads 12.29 With ignition off
Reads 12.17 With ignition on

rb6667 08-12-2017 03:53 PM

Re: Just Wont Start WIth New Battery
 
That new battery is a little weak. Most new batteries will be 12.6 or higher. Probably not the issue however.

I would look very closely at your battery cables both Pos and Neg. Look where they connect at all 4 points.

My hunch is a bad connection on either cable or both. A little sandpaper can do wonders. The other possibility is corrosion inside the cables hidden by the insulation.

Keep us posted on what you find.

fdryer 08-12-2017 03:54 PM

Re: Just Wont Start WIth New Battery
 
I'm not familiar with Redlines and whether or not it has a conventional or electronic starting circuit. Conventional starting is the ignition switch supplying 12v to the starter solenoid. The auto companies have slowly changed over to electronic starting where logic (low voltage) signals from the ignition switch is sent to the engine computer and a command signal is sent to a relay to switch 12v power, sending 12v to the starter solenoid. Electronic starting complicates the starting circuit. And before assessing which starting circuit you have, what's mileage? This tends to give a perspective on wear and tear of starters.

Starter life can last anywhere from 50k-250k+ miles, depending on how many times it's used per day. There are zero bench tests for starters despite some claiming store tests are valid. Starters haven't changed and still use a starter solenoid, large set of electrical contacts, and brushes for the starter motor. Solenoid, electrical contacts within and brushes are wear items. The only way to find out about starter wear or failure is to disassemble it to examine for worn or broken parts.

The best way to determine a faulty starter; get under the car and measure for 12v on the small gauge (purple?) wire attached to the starter. This will be the single wire on its own small terminal on the starter solenoid. It will have 12 volts on it when the ignition key is held in START position. For safety, disconnecting this wire and measuring it will prevent the starter from powering up. As long as the ignition switch is held in START position, 12v should be on this wire. This verifies the starting circuit only. Cycling the ignition switch, starting, releasing, starting, should show 12v on and off. If the starting circuit operates correctly with 12v on this wire, replace the starter. If 12v isn't measured on this wire, the starting circuit is faulty.

pierrot 08-13-2017 09:56 AM

Re: Just Wont Start WIth New Battery
 
[QUOTE=sbcomposer;2251465]Reads 12.29 With ignition off
Reads 12.17 With ignition on[/QUOTE][FONT="Palatino Linotype"][SIZE="3"]I'm assuming that this information relates to the new battery.
If so, the voltage read above suggests that the battery had been sitting on a store shelf somewhere for too long without being tested. When I was in the automotive aftermarket world we were informed that batteries should be tested before they leave the store and if the charge was low then they needed to be hooked up to a charger and brought up to full strength. There is nothing new nor unusual in this as it is also true for car batteries to lose some of their charge if they sit in a vehicle which has not been driven for an extended period of time. ([I]Hence, it is typically a good idea to disconnect a car's negative battery cable during such a time to prevent power from being drained while the car is "out of service."[/I])

While 12.17 V is adequate to start a car's engine, I believe that you should hook this battery up to a "trickle" charger when you have the opportunity. This will bring the battery up to full capacity. The charging system (alternator and voltage regulator [integral to the alternator here]) relies on a battery in good working order to power [B][U][COLOR="blud"]every electrical accessory[/COLOR][/U][/B].[/SIZE][/FONT]

pierrot 08-13-2017 01:55 PM

Re: Just Wont Start WIth New Battery
 
[FONT="Palatino Linotype"][SIZE="3"]I should've mentioned this in the previous post: while the likelihood of purchasing a new defective battery is low, [I]it is still possible[/I]. You can't be harmed by having this battery tested.[/SIZE][/FONT]

onefunkar 08-13-2017 07:48 PM

Re: Just Wont Start WIth New Battery
 
You don't have passlock so shouldn't need security reset. Has immobilized pk3+ system.


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