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-   -   Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures) (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46123)

Twin_Cam 12-22-2004 11:52 AM

Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
[url]www.xwarlordx.com/twin_cam/tech.html[/url]

Many images to help, plus torque values and bolt sizes. Enjoy.

Luke 12-22-2004 02:08 PM

Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)
 
I can only salute you on your outline, detailed & exceptional pictures. Simply fabulous.......:grnjump:

Twin_Cam 12-22-2004 06:45 PM

Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)
 
Thank you. Hope it helps people. What the dealer wants to charge you to do it is ridiculous :dizzy:

Luke 12-23-2004 11:48 AM

Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)
 
Granted, and this in violation of the policy of this forum being used [u]only[/u] for [u]input[/u] of recommended "procedures" for a given work effort, your input, is a very good example of how impressive the professionls have been in the outlining of various work efforts.:grnjump:

Zuul24 12-24-2004 03:39 PM

Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)
 
I wish I had such detailed information when I changed the from wheel hub on my 1998 Dodge Caravan. :)

I may not have ended up having to purchase a new steering knuckle due to my getting a bit rambunctious. :)

Chas

99GreenSL1 01-02-2005 10:46 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
This is a great how to outline, it made the job much easier than going in blind. This job is fairly simple given you have all the necessary tools. There is only one thing I would like to add. I had access to a press so I decided to press and bearing and hub myself. After pressing the bearing into the knuckle make sure you support the bearing with somthing other than just the snap ring when pressing the hub in to the bearing/knuckle assembly. I also placed the hub in ice while i ate lunch so that it would be somewhat easier to get the hub pressed in without damaging the bearing.

Isis 10-25-2005 03:47 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Is it possible to please actually post it in here? The site is currently down :(

Twin_Cam 12-01-2005 07:02 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
The site is back up. Sorry to those who had to wait. Cheers.

amazinghl 12-02-2005 09:02 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
I press my own bearings.

Low Saturn 12-06-2005 06:59 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Was there something wrong with your lower control arm? Is that why it was removed?

93 saturn sl2 12-10-2005 04:05 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Your site seems to be down again?

Twin_Cam 01-07-2006 07:37 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
[quote]I press my own bearings.[/quote]

Ok.

[quote]Was there something wrong with your lower control arm? Is that why it was removed?[/quote]

I took it off because I couldn't get the lower ball joint to separate, and the special tool I had wouldn't fit with the CV joint right above it. Plus taking if off allowed my to torque that bolt down, which I otherwise couldn't have done with the control arm on the car because, again, the CV joint is in the way.

[quote]Your site seems to be down again?[/quote]

Seems to work for me.

rg567 01-18-2006 09:43 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Very nice!!! I think my wife could change my wheel bearing for me with this:D Hey, thats a good idea....................

hsv sc2 01-24-2006 11:23 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
nicely done.

Any other work (mounts, bushings, struts, etc) that you would suggest doing at the same time? Final thought on whether this should be done in pairs (like pads) or is it fine to do one bearing at a time?

SWargy 10-26-2006 12:49 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Anyone know where I can find the info on how to change the wheel bearing. the site seems to be down and im hoping to change mine today. I did it oncde before on the drivers side, so i slightly remember how to do it but the info owuld be nice just so i can oduble check.

dmc 10-28-2006 02:38 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
[QUOTE=SWargy]Anyone know where I can find the info on how to change the wheel bearing. [/QUOTE]

Here's a version from archive.org. It doesn't have any pics though, maybe you can take some when you do the job ;)

How to replace a hub/bearing on an S-series

NOTE: I HIGHLY recommend you have 6-point sockets for this job. It's almost necessary. Some of the bolts are torqued to inifnity and god knows how long they've been there in the elements etc etc...

Another thing: Saturn recommends that if you replace a hub, you should replace the bearing at the same time, and vice-versa. Something to do with them wearing. So although it's not necessary, it is recommended that you replace both at the same time.

1. Somehow gain access to the huge halfshaft nut (the one in the middle of the 4 lug nuts). Take off the wheel cover, or the center cap if you have alloys. If you have aftermarket wheels, take off the center caps or use the spare.

