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sunshn1972
09-05-2005, 03:54 PM
I cleaned my EGR valve today. I wasn't having any problems, it was just preventive maintenance. My 98 SL2 is at almost 121,000 miles, and as far as I know the EGR valve has never been cleaned. I was surprised that there was almost no build up on it. A few sprays of carb cleaner and a toothbrush got it shining in just a few minutes.

So here's what I did, with pictures.

sunshn1972
09-05-2005, 05:53 PM
1. Find the EGR valve. Since I had never heard of such a thing until about a month ago, this was an interesting task.

sunshn1972
09-05-2005, 05:56 PM
2. I removed the air intake tube to make it easier to get to the EGR valve. Remove the electrical connector from the top.

sunshn1972
09-05-2005, 05:57 PM
3. There is a bracket that has to e removed (see photo). Then remove the two bolts holding the EGR in place. One of them is under the lower end of the bracket.

sunshn1972
09-05-2005, 05:59 PM
4. Once the EGR valve is off, spray some carb cleaner in the two holes under the spot the valve came off. You can see the gasket in this picture, it didn't come off with the valve. Don't get any carb cleaner on the gasket.

sunshn1972
09-05-2005, 06:02 PM
5. Hold the EGR valvehorizontally and spray carb cleaner on the pinktle (see picture). I used a regular toothbrush to clean the pintle, but I had hardly any buildup.

sunshn1972
09-05-2005, 06:05 PM
6. Put it all back together inteh reverse order.

It was easier that I expected. Except for dropping the 10mm socket under the air filter and taking it off to get the socket back. Also, it would have been nice to have a deep well 10mm socket to get the bolt off that was under the bracket. I was able to do it with a standard socket, but not easily.

Let me know if I missed anything! :)

phile
02-22-2007, 11:51 PM
Thanks! My 1992 SL2 was running like goat manure. I took the EGR valve off and cleaned it. Runs perfect!

m.dolan
02-24-2007, 11:01 AM
sunshn1972 your timing on this topic for me was perfect, being a new member to this wonderful forum, I needed to ask about this same topic. your pics were just right. Am I right to assume that the soleniod and the valve are as one unit?

Phredawgy
02-25-2007, 12:42 AM
sunshn1972 your timing on this topic for me was perfect, being a new member to this wonderful forum, I needed to ask about this same topic. your pics were just right. Am I right to assume that the soleniod and the valve are as one unit?
If yours is identical to the pictures then that is your EGR valve...electronic instead of vacuumed :) I spent alot of time looking for the mushroomish EGR that the Haynes manual was showing(and that I have in a different vehicle)

JaeMarie
03-03-2007, 10:37 PM
I cleaned my EGR valve today. I wasn't having any problems, it was just preventive maintenance. My 98 SL2 is at almost 121,000 miles, and as far as I know the EGR valve has never been cleaned. I was surprised that there was almost no build up on it. A few sprays of carb cleaner and a toothbrush got it shining in just a few minutes.

So here's what I did, with pictures.

Thanks a million, fixed a P1404 by searching for it here. took me no time to find a FAQ. removed the intake on the 2000 sl2 to make it easier, probably not necessary though.

thank you autozone for pulling the code and saturnfans for posting a how-to; saved our family $150+. Much luv. :cool:

GlennCoco
09-06-2007, 12:10 PM
Besides a 10mm socket, do I need anything else for this?

Phredawgy
09-06-2007, 06:14 PM
Besides a 10mm socket, do I need anything else for this?

Couple rags, used toothbrush, carb cleaner and a new gasket.

If you start the vehicle with the EGR off without beginning the cleaning process it will be loud as hell but you'll get alot of gunk out of there before hand

David 93 SL2m
09-07-2007, 12:06 PM
...and a new gasket.Gaskets are not expensive and I recommend replacing them rather than reusing them.

GlennCoco
09-07-2007, 12:20 PM
OK, I have the thing off. It's bigger than I thought. Am I supposed to have taken the whole thing off? It's got a big round black thing on the top of it.

Also, I think I read somewhere else that you're supposed to make sure the pintle moves freely. How do I test that exactly?

rlhdghhmh
09-07-2007, 01:45 PM
are the instructions for the DOHC the same as the SOHC is it in the same place?

madpogue
09-07-2007, 03:45 PM
Glen, yes, the electronic EGR valve is pretty big. You can test the movement of the pintle by pushing on it GENTLY with a screwdriver tip or the like.

Rlhdg... (why didn't you buy a vowel?), the EGR valve is a little further back on the SOHC, on the intake manifold. But the directions are pretty-much the same. When you remove the air intake tube, you'll see it.

L100andSW2
09-09-2007, 06:18 PM
Just got in from following this procedure and smooth sailing. Mine had plenty of carbon crud to clean off. Maybe the first time it's been done in the SW2's 13 yrs, 139,000 miles.

Side note - the ECTS is below the EGR. With EGR set to the side, did the ECTS change procedure and its was easier since could see and reach around better. The old ECTS was plastic type and cracked, replaced with brass unit. Used this thread for instructions:

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24003

:yes:

duganator
09-11-2007, 08:41 PM
I hate to be that guy, but how do you know if you need to clean the egr?

saturnchap
09-23-2007, 11:40 AM
I guess mine is due!I've had it 5 years and never cleaned it.I guess that's why she's getting lazy in hills.:ugh:

Phredawgy
09-23-2007, 11:34 PM
I guess mine is due!I've had it 5 years and never cleaned it.I guess that's why she's getting lazy in hills.:ugh:

yeah a good cleaning of the throttlebody won't hurt either

LotusLord
09-24-2007, 09:59 AM
Anyone clean the throttle body and take pictures so I can see how to do it?

_alez_
09-25-2007, 06:06 PM
Thanks for the instructions, they made it very easy.

TW1
09-25-2007, 11:07 PM
This is great news I recently failed emissions and the guy said I needed a new EGR valve so now I know what must be done ,however i recently did a head job and now I have to put a quart of oil every week ,can anyone help or do I just change the motor?

MoparNut
10-02-2007, 12:22 AM
Thanks! My 1992 SL2 was running like goat manure. I took the EGR valve off and cleaned it. Runs perfect!


Q: How, exactly, does goat manure run?

A: Poopy. :D

DrPimper
10-06-2007, 09:52 AM
oh man thanks allot for posting on this subject. I was watching my favorite TV show since 1984, MOTORWEEK and they were suggesting to clean the EGR on older cars to keep on top of fuel economey. They were generalizing all cars, but said that most cars and kinda complex and they should be cleaned professionaly, screw that, I have less of a chance of screwing this up than some punk kid paid to wrench on cars.


Thanks again
Erik
drerikpimper@yahoo.com
www.myspace.com/drpimper

David 93 SL2m
10-06-2007, 12:17 PM
oh man thanks allot for posting on this subject. I was watching my favorite TV show since 1984, MOTORWEEK and they were suggesting to clean the EGR on older cars to keep on top of fuel economey. They were generalizing all cars, but said that most cars and kinda complex and they should be cleaned professionaly, screw that, I have less of a chance of screwing this up than some punk kid paid to wrench on cars.Here is the transcript:

http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/goss/2633.shtml
Hot Flush
Pat Goss

It seems a lot of the preventative maintenance on automobiles these days involves keeping things clean. Now a prime example of that is the E.G.R. system.

E.G.R. stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation, and what it does is, it takes exhaust as it leaves the engine and recirculates it back into the cylinders to reduce the burning temperature of the fuel and air mix in each cylinder. The reason for that is if the fuel burns too hot the emissions go up and the fuel economy goes down, so this has to be done on a regular basis.

