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Complex 12-27-2013 10:13 AM

Removing Crank Shaft Bolt
 
Greetings everyone -

I have a 2007 V6. I need to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. From what I understand, there is a special tool needed to remove the bolt. With that in mind, I have a few questions:

First, there seems to be a few versions of the tool. Exactly which tool do I need?

Second, there seems to be all manner of stories regarding how difficult the bolt is to remove. Is the difficulty in removing the bolt different in each circumstance? Or are the stories exaggerated?

Also, my dad says there is a gasket underneath the pulley wheel attached to the crankshaft; do I need a special tool to remove that gasket?

Last, the root of the problem is an oil leak from that particular gasket, does anyone have any knowledge of that problem? My plan is to replace the gasket underneath the gasket underneath the pulley, will that fix the problem?

Thanks for any replies.

far2grumpy 12-27-2013 11:55 AM

Re: Removing Crank Shaft Bolt
 
1 Attachment(s)
[QUOTE=Complex;2031643]Greetings everyone -

I have a 2007 V6. I need to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. From what I understand, there is a special tool needed to remove the bolt. With that in mind, I have a few questions:

First, there seems to be a few versions of the tool. Exactly which tool do I need?

Second, there seems to be all manner of stories regarding how difficult the bolt is to remove. Is the difficulty in removing the bolt different in each circumstance? Or are the stories exaggerated?

Also, my dad says there is a gasket underneath the pulley wheel attached to the crankshaft; do I need a special tool to remove that gasket?

Last, the root of the problem is an oil leak from that particular gasket, does anyone have any knowledge of that problem? My plan is to replace the gasket underneath the gasket underneath the pulley, will that fix the problem?

Thanks for any replies.[/QUOTE]

There is special tool to immobilize the crank pulley while center bolt is removed. I found several on eBay - see them here:

[url]http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=honda+crankshaft+tool&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds=[/url]

Once the crank pulley is immobilized you'll need a heavy duty socket for the crank bolt - as well as a couple of long breaker bars (one for crank pulley socket and another for crank bolt).

You could also use an impact wrench for crank bolt but I've heard you need a 3/4 inch drive wrench to be effective.

One expert mechanic (ssicarman) advocates changing front crank and cam seals when timing belt and water pump are replaced.

I've attached GM service manual extract for replacement of crankshaft front seal and they're commonly available from INTERNET vendors - such as RockAuto.com - priced from $10 to $20 dollars.

Use private message (left click on my screen name) to send me an email address if you'd like any of the documents referenced in oil seal extract.

burlyvue2 12-28-2013 06:58 PM

Re: Removing Crank Shaft Bolt
 
Oreilly's will loan you the tool as long as you return it within 48 hours. Just found that out yesterday. Nice touch.

Mine was a real monster. Need at least a breaker bar and a piece of pipe on it as a cheater.

billysvue 12-28-2013 08:44 PM

Re: Removing Crank Shaft Bolt
 
:zzz: I remember doing this on an old Datsun.

:yes:I disconnected the primary wire( pulll the plug wires/disable the ignition)!!!

-set the E-brake, blocked the wheels
and positioned a 2 foot, 1/2" drive breaker bar( w/ proper socket on the crank bolt )- the handle braced against the proper frame rail that would take the brunt of the force when the engine was bumped a rev or two by the starter.

:upset:You can get in all kinds of hurt if you figure the rotation wrong and rig it so it torques the bolt tighter, shears it off, breaks your breaker.

RobertGary1 12-28-2013 09:22 PM

Re: Removing Crank Shaft Bolt
 
I used two non ratcheting 1/2" drivers. One attached to the immobilizer and the other attached to the center bolt (impact socket). Then a 4' long piece of gas pipe. Gas pipe is cheap and can be cut to length at any hardware store.

DO NOT use ratcheting drivers as you'll blow out the mechanism.

BTW: I started with my 650 ft/lb impact driver to no affect.

-Robert


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