cris_thomas
06-27-2004, 02:53 PM
This document with pictures lives here.
http://www.cristhomas.com/cars/Clutch/ClutchHowTo.html
I'm posting the whole document minus the pictures to the site in case my site disappears and someone is doing a search.
Saturn S-series Manual Clutch Replacement
Disclaimer:
I am not a mechanic. These instructions are a conglomeration of several other how-to documents, Saturn FSMs, shop manuals, online postings and other sources of information. These instructions are in no way authorized, approved, or otherwise condoned by Saturn Corp. If you render your car undrivable, unsafe, or just plain broken I am in no way responsible. If you are an idiot, moron or just plain stupid do not attempt this repair.
Introduction:
It took me 14 hours over two days to complete this repair. This is not the easiest method for replacing a clutch but it does allow you to do it with the engine in the car and without a needing an alignment afterwards. Previous to this the most complicated things I had done were brake pads and rotors, valve cover gasket, and a radiator. On a scale of one to ten with an oil change being a one, pads and rotors being a three I would rate this a seven. If you have access to a lift use it, otherwise plan on spending a large amount of time lying down on your back under the car. Also you will need to be able to lift approximately 80 pounds from this position as you maneuver the transmission into the driver’s side wheel well. This procedure will be slightly easier if you do not have AC installed. Most of the photos are from a 2001 SC2, your vehicle may be slightly different. I have purposely not included any torque specifications in this document, this will hopefully force you to buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual.
Tools and parts needed:
- Usual hand tools (Including 18mm open wrench)
- Jack
- Jack Stands
- New shifter tower gasket or RTV
- 2.5L Dextron III trans fluid
- Clutch / pressure plate / throwout bearing
- Clutch alignment tool
- 2 Ball joint cotter pins
- Torque wrench
- Large Pry Bar
- 30mm Tall Socket
- Some sort of engine support
- Saturn shop manual with torque specifications
Much easier if you have a hoist to run the car up and down. Assuming that you don't so try and get the car as high into the air as you can, SAFELY OF COURSE. 15-18 inches between the rear subframe and the floor is probably a good compromise. Since you will be exerting some force on various components while the car is elevated, it’s critical that the supports are absolutely solid.
The engine will need to be supported, either by an engine support from the top or something from below that will not be in the way or get knocked over and drop the engine on you. From the top is likely the best. If you support it from the bottom, a wood block under the oilpan works.
As you remove hardware, lay it down on a clean surface in a line in the sequence it was removed. This will help prevent missing something during reassembly.
On the top (car can be on the floor or slightly elevated):
1. Make note of your car stereo preset stations. This may sound stupid but the next step is to disconnect the battery so unless your radio has a battery backup you will end loosing all of your preset stations. If you have an aftermarket stereo like I do that’s 30 presets you’ll have to remember.
2. Remove strut tower brace if installed. Be sure to replace the strut tower mounting nuts. This step may not be 100% necessary but you will be thankful for the extra room later.
3. Remove the air intake/air filter box, battery, and battery tray. On newer S Series you will need to disconnect the PCM (square silver box behind the battery). If you have never removed the battery tray there is one bolt that is accessed from the drivers side wheel well. Don’t do what I did and just rip it out. If you do, a little super glue and JB Weld will make it right.
4. Disconnect the reverse switch connector from the top of the shifter tower, the speed sensor connector from the transmission and the coolant temperature sensor connector from the engine.
5. Disconnect the shifter cables from the shifter tower and remove them from the transmission bell housing. The cables are attached to the shifter tower by small clips that should just slide off. To disconnect them from the bell housing just pull back slightly and then lift through the slot. (There is an excellent diagram in the Saturn FSM if you have one.)
6. Disconnect the spark plug wires. Disconnect the cable from the ignition coils. Remove the ignition coils from the engine.
7. Remove the clutch slave cylinder. Do NOT disconnect the hydraulic lines. The Saturn clutch hydraulics are a closed system and are not meant to be serviced. If you accidentally pull one of these lines you will need to buy new hydraulics from Saturn. Do NOT step on the clutch with the slave cylinder removed. Doing so will destroy the part and you will need to replace the entire hydraulic system. Removing the slave cylinder is sort of like opening a medicine bottle. Push in and twist one-third turn and it should just pop out. Remove the two nuts that secure the cylinder bracket and move it up out of the way.
8. On the top of the transmission is the locator bracket/mount. It connects to the transmission to one of the engine mounts. Remove the two bolts that secure the bracket to the transmissions and lift it up out of the way.