If we look at an E.G.R. valve off of a new Honda, for example, we would see that the passages are clean and unobstructed. But when you look at an older E.G.R. valve - one that hasn't been maintained with a passage that is completely blocked - that would have a significant effect on both emissions and fuel economy. So how do you prevent it?

About every 30,000 miles or so you look for an E.G.R. cleaning service. It uses a canister like we see here, and in that canister are some extremely strong chemicals that are fed into the E.G.R. system to clean away the cooked on carbon and everything that's in the passages. There are special adaptors for the different makes and models of vehicles, and it does an exceptionally good job.
http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/images/goss/26/2633_goss_1.jpg

The next thing that we need to keep clean is the transmission cooler. This is especially important following the failure of an automatic transmission. When that transmission fails, it fills the oiling system full of little bits of debris, and that can get trapped up inside the transmission cooler. There is no way to get that out except with a tool like this Hot Flush machine.

The Hot Flush machine uses a heated chemical that gets circulated in and then back, in and back. Through a process of going through this continuously for an extended period of time, it removes all of the debris out of the transmission cooler. That means you don't have repeated failures due to debris that has collected in the cooler and then moves back into your new transmission. If you need transmission work, this is the tool you should look for!
http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/images/goss/26/2633_goss_2.jpg

ttreibel
10-08-2007, 04:24 PM
If you do the throttle body at the same time you can blast compressed air through the egr tubes and really clean out the system. Be warned you get soot in the air you should probably wear safety glasses too. Add some new plugs into the car at the same time and you will think you have a new ride.

tfphoenix
02-01-2008, 11:41 AM
Thanks for the tour. Got a p1404 and a p1406 on my girlfriends car hopefully this will fix them :)

Critik
02-16-2008, 10:45 PM
I just cleaned my throttle body and EGR valve today, as it was getting stuck open and throwing an SES light.

The pintle on mine became completely stuck the first time I depressed it, and spraying carb cleaner had no effect. I was horrified as I needed my car later that day for something. Finally I figured out that I could tap (hard but not too hard) the bottom of the valve (the one with the ports) with a screwdriver and it would pop back out again.

The engine idled real high and generally just acted funky after I did it (which may also be because of the throttle body being cleaned), but it eventually settled down after driving it some time. The SES light stayed on for awhile, but it eventually went off.

Very easy repair. Takes maybe 10 minutes if everything goes right. Thanks for the writeup!

bboynowee
02-17-2008, 12:19 AM
This is great news I recently failed emissions and the guy said I needed a new EGR valve so now I know what must be done ,however i recently did a head job and now I have to put a quart of oil every week ,can anyone help or do I just change the motor?

Hey I also failed the smog test...they guy at the smog place said that it may be my EGR...if i clean my EGR would I pass smog? And should I go for his advice?

Viperoni
02-25-2008, 09:40 AM
I guess mine is due!I've had it 5 years and never cleaned it.I guess that's why she's getting lazy in hills.:ugh:

Unless the EGR valve is sticking open, it's not your performance problem.
You would know if it was sticking open.

RocketmanVT
03-21-2008, 03:32 PM
Sunshn1972,
Thanks for the post - I cleaned the pintle on MY EGR, and the thing works fine, now! Not to mention that the SES light went out...
I was given to believe that the EGR could not been worked on, that it could only be replaced - this was told to me by a Saturn dealer (hmmm...You don't suppose he was only trying to sell me an expensive part, do you?):hothead:

Again, thanks alot for the post - looks like it'll be in my best interests to scour this site...I ned the kind of info you folks offer! (And the price is right, too!!!:D)

SlipKid
06-09-2008, 05:37 PM
Speaking of cleaning EGR valves, I got a code on my 02 SC2 saying the EGR valve wan't working. I disassembled and like you it was as clean as a whistle. I checked the pneumatic valve and the blower motor, all components work fine manually but I have never seen the blower motor run or the valve actuate on its' own accord. What gives? Something in the electronics being fooled? Could the O2 sensor be triggeriing the code?

tenn734
06-13-2008, 11:50 PM
where can i pick up an egr gasket besides the dealer? does autozone carry them? whats the size/shape? thanks

David 93 SL2m
06-14-2008, 11:34 AM
where can i pick up an egr gasket besides the dealer? does autozone carry them? whats the size/shape? thanksProbably AutoZone will have the gaskets. So will most other car parts stores. Tell them the year and model of your Saturn. They might ask which engine (DOHC or SOHC) or they might ask for the VIN to see the engine code. The price should be only a couple of dollars. Don't let it bend. Compare the new gasket to the old gasket before installing. I don't think it matters which side of the gasket faces up.

David 93 SL2m
06-15-2008, 08:47 AM
At AutoZone (http://www.autozone.com/home.htm) the part number for the EGR gasket for a 1999 Saturn SL2 is 70789. Do a product search for part number 70789 and you'll see it. For my ZIP code the price is $1.09.

http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,70789/shopping/allResults.htm

goSL2go
07-17-2008, 12:01 AM
Thanks for the pictures. It definitely prepared me for the extraction.

I got an error code of P0404 recently and autozone confirmed that it was a pintle position error. I bought the gasket and some WD40 and the autozone guy told me to run sea foam through the gas tank and engine when I was done with the EGR Valve cleaning. He said it was to help get the gunk out of my intake. I've never used that stuff before, what do you guys think? Should I do it? will it hurt? Or should I return the sea foam?

I removed the EGR Valve today and it was really simple as long as you have a deep socket for the screws. I didn't have to remove anything around the EGR valve as the intake and the rubber hose connecting the intake with the head case was flexible enough to get the EGR valve through.

So the pintle didn't look that dirty. Yes it was covered with soot, but the valve opened and closed quite easily. I appears to close all the way and there was no trouble with the travel. I used WD40 and brushed it with a toothbrush. What else should I do to clean it? Should the thing be really squeaky clean? Hopefully it's not broken and this "cleaning" will take care of my error code.

I'm capable of doing engine work, I'm just not experienced. I've taken apart lawn mower engines and rebuilt them to spec before and yes they started up and ran fine afterwards. :p

Any words of wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks!

Phredawgy
07-17-2008, 03:09 PM
Thanks for the pictures. It definitely prepared me for the extraction.

I got an error code of P0404 recently and autozone confirmed that it was a pintle position error. I bought the gasket and some WD40 and the autozone guy told me to run sea foam through the gas tank and engine when I was done with the EGR Valve cleaning. He said it was to help get the gunk out of my intake. I've never used that stuff before, what do you guys think? Should I do it? will it hurt? Or should I return the sea foam?

I removed the EGR Valve today and it was really simple as long as you have a deep socket for the screws. I didn't have to remove anything around the EGR valve as the intake and the rubber hose connecting the intake with the head case was flexible enough to get the EGR valve through.

So the pintle didn't look that dirty. Yes it was covered with soot, but the valve opened and closed quite easily. I appears to close all the way and there was no trouble with the travel. I used WD40 and brushed it with a toothbrush. What else should I do to clean it? Should the thing be really squeaky clean? Hopefully it's not broken and this "cleaning" will take care of my error code.

I'm capable of doing engine work, I'm just not experienced. I've taken apart lawn mower engines and rebuilt them to spec before and yes they started up and ran fine afterwards. :p

Any words of wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks!


Many people here have used seafoam in various ways so you're ok there. I've put it in the gas tank and run it through the hose that comes off the pcv valve and goes into the intake...both with success....the pcv hose method probably cleans the intake a bit better than running it through your tank...do a search if you feel froggy enough to try. I don't know about WD40 but I have used SeaFoam deep creep to clean my EGR and it worked.....get it as clean as you can.....run the engine briefly to knock any crap out of the EGR ports on the engine...clean it real good in there with some seafoam and you should be ok. You'll get an SES code that should go away once you put the valve back on.

