'03 Vue slave cylinder leaking

[xmaskarol]

My husband "luckily" got home the other day from work, but informed me that the slave cylinder on my 2003 Vue 5-speed is leaking and I have no clutch pedal. We ordered a new slave cylinder from the dealer, but they will not (or are him-hawing away) give us directions to replace it. Can someone help us? The tech at Saturn told us that there is a site to download the "how-to's" because they do not have a service manual for a VUE that new.

The disinheartening thing about this is that I have only 39,000 miles!! (it's only 3,000 miles out of warranty and Saturn is poo pooing the whole thing)!! I am so upset I can't see straight.

If anyone can point us in the right direction to obtain info on how to replace this I would be eternally grateful. It sure is a bummer being without a car -- in view of all the Christmas shopping I have to do yet!! hahahaha

Robyn

[IMkenNY]

The clutch slave piston requires removal of the transmission (its not external). Its a rather labor intensive job to remove the transmission

With the engine supported in position with a special jig the transmission and subframe are lowered out of the bottom of the Vue.

I would guess a good 10 to 15 hours of work and slightly over a thousand dollars to have it repaired at the dealer

DJ can give you the exact figure.... I bet he put a few extra hours in at his dealership to pay for his slave piston repair

[xmaskarol]

Thanks for the reply. Not exactly the news I wanted to hear though - looks like the dealership gets some more money. The problem is that the "trans tech" isn't thrilled to death about doing the job -- wonder if he's qualified enough. Maybe we should take it to a regular transmission place instead of the dealership? We've already purchased the slave cylinder unit from the dealer. What do you think? Can this be done at home instead of the dealer? I am just so upset to think that it isn't that far out of warranty and this happens....unbelievable. Guess QC isn't what it used to be.

[xmaskarol]

Question for ya? We can't seem to find a service repair manual (either Chilton's or Haynes) for the 03 Vue? Apparently they haven't come out with one yet? Have any ideas where we can get the necessary diagrams and instructions to do this job? My husband has worked on cars all his life....but this one has him baffled. Thanks for your help.

[ssicarman]

Basic proceedure is to remove the engine frame/cradle. Remove the trans and then the slave cylinder. Install in reverse. and bleed the clutch hydralic system which is an adventure in it self.

The following is the text for the trans removal proceedure. If you seriously want to DIY I can get the install and the slave cylinder replacement proceedures as well.

Transmission Replacement

Tools Required


• J 36346 Fascia Retainer Remover

• J 43405 Engine Support Fixture Adapter

• J 44015 Steering Linkage Installer

• J 44017 Stub Shaft Assembly Remover

• J 45341 Rear Wheel Drive Shaft Removal Tool

• SA9105E Engine Support Fixture - 3-Bar

• SA9133T Axle Seal Puller

• SA9173G Slide Hammer

• SA91100C Tie Rod Separator

• SA91112T Axle Seal Protector

Removal Procedure

Important: Record all pre-set radio stations.

Turn the ignition off.
Remove the battery cover.
Caution: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Install the SA9105E and the J 43405 .

Fasten the radiator to the upper radiator support.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.

Remove the wheels.
Remove the left inner splash shield.
Remove the ball joints.

Remove the tie rod outer to the knuckle nut.

Notice: Hold the ball stud from turning when removing/installing the nut. The boot can become torn and damaged if the ball stud turns.

Notice: Do not attempt to separate the joint using a wedge-type tool because seal may be damaged.

Using the SA91100C or equivalent, separate the tie rod from the knuckle.

Remove the lower control arm ball stud cotter pin and nut. Discard the pin.

Disengage the ball stud from the knuckle.

Important: Do not allow the stud to rotate. Secure the link stud with a wrench in order to remove the nut.

Remove the lower stabilizer bar links.
Remove the steering gear from the steering column assembly.
Remove the rear transaxle mount-to-cradle bolts.
Remove the rear transaxle mount bracket-to-transaxle bolts.
Remove the front lower mount through bolt from the cradle.
Important: The front air dam deflector stays connected to the cradle.


Remove the front air dam deflector from the body.
Place a jack under the cradle and remove the cradle bolts.
Carefully remove the cradle from the vehicle.

Notice: Do not use too much force when disconnecting the shift cables or damage may result.

Using the J 36346 or equivalent, disconnect the shift lever cables from the shift control housing by prying with even pressure.
Disconnect the shift lever cables from the shift lever cable bracket.

Disconnect the pressure line from the clutch actuator cylinder by removing the C-clip, then pull the line away from the clutch actuator cylinder.

Disconnect the backup lamp switch (1) and front wheel speed sensor (2).

Drain the transaxle fluid.
Remove the front transaxle mount from the transaxle.
Using the J 45341 and the SA9173G , disengage the right drive axle from the intermediate drive shaft.
Secure the drive axle away from the intermediate drive shaft.
Remove the intermediate drive shaft bearing retainer-to-support bracket bolts.
Important: Remove the retaining ring from the stub shaft prior to tool installation. Discard the retaining ring.

Remove the intermediate drive shaft. If the intermediate drive shaft is difficult to remove, use the J 44017 and the SA9133T .

Using the J 45341 (1) and the SA9173G (2), remove the left drive axle.
Secure the drive axle out of the way.
Remove the bolts from the top transaxle mount.
Lower the vehicle.
Lower the transaxle, with the engine support fixture, enough to remove the transaxle.
Raise the vehicle.
Secure the transaxle to the transaxle jack.


Remove the transaxle housing bolts on the engine side.
Remove the transaxle housing bolt on the transaxle side.
Lower the transaxle support stand.

[OhioVueBoy]

Mine ran $1,040 at work with my discounted parts rate. Someone off the street is looking at ~ $1,400-$1,500 to swap one out.

Thank God for keeping an emergency fund as well as having a few matured bonds intended for things like this.

Note, it seems that half of the time when these go, they take the master with them, too.

~D.J.~

[IMkenNY]

The SA9105E Engine Support Fixture - 3-Bar holds the engine in position while the subframe is lowered. (since only the right motor mount is left to hold up the engine after lowering sub frame)

For some reason craftsman doesnt make a SA9015e and instead I have used a chain hoist to support the engine however the hood would have to be removed to use a chain hoist.