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-   -   Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures) (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46123)

tyshubrick 11-10-2011 12:30 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
So, I'm seeing the Pictures just fine.

I am so very thankful for the time you took to make the post as I've just removed my hubs/knuckle and have dropped them off at the local shop to have them pressed apart and the bearings pressed in.

And regarding post #20, the pickle fork worked perfectly and easily. No damage to the boots on the ball joint, either.

One question I do have, is, what are the torque specs for putting it back together?
[LIST][*]2 18 mm castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints[*]2 19mm (or are these 21?--I can't remember now )bolts holding steering knuckle to strut[*]2 18 mm bolts holding caliper housing to the knuckle[*]2 14 mm bolts holding the caliper[*]1 30 mm nut holding the hub onto the spindle/shaft[/LIST]
Again thank you for this.

tyshubrick 11-10-2011 11:03 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
So, somehow I didn't see the torque specs in the thread. I'm an idiot.

Thanks again for the steps.

Jess Lookin 04-05-2012 10:50 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Thanks for the write up Twin Cam ! Just did mine yesterday, wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

rbar 04-07-2012 08:51 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
[QUOTE=Jess Lookin;1863982]Thanks for the write up Twin Cam ! Just did mine yesterday, wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.[/QUOTE]

I agree, this site has been very helpful in this process.
There are a few details that could be added, such as the Half-Shaft nut will likely require a deep-well 30mm socket instead of a regular...mine regular one would not reach. Extra trip to town.
Also, have an extra breaker bar handy; my wheel bearings had never been done before, even after soaking, the first breaker bar broke at the ball detent. Extra trip to town.
I bought the cheap HF 12 tone press, it is a piece of junk, but with some adjustments (squaring, filling the huge tolerances, etc.) it works for this project. You will still need to "fit it" to the press blocks using chunks of metal and dies slightly smaller than the bearing on the pushing sides, and slightly larger on the exit side, of course. I used some old plumbing fittings slightly modified and the cheap aluminum HF bearing driver dies. Drive 50 miles to nearest HF.
The old rusted keeper ring was the biggest problem...better wear gloves if you do not have the right tool for removing this. After several soakings I was just able to work one end free, got a screwdriver in behind it and manhandled it out. Once the end is out and bent up, you have a handle to wrestle it the rest of the way out.
If you press your own bearing out, be safe. When my bearing let go, it sent me and my son running for cover! 'Came out most of the way, ran out of clearance, I was able to hammer it the rest of the way out, amazingly, without losing the outer race.
I had my new bearing in the freezer for two days prior to this. It required very little pressure from the press to get it in, even without heating the yoke. If one heated up the yoke, I believe it would probably drop in, or if one was really careful and had the right die, tap in manually. DON'T use any sharp objects around the bearing, when you put the keeper pin in...you may poke the bearing seal, which is palstic.
Leave this assembly in the sun to heat up and when hot, take your hub out of the freezer and press it in.
I recommend a little anti-seize on all threads in reassembly...even if it impacts the torque readings slightly, I don't want to have such a hassle breaking them loose next time.

BTW, It really bothers me psychologically that any wheel bearing would have plastic components! Therefore, I'd say be careful with ANY heat applied, as odd as that sounds, with a wheel bearing...these are sealed units, and huge.
OUT OF CURIOSITY, ARE there any aftermarket bearings which are all metal?

Saturn98sl 04-18-2012 01:26 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Im in the middle of this mess now, biggest problem is the holes in the retainer ring are gone and that sucker is rusted in. Im taking it to work tonight to go nuts on it, everything else went pretty smoothly.

tom_94305 07-06-2012 08:27 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Is it possible to press out the bearing/press in the new bearing with the steering knuckle assembly on the car? If so, what tools are recommended for the pressing?

justanotherjpr 07-07-2012 04:15 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
[QUOTE=tom_94305;1894220]Is it possible to press out the bearing/press in the new bearing with the steering knuckle assembly on the car? If so, what tools are recommended for the pressing?[/QUOTE]

I don't see a reasonable way that one could press all the parts in/out without removing knuckle and certainly with less effort than removing the knuckle.

SL1commuter 08-18-2012 08:05 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
ok, what is the trick to get that damn retaining ring out!! would a torch and a brass drift loosen it up? I have a new hub and bearing to I'm not too concerned about what's in there now. I've ruined to pairs of snap ring pliers so far:x

SL1commuter 08-18-2012 08:08 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
well i sprayed it with PB Blaster and will let it sit over night so I can go pick up some snap ring pliers tomorrow

SL1commuter 08-26-2012 11:03 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
tip for those about getting the snap ring out, I took a small pair of needle nose pliers pried out on one side of the snap ring then took a very small screwdriver behind it. took another screwdriver and just walked the snap ring right out.