Carl26
07-21-2008, 07:46 PM
I just cleaned my EGR valve and throttle body today with carb cleaner. My SC2 has 105k on it and I'm not sure if it was ever done before since I just bought it. There wasn't too much build-up in the ports. Everything went smoothly except that the Napa gasket was made wrong. The big hole and small hole were reversed. If I flipped it over then the bolt holes wouldn't line up. So I ended up reusing the original gasket.

Also I forgot to re-attach the electrical connector to the valve before I started the engine and it had a hard time starting. The Service Engine Soon light came on. I stopped the engine, re-attached the wiring and the engine fired right up the next time I tried to start it. I drove the car around for about 10 minutes and the SES light is still on. The car doesn't drive any differently - better or worse - than it did before I cleaned the valve and throttle body.

I'm going to read and clear the code tomorrow. I'm not sure what caused the SES light to come on. I read in the Haynes manual that the EGR valve should not be cleaned with solvents or degreaser because "both agents will permanently damage the diaphragm." I hope this is not the case with mine.

Phredawgy
07-22-2008, 12:50 AM
I just cleaned my EGR valve and throttle body today with carb cleaner. My SC2 has 105k on it and I'm not sure if it was ever done before since I just bought it. There wasn't too much build-up in the ports. Everything went smoothly except that the Napa gasket was made wrong. The big hole and small hole were reversed. If I flipped it over then the bolt holes wouldn't line up. So I ended up reusing the original gasket..
Shouldn't be a problem as long as you got the mounting surface and valve surface nice and clean...and the original gasket was in good shape.
Also I forgot to re-attach the electrical connector to the valve before I started the engine and it had a hard time starting. The Service Engine Soon light came on. I stopped the engine, re-attached the wiring and the engine fired right up the next time I tried to start it. I drove the car around for about 10 minutes and the SES light is still on. The car doesn't drive any differently - better or worse - than it did before I cleaned the valve and throttle body.

I'm going to read and clear the code tomorrow. I'm not sure what caused the SES light to come on. I read in the Haynes manual that the EGR valve should not be cleaned with solvents or degreaser because "both agents will permanently damage the diaphragm." I hope this is not the case with mine.

The SES light came on because you started the car with the EGR valve Unplugged....I've had this happen to me and the SES light went away the next day....but it can't hurt to read the code anyway in case there is more than one....

I've used Carb cleaner before with no ill effects......unless you soaked it in it I'm betting your SES light is because of starting the vehicle with the valve unplugged.....

Just a question here....but did you read the manual about not using solvents like Carb Cleaner before or after you did the cleaning? :p

Carl26
07-22-2008, 06:36 AM
Just a question here....but did you read the manual about not using solvents like Carb Cleaner before or after you did the cleaning? :p

Ha ha! You're good. I read it after I did the cleaning. :)

Carl26
07-22-2008, 09:47 AM
Well I started the car this morning and the SES light went off. It ran fine on the way to work this morning. So no problems for the time being.

Phredawgy
07-22-2008, 02:41 PM
Well I started the car this morning and the SES light went off. It ran fine on the way to work this morning. So no problems for the time being.

This is one of the few times where saying "I told you so" isn't a bad thing to anyone......:dizzy:

JFoy
08-25-2008, 06:28 PM
2002 SC2, steps the same except you do not need to remove the bracket before taking off the EGR valve

Phredawgy
08-26-2008, 11:55 AM
2002 SC2, steps the same except you do not need to remove the bracket before taking off the EGR valve

I never take the bracket on my 96 off either.

OU812
08-30-2008, 02:26 PM
6. Put it all back together inteh reverse order.

It was easier that I expected. Except for dropping the 10mm socket under the air filter and taking it off to get the socket back. Also, it would have been nice to have a deep well 10mm socket to get the bolt off that was under the bracket. I was able to do it with a standard socket, but not easily.

Let me know if I missed anything! :)

I couldnt get it off, gonna have to get a deep well socket.

Phredawgy
08-31-2008, 04:45 AM
I couldnt get it off, gonna have to get a deep well socket.

I wouldn't even try removing my valve without a deep well socket.....but like I said I don't have to get my bracket off to remove the valve...so I guess I am lucky

HaroldJohnson
09-08-2008, 11:59 PM
I wouldn't even try removing my valve without a deep well socket.....but like I said I don't have to get my bracket off to remove the valve...so I guess I am lucky

:?:

I soaked mine in Sea Foam today. Not "soaked" as in "placed it in a bowl full sea foam", but pretty much used half a can of sea foam trying to get my EGR clean. The other half I put into my gas tank.

That EGR was filthy. Black, full of carbon. Looked sticky.

I started up the car with the EGR off after pouring some Sea Foam in those holes (where the bolts go) and cleaning as much as I could with the toothbrushes (yes, toothbrushes -- it took two, and I still don't know if it's truly clean), then I turned the ignition key...whoa, there was alot of smoke! Is that from the Sea Foam or does it always blow alot of smoke? (If you think it's the Sea Foam, is that a good thing or a bad thing, or somewhere in between?) I only ran it for a short period of time; should I run it longer, to see if the smoke will burn off?

I'm going to let it fully dry overnight and then tomorrow I'll attack it some more with a fresh toothbrush (and probably no more Sea Foam) and then put a new gasket on and tighten the EGR down. Sound good?

JOBO
09-09-2008, 12:58 AM
Wow I'm so glad I found this website! I have a 1997 SL w/ 155,000 mi. I too got a P0404 reading today at Checker and I have to have my car emission tested this month so I panicked. Tonight I took the valve off easy enough - but my question is do I actually put the carb cleaner into the two holes at the base? Then do I scrub out the carbon?
Also - how do I get the gasket off?
Thanks!!

kknobl
09-09-2008, 07:29 AM
I'm looking to clean the EGR on my 93 SL2...

The EGR in my car is different from the ones in the pictures, however, I presume that the procedure is largely the same.

I was going to use carb cleaner for the cleaning - anyone have any bad effects from this? If so, any recommendations on what I should use instead?

I'm guessing that my EGR has never been touched, as the bolts are rusty, so I'm sure they're going to be a lot of fun to try to loosen. Any suggestions for that?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Phredawgy
09-09-2008, 12:52 PM
:?:

I soaked mine in Sea Foam today. Not "soaked" as in "placed it in a bowl full sea foam", but pretty much used half a can of sea foam trying to get my EGR clean. The other half I put into my gas tank.

That EGR was filthy. Black, full of carbon. Looked sticky.

I started up the car with the EGR off after pouring some Sea Foam in those holes (where the bolts go) and cleaning as much as I could with the toothbrushes (yes, toothbrushes -- it took two, and I still don't know if it's truly clean), then I turned the ignition key...whoa, there was alot of smoke! Is that from the Sea Foam or does it always blow alot of smoke? (If you think it's the Sea Foam, is that a good thing or a bad thing, or somewhere in between?) I only ran it for a short period of time; should I run it longer, to see if the smoke will burn off?

I'm going to let it fully dry overnight and then tomorrow I'll attack it some more with a fresh toothbrush (and probably no more Sea Foam) and then put a new gasket on and tighten the EGR down. Sound good?
Sounds good, If you started the car without the EGR and saw alot of smoke,crud getting blown out that's fairly normal....if there's seafoam still in the ports that'll do it too....sounds good so far...you should be ok....

You should see the amount of smoke when you introduce seafoam through the pcv hose while the engine is running!