2. Make sure the car is in gear and the parking brake is set TIGHT. Loosen, but do not remove, the halfshaft nut. It requires a 30mm socket, usually sold in the speciality tools section of an automotive store. Use a breaker bar, and a long length of pipe makes life easier...


3. Jack up both sides of the car (even if you're only replacing one bearing, it will relieve stress on the anti-sway bar, and make the job easier) and put it on jackstands.


4. Take out the two caliper guide bolts (14mm).


5. Set the caliper aside (it sits nicely on the anti-sway bar, or you can hang it from the spring with some heavy wire or coat hanger).


6. Remove the brake pads.


7. Remove the two caliper bracket-to-steering knuckle bolts (18mm) and slide the bracket off.


8. Remove the brake rotor.


9. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on top of the steering knuckle where it connects to the steering arm and put some penetrating oil on. Loosen the nut (18mm), and unscrew it almost to the end of the bolt, but leave it on.


10. Put on the handy tie rod end puller from Autozone (part # OEM 27022) on as shown. The screw part should come down squarely onto the bolt. Screw it down. This is impressive, and makes a loud pop. The tool with probably also go flying, along with your hands and wrench, so be prepared for skinned knuckles etc etc. Remove the nut, push the bolt down out of the steering knuckle, and push the steering arm off to the side.


11. Put a few marks on the strut/steering knuckle so you can assemble it later and your alignment won't be TOO far off.


12. Loosen, but do not remove, the two strut-to-steering knuckle bolts (21 and 18mm).


13. Remove the cotten pin from the castle nut below the axle/CV joint. Put some penetrating oil on it. Loosen the nut (18mm, you'll need a box-end wrench), but do not take it all the way off.


14. Place a crowbar/long piece of pipe under the frame, but over the sway bar and pry. Hopefully the control arm will pop off (that cool popping noise again). If it doesn't, read on. If it does, remove the castle nut all the way, remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts completely, wiggle the steering knuckle out, and skip to direction #19. If the halfshaft sticks, place a block of wood on the end of the bolt that sticks through the hub, and hit it with a hammer.


15. So, it didn't come off? Lucky you. This was my method. It seemed reasonable at the time. If you can find a better way, more power to you. Remove the control arm-to-frame bolt (15 and 18mm).


16. Remove the control arm-to-swaybar nut (24mm!).


17. Take off completely the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Then just kind of yank on the steering knuckle. You'll have to move stuff around, it'll come out. If the axle is jammed on, place a block of wood onto the bolt that sticks through the hub, and rap on it with a hammer. Success!


18. Apply the tie rod end puller/bolt torture tool to the bolt that holds the control arm on. Again, watch yourself. The tool will go flying, and your wrench too. Once it's free, remove the castle nut all the way.


19. Take the steering knuckle assembly with a new hub and bearing to the Saturn dealer or machine shop and have them press out the old components and press the new ones in. If your dealer is retarded like mine, they'll forget to take out the snap ring that holds the bearing in and break their press and piss you off. When it's done, it'll look like this. Shiny.


20. If you had to take the control arm off, attach the control arm to the knuckle, torquing the bolt to 55 ft-lb (having an assisstant helps). Replace the cotter pin. If you need to move the nut so the cotter pin fits through, always tighten, never loosen. Put all the bolts in and torque them down. The frame-to-control arm bolt is 92 ft-lb for the bolt, or 74 ft-lb for the nut (depends on which side you put the torque wrench). The swaybar-to-control arm nut is 106 ft-lb.

21. Put the axle back through the hub, and manuver the knuckle so it sits in between the two things on the strut. Putting the two bolts through helps keep things in place, and thread the halfshaft nut on a little.

22. Connect the steering arm. Torque the bolt to 33 ft-lb. Remember to replace the cotter pin. (NOTE: The cotter pin should be wrapped around the bolt and through the low spots in the castle nut, like the old one you took off. Pliers work best.)


23. (If you haven't already) put the castle nut onto the control arm bolt under the axle, and torque it to 55 ft-lb. Remember to use a new cotter pin.

24. Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts, making sure to line up your alignment marks. Torque them to 126 ft-lb for '96+ cars, or 148 for '91-'95 cars.

