2003 vue spark plug service

[mwaynew]

Hello- Time to clean and gap my plugs but they're not your typical screw out/screw in deal. I can't find a service manual (can anyone help with that?) so I'm hesitant to take it on blind. Anyone serviced plugs on the 2003 4 cylinder? Thanks!

[Leland Lehman]

Try AUTOZONE, manuals & plugs, under $30 total! :usa:

[frostypanic]

Check out your local Wal-Mart, I picked up four Auto-lite Platinum plugs for under $9. The plugs sit under the coil pack. Remove the four bolts holding the coil pack and the rubber boots are connected to the coil pack. The plugs are located deep in the cylinder head. With plugs that cheap why bother with cleaning buy new. I replaced my wife's L eco-tec at 90K and will replace my L eco-tec at 72 this weekend. Hope this helps.

Brian

[Ritz]

Check out your local Wal-Mart, I picked up four Auto-lite Platinum plugs for under $9. The plugs sit under the coil pack. Remove the four bolts holding the coil pack and the rubber boots are connected to the coil pack. The plugs are located deep in the cylinder head. With plugs that cheap why bother with cleaning buy new. I replaced my wife's L eco-tec at 90K and will replace my L eco-tec at 72 this weekend. Hope this helps.

Brian

Yep, this is a pretty easy DIY task. I also recommend tossing the old plugs and just buying new ones. They're pretty cheap. Recommended tools:

3/8" ratchet
6" extension
spark plug socket
magnetic pickup tool (or long nose pliers)

The last item comes in handy if your plug socket's rubber liner isn't snug and the plug keeps falling out into the cylinder head when you're trying to extract the old ones. A pair of long needlenose pliers can be used instead if you've got 'em. When you're replacing the plugs, torque them down just enough to seal the crush washer (maybe about 8-10 ft/lbs). If you're planning to keep the vehicle for a while you may also want to put a little dab of anti-seize compound (available at any auto parts store) on the plug threads so they're easy to remove next time.

Take the plunge. The water's fine.

Cheers,

[Tom92SCm]

As far as I know, there are no Haynes manuals available at autopart stores for VUEs. I found a set of FSM (Factory Service Manuals) on ebay.

The plugs are suppose to be 100K mile plugs. So is the coolant- but I'm a little skeptical about leaving the Dex-cool in there that long.

--Tom

[Ritz]

As far as I know, there are no Haynes manuals available at autopart stores for VUEs. I found a set of FSM (Factory Service Manuals) on ebay.

The plugs are suppose to be 100K mile plugs. So is the coolant- but I'm a little skeptical about leaving the Dex-cool in there that long.

--Tom

I've also ordered the FSM. Fortunately, changing the plugs is pretty straightforward. I'm with you on the "longevity" of DEXcool. I change my coolant every 2-3 years, regardless of what the manufacturer says about "long life". Cheaper in the long-run to change the fluid than to change a radiator or a water pump. :-)

Cheers,

[Bigdaddy94sc2]

To be quite frank, if you arent feeling a misfire or getting a code, why change them? They really will last to 100k or more without a problem, they cant be cleaned (too fine) and are a pretty expensive plug considering... Most parts stores sell the CORRECT plugs for around $7 a piece, so $30 after tax when it isnt needed yet. Just my opinion though. If it isnt broke, dont fix it yet......

But if you want to, it is the 4 10mm bolts hoding the coils on, but dont forget to unplug the Ign Mod. It will come off as a big assembly. Then use at least a 6", but I use a 10" extension with a standard spark plug socket (if your rubber is worn, buy a new one, its service life is expired and is now an expensive deep well socket) take them out, they are already gapped (if the correct plugs) and tighten them down using your hands not a ratchet until tight, not using anti seize. Proceed to use the wrench to tighten just to snug, not too tight.... Then put back on the coil assembly and waallaa, 15 mins later, new plugs.

I still wouldnt change them yet without a problem though.....

[bigbird]

tighten them down using your hands not a ratchet until tight, not using anti seize.

Why no antiseize on the new plugs?

[Ritz]

Why no antiseize on the new plugs?

Indeed. Do tell.

[OhioVueBoy]

Antiseize can cause galling and overtightening of the plugs into an aluminum head, IIRC.