Phredawgy
09-09-2008, 12:55 PM
I'm looking to clean the EGR on my 93 SL2...

The EGR in my car is different from the ones in the pictures, however, I presume that the procedure is largely the same.

I was going to use carb cleaner for the cleaning - anyone have any bad effects from this? If so, any recommendations on what I should use instead?

I'm guessing that my EGR has never been touched, as the bolts are rusty, so I'm sure they're going to be a lot of fun to try to loosen. Any suggestions for that?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Yours looks different because it's probably the vacuum operated one. Use PB Blaster for the bolts...or SeaFoam deep creep ....

If you use the sea foam deep creep you can use that to clean the EGR....or regular sea foam....some have used carb cleaner and not suffered

JOBO
09-09-2008, 01:11 PM
DONE!! You guys turned a $200 + job into a $5.00 job! I'm taking it to get emission tested today so I hope there are no other issues.
All the best.

HaroldJohnson
09-09-2008, 02:33 PM
Yours looks different because it's probably the vacuum operated one. Use PB Blaster for the bolts...or SeaFoam deep creep ....

WD-40 may also work for that. I think you just spray or pour some on, let it settle in a few minutes, and then try your ratchet or wrench on it. (That's the way to do it, right?)

Phredawgy
09-09-2008, 05:17 PM
WD-40 may also work for that. I think you just spray or pour some on, let it settle in a few minutes, and then try your ratchet or wrench on it. (That's the way to do it, right?)
I like to wipe the crud off then try with the tool but yeah that's pretty much it...if it doesn't work try it again

annedeslongcham
09-11-2008, 05:55 PM
thanks any way but it didn't work on my egr valve. engine light came right back on

kknobl
09-12-2008, 07:52 AM
WD-40 may also work for that. I think you just spray or pour some on, let it settle in a few minutes, and then try your ratchet or wrench on it. (That's the way to do it, right?)

I have some penetrating oil - would that work on the rusted bolts as well?

HaroldJohnson
09-12-2008, 03:55 PM
I have some penetrating oil - would that work on the rusted bolts as well?

Yes, that should work. I just ran a quick search and it appears that WD-40 is, in fact, a penetrating oil -- and that penetrating oils are commonly used to loosen rusty bolts.

Phredawgy
09-13-2008, 10:47 PM
thanks any way but it didn't work on my egr valve. engine light came right back on

your getting an egr code?

annedeslongcham
09-14-2008, 09:40 AM
Yes I am getting a egr code. I brang it to the shop for the engine light being on and it can back that it is the egr valve.

Phredawgy
09-14-2008, 01:22 PM
Yes I am getting a egr code. I brang it to the shop for the engine light being on and it can back that it is the egr valve.

What is the code? P???? (Description)

David 93 SL2m
09-14-2008, 02:47 PM
How-To Questions and Forum Issues (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60788)Attention: If you have questions about "how-to" do something that's not already explained this forum, please post your question in your car's respective forum:


ION Tech (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=37)
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Relay Tech (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=38)
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Answers to your how-to type questions will be moved into this forum if appropriate.

Update: The on-going "new thread" issues in the "How-To" forum for the past few months have been resolved. All new threads that are created will now be placed in an administrator queue awaiting for posting approval. I will be notified anytime a new thread is posted, and will be receive an email from the system alerting me of new posts. I will approve posts generally within 24 hours.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks for your cooperation!
Charlie

d_rock
02-27-2009, 05:33 PM
Just want to add something about cleaning the pintle.

I've cleaned the EGV valve many times on my SL2 and SW2, I do it as a routine maintenance a few times a year, actually.

What I do is:

First spray the inside with carb cleaner, and use a wire brush to scrape the deposits off the tip of the pintle.

Then, I use the corresponding sized torx bit to turn the pintle counter-clockwise and clockwise...at the same time, I am pushing it in to its recess. At first it will keep getting stuck when you push it in, so I gently tap the valve until the pintle pops back up.

I will keep doing this process of turning the pintle and pushing it in until it cleanly pops back out on its own and doesn't get stuck.

I have done this many times and have never had an EGR-related trouble code.

Jimbo Dude
03-08-2009, 06:00 AM
Thank you everyone! 1st time visiting the site and hit a home run. Daughters96 SL1- little money - intermittent SES - free code read - EGR fault - I never heard of the thing before so obviously never touched it - phone call with Dad Help! $300 estimates from four places to R&R. i bought one at the Zone for $98 plus $1.26 gasket. Cleaned the old one as several from this forum suggested, spent 20 mins total job, final cost $1.26. Now that's what I'm talking about!! A big $300 thank you to all...

KSabo
03-16-2009, 11:56 AM
Just wanted to thank everyone here for giving me my SC2 back. My poor SC2 was hurting -- poor power and acceleration, and the gas mileage had dropped off from 30mpg to 22mpg in a matter of months.

Cleaning the EGR valve gave me my car back! THANK YOU! :yes:


Now if I can just get up the guts to try what d_rock suggests....


-Kristin

Vision
03-20-2009, 06:58 PM
Another thank you post. You saved me hundreds.

Lenny_ViDiViCi
04-13-2009, 05:23 PM
Decided to do this today and it almost turned into a disaster. On my 93 SC2 The nuts were 13mm. What went awry was the vacuum tube from the t/b breaking. It was still long enough to reconnect after I was done though. :) Off to the smog test :)

saturno1999
04-19-2009, 11:31 PM
Thanks a lot, I cleaned mine and it was dirty enough!
I used a deep well 10mm socket and an extension so it was pretty easy to get the nuts out and assemble it all back.

My saturn always had oil burning/lots of smoke emissions, i never really cared, but yesterday it started to have serious troubles, the engine was quitting on idle or low rpms, needed to drive with both feet to keep rpm high while stopping at a traffic light! :) I took it to the auto zone and the diagnosys was faulty egr valve and also something about air pump, so i decided to clean the EGR like you explained and it works way better now. Great pictures and step-by-step, Thanks a lot!!

My saturn also burns a lot of oil so i bought an oil additive that apparently "seals the gaps and reduce oil burn and smoke".
For now, its doing the job.


6. Put it all back together inteh reverse order.

It was easier that I expected. Except for dropping the 10mm socket under the air filter and taking it off to get the socket back. Also, it would have been nice to have a deep well 10mm socket to get the bolt off that was under the bracket. I was able to do it with a standard socket, but not easily.

Let me know if I missed anything! :)

bdobraj
04-23-2009, 05:23 PM
how long can/should i leave the car running with the EGR valve off? should i leave it off and let it run for a while after i spray carb cleaner in it?

dmrispoli
05-01-2009, 08:40 AM
Good info in the post, thanks. Can it really be two years since anyone got enough out of this thread to post???

And a question - I bought the gasket at Napa and while talking to the guy he said carb cleaner could be harmful to some of the parts so I should use throttle body cleaner. Anyone know if/why he is right/wrong? Thanks

dmrispoli
05-01-2009, 08:47 AM
My saturn also burns a lot of oil so i bought an oil additive that apparently "seals the gaps and reduce oil burn and smoke".
For now, its doing the job.



See the how-to thread for the mmo treatment....... I had better results the 2nd time I did it - I got my '99 SL2 on the cheap b/c it was burning 1 qt/300 miles. First mmo cut that to 500 miles, 2nd mmo to 1 qt every thousand.

And I answered my own question....... 4 pages of threads! Never drive drunk and never post tired.