25. Tighten down the halfshaft nut so it's fairly snug (remember the washer).

26. Put the rotor back on, threading a lug nut onto the threads to hold the rotor against the hub. This will make it easier to put the caliper bracket on. The caliper bracket bolts get torqued to 81 ft-lb. Put the brake pads back in. Push the caliper back down over the brake pads. Put the caliper guide pins back in (thicker pin goes in the upper hole). Make sure to grease them (white lithium grease works well). Torque them to 27 ft-lb.


27. Put the wheel back on and snug up the lug nuts. Take the car off of the jackstands. Torque the halfshaft nut to 145 ft-lb. Then torque the wheel lug nuts to 103 ft-lb.

28. Before driving the car, press the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the rotors again, otherwise you'll get quite a scare the first time you hit the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor!


29. Enjoy your new hubs/bearings. If they were seriously screwed up, you'll notice a significant reduction in road noise, especially when turning.

Twin_Cam 03-22-2007 06:33 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
UPDATE: Linked pictures from Photobucket

How to replace a hub/bearing on an S-series

NOTE: I HIGHLY recommend you have 6-point sockets for this job. It's almost necessary. Some of the bolts are torqued to inifnity and god knows how long they've been there in the elements etc etc...

Another thing: Saturn recommends that if you replace a hub, you should replace the bearing at the same time, and vice-versa. Something to do with them wearing. So although it's not necessary, it is recommended that you replace both at the same time.

1. Somehow gain access to the huge halfshaft nut (the one in the middle of the 4 lug nuts). Take off the wheel cover, or the center cap if you have alloys. If you have aftermarket wheels, take off the center caps or use the spare.

2. Make sure the car is in gear and the parking brake is set TIGHT. Loosen, but do not remove, the halfshaft nut. It requires a 30mm socket, usually sold in the speciality tools section of an automotive store. Use a breaker bar, and a long length of pipe makes life easier...

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0499.jpg[/IMG]

3. Jack up both sides of the car (even if you're only replacing one bearing, it will relieve stress on the anti-sway bar, and make the job easier) and put it on jackstands.


4. Take out the two caliper guide bolts (14mm).

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0502.jpg[/IMG]

5. Set the caliper aside (it sits nicely on the anti-sway bar, or you can hang it from the spring with some heavy wire or coat hanger).


6. Remove the brake pads.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0505.jpg[/IMG]

7. Remove the two caliper bracket-to-steering knuckle bolts (18mm) and slide the bracket off.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0509.jpg[/IMG]

8. Remove the brake rotor.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0511.jpg[/IMG]

9. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on top of the steering knuckle where it connects to the steering arm and put some penetrating oil on. Loosen the nut (18mm), and unscrew it almost to the end of the bolt, but leave it on.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0516.jpg[/IMG]

10. Put on the handy tie rod end puller from Autozone (part # OEM 27022) on as shown. The screw part should come down squarely onto the bolt. Screw it down. This is impressive, and makes a loud pop. The tool with probably also go flying, along with your hands and wrench, so be prepared for skinned knuckles etc etc. Remove the nut, push the bolt down out of the steering knuckle, and push the steering arm off to the side.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0517.jpg[/IMG]

11. Put a few marks on the strut/steering knuckle so you can assemble it later and your alignment won't be TOO far off.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0518.jpg[/IMG]

12. Loosen, but do not remove, the two strut-to-steering knuckle bolts (21 and 18mm).


13. Remove the cotten pin from the castle nut below the axle/CV joint. Put some penetrating oil on it. Loosen the nut (18mm, you'll need a box-end wrench), but do not take it all the way off.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0513.jpg[/IMG]

14. Place a crowbar/long piece of pipe under the frame, but over the sway bar and pry. Hopefully the control arm will pop off (that cool popping noise again). If it doesn't, read on. If it does, remove the castle nut all the way, remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts completely, wiggle the steering knuckle out, and skip to direction #19. If the halfshaft sticks, place a block of wood on the end of the bolt that sticks through the hub, and hit it with a hammer.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0521.jpg[/IMG]

15. So, it didn't come off? Lucky you. This was my method. It seemed reasonable at the time. If you can find a better way, more power to you. Remove the control arm-to-frame bolt (15 and 18mm).