~D.J.~

[Mr Joe Handyman]

Antiseize will also allow them to come unscrewed unexpectedly from engine vibrations. Never use antiseize when it counts. (Especially things like lugnuts.) I've never seen a good reason to use antiseize in an automotive application.

Also I have heard that when replacing the plugs, it's a good idea to get the new plugs one step cooler in temp. Helps make the engine more efficent. And will net you a minor improvement in gas mileage.

[Bigdaddy94sc2]

Do you want the short version or the Bulletin straight from GM?

Impossible to torque properly...

But if the Bulletin is wanted, speak up.

If you ask me, it isnt necessary on an all aluminum motor anyways, but that is just me.

If you have problems getting them loose, they were probably overtorqued. If they werent overtorqued to start out, just let the engine get hot (fan comes on) and take them out then, will be much easier. Just little things you learn doing it for a LIVING.

[Ritz]

Do you want the short version or the Bulletin straight from GM?

Impossible to torque properly...

But if the Bulletin is wanted, speak up.

If you ask me, it isnt necessary on an all aluminum motor anyways, but that is just me.

If you have problems getting them loose, they were probably overtorqued. If they werent overtorqued to start out, just let the engine get hot (fan comes on) and take them out then, will be much easier. Just little things you learn doing it for a LIVING.

Sure, I'd love to see the bulletin. That's news to me. I'm glad you enjoy your living as much as I enjoy mine. :)

Cheers,

[1saxman]

Old trick for starting plug threads down in a head; put a 6" piece of stiff rubber fuel ine on the plug connector. This will allow you to carefully get it on the hole and turn it to get it started. Always turn the plug by hand at least 3 or four turns to make sure the threads are started right before putting a tool on it. If it won't turn by hand, you're crossed, so start over.

[bigbird]

Also I have heard that when replacing the plugs, it's a good idea to get the new plugs one step cooler in temp. Helps make the engine more efficent. And will net you a minor improvement in gas mileage.

I'd sure question that one, as well. I've also used antiseize on every plug I've ever changed. That includes motorcycle engines, snowmobile engines, outdoor power equipment, automobile, small truck. Never had a plug "come loose from vibration". Never had a torquing problem either. I'd sure like to see that GM bulletin as well. I wouldn't challenge GM engineering if they have good reason not to use antiseize.

[GearGuy]

I'd like to see the bulletin as well.
I use an old tooth brush to work a light coat into the threads, away from tip of the plug.
The torque to the lower end of spec.

[ctsmith]

For those of you that have changed plugs on the 3.0 V6, do you have to replace the intake manifold gaskets or are they reusable after you remove it to get to the plugs?

[wolfman]

I think the problem with Anti-Seize is that many people invariably use TOO MUCH. A VERY THIN coating is all that is required.

FYI: A few drops of ENGINE OIL on the plug threads will accomplish the same thing and not interfere at all with proper torquing.

[Bigdaddy94sc2]

Owned by double post... scroll down.

[Bigdaddy94sc2]

I think the problem with Anti-Seize is that many people invariably use TOO MUCH. A VERY THIN coating is all that is required.

FYI: A few drops of ENGINE OIL on the plug threads will accomplish the same thing and not interfere at all with proper torquing.

We have a winner! I have to do that when replacing plugs on S cars that are 8-9 years old or older, they go in smooth as silk....and come back out easy too. I have done that when changing plugs since I have been changing plugs!

[bk63]

I always use a torque wrench, especially working with anything aluminum.

[coolgreany]

Try AUTOZONE, manuals & plugs, under $30 total! :usa:


Leland,

What Vue manual is available at Autozone??

[Ritz]

Do you want the short version or the Bulletin straight from GM?


Just a gentle reminder. It seems you never posted the bulletin "straight from GM".

Back from vacation....did you miss me?

Cheers,

[Leland Lehman]

Leland,

What Vue manual is available at Autozone??



OOPS! I guess I made a bad assumption :redface:

[Bigdaddy94sc2]

Document ID# 784515
2003 Saturn ION


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Spark Plug Replacement
Removal Procedure
Notice: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Do not remove the spark plugs from a hot engine, allow it to cool first. Removing the spark plugs from a hot engine may cause spark plug thread damage or cylinder head damage.