Seņor Ramos
05-13-2009, 09:47 PM
So I cleaned out my throttle body and EGR valve today. Well, I wanted to clean the EGR valve, but it didn't have much buildup on it, and it moved extremely easily. Hardly any pressure needed to move it with my pinkie. After reinstalling everything, I turned the car on. It hung at 2k RPM for a few seconds then leveled out. The idle was very very smooth, and it picked up quite a bit quickly. I felt a tiny bit of Gs lol. I love this forum.

TeacherHolly
05-25-2009, 01:09 AM
So any thoughts on an inexperienced female taking on this job? I'm a relatively handy person around the house and friends call me macguyver but I have never tried my hand at auto mechanics. My check engine light came on and I took it to the auto parts store to have it tested. The code was for a closed egr valve. I suspected itwas the egr valve before I took it in as I had experienced this my previous '94 Saturn. I was dating a mechanic at the time so he did the removal and cleaning for me. I'm currently on my own and am thinking about tackling this job myself on my '99 Saturn sl2 manual dohc as it is seriously hurting my gas milage. Any thoughts?! Thanks.

edlee
05-25-2009, 02:42 AM
I recommend that you remove the battery to gain easy access to the EGR valve, as Richpin shows in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MUUY2EE38c

You need a 10mm wrench. You need an 8mm wrench to remove the battery terminals. You need the 10mm wrench again to remove the EGR valve bolts:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YRq2Xl58Oo

You don't need to use the soda can that Richpin shows in his video if you just want to clean the EGR valve. Another person has reported a structural failure of the soda can gasket, so he has pieces of shredded aluminum in his engine now.

tenn734
05-25-2009, 02:46 AM
edit: oops i see someone beat me to the punch with richpin's video links. ha!

i'll just add that i didnt need to take the battery out when i did my 99 sl2 and
a torque wrench for tightening the bolts is advisable. torque spec for the egr bolts is 19 ft-lbs.

needle style torque wrenches can be had for about $10 and ensure you tighten the bolts down enough without breaking anything. good luck and the key is preparation.

oh and a socket extension may make it easier to access the bolts, and don't do it on a hot engine for safety sake.

edlee
05-25-2009, 03:06 AM
Removing the battery makes it easier to access the EGR valve. I find it easier to remove the battery than to remove the air intake.

bryme
07-02-2009, 05:44 AM
My 98 SL2 was bucking and sputtering when I would accelerate with low RPM's. After doing common tune up's (fuel injectors, spark plugs, etc.) I looked into this site.
I found out about the ECTS. I changed it, but problem persisted.
I found out about this thing called an EGR. I fixed that too, which fixed the problem.

Taking the EGR off is very simple. I had so much built up carbon that it is no wonder it wasn't working. The pilet was barely moving and getting stuck when it did. I scraped all the carbon out of the EGR and the holes. Sprayed carb cleaner and PB blaster and cleaned some more. Putting it back together was just as easy. Car works great now.

Job took a total of 30 minutes, tops. :yes:

sdowney717
07-05-2009, 04:10 PM
i restored my bad EGR valve with sticking valve etc...
I had used solvents but problem would keep coming back in a month.
finally, I thought maybe the shaft clearance was too tight causing a bind on the smallest amount of dirt. SO, i made a slurry of equate toothpaste, (use toothpaste with grit not gel), filled up the cavity, took a power drill and torx bit and spun that valve around till it was good and free. I have not had to do anything to it for about a year now.

My gasket eventually wore out so I just used some silicone gasket maker for the gasket. I whacked out all the slippery soft graphitic stuff out of the metal gasket and smeared some silcone into it.

DrGonzo
07-10-2009, 07:23 PM
I just did this on my 00 SL1 with 135k miles and man oh man was that thing full of gunk and carbon! I used a toothbrush, half a can of carb cleaner, and several little trays of lacquer thinner and it was still dirty, but WAY better than before. the valve itself would hardly budge before, but now moves quite easily. I also used a torx bit to move it around (by hand) and everything seems to running smoothly. Thanks for the great how-to!

97SC2-5SPEED
07-30-2009, 12:16 PM
I just did this to my 97 SC2. I took off the valve and sprayed a good amount of carb cleaner in the ports and replaced the EGR valve. But when I started it up it idled at around 2500 rpm and when i drove it for about 20 minutes the idle speed finally went down to its normal rpm around 800-900 but it idled very rough. I didn't replace the gasket, could this be my problem?

Thanks in advance for the help

envoid
07-31-2009, 12:15 PM
Thanks for the writeup sunshn1972!

Had thought about cleaning it on my wife's SC1 but after your posts showing where it was i spent only about an hour taking it out, cleaning it, and putting it back in. At first I did notice the torx head was sticking in the breather hole a bit, but after some scraping of the encrusted stuff it no longer sticks. It wasn't too dirty overall but seems to have made the idle a little smoother than before.

Labradoofis
08-15-2009, 01:50 AM
Ok today was good.

Did a "full tuneup" Had my brother in Chicago get a tb gasket.
I replaced the following:
pcv valve
plugs
wires
fuel filter<--------that was fun
egr gasket
TB gasket
ECTS<-------It was brass already but still changed it.
Air Filter
Oil Change
I cleaned the egr valve, iac, and cleaned the throttle body. The throttle body was completely gunked up.
So all in all it was good. She idles smoothly, no more hesitating at stop lights or stop signs. The only problem I have now it make a noise when you put in reverse or drive so I kinda thinking it might be the idler pulley making noise. I know it needs some motor mounts though. That will be next. Just wanted to say thanks to this forum.
Thanks all.
Brian
1997 Saturn SL2

jimpennjr
09-23-2009, 04:00 PM
Just cleaned mine. It sure was carboned up. The gasket was still good, so I reused it. It took about 10 minutes. Hopefully it will clear my code P1406. Will respond if does or doesn't. Thanks to the OP for posting.:D

jackbenimble
09-28-2009, 08:21 PM
Dear God, I thought my car was a goner the way it was acting. Thanks so much for this post!

mostlyvw
10-20-2009, 05:15 PM
Very helpful. Had mine out in about 5 minutes, spent about 20 cleaning off an ungodly amount of carbon, and scraping off the disintegrated gasket. For those with excessive buildup like mine had, pressing the valve down while using a small screwdriver to scrape the edges of the hole will allow the valve to seat fully again and move freely- mine was stuck in place when I started.

lveliz
11-18-2009, 09:55 PM
:):usa::us: Hey fellow saturn owners!! Thanks so much for the advise! I drive a 1997 Saturn SL1 with 138,000 miles, and just last week I got the "check engine soon" light (P1404).. turned out to be an EGR valve problem. The local Autozone sells this valve for 89.00 bucks....had I not read this forum I would've bought the part and spent more! It all took me little more than an hour and my satty runs like new!!! :):):):):) Total spent: $10 bucks, new gasket included.. what a deal!

megsaturn
11-25-2009, 01:25 PM
My gearhead friend just told me that if I cleaned, not replaced, the egr that I was an idiot and my car was going to die. Why did he say this???

David 93 SL2m
11-26-2009, 12:19 PM
My gearhead friend just told me that if I cleaned, not replaced, the egr that I was an idiot and my car was going to die. Why did he say this???I'd guess your gearhead friend inferred that you'd be cleaning the dirt from outer shell of the EGR valve, rather than cleaning off the carbon build-up from the holes on the underside as well as around the area where the movable thing ("pintle?") is located.

Cyprus
12-13-2009, 11:04 AM
:DSaturnfans.com to the rescue once again!:D

After a sudden bout of crappy gas mileage my SES came on last week. Autozone told me I needed to replace my EGR valve (about $90) after receiving a P0404 code. Found this forum, followed the directions, and solved the problem.