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0532.jpg[/IMG]

16. Remove the control arm-to-swaybar nut (24mm!).

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0533.jpg[/IMG]

17. Take off completely the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Then just kind of yank on the steering knuckle. You'll have to move stuff around, it'll come out. If the axle is jammed on, place a block of wood onto the bolt that sticks through the hub, and rap on it with a hammer. Success!


18. Apply the tie rod end puller/bolt torture tool to the bolt that holds the control arm on. Again, watch yourself. The tool will go flying, and your wrench too. Once it's free, remove the castle nut all the way.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0525-1.jpg[/IMG]

19. Take the steering knuckle assembly with a new hub and bearing to the Saturn dealer or machine shop and have them press out the old components and press the new ones in. If your dealer is retarded like mine, they'll forget to take out the snap ring that holds the bearing in and break their press and piss you off. When it's done, it'll look like this. Shiny.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0531.jpg[/IMG]

20. If you had to take the control arm off, attach the control arm to the knuckle, torquing the bolt to 55 ft-lb (having an assisstant helps). Replace the cotter pin. If you need to move the nut so the cotter pin fits through, always tighten, never loosen. Put all the bolts in and torque them down. The frame-to-control arm bolt is 92 ft-lb for the bolt, or 74 ft-lb for the nut (depends on which side you put the torque wrench). The swaybar-to-control arm nut is 106 ft-lb.

21. Put the axle back through the hub, and manuver the knuckle so it sits in between the two things on the strut. Putting the two bolts through helps keep things in place, and thread the halfshaft nut on a little.

22. Connect the steering arm. Torque the bolt to 33 ft-lb. Remember to replace the cotter pin. (NOTE: The cotter pin should be wrapped around the bolt and through the low spots in the castle nut, like the old one you took off. Pliers work best.)

23. (If you haven't already) put the castle nut onto the control arm bolt under the axle, and torque it to 55 ft-lb. Remember to use a new cotter pin.

24. Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts, making sure to line up your alignment marks. Torque them to 126 ft-lb for '96+ cars, or 148 for '91-'95 cars.

25. Tighten down the halfshaft nut so it's fairly snug (remember the washer).

26. Put the rotor back on, threading a lug nut onto the threads to hold the rotor against the hub. This will make it easier to put the caliper bracket on. The caliper bracket bolts get torqued to 81 ft-lb. Put the brake pads back in. Push the caliper back down over the brake pads. Put the caliper guide pins back in (thicker pin goes in the upper hole). Make sure to grease them (white lithium grease works well). Torque them to 27 ft-lb.

[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g76/HiWatt519/DSCN0535.jpg[/IMG]

27. Put the wheel back on and snug up the lug nuts. Take the car off of the jackstands. Torque the halfshaft nut to 145 ft-lb. Then torque the wheel lug nuts to 103 ft-lb.

28. Before driving the car, press the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the rotors again, otherwise you'll get quite a scare the first time you hit the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor!

29. Enjoy your new hubs/bearings. If they were seriously screwed up, you'll notice a significant reduction in road noise, especially when turning.

skybolt58 08-26-2007 08:09 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
I learned in tech school if you do not have a press, just get the old bearing off/out the best way you can, ie. BFH.... and freeze the new bearing for about a day, and but ie the hub inthe oven at 400 degrees for about 25 min. and the bearing will slide right in. I have done this on wheel bearing , and rear end bearings, works like a charm.

nivlem7 09-30-2007 12:23 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Anyone ever do this and remove the old bearings and press in the new ones themselves? I have a press available, but I'm not sure how involved the process is. Can someone explain more about the hub/bearing assembly?

awake1563 04-15-2008 02:46 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
A couple pointers, for future reference...

The balljoint... get a cheap (like $10-15) Balljoint separator (pickle fork) and beat the hell out of that thing. If you're using a true "balljoint separator" I think the fork spread is 15/16 or something, it won't damage the balljoint hardware. but it will indeed thrash the dustboot, which is why you should also special order some replacement boots before you begin the operation. If you're not replacing your balljoint at the same time, I'm sure that dust boot could use a replacement anyways, and I'm sure you haven't greased that puppy in a while, so take advantage of having that boot off, clean out all the old nasty grease and pack it full of new grease. This was my preferred method, however, do not use this method if you want to reuse the dust boot on the balljoint. The pitman arm puller is slick, but taking the control arm out is a PITA.


