wolfman
05-29-2004, 03:49 AM
All gen 1 (91’-95’) “S” series Saturns have a drip rail located above where the top of the doorframe meets the roof of the car. Overtime, the sealer/adhesive that secures it to the roof of the car can dry out and allow a leak to develop. This is often the source of the wet headliner/seat that some owners may get when the car sits out in a rainstorm, is driven in the rain or is run through a mechanical car wash. This leak can be fixed quite easily. To do so you will need:
1 tube of PermaTex BLACK RTV Silicon Adhesive and Sealer
1 Roll of 3M or Scotch BLUE masking tape (1 inch wide or wider recommended)
(BOTH of these items are available at Walmart)
Proceed as follows:
The drip rail is the long black plastic rail that runs along the top of the car where the upper door opening meets the roof. The drip rail is attached to the ROOF of the car NOT the door.
Tape off the drip rail along the rail itself to protect the finish, and along the painted roofline. It is the small “V” channel where the rail meets the roof on the roof side (NOT the door side) of the rail that you will be sealing. Use the tape to isolate this “V” and prevent the sealer you will be applying from smearing onto the painted roof surface or rail too far and looking ugly. You can do this only on the side that is actually leaking if you like, but might as well do both the passenger and driver’s side rails while you’re at it.
Apply the sealer in a continuous THIN bead into the “V” channel where the drip rail meets the roof. If your tape is properly placed, this “V” will now be between two lines of tape with about ¼ inch or so in width exposed. Ensure that there are NO breaks (voids) in this bead. Make sure to do the ENTIRE LENGTH of the drip rail from front to back. Smooth the bead down into the channel with your finger and wipe off any excess BEFORE IT DRIES with a paper towel. There may be a visible vertical split where the rail starts to curve down at the windshield, seal this split as well.
Allow the sealer to DRY for AT LEAST 2 hours. Then remove the tape by peeling it off from front to back. You will be left with a neat straight line of sealer in the “V” channel and a hopefully leak free seal again.
TIPS: Use the BLUE masking tape even though it is more expensive. It is WAY easier to work with, applies and releases easily, and leaves no residue or paint damage behind.
Make sure to allow the sealer to DRY before removing the tape, or you may open up a gap in your sealant.
1 tube of PermaTex BLACK RTV Silicon Adhesive and Sealer
1 Roll of 3M or Scotch BLUE masking tape (1 inch wide or wider recommended)
(BOTH of these items are available at Walmart)
Proceed as follows:
The drip rail is the long black plastic rail that runs along the top of the car where the upper door opening meets the roof. The drip rail is attached to the ROOF of the car NOT the door.
Tape off the drip rail along the rail itself to protect the finish, and along the painted roofline. It is the small “V” channel where the rail meets the roof on the roof side (NOT the door side) of the rail that you will be sealing. Use the tape to isolate this “V” and prevent the sealer you will be applying from smearing onto the painted roof surface or rail too far and looking ugly. You can do this only on the side that is actually leaking if you like, but might as well do both the passenger and driver’s side rails while you’re at it.
Apply the sealer in a continuous THIN bead into the “V” channel where the drip rail meets the roof. If your tape is properly placed, this “V” will now be between two lines of tape with about ¼ inch or so in width exposed. Ensure that there are NO breaks (voids) in this bead. Make sure to do the ENTIRE LENGTH of the drip rail from front to back. Smooth the bead down into the channel with your finger and wipe off any excess BEFORE IT DRIES with a paper towel. There may be a visible vertical split where the rail starts to curve down at the windshield, seal this split as well.
Allow the sealer to DRY for AT LEAST 2 hours. Then remove the tape by peeling it off from front to back. You will be left with a neat straight line of sealer in the “V” channel and a hopefully leak free seal again.
TIPS: Use the BLUE masking tape even though it is more expensive. It is WAY easier to work with, applies and releases easily, and leaves no residue or paint damage behind.
Make sure to allow the sealer to DRY before removing the tape, or you may open up a gap in your sealant.