This was the first time I'd ever had a problem with the EGR valve, which is the original at 204,000 miles (never cleaned) on my 96 SW1! It was massively dirty though. The pintle was stuck shut as well. The SES light remained on after a few starts and a little driving, but went out later in the day. Replaced the plugs, wires, and PCV valve as all needed replacing. Runs great! :)

Will be interesting to see if my mileage goes back up.

sk8ter161
12-17-2009, 04:02 AM
My EGR was badly carboned and the pintle was stuck--I cleaned it and it works better but still seems to stick--idle is high,then settles @800rpm's,but,at stops the idle slowly drops to 800,and sometimes almost stalls.The pintle takes some force to depress and returns slowly--could this be holding my idle high? When I depress the pintle and block the intake it holds vacuum so i assume that the diaphram is intact.I don't have electical tools to test the EGR solenoid--could this be faulty,or should I try cleaning the valve better/replace it?

mjoekingz28
12-22-2009, 01:51 PM
Hey, I was getting some stumbling/sputtering from 2500-3000 rpms and someone suggested I clean my EGR. Well, I did today. Reused the old gasket (so I wasted $1.69 oh well). It looked okay and didn't come off easily when I barely pulled on it and didn't want to spend the day scraping it off. Anyway, I started it while apart for 2-3 seconds and let it hit the rev limiter a few times (after taking it for a 10 minute drive to warm up).

I did not spray any in the two holes, only on the torx screw pintle and the other hole and made sure to let it all drain out afterwards. I got the toothbrush out and cleaned the torx head, then depressed it with a torx screwdriver and turned it while spraying and it turned and depressed more easily than expected. No hard carbon to be found, no scraping required but I was ready with a dental pick and even tried it but didn't get anything with it since the build-up was so minor. Pulled the ECM B fuse then put everything back together.

Took it on a 20 minute cruise and tried to duplicate the stumbling and it didn't happen, but the true test will be tomorrow when I go on a long ride with hills that I take while in the 2.5-3k range. The problem never happened while cold, so tomorrow I'll see and if I still get problems I'll edit this to let ya'll know and I'll continue hunting down the problem.

thanks

JOE PA
12-27-2009, 04:05 PM
I did the cleaning with my car-nut 15 yr. old "helping" so he can see what to do in the future. I did the torx procedure that d_rock suggested on page 4. It was a good thing I did. I don't think I could have accomplished all that much without doing that step. When I did push the pintle down cautiously, it did stick for a few seconds, then popped up. I pushed it down harder the second time, and it stuck down until I could completely clean the hole where it is supposed to seat when closed. When I twisted it to pop it back up, I had some carb cleaner in the valve, and it freed up the pintle, as I was able to push it down several times and it would no longer stick. The whole thing took less than 20 min. and I was very careful with the process. To those who are going to do this, I would strongly suggest using the torx head screwdriver to help completely clean the valve and pintle. Good luck, and thanks to all who posted this.:D

mjoekingz28
12-27-2009, 07:33 PM
Another word of caution. Mine moves freely but I was going to clean around the pintle so there would be no problems. Well, my toothbrush lost a few bristles cleaning the rim of the pintle hole. I had to open the pintle and pull em out with needle-nose pliers.

The hesitation is gone for the most part, but I decided to try it again and am getting an engine light now, since I ran it for a few seconds w/o the valve installed.

btw, 2-3 seconds w/o the valve didn't cause an engine light, but 5-10 did. fyi

JOE PA
12-29-2009, 12:25 AM
Just reporting in on my results. Did the cleaning yesterday. This car will be going to one of my 19 yr. old twins (both will have a '97 Saturn now) and we were all over looking for a car for us to replace it. The '97 ran flawlessly today :D and the car we found to replace it was a 2003 Ion. Really liked the way it drove.:)

David 93 SL2m
12-29-2009, 02:53 PM
I think it is great that so many people with Saturn S-Series are able to follow this procedure and get a good outcome with just a little time and not much money. :cake:

mjoekingz28
01-10-2010, 06:05 AM
Hey, I was getting some stumbling/sputtering from 2500-3000 rpms and someone suggested I clean my EGR. Well, I did today. Reused the old gasket (so I wasted $1.69 oh well). It looked okay and didn't come off easily when I barely pulled on it and didn't want to spend the day scraping it off. Anyway, I started it while apart for 2-3 seconds and let it hit the rev limiter a few times (after taking it for a 10 minute drive to warm up).

I did not spray any in the two holes, only on the torx screw pintle and the other hole and made sure to let it all drain out afterwards. I got the toothbrush out and cleaned the torx head, then depressed it with a torx screwdriver and turned it while spraying and it turned and depressed more easily than expected. No hard carbon to be found, no scraping required but I was ready with a dental pick and even tried it but didn't get anything with it since the build-up was so minor. Pulled the ECM B fuse then put everything back together.

Took it on a 20 minute cruise and tried to duplicate the stumbling and it didn't happen, but the true test will be tomorrow when I go on a long ride with hills that I take while in the 2.5-3k range. The problem never happened while cold, so tomorrow I'll see and if I still get problems I'll edit this to let ya'll know and I'll continue hunting down the problem.

thanks


WELL, the stumbling and hesitation came back after I got the car good and hot. It feels like the car just can't accelerate in teh 2.5-3k range. I just put in a purolator pcv valve and the problem went away, although I haven't got it good and warm yet, I put the old one back in and got a sloppy pull from 2-3k going down the street in 2nd or 3rd gear....put the new Purolator unit and tried a duplicate pull and it pulls so cleanly and strong now.

Worth a try at under $2, but the rpms will take longer to drop when coming to a stop. Worth it to me anyway.

bytehd
02-14-2010, 09:26 PM
I am confused about a few things before I do this:

1) Using Carb Cleaner or Throttle Body Cleaner on the EGR.

2) Starting the engine the first time with the EGR valve off or not.

3) Does the code reset itself after a while or manually with the ECM B fuse?

4) If I do this, im going to post better pictures.

thanks in advance.

bytehd
02-17-2010, 06:33 PM
2001 SL2 DOHC.

I Found a can of Carb/TB cleaner...in the same can.
Had to clean it twice.
Code came back after first day driving around.
Code went away after second cleaning, used toothbrushes.
Worked fine.
10mm Kobalt socket with extention from Lowes.
Bracket did NOT need to be moved, nor the battery.
Saved $75 diagnostic fee and other non-needed parts from
local wrench (Firestone Dealer).
Thanks Saturnfans!

Now next problem, why cant the car rev past 4k at all?

bytehd
02-24-2010, 12:36 AM
Code came back plus 341 camshaft sensor
oh joy

ive cleaned this thing 5 times.

time for a new part?

advance and zone dont carry it anymore per local dealers
pep boys and napa have it for $158

should I spring for it?

mileage is down to 25 from 32

MikeB 30
04-12-2010, 09:30 AM
I too got the P0404 Pintle Position error, mechanic wanted 240 dollars to replace, so Saturday I took twenty minutes and did the EGR cleaning procedure. The pintle was stuck closed, took quite a bit of force and a lot of cleaning to get it to open the first time. Kept cleaning and scrubbing until it moved freely and re-installed with the new gasket. Seems to be running better. Thanks for the great write up!!!

Seldom Home
04-12-2010, 08:39 PM
5. Hold the EGR valvehorizontally and spray carb cleaner on the pinktle (see picture). I used a regular toothbrush to clean the pintle, but I had hardly any buildup.

How far is the pintle supposed to move. Is the position in the photo open? closed? Does it move in or out from this position?

Seldom Home
04-23-2010, 02:49 PM
How far is the pintle supposed to move. Is the position in the photo open? closed? Does it move in or out from this position?