If you're replacing the strut at the same time...
The upper strut bearing/mount... to keep all those nice pigeon poppers where they're supposed to be, once you get the spring compressed enough barely enough to take tension off the rod, undo the nut, then with the assembly upright, use a flathead screwdriver between the rubber upper spring "seat" and the spring to gently pry the to apart, then lift the whole bearing assembly off, supporting it from underneath, by that rubber spring seat. When/if you accidentally separate the rubber seat from the upper mount w/ the studs on it, be prepared for the 40 or 50 some odd bb's, it is preferablle to do this in a more controlled setting... clean and repack 'em, unless there's a bunch of rust on the races or the bearings of course.

PRESSING THE STEERING KNUCKLE / HUB / WHEEL BEARING !!!!

Make sure you remove the retaining ring before pressing the old bearing out.

MAKE SURE YOU PRESS THE BEARING INTO THE KNUCKLE FIRST!!!!
then press the hub into the bearing. I/we made the mistake of pressing the bearings onto the hubs first D'OH! and the bearings ended up getting thrashed when we realized we had to take them off to press them into the knuckle first. Even if they hadn't gotten visibly thrashed, I'm not sure you'd want to "re-press" a bearing anyways. Luckily not a terribly costly mistake, but potentially time consuming if you don't have extra bearings nearby.

A note on the freezing / heating method. To do this you would first have to get the old bearing and hub out of the steering knuckle. PITA without a press and machinist's tools, although maybe do-able with a vice and the right dies of course. After that, clean the knuckle before sticking it in the oven or heating it with a torch (i have not done this... you'll have to figure out how hot is hot enough) take the bearing, which you put in the freezer last night at the lowest setting, and hopefully it'll slide right in. I have seen this method work in other situations, no guarantees though! just give it a nudge with the vice maybe? The part that I'd be hesitant about though is this... now you have to heat the knuckle AND BEARING up to expand it, to slide in the frozen hub. I have no idea how much heat would be needed to make this work, and whether or not it would damage the bearing seals and internals yadda yadda, and think it's probably best just to have it pressed.

so theres my .02 cents. Long story short just press them.

intercessor 08-29-2008 10:44 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
I have everything off, except how do I get the axle out of the knuckle?

Tnx

intercessor 08-29-2008 11:23 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Ok I just whacked the end and the knuckle loosened from the spline.
Is there anything I should look out for as far as keeping the alignment ok when reinstalling?

Thanks

intercessor 08-29-2008 09:23 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
:x Took the car for a test drive and the drowning sound didn't go away! All that effort and it did crapola arrrgh.

Thoughts?

intercessor 08-30-2008 07:21 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Not "drowning" but "droning" :to make a sustained deep murmuring, humming sound. Some reason it won't let me edit on this thread.

haymaker11 11-03-2008 08:58 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
After i press in the new wheel bearing, what would happen if i did not put the retainer ring (clip) back in for the bearing?

Since the bearing is pressed in, it shouldn't come out right? Is the retainer ring just a "precaution".

Am i crazy to drive it without the retainer ring in place?

navaidstech 11-05-2008 11:03 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Is it really necessary to replace the hub as well if it's just the bearing that's shot? Or is there a possibiliy that the hub itself may go bad?

thanks

melfar 07-19-2009 06:32 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
your site is no longer valid? Trying to get wheel bearing off and it won't budge.

twin2004 08-17-2009 01:31 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Cannot get down load of pictures? Help!!!!

sdowney717 02-02-2010 07:36 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
heat the knuckle near the bearing with a torch. It will expand and lesson the grip on the hub bearing. Clean all the old rust off the inside of the knuckle, I wire brush with a drill.
Use heavy grease or antiseize on these parts when you put it together. We just did a Honda and the new ones after cleaning up just slipped together.

mrclean92124 04-07-2010 05:12 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Anyone know where to order just the balljoint dust boot for a 96 SL2??? I'm having no luck finding.