9. Some people have said that you should also remove the shifter tower. Others have said that it is not necessary. If you don’t remove it you won’t need a new gasket but you also might not have enough clearance to move the transmission into the wheel well. Your choice. I removed it and didn’t have a problem. If you do remove it be sure to clean the area first and then cover the opening with a rag or something to keep dirt from falling in.
10. There are two bolts that secure the bell housing to the engine. You may notice ground cables connected to them. Disconnect the ground cables and remove the two bolts.
11. By now you probably have a mess of cables all over the place. It would probably be a good idea to lift them up out of the way as much as possible. String or zip ties work well.
12. If your going to install an engine support from above do so now. This should be everything that needs to be done from the top of the car.
13. Jack up the car and use jack stands. A good 15 to 18 inches should suffice. Make sure the car is secure. You will need to exert a lot of force on the car from underneath. Don’t be the one idiot every year who kills themselves by a dropping a car on their heads.
14. Remove the left and right front wheel.
15. Drain the transmission fluid. Install the drain plug and tighten it NOW not later, you’ll forget later.
16. If your going to support the engine from below do so now. Again make sure your supports are sturdy and can handle you tightening bolts from underneath.
17. With the 30mm long socket remove the drivers side axle nut. You may find that you need some penetrating oil to loosen up the rust. If you have had work done on the car by a professional mechanic they probably put this on with a air tools. (My right side was much tighter than the left side) Use a long breaker bar to get the leverage needed. Wedge a pry bar between the wheel lugs and the floor to stop the wheel from moving. There is an excellent picture in your Haynes manual that shows this.
18. Remove the ball joint cotter pin and throw it away. Loosen the castle nut as much as you can, you will need the 18mm box wrench. A cresent wrench won’t fit. It is unlikely the nut will come off all the way as the axle will be in the way.
19. Wedge a large pry bar (the larger the better) between the vehicle frame and the front sway bar and pull down, hard. At the same time smack the ball joint with a hammer. Eventually the ball joint will pop out of the knuckle. When it does remove the castle nut and separate the ball joint from the knuckle. DO NOT use a pickle fork or ball joint separator, as you will damage the rubber seal. If you tear the seal you will need to replace the whole piece.
20. Remove the plastic mud shields from inside the wheel well.
Continued in part 2
http://www.cristhomas.com/cars/Clutch/ClutchHowTo.html
I'm posting the whole document minus the pictures to the site in case my site disappears and someone is doing a search.
Saturn S-series Manual Clutch Replacement
Disclaimer:
I am not a mechanic. These instructions are a conglomeration of several other how-to documents, Saturn FSMs, shop manuals, online postings and other sources of information. These instructions are in no way authorized, approved, or otherwise condoned by Saturn Corp. If you render your car undrivable, unsafe, or just plain broken I am in no way responsible. If you are an idiot, moron or just plain stupid do not attempt this repair.
Introduction:
It took me 14 hours over two days to complete this repair. This is not the easiest method for replacing a clutch but it does allow you to do it with the engine in the car and without a needing an alignment afterwards. Previous to this the most complicated things I had done were brake pads and rotors, valve cover gasket, and a radiator. On a scale of one to ten with an oil change being a one, pads and rotors being a three I would rate this a seven. If you have access to a lift use it, otherwise plan on spending a large amount of time lying down on your back under the car. Also you will need to be able to lift approximately 80 pounds from this position as you maneuver the transmission into the driver’s side wheel well. This procedure will be slightly easier if you do not have AC installed. Most of the photos are from a 2001 SC2, your vehicle may be slightly different. I have purposely not included any torque specifications in this document, this will hopefully force you to buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual.
Tools and parts needed:
- Usual hand tools (Including 18mm open wrench)
- Jack
- Jack Stands
- New shifter tower gasket or RTV
- 2.5L Dextron III trans fluid
- Clutch / pressure plate / throwout bearing
- Clutch alignment tool
- 2 Ball joint cotter pins
- Torque wrench
- Large Pry Bar
- 30mm Tall Socket
- Some sort of engine support
- Saturn shop manual with torque specifications
Much easier if you have a hoist to run the car up and down. Assuming that you don't so try and get the car as high into the air as you can, SAFELY OF COURSE. 15-18 inches between the rear subframe and the floor is probably a good compromise. Since you will be exerting some force on various components while the car is elevated, it’s critical that the supports are absolutely solid.