Bump. Anybody out there?

carfleet mntc
04-26-2010, 10:40 PM
This is for seldom home. The pintle only opens up enough to allow exhaust gas to recirculate when the engine is cold. It is normally in the down position,and only pulls up when starting.The pintle shown is down(closed) .This information is good only for electric E.G.R.s ,Good Luck.

Seldom Home
04-27-2010, 08:49 AM
This is for seldom home. The pintle only opens up enough to allow exhaust gas to recirculate when the engine is cold. It is normally in the down position,and only pulls up when starting.The pintle shown is down(closed) .This information is good only for electric E.G.R.s ,Good Luck.

Thanks for the information, that's the answer I needed.

bitterlemons
06-19-2010, 10:50 PM
Wanted to post a much-delayed thanks to sunshn1972 for this thread. Our SW2 was giving us some trouble and we narrowed it down to the EGR valve. It was only a couple of hundred to get it fixed, but that was a couple of hundred we definitely didn't have. My wife and I followed the instructions here and almost a year later the problem remains fixed. Cost us a can of carb cleaner, some gloves and paper towels, and an old toothbrush :-) It was our first mechanical venture as new car owners, and our success definitely helped us feel more confident in tackling things ourselves. Thanks again!

Take care
-Justin-

sublimegoddess
07-02-2010, 06:01 PM
i have a 97 automatic sc1. im going to have my dad clean my egr valve tomorrow with the throttle body. im going to buy the parts for him and was trying to get it taken care of today. I'm confused which gaskets of these i should be purchasing.

Felpro EGR/Exhaust Air Supply Gasket
Part No. 70789

or

BWD EGR Valve Mounting Gasket
Part No. EVG41

and
im assuming that this is the right one for the throttle body?
Felpro Throttle Body Gasket
Part No. 61177

these parts are from AA, i tried to post links but it will not let me because i am a new member.

wei_
08-02-2010, 06:02 PM
Another thank you post! My SL2 was hesitating for a bit. Still 32mpg mixed, but just didn't feel as powerful as new. After cleaning the EGR this weekend, it doesn't seem to need to downshift for passing power anymore. Thanks!

memorx11
08-06-2010, 04:46 PM
Thank you so much for the info as my saturn pretty much was dying and this brought it back to life. It saved me 300 dollars. Now if I can just figure out what the knocking sound is when I start to accelerate!

mommysheri
08-14-2010, 01:26 PM
I have never owned a Saturn before, until I bought a 99 SL1 for my daughter. We've had it for about 3 months now. Within the first three days we had to replace the water pump and the serp belt (pain in the butt...but done). Now the rpms (sometimes are high) on start up. Settles down after a min. We can drive the car about 10 min and its fine. Then it starts to surge at times and when coming to a light (lower RPM's)it will stall out. Have had it hooked up to read codes 3 times...nothing is indicating EGR. It came up with P0133 - O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1, replaced that. Also came up with P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced that. Still stalling.../sigh. Could it still be the EGR but code not registering? Or, could it be the Throttle positioning sensor?

Also, take note, NO SES light came on -EVER. (thinking possibly that's just a bulb out).

PS. I bought a new O2 sensor for 'after the catalytic converter' ...debating on waiting to put it on until after we clean the EGR. If cleaning solves the issue, I will just return the O2 sensor and get my $82.00 back.

Saturns are new terrain for me...gimme a classic like a 280z and I'll write you a book. :)

diblue1121
09-06-2010, 03:25 PM
WOW! 5 years after the origional post, and this post has helped me tons! Every site I've looked at said to clean the EGR valve using carb cleaner, but didn't really say where to spray it, etc...Your post has helped me so much! My car was running/idling really rough, and at times would die. Took me 10-15 minutes to pull it, spray it, let it dry, and put it all back together. My EGR valve was caked up with carbon crud. I ran it approx 30 miles, and the SES light hasn't come back on so far. The car isn't idling rough at a stop light now (my window roller is no longer driving me crazy with it's rattle at least.) I'm hoping I don't get about half way to work tomorrow only to have the light come back on, but so far so good!

mcnerven
09-06-2010, 11:21 PM
My 97 Saturn Sl2 (131k) has been idling extremely rough and bucking during acceleration. The service engine light came up so I took it to Autozone and sure enough the EGR Valve code, P1404, came up.

I removed the EGR valve and tried to clean this, but noticed that the pintle (sp?) doesn't fully close even after cleaning leaving a small gap. Do I just need to do a better job of cleaning or should I just go buy a new EGR valve altogether?

I put it back on regardless and went on a test drive and it's still running poorly. Also I did not turn on the car with the EGR Valve removed. Is this a vital step?

Thanks for the help!

mcnerven
09-07-2010, 08:56 PM
Second time was a charm. Followed Richpin's youtube video "Trouble Code P0404 EGR Cleaning" to the letter during the sunshine today and my car didn't buck or have a rough idle at low speeds after.

There was some weird goop, like dialectic grease or hair gel, in the electrical connection and I cleaned that out too.

Fingers crossed that this fix my issues for awhile!

I used throttle body cleaner (tons of it) followed by brake cleaner to remove residue and used a thin allen wrench to scrap a lot of the gunk off.

brunobie1
10-09-2010, 01:14 PM
Worked great... thanks for the information. My service engine light was on and the code from Autozone said EGR Throttle Position. I used the carb cleaner like you showed and the light is off and car is running great!

goldenkd
11-19-2010, 01:49 PM
I had my EGR valve cleaned a few weeks ago, and when the symptoms came back, the mechanics said I probably need to replace it. Also, one said that when they are up in miles and burning oil, they get clogged more often. Would replacing it really help then? Should I just clean it more often? How do you know when it is time to replace it, really?

bitterlemons
12-21-2010, 11:01 PM
Just realized I had never posted a thank you in this thread. It allowed my wife and I to do our first bit of tinkering with our Saturn a few months after we got it. We didn't have the $300 to pay the shop to replace it so we used these instructions and did it ourselves. Not only did it save us about $293, but gave us the satisfaction and confidence to tackle more and more projects. Roughly 60,000km later, the EGR valve is still going strong!

greenthumb
01-18-2011, 07:51 PM
Thanks so much. Worked like a charm and smoged without a hitch.:D Unfortunatly you left out the part about cleaning the EGR makes the radiator explode...Oh I guess that was only my car. :cry: Now you'll have to excuse me while I read up on how to replace a radiator.

stealthninja
03-10-2011, 07:04 PM
thank you original poster of the how to!!!!
Made my car run smoother and cleaner.
will do further analysis to determine if it made my P0404 code go away.
Thanks again.
Also can you help me determine what I need to replace to fix the following codes:
P0420
P0440
Thanks in advance for your knowledge and assistance.

magreger
03-13-2011, 10:00 AM
How long will the Soda can gasket last? My particular problem arises when the engine is at operating temp. Will the aluminum last that long?

jakehathaway
04-04-2011, 04:37 PM
So, I did this on Saturday. It took about 3 min to get the EGR off. I didn't have to move the airhose or the bracket. It took about 45 min to clean the part. Man was it dirty. My pintle worked ok, but it looked like it wasn't coming up all the way which was probably the 1404 error I had on SES. I have driven 70 miles since and the SES has stayed off.
Thanks for creating such a great post.

I cleaned my EGR valve today. I wasn't having any problems, it was just preventive maintenance. My 98 SL2 is at almost 121,000 miles, and as far as I know the EGR valve has never been cleaned. I was surprised that there was almost no build up on it. A few sprays of carb cleaner and a toothbrush got it shining in just a few minutes.