Update: I found [URL="http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82056"]THIS[/URL] thread to be very helpful...including part numbers. Seems a generic boot is adequate for both tierod ends and balljoint. One tip was NOT to use pickle fork to separate lower control arm.. just use a crowbar or other instead: [QUOTE]Use a long crow bar, wedge it on top of the LCA and below the sway bar.. then put a lot of force/stand on the end and it should pop the stud out.[/QUOTE]

PS: Nothing like a quick post to assure that hours of fruitless searching immediately morph into a search hit. LOL

Thanks.

joshp 08-13-2011 01:30 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
I don't understand why you mark the strut to knuckle mounting location with a marker. Won't everything align since the bolt holes aren't slotted? Or are the bolt holes slotted?

Twin_Cam 08-18-2011 10:00 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Sorry, not on here very often, let me answer some questions...

1. To get the axle out of the hub, hold a piece of wood right up to the part of the axle that the huge 30mm axle nut screws onto, and hit it hard with a 2 lb. sledge hammer, or other big hammer. It'll eventually move back and forth enough to be able to push it through the hub.
2. Saturn recommends you change the hub and bearing at the same time, so they wear evenly, like brake pads and rotors. You don't HAVE to, it's just one of those "well, it's already apart, might as well" situations. It's only a little extra money.
3. Further down the first page is the directions that aren't linked to that site, pictures and all. Just scroll down a bit farther.
4. The holes in the strut are slotted, to allow for changes when you get an alignment done on the car. Therefore, just bolting the knuckle back in without checking can give you some pretty nasty alignment settings, to the point where it could affect handling and tire wear. Be sure you have an alignment done after removing the knuckle if you're unsure you have it in the EXACT spot it was.
5. Definitely install the c-ring that holds the bearing in. It can work itself out without that c-ring holding it in place. So yes, you're crazy. There's a chance your wheel could fall off.

NFP 09-22-2011 10:15 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Just the thread I was looking for, thanks Twin Cam!

NFP 09-27-2011 05:22 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
All done, was pleasantly surprised at how well the ball joint came off without using a separating fork, just a 4' bar and a 3lb maul ;)

vincey 11-07-2011 02:00 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Am I blind or stupid or both that I'm not seeing the pictures that go along with these instructions? These steps are many more than I'm used to from other make/models and might be more than I can handle on my own. Pictures will let me know if I'm willing to go the distance or not.

Thanks!

edlee 11-07-2011 10:35 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
The original link in the beginning of the thread is no longer valid, but the post is repeated with pictures in message 17 further down in the thread.

frix 11-08-2011 10:01 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
I can't see the pictures either. Not even in the post you mentioned. Not sure why. We're going to be changing mine in a week or two.

vincey 11-08-2011 12:36 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
So I'm not the only one not seeing pictures, specifically not seeing pictures in post #17. Or Chris Angel is running this thread and making me not see them. If this thread turns into a popcorn bowl, I'll know this to be true.

vincey 11-08-2011 03:29 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Cool! Magic! That Chris Angel is the best I tell ya! lol

Thanks whomever, the pictures will really help.

Question though, when looking up the hub assembly at autozone for my '01 SC2, multiple tools show up at the bottom of the screen. Can those be used instead of paying $30 a pop to have the old bearing pressed out and then new one pressed in? If one of those loan a tools work, I'd rather do that. I haven't called a machine shop yet, just looked online at their prices, so I don't know if they charge $30 to press out and then $30 to press in or what. Just trying to be cost effective since I'm doing both sides of the front.

Thanks again!

vincey 11-08-2011 05:32 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
ok, now I'm getting confused, does the '01 SC2 need to be pressed or not? I called around for parts, AZ and AA both say its a kit and the bearings need pressed. PB says its an assembly that comes pressed. If it comes pressed is this an easier fix than I thought? What steps from Post #17 can be eliminated? Does the knuckle assembly still come into play? Thanks for any assistance offered.

tyshubrick 11-10-2011 12:30 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
So, I'm seeing the Pictures just fine.

I am so very thankful for the time you took to make the post as I've just removed my hubs/knuckle and have dropped them off at the local shop to have them pressed apart and the bearings pressed in.

And regarding post #20, the pickle fork worked perfectly and easily. No damage to the boots on the ball joint, either.

