Changing a Starter on a 1997 SC1

[georgiesweep]

On 1997 SC1. Does anyone know the location of the starter and any special tips?

[savage]

well its on the back side of the motor(firewall side) i did one on a 93 sc1 and it was really not fun, of course that was like 2 years ago and i didnt have much skill back then. i would say it would take only like 2 hours to r&r one if you have some experience.

[sierrap615]

if you can find a curved wrench or an "obstruction" wrench, you will make it alot easyer, else get alot of extentions and attack from the far side of the intake manifold.

1. disconnect the negitive battery cable, and if you want the positive too(but disconnect the negitive first)
2. raise and support the vehicle with jackstands.
3. if there is a splash shield, remove it by carefully pulling the center of the push pin out with a flathead screwdriver, pliers, or wire cutters (pull don't cut) then pull the outer pecie out.
4. spray the the electrical connector nuts with penetrating oil, wait a minute, spray a little more...
5. if you want, label the wires or reinstallation(there are only three)
6. disconnect all wires and move out of way
7. heres the hard part, remove lower and upper support bolts(attached to the flywheel side of the block/starter) it took me well over a hour for those two bolts.
8. if equipped, remove the bolt attaching the starter rear support bracket to the vehicle
9. carefully support the started(the little guy is heavy) and remove it, this may take some rotating, pulling and pushing

while it is out, check the starter gear teeth, any wear there will be matched on the flywheel, if you can, check the flywheel ring gear teeth thru the starter mounting hole for wear.

to install
1. if you had the rear support bracket in #8 above, and it will fit in the new starter, install the bracket to the new starter and torque to 7 ft-lb.
2. guide the starter into the bell housing, besure the lower bolt holes align
3. verify all bolt holes align and loosely install bolts.
4. after ALL bolts have been started, tighten the upper and lower bolts to 27 ft-lb, i don't think the rear support has a torque spec.
5. reconnect the wires DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. the big wires torque to 89in-lb (7.4 ft-lb), the little guy torque to 44 in-lb (just under 4 ft-lb) if you can call that torque...
6. reinstall splash shield, some starters do not have a spot for the push-pin, in which case the splash sheild is left off.
7. lower the vehicle
8. reconnect positive cable and negitive cable(do the negitive LAST)
9. starter up! FYI - when the battery is disconnected, your fuel maps, shift points, idle, clock and radio preset and a few other will all be erased. it shouldn't take more then a day for the PCM to 'relearn' everything.

[spliffsplaff]

Just a tip when re-installing the starter that i found to be extremely helpful- i used a metal punch to align the top bolt hole and hold it there while i bolted the bottom one snug, then i was free to do the top without holding onto the starter.

[Twin_Cam]

Just a quick addition....bolt sizes for this job....

Mounting bolts- 13mm
Big electrical cable- 13mm (some replacement starters have a different size nut, mine was 14mm)
Little wire- 9mm

You will also need a 6" extension, and a 3/8" ratchet isn't necessary, but is really nice when working in that cramped space.