Saturn Internal Cleaning TSB

[Lucas1]

ok, heres the Saturn internal claening procedure found in bulletin 94-T-59A, requested by Applefool. Probably belongs in the How-TO section, but oh well.

SUBJECT: Oil Consumption Concern (Diagnosis/Service Procedure)

CONDITION: Some customers may comment that the engine is using 1 quart or more of oil every 300 mi.

CAUSE: Engine oil consumption greater than 1 quart in 3000 mi. may be caused by stuck/sticking oil control and/or compression rings. Engine deposits may build up on and around the oil control rings and compression rings and pistion ring lands causing the rings to stick and become less effective.

CORRECTION: Perform internal engine cleaning procedure or engine repair procedure depending on amount of oil consumption.

IF engine uses 1 quart of oil in:

1500mi. - 3000mi., perform procedure - 1: Internal Engine Cleaning.

1499 mi. or less, perform procedure - 2: Engine Repair.

While Saturn still considers oil consumption of 1 quart in 2000 mi. to be an acceptable level, the engine cleaning procedure contained in this bulletin may improve oil consumption to an even more acceptable level.

ENGINE OIL INSPECTION AND OIL CONSUMPTION TEST

1. Inspect engine for external leaks and repair as necessary.

2. Verify that the correct PCV valve is installed. Some aftermarket PCV valves do not meet Saturn specs and can cause oil consumption.

3. Change oil and filter.

4. Start engine and bring to normal operating temp. (197-212 F).

5. Park vehicle on level ground and wait a minimum of 5 minutes after engine is shut off. Check engine oil to make sure its at "FULL" on the dipstick.

6. Record the vehicles mileage and date of oil change.

7. REturn vehicle to customer and have customer return when vehicle is 1 quart low and record mileage.

PROCEDURE - 1 INTERNAL ENGINE CLEANING

1. Warm up to normal operating temp.
IMPORTANT: In order for the cleaner to be effective, the engine must be warm.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable.

3. Remove spark plugs.

4. Rotato the crankshaft until notch in crank pulley is at the 3 o'clock (90 degrees after TDC) position. This will position all of the pistons midway in their bores.

5. Pour 3 oz. of GM Piston & Ring Cleaner (PN 12378549) into each cylinder through the spark plug hole.

6. Cover the cylinder head and spark plug holes to prevent debris from getting into the combustion chamber and to prevent excess evaporation of the cleaner.

7. Allow the cleaner to saok for a minimum of 2 hours.

NOTICE: After the minimum 2 hour soak, there may be some cleaner left in the cylinders. DO NOT start the engine until all of the cleaner has been removed or serious engine damage may occur.

8. After soak, remove the remaining claener by placing shop towels over the spark plug holes and cranking the engine through a few revolutions.

9. Install the spark plugs.

10. Start the engine and run only enough to reach normal operating temp.

11. Drain oil and remove filter.

12. Install new oil filter.

IMPORTANT: Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30 engine oil is to be used during the inital oil change interval following this procedure. Mobil 1 synthetic oil has excellent engine cleaning properties that will aid in removing deposits that were loosened and softened by this procedure.

13. Install 4 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 oil.

14. Return vehicle to customer.

15. After 1500mi. - 3000mi. miles of operation have customer return for oil change.

16. Start oil consumption test.

There is a whole other section on engine repair, but im not going to type all of it.

I have done this exactly how this bulletin says several times and it has worked very well.

GOOD LUCK!

[Applefool]

Excellent. I was hoping that would show the actual part number needed for the TSB recomended cleaning. This is pretty much what I do only with the GM TEC. I also haven't messed with the crankshaft rotation step. Not sure how important that is. Great info, thanks.

[TedL]

I have posted the P/N. Search for a post by me with the word "piston".

[Applefool]

I recall the part number - I was wondering which of the 2 part #'s you posted were actually used in the TSB. I have yet to try that smaller more expensive bottle.

[TedL]

Go back and read step 5 of the procedure Lucas1 posted. That's the $26 bottle.

[Applefool]

I did, that was the info I was hoping to get from the TSB. I recall you listing the 2 part numbers you tried but I never knew which was the part # for the TSB until he posted the full TSB.

[Lucas1]

yeah, its the small 12 oz. bottle.

i think that step 5 of the oil consumption test should be stressed. you MUST let the car sit on a level surface for at least 5 minutes to get an accurate reading of the oil level. I think alot of people dont do this and get false low readings. you have to allow the oil some time to drain back into the pan.

[sierrap615]

i got this from someone on the forum:

Top Engine Cleaner P/N 1050002 15 Fl. Oz screw top metal can
Petroleum Naphtha
Water
2-Butoxy Ethanol
9-Octadecenoic acid (Z)- ammonium salt
Mineral Oil
Methyl Amyl Alcohol

Piston and Ring Cleaner P/N 12378549 12 Fl Oz plastic bottle
2-Pyrrolidinone, 1-methyl
Benzyl alcohol
Poly (oxy-1,2,-ethanediyl), .alpha.-(4-nonylphenyl) -.omega.hydroxy-, branched


here we are talking the piston and ring cleaner

[sierrap615]

also if you use Mobil 1 synthetic oil or any synthetic i think, watch it's color closey, even more so if you don't normally use synthetic. it will grab that dirt real fast.

[Lucas1]

well, thats the idea.

[Dr. Bob]

ok, heres the Saturn internal claening procedure found in bulletin 94-T-59A,
Does that "94" in the TSB mean the TSB was issued in 1994?