One question I do have, is, what are the torque specs for putting it back together?
[LIST][*]2 18 mm castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints[*]2 19mm (or are these 21?--I can't remember now )bolts holding steering knuckle to strut[*]2 18 mm bolts holding caliper housing to the knuckle[*]2 14 mm bolts holding the caliper[*]1 30 mm nut holding the hub onto the spindle/shaft[/LIST]
Again thank you for this.

tyshubrick 11-10-2011 11:03 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
So, somehow I didn't see the torque specs in the thread. I'm an idiot.

Thanks again for the steps.

Jess Lookin 04-05-2012 10:50 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Thanks for the write up Twin Cam ! Just did mine yesterday, wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

rbar 04-07-2012 08:51 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
[QUOTE=Jess Lookin;1863982]Thanks for the write up Twin Cam ! Just did mine yesterday, wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.[/QUOTE]

I agree, this site has been very helpful in this process.
There are a few details that could be added, such as the Half-Shaft nut will likely require a deep-well 30mm socket instead of a regular...mine regular one would not reach. Extra trip to town.
Also, have an extra breaker bar handy; my wheel bearings had never been done before, even after soaking, the first breaker bar broke at the ball detent. Extra trip to town.
I bought the cheap HF 12 tone press, it is a piece of junk, but with some adjustments (squaring, filling the huge tolerances, etc.) it works for this project. You will still need to "fit it" to the press blocks using chunks of metal and dies slightly smaller than the bearing on the pushing sides, and slightly larger on the exit side, of course. I used some old plumbing fittings slightly modified and the cheap aluminum HF bearing driver dies. Drive 50 miles to nearest HF.
The old rusted keeper ring was the biggest problem...better wear gloves if you do not have the right tool for removing this. After several soakings I was just able to work one end free, got a screwdriver in behind it and manhandled it out. Once the end is out and bent up, you have a handle to wrestle it the rest of the way out.
If you press your own bearing out, be safe. When my bearing let go, it sent me and my son running for cover! 'Came out most of the way, ran out of clearance, I was able to hammer it the rest of the way out, amazingly, without losing the outer race.
I had my new bearing in the freezer for two days prior to this. It required very little pressure from the press to get it in, even without heating the yoke. If one heated up the yoke, I believe it would probably drop in, or if one was really careful and had the right die, tap in manually. DON'T use any sharp objects around the bearing, when you put the keeper pin in...you may poke the bearing seal, which is palstic.
Leave this assembly in the sun to heat up and when hot, take your hub out of the freezer and press it in.
I recommend a little anti-seize on all threads in reassembly...even if it impacts the torque readings slightly, I don't want to have such a hassle breaking them loose next time.

BTW, It really bothers me psychologically that any wheel bearing would have plastic components! Therefore, I'd say be careful with ANY heat applied, as odd as that sounds, with a wheel bearing...these are sealed units, and huge.
OUT OF CURIOSITY, ARE there any aftermarket bearings which are all metal?

Saturn98sl 04-18-2012 01:26 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Im in the middle of this mess now, biggest problem is the holes in the retainer ring are gone and that sucker is rusted in. Im taking it to work tonight to go nuts on it, everything else went pretty smoothly.

tom_94305 07-06-2012 08:27 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Is it possible to press out the bearing/press in the new bearing with the steering knuckle assembly on the car? If so, what tools are recommended for the pressing?

justanotherjpr 07-07-2012 04:15 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
[QUOTE=tom_94305;1894220]Is it possible to press out the bearing/press in the new bearing with the steering knuckle assembly on the car? If so, what tools are recommended for the pressing?[/QUOTE]

I don't see a reasonable way that one could press all the parts in/out without removing knuckle and certainly with less effort than removing the knuckle.

SL1commuter 08-18-2012 08:05 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
ok, what is the trick to get that damn retaining ring out!! would a torch and a brass drift loosen it up? I have a new hub and bearing to I'm not too concerned about what's in there now. I've ruined to pairs of snap ring pliers so far:x

SL1commuter 08-18-2012 08:08 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
well i sprayed it with PB Blaster and will let it sit over night so I can go pick up some snap ring pliers tomorrow

SL1commuter 08-26-2012 11:03 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
tip for those about getting the snap ring out, I took a small pair of needle nose pliers pried out on one side of the snap ring then took a very small screwdriver behind it. took another screwdriver and just walked the snap ring right out.


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