SL1commuter 08-26-2012 11:06 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
[QUOTE=justanotherjpr;1894297]I don't see a reasonable way that one could press all the parts in/out without removing knuckle and certainly with less effort than removing the knuckle.[/QUOTE]
check this out, it's probably a fortune though!! [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQLge25pUQI&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQLge25pUQI&feature=related[/URL]

SL1commuter 08-26-2012 11:08 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
ok maybe not amazon has it for about 400 [URL="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZG69D2/?tag=hyprod-20&hvadid=15469971339&hvpos=1o1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18669256621855121944&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&ref=asc_df_B004ZG69D2"]http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZG69D2/?tag=hyprod-20&hvadid=15469971339&hvpos=1o1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18669256621855121944&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&ref=asc_df_B004ZG69D2[/URL]

SL1commuter 08-30-2012 07:08 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
well I pressed the bearing into the knuckle no problems but went to press the hub into the bearing and blew out the second half of the bearing, must not have had it straight and probably should have had something underneath the bearing. this is my first time with a press, any suggestions?

Rileysowner 09-26-2012 05:17 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Thanks to this post I was able to get everything apart. It took longer that I expected, thank-you salt on the roads in the winter, but it is apart. The machine shop closed at 5 when I finally got things disassembled on the one side, so I will have to bring the knuckle in tomorrow. Hopefully it won't be too expensive to press it out and press the new one in.

whiteh34 10-22-2012 12:16 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
I have everything off, now I am a bit stumped on how to press out the bearing itself. I got the HUB and the retaining ring off.

What side does the bearing need to be pressed from? The back or the front? And is it pushed from the inner race (the wider one i guess)?

Any help is appreciated! Thank you!

avuwa96 02-07-2013 10:59 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Great write-up, well illustrated step-by-step w/ pics.
Don't know if anyone can confirm this for step 27

27. Put the wheel back on and snug up the lug nuts. [B]Take the car off of the jackstands.[/B] Torque the halfshaft nut to 145 ft-lb...

I'm not 100% sure, but shouldn't this be done while the wheel is jacked up so the pressure is applied evenly? I was under the impression you can reduce lifespan of the new bearing if you don't torque this with the wheel of the ground.

Six_Spot 02-07-2013 02:44 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
This thread has been the most helpful to getting this project done. However, it has taken me 3 days (so far) and a couple trips to the store once I realized I did not have all the correct Metric sockets. I am now stuck on trying to get the lower control arm off the knuckle. I borrowed a small pry bar and have nothing to extend it to give more leverage. Any Ideas?? Everything is so rusted I doubt I will be able to take off the tie rod from the frame.

Thanks.
its an 02' SL BTW

Six_Spot 02-08-2013 04:27 PM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Nevermind with my question. Shortly after I posted I finally found Richpin's videos and learned all I needed was a BFH. A few whacks and I had it out. :) I then found a local shop that let me use their press for FREE! All in all a good learning experience and will tackle the intake manifold gasket when I have a day off and all the right tools.

dcockrum 02-17-2013 09:00 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
I am on my second replacement of the front left bearing. I replaced just the front left with a 'masterpro' bearing from Oh Really only 30k ago. The masterpro bearing is $36. I had 150k on it then. At the time I figured that the original lasted 150k, so a cheap bearing should last at least half that, which would take me out to 225k, which would be the time to drive it off a cliff. That may be wrong or it may be that my hub is bungled. I did hit a curb pretty bad once. Any way, I found a Timken bearing for $33 on RockAuto. I don't have any prior experience with bearing quality, but the bearing from O'Reilly did say china, and the Timken did say USA. So for three bucks less and a few days wait it seemed a good choice. Now the first time I took it apart those nuts and bolts down there did take a lot of torque to loosen. However, as standard practice I applied a little antisieze to threads and the drive shaft splines AND threads. This second time taking it apart everything came apart pretty easy. I went straight for the 6' pipe extension on the driveshaft nut, and it only took about 30 lbf to loosen the nut. Figure I had a lever arm of 5'. That would mean the torque was about right. Compared to initial removal which probably took 100+lbf.... USE ANITSEIZE!

Now then having had such great luck with the hub nut, I decided to skip the caliper pins and go straight for the brake bracket bolts. Walla! brake off in one piece!

The first time I took the hub and spindle to Johnson Sales north of Madison, WI, because they are near my house. I had planned on doing the same again this time, but it was Saturday night, they were closed, and I was two hours ahead of schedule thanks to anitsieze. Also, since the first round I realized I have access to a press. So off to the press I went.

I pressed out the spindle, but the outer half of the outer race decided to stay on the spindle. MotherFlippingGRRRR! I have to wonder if that was a built up outer race. The Timken bearing doesn't have any sign of a connection in the middle outside of the outer race?!? NO MORE MASTERPRO!!! So, I took the angle grinder to it and a hardened chisel. That got it cracked and seperated from the splindle side seat a little. A gear puller did the rest.

Next up; putting it back together. I considered putting stuff in the freezer, however, since it's cold as a witches pizz here in wisco, I brought the hub inside and left everything else in my 2-car deep freeze. That'll buy me 70 degrees of thermal expansion. Not quite 400 that the oven would offer, but I have a 20 ton press, and I'd rather not wear gloves to handle a smoking hot hub. Hopefully, I won't have anything more of interest to report, but if I do, I will let ya know. Later.

'99 SL2.

dcockrum 02-17-2013 10:39 AM

Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)
 
Oops I meant the inner race on the outside stayed on the spindle. ..so I clamped the spindle in a vice and went to town on the race with a grinder.


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