Remove the ignition coil housing. Refer to Ignition Coil Housing Replacement .



Important: Remove any water and debris from the spark plug holes before spark plug removal with compressed air.


Remove the spark plugs with a spark plug socket.
Inspect the spark plugs. Refer to Spark Plug Inspection .
Installation Procedure
Gap the spark plug, using round wire type spark plug gap gage.

Gap
Adjust the spark plug gap to 1.14 mm (0.045 in).





Important: DO NOT coat the spark plugs with anti seize compound. Over torquing could occur and damage to the cylinder head threads may result.


Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the spark plugs with a spark plug socket.

Tighten
Tighten the spark plugs to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

Install the ignition coil housing. Refer to Ignition Coil Housing Replacement .


----------------------------------------------------

Happy now? :D

[Ritz]

Document ID# 784515
2003 Saturn ION


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Spark Plug Replacement
Removal Procedure
Notice: This engine has aluminum cylinder heads. Do not remove the spark plugs from a hot engine, allow it to cool first. Removing the spark plugs from a hot engine may cause spark plug thread damage or cylinder head damage.

Remove the ignition coil housing. Refer to Ignition Coil Housing Replacement .



Important: Remove any water and debris from the spark plug holes before spark plug removal with compressed air.


Remove the spark plugs with a spark plug socket.
Inspect the spark plugs. Refer to Spark Plug Inspection .
Installation Procedure
Gap the spark plug, using round wire type spark plug gap gage.

Gap
Adjust the spark plug gap to 1.14 mm (0.045 in).





Important: DO NOT coat the spark plugs with anti seize compound. Over torquing could occur and damage to the cylinder head threads may result.


Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the spark plugs with a spark plug socket.

Tighten
Tighten the spark plugs to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

Install the ignition coil housing. Refer to Ignition Coil Housing Replacement .


----------------------------------------------------

Happy now? :D


Yep, thanks! I will ignore the bulletin, but that is very good to know. :D

Cheers,

[Bigdaddy94sc2]

Yep, thanks! I will ignore the bulletin, but that is very good to know. :D

Cheers,

For some reason, I expected nothing less..... :D

[Ritz]

For some reason, I expected nothing less..... :D

I guess I'm just a rebel. I also cut off the "don't remove these under pain of death" tags from my new mattress. :)

[ssicarman]

Yep, thanks! I will ignore the bulletin, but that is very good to know. :D

Cheers,

The document that Bigdaddy94sc2 posted is for the four cylinder 2.2 LT engines just so that every one knows.

I have personally seen the results of anti sieze compound and over torque of the plugs. The plug well rapidly turns into a lake of Dexcool.

For the 3.5 LT engine you don't want to use anti sieze either. The torque is 18NM or 13 in lb.


You also want to keep in mind that most to all iridium and platinum plugs have a Chromate coating on tham that is designed to let the plugs survive in the heads for the life of the plugs.

[99blacktop]

I guess I'm just a rebel. I also cut off the "don't remove these under pain of death" tags from my new mattress. :)Wow, you really are a rebel, you cut off the tags which clearly state that the consumer can remove them.

[Ritz]

Wow, you really are a rebel, you cut off the tags which clearly state that the consumer can remove them.

Glad you see it my way. I'm going to start the first mattress label remover club. You can be the 2nd member. There won't be any girls allowed and we can wear coon skin hats just like at the Raccoon Lodge. I'll get the hats...you work on the secret handshake.

[D C]

imho, I would forget about changing the plugs until at least 100k miles.

I changed the plugs on my old Grand Prix at 100k miles. The only noticable difference between the old and new is that the new plugs were cleaner on the outside.

[wolfman]

Attention:

New rules have just been added to the Saturnfans fans site

1. Ritz is always right.

2. In the event that Ritz is obviously wrong, refer to rule #1.


That was a quick 2 weeks....The south of France close early? Or did China or Australia refuse to let you into the country?

[Ritz]

Attention:

New rules have just been added to the Saturnfans fans site

1. Ritz is always right.

2. In the event that Ritz is obviously wrong, refer to rule #1.


That was a quick 2 weeks....The south of France close early? Or did China or Australia refuse to let you into the country?


France was nice. I'm not going to China until next week. But I appreciate the fact that I was missed.

Toodles....