The engine will need to be supported, either by an engine support from the top or something from below that will not be in the way or get knocked over and drop the engine on you. From the top is likely the best. If you support it from the bottom, a wood block under the oilpan works.
As you remove hardware, lay it down on a clean surface in a line in the sequence it was removed. This will help prevent missing something during reassembly.
On the top (car can be on the floor or slightly elevated):
1. Make note of your car stereo preset stations. This may sound stupid but the next step is to disconnect the battery so unless your radio has a battery backup you will end loosing all of your preset stations. If you have an aftermarket stereo like I do that’s 30 presets you’ll have to remember.
2. Remove strut tower brace if installed. Be sure to replace the strut tower mounting nuts. This step may not be 100% necessary but you will be thankful for the extra room later.
3. Remove the air intake/air filter box, battery, and battery tray. On newer S Series you will need to disconnect the PCM (square silver box behind the battery). If you have never removed the battery tray there is one bolt that is accessed from the drivers side wheel well. Don’t do what I did and just rip it out. If you do, a little super glue and JB Weld will make it right.
4. Disconnect the reverse switch connector from the top of the shifter tower, the speed sensor connector from the transmission and the coolant temperature sensor connector from the engine.
5. Disconnect the shifter cables from the shifter tower and remove them from the transmission bell housing. The cables are attached to the shifter tower by small clips that should just slide off. To disconnect them from the bell housing just pull back slightly and then lift through the slot. (There is an excellent diagram in the Saturn FSM if you have one.)
6. Disconnect the spark plug wires. Disconnect the cable from the ignition coils. Remove the ignition coils from the engine.
7. Remove the clutch slave cylinder. Do NOT disconnect the hydraulic lines. The Saturn clutch hydraulics are a closed system and are not meant to be serviced. If you accidentally pull one of these lines you will need to buy new hydraulics from Saturn. Do NOT step on the clutch with the slave cylinder removed. Doing so will destroy the part and you will need to replace the entire hydraulic system. Removing the slave cylinder is sort of like opening a medicine bottle. Push in and twist one-third turn and it should just pop out. Remove the two nuts that secure the cylinder bracket and move it up out of the way.
8. On the top of the transmission is the locator bracket/mount. It connects to the transmission to one of the engine mounts. Remove the two bolts that secure the bracket to the transmissions and lift it up out of the way.
9. Some people have said that you should also remove the shifter tower. Others have said that it is not necessary. If you don’t remove it you won’t need a new gasket but you also might not have enough clearance to move the transmission into the wheel well. Your choice. I removed it and didn’t have a problem. If you do remove it be sure to clean the area first and then cover the opening with a rag or something to keep dirt from falling in.
10. There are two bolts that secure the bell housing to the engine. You may notice ground cables connected to them. Disconnect the ground cables and remove the two bolts.
11. By now you probably have a mess of cables all over the place. It would probably be a good idea to lift them up out of the way as much as possible. String or zip ties work well.
12. If your going to install an engine support from above do so now. This should be everything that needs to be done from the top of the car.
13. Jack up the car and use jack stands. A good 15 to 18 inches should suffice. Make sure the car is secure. You will need to exert a lot of force on the car from underneath. Don’t be the one idiot every year who kills themselves by a dropping a car on their heads.
14. Remove the left and right front wheel.
15. Drain the transmission fluid. Install the drain plug and tighten it NOW not later, you’ll forget later.
16. If your going to support the engine from below do so now. Again make sure your supports are sturdy and can handle you tightening bolts from underneath.
17. With the 30mm long socket remove the drivers side axle nut. You may find that you need some penetrating oil to loosen up the rust. If you have had work done on the car by a professional mechanic they probably put this on with a air tools. (My right side was much tighter than the left side) Use a long breaker bar to get the leverage needed. Wedge a pry bar between the wheel lugs and the floor to stop the wheel from moving. There is an excellent picture in your Haynes manual that shows this.
18. Remove the ball joint cotter pin and throw it away. Loosen the castle nut as much as you can, you will need the 18mm box wrench. A cresent wrench won’t fit. It is unlikely the nut will come off all the way as the axle will be in the way.
19. Wedge a large pry bar (the larger the better) between the vehicle frame and the front sway bar and pull down, hard. At the same time smack the ball joint with a hammer. Eventually the ball joint will pop out of the knuckle. When it does remove the castle nut and separate the ball joint from the knuckle. DO NOT use a pickle fork or ball joint separator, as you will damage the rubber seal. If you tear the seal you will need to replace the whole piece.
20. Remove the plastic mud shields from inside the wheel well.
Continued in part 2