[Lucas1]

no, it was issued in febuary of 2004

[Dr. Bob]

It's good to get an "officially approved" procedure, but one has to wonder what took 'em so long...

[wrg813]

Originally posted by Lucas1
no, it was issued in febuary of 2004 I'm afraid the format of the TSB bulletin number indicates that was indeed issued in 1994. The "A" may indicate it has been updated at one point for the same symptoms. Almost all bullitens issued in 2004 have a different format for the reference number due to GM's current involvement with Saturn. Edit... Just did a google on it. It may have been re-released in Feb of '03 with the "A" edit and possible new information, but the 94 indicates it was initially released in '94.

[meseville]

Just curious. I've tried the MMO soak 3 times on a 95,000 mile SL1 unsuccessfully. It still uses a quart every 500-600 miles. Do you think using the Top Engine Cleaner mensioned above, or usiiing Mobil 1 is a superior alternative to MMO?

[Applefool]

Use the specific part number mentioned above. That would be the Piston & Ring cleaner. I'm going to pick some up and do this again with the actual part.

[93BLKTWINCAM]

I actually tried Shell Rotella oil for diesels, and it has properties to desolve soot in diesel engines. It worked after the MMO was unsucessful (actually partially sucessful). Must have desolved carbon/soot on rings/landings....

[Lucas1]

Originally posted by wrg813
I'm afraid the format of the TSB bulletin number indicates that was indeed issued in 1994. The "A" may indicate it has been updated at one point for the same symptoms. Almost all bullitens issued in 2004 have a different format for the reference number due to GM's current involvement with Saturn. Edit... Just did a google on it. It may have been re-released in Feb of '03 with the "A" edit and possible new information, but the 94 indicates it was initially released in '94.

well, if you know that then why did you ask? :D it was initally relased in '94 as 94-T-59, i am aware of how the numbers work, but i really didnt want to go into detail, the old bulletin adressed oil consumption, but did not have any cleaning procedures in it, only repairs. you asked me when the bulletin 94-T-59A was issued, which was Feb '03, so the answer to the question you asked me is still Feb '03, but yes 94-T-59, came out in '94. just incase you want to waste more of your time, heres some more details.

Bulletin Number - 94-T-59A
Issue Date - February, 2003
Catergory Type - Engine-16
Category - General
Corporation Number - 03-06-01-001R

so have fun, do some research, and then tell me im wrong............

[wrg813]

Originally posted by Lucas1
no, it was issued in febuary of 2004 ???

[Lucas1]

Originally posted by wrg813
???

What? im not allowed to make a mistake? it shoulve been Feb '03.

I have a great idea, you should go through every post ive ever made and point out every mistake and ask questions about things that are irrelevent to what the post says, then try to get all technical after youve done a google search on it. that sounds like fun, huh?

[Heartbeat - '95 SL2]

For the record, it was Dr. Bob that asked if the TSB was issued in '94 -- wrg813 responded with the Google info. No need for anyone to get bent over this minor issue, as the real info needed is here. Minor mistakes or not, all input from Saturn techs is *much appreciated* :)

[Lucas1]

im not bent about it, i dont really care. wrg18 obviously knows more about saturn bulletins than anyone in the world, so from now on he can post all info. related to TSB's. i just think that its stupid that i take the time to type that whole thing out and some guy wants to totally pick it apart and try to tell me about saturn bulletins. but, what are you going to do?

[wrg813]

Ok, I'll bite. I was trying to give Dr. Bob some additional info on his question. Yes, you did take the time to type it out and I don't recall "picking it apart". How could I "pick apart" a TSB that has been issued with information from the manufacturer that saturnfans has known all along? And yes, you are allowed to make mistakes. And I am allowed to waste my time however I please. I do not use it in the you way you have pointed out, though. Quite simply was answering a question.

[wolfman]

Temper.. temper... I think GM just had to come up with something they could sell (at a substantial markup) to customers for this purpose. Other (cheaper) aftermarket products have been used (and are still being used) by others (myself included) for years prior to (either) date..

[wrg813]

Originally posted by wolfman
Temper.. temper... I think GM just had to come up with something they could sell (at a substantial markup) to customers for this purpose. Other (cheaper) aftermarket products have been used (and are still being used) by others (myself included) for years prior to (either) date.. Very good conclusion. I agree this may be the case based on all the information available to the average consumer these days.

[Tiger]

Thanks Lucas1 for the info!

[Lucas1]

Originally posted by wolfman
Temper.. temper... I think GM just had to come up with something they could sell (at a substantial markup) to customers for this purpose. Other (cheaper) aftermarket products have been used (and are still being used) by others (myself included) for years prior to (either) date..

I agree with you, but i do have to say that the stuff works very well. better than anything else ive seen.

[tgparker]

4. Rotato the crankshaft until notch in crank pulley is at the 3 o'clock (90 degrees after TDC) position. This will position all of the pistons midway in their bores.
GOOD LUCK!

OK, I'm a total newbie, how do you rotate the crankshaft so that the crank pulley is at three o'clock? Please explain, are there any online... pictures that can explain this to a newbie like myself?

Thanks in advance,

Tony

[sierrap615]

on the outside edge of the crank pulley there is a tiny notch, if that notch is facing dead left or dead right, you are good. the proper way to rotate the crankshaft is with a 21MM socket and a breaker bar/ratchet, the easy way is to use the starter.