So here's what I did, with pictures.

keithreed
04-28-2011, 03:55 AM
I son't know how to clean my EGR valve.. please help me thanks :)

Guys2nv
06-02-2011, 02:42 PM
I love this forum, I signed up last year but I haven't had any problems with my 2000 sl1-until today when it started to sputter alil while driving between 2000-2500 rpms, Looks like I got some work ahead of me. I'll be doing a full tune up and replacing the coolant temp sensor and cleaning my egr.

narfoner
06-13-2011, 05:09 PM
Thanks for the help! I combined cleaning my EGR with putting on a new valve cover and my engine runs a heck of a lot better.

vincentj
11-02-2011, 04:47 PM
cleaned my egr, runs great, cute pictures btw. I suggest cleaning throttle body while you have your supplies out as well :)

Moms Car
12-05-2011, 03:40 PM
Ain't the internet great. Searched for "Trouble code P1404 1999 Saturn" and zoomed right into to this forum and thread.

The instructions at the top page worked perfectly. I just thought I'd add a few details relating to the 1999 model.

The bolts holding the EGR valve are still 10mm, but there's no bracket on top of the rear bolt on mine. You'll still leave a deep socket to get the back bolt out since the extension to hold down the missing bracket is still there.

Removal is simple. Pull off the hose between the valve cover & the plastic air inlet pipe. Use pliers or channel lock to squeeze the bands holding the inlet pipe onto the filter housing and the mass air sensor then pull it off. Remove the plug & wire on the top of the EGR valve, then take off the bolts.

Once off the underside has what looks like a torx head in a hole. That's the solenoid. It should move in and out freely. Mine was stuck shut with carbon. I used carburetor cleaner, but something more suited to carbon rather than hydrocarbon gunk might be better. Some curved & straight tools with careful scraping did the heaving lifting for me. The carb cleaner kind of washed the debris out.

Cleaning and reassembly done the engine went from barely choking around to smooth and powerful.

steveg4432
03-16-2012, 07:06 PM
Hello,

i have a 2000 sl1. the egr value is on the front left? is this correct?

thanks,
steve

JohnBo
07-02-2012, 03:52 PM
Got a P1404 trouble code on my 1997 SL2 so Google took me here. Just cleaned the EGR with ease yesterday, thanks to the 1st post in this thread - well, and I kept looking a bit more and also found the RichPin YouTube that made it sooo simple. Thanks!

Some time after getting off the freeway this morning the idle (5 speed manual trans) was crazy high, about 2K. Luckily I was almost to work so I just got in and parked ASAP. Just started it to find out, idle was much more sane, 800 rpm or so.
I just cleaned my throttle body and EGR valve today, as it was getting stuck open and throwing an SES light.

The pintle on mine became completely stuck the first time I depressed it, and spraying carb cleaner had no effect. I was horrified as I needed my car later that day for something. Finally I figured out that I could tap (hard but not too hard) the bottom of the valve (the one with the ports) with a screwdriver and it would pop back out again.

The engine idled real high and generally just acted funky after I did it (which may also be because of the throttle body being cleaned), but it eventually settled down after driving it some time. The SES light stayed on for awhile, but it eventually went off.

Very easy repair. Takes maybe 10 minutes if everything goes right. Thanks for the writeup!

So I guess this high idle is normal? I just read elsewhere that killing the engine and starting it back up should cure it, if not some other part is busted, so I'll check back later to say how this went.

Well, off to look for more info on cleaning up a SL2, throttle body sounds like a good idea. Plus I'll probably have to do more emissions improvements to get it to pass my next smog check... Then heater and AC are broken...

Anyway, just got here but looks like a great forum, thanks all!

JohnBo
07-05-2012, 11:19 AM
So I guess this high idle is normal? I just read elsewhere that killing the engine and starting it back up should cure it, if not some other part is busted, so I'll check back later to say how this went.

Well, off to look for more info on cleaning up a SL2, throttle body sounds like a good idea. Plus I'll probably have to do more emissions improvements to get it to pass my next smog check... Then heater and AC are broken...

Anyway, just got here but looks like a great forum, thanks all!
Idle hasn't gone that crazy high again, it still seems a little off now and then, but appears to be settling back down, so all is well there.

Also after posting that I clicked on the S series forum so saw that big thread on common maintenance and issues - it is giving me plenty more to look into.

Thanks again!

pooty
01-13-2013, 03:30 PM
Sorry for posting on something so old, but thank you very much for this tutorial

silverblackjoe
04-07-2013, 09:29 PM
1. Find the EGR valve. Since I had never heard of such a thing until about a month ago, this was an interesting task.

don't know if I'm responding in the right spot, but here goes.....just like to thank all associated with SaturnFans.com......just inherited a 1997 SW2 station wagon....ran like crap....... EGR Was virtually encrusted!!!!.....Removed at least an ounce of crud.......after affects were amazing.....other vehicle...F-350 4X4 Diesel.....500 + a month as daily driver....SW2 26 bucks to fill up....running like a champ at 312,000 miles....you guys are life savers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks a million...if I hit the lotto I'll remember all of you. LOL.

Saver78
04-23-2013, 01:23 PM
I don't know if you want to list the name brands or what, but what Carb Cleaner would you guys recommend or did use for this job? May have to do this very soon and just want to make sure I get the right stuff...I have PB Blaster but not Carb Cleaner right now. Any help would be great. I too thank goodness for this forum and friends!

saturnhusker
06-19-2013, 07:35 PM
Car has 240k and ultragauge was showing pending code 0404 so I just cleaned my egr valve and pintle wast stuck closed. Now it moves freely I am excited to see what my mpg will be, it's all ready @ 45 mpg hwy going up would be priceless. I did notice that there was oil on the exaust side where the pintle sits over. Is that normal or cause for alarm?

randyblough
12-21-2013, 07:43 PM
thanks. i was quoted $302 for EGR replacement to clear the Check engine code, but, thanks to this forum, fixed it for ZERO Dollars!

m4gician
02-12-2014, 09:46 PM
Bumping this. Wondering if I can only get the gasket at the dealer or does the auto parts store have one?

mattfluck
02-19-2014, 12:15 PM
Bumping this. Wondering if I can only get the gasket at the dealer or does the auto parts store have one?

I just one at autozone for 1.69, saw on a few posts people were saying that the autozone felpro gasket was fine. Compared with a 10$ ac delco. Good luck.

analogthought
02-25-2014, 12:45 PM
Thanks a ton for this thread! I took my car in for a 65 point inspection and was told the egr valve was throwing codes and was the worst of issues showing up. I was told by the mechanic I'd need to have it replaced... After doing some research I found that most mechanics will suggest this rather than taking time to see if being in need of a good cleaning is the culprit. After calling around and getting quoted almost $300 for a full on replacement ("electric ones are more costly" was the explanation) - I went to autozone and got quoted $79 for a new egr valve, or $1.99 for a new gasket if i was going to attempt cleaning it myself and replacing the gasket. After taking it apart to clean it the part of the pinktle with the indention in the center was coated in so much carbon that it had formed a mound of build up. I put it all back together with the new gasket in place and a cleaned egr and now the car (for the first time since I've owned it) runs insanely better. Pickup is twice what it was. The only question I have now is that while at autozone they showed two gaskets for my year/make/model, one with a screen for $29 and the one I bought without a screen for $1.99. The one I replaced had no screen. Is there any benefit to having a gasket with a screen other than the obvious longevity and filtration? Is this something recommended over not having one? Is it worth it to take it apart and buy the one with the screen? My thinking was to clean the screen that was in the old one and pair it with the new gasket, assuming you could do that. I'm a total noob with this stuff. You guys are awesome, and yet again this site has saved me tons of money.