DRL Removal for L-Series

[PowerByBrower]

This a very simple mod that completely removes the Daytime Running Lights from the L-Series.
*The example car is a 2002 L200.*

Time Required
10 minutes

Tools Required
Flat head screwdriver
Needlenose pliers
4 inch section of small gauge solid copper wire

Overview
Remove the DRL relay from the underhood fusebox and replace with a section of wire.


Step 1.
Use the screwdriver to pry up and remove the the DRL relay. It's the relay closest to the Change Oil Light reset button.

http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuke/modules/PNphpBB2/files/drl_mod_1.jpg

The circuit to be removed is the Pin 85 - Pin 86 circuit.
The circuit to be reconnected with wire is the Pin 87a - Pin 30 circuit.

Note that the wiring schematic on the side of the relay does not match up with the pin position. Go by the number next to the pin itself.

http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuke/modules/PNphpBB2/files/drl_mod_2.jpg

http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuke/modules/PNphpBB2/files/drl_mod_3.jpg

Step 2.
Use the needlenose pliers to bend the piece of wire as shown.

http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuke/modules/PNphpBB2/files/drl_mod_4.jpg

Step 3.
Insert the wires in the hole that correspond with Pin 87a and Pin 30. Use the needlenose pliers to push the wire all the way down until it seats firmly.

http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuke/modules/PNphpBB2/files/drl_mod_5.jpg

Step 4.
Replace the fusebox cover. Test that the DRL don't turn on and all other lights, particularly the brights, are working properly.

[splat]

That copper wire is way too thin. If you get a 14 gauge and crimp the ends, it'd be perfect...THis should be in the "How-To" section of the forums though...

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/253000-253999/253115_165_full.jpg

Crimped that then took a dremel to it to make it fit nice and snug...works perfect...

[PowerByBrower]

That copper wire is perfect for what I had to work with. it's the exact thickness as the flat pins that were in there originally. I tried pulling the wire out and it was quite difficult. Not as hard as pulling the relay out but that wire won't fall out accidentally.

The 16ga would be better only because it has insulation on it.

And I originally tried to post this in the How To section but I had too many pictures and when I tried went back to remove them, I couldn't. Being quite "flustered" about having to retype it all, I didn't realize where I was. :no: Sorry...

[PowerByBrower]

Very nice Splat, that's what I would have done if I hadn't used scrap soldering wire from the MIG welder at work. :p

[venusfan]

I guess it's nice that the how to is posted.. but why remove DRL? I think it's a nice feature and all cars should have it because I will always see that light.. and it also helps be see who's behind me at night because around here we have idiots who thinks that driving with parking lights at night is cool.. not knowing how dangerious that is if I'm trying to change lane and cant see you behind me because your headlight is not on.

[splat]

I wasn't too concerned about the wire itself coming out...just how well it'd take all the electricity loads over time...

[Jerry_Strn]

If you cut the circuit in the relay, it's not easily reversable (for example, your car is still under the warranty and you don't want to give them any excuse etc). Why not make it simple, like insert any non-conductive pad (a thick piece of paper or a plastic) between open contacts of the relay). After you start the engine, the DRL indicator (a green bulb) will flash a few times and then turns off. No DRL, and all other light are functional. In case you want to enable the DRL (go to a warranty service, sell the car, change your mind, whatever) just open that relay and simple remove the pad. That's it!

[PowerByBrower]

If you had to change it back to stock:
1. Pull wire out.
2. Take DRL relay out of glovebox.
3. Push DRL relay back into fusebox.
Takes < 1 minute...

There's no cutting of any other wires or relays. The DRL relay itself remains completely intact. It takes up new residence in your glovebox.

[PowerByBrower]

Originally posted by splat
I wasn't too concerned about the wire itself coming out...just how well it'd take all the electricity loads over time...
I don't think the electrical loads will be a problem at all. Consider how small the wires are for the turnsignals and sidemarkers. Those wires are the same diameter as that copper wire and they have insulation on them!

Still, I will replace my bare wire with something insulated soon because of the possible corrosion and shorting issues.

[splat]

Oh...maybe just from the pics they look really thin, but i guess that makes sense...haha...sorry man...

[SaturnRaycer]

Here's another alternative to the DRL issue.

[SaturnRaycer]

DRL's look kinda dopey - especially when the high beams are on at half power. GM has another variation of the DRL, and it looks pretty decent.

This setup is the Camaro/Firebird/Corvette/Olds Intrigue/Buick Century version. This has the turn signal filament (the bright one) on as the DRL. When the turn signal is selected, the cycle is the opposite of normal. Select the turn signal and the bulb goes Off, on, off, and back to on when the signal is canceled. (Normal has the turn filament come on when selected and off at the end)

What would it take to transfer the DRL function to the park/turn circuit from the high beam circuit? Is it practical or would it involve a whole lot of work for a subjective improvement?

[David 93 SL2m]

Originally posted by SaturnRaycer
DRL's look kinda dopey - especially when the high beams are on at half power. GM has another variation of the DRL, and it looks pretty decent.

This setup is the Camaro/Firebird/Corvette/Olds Intrigue/Buick Century version. This has the turn signal filament (the bright one) on as the DRL. When the turn signal is selected, the cycle is the opposite of normal. Select the turn signal and the bulb goes Off, on, off, and back to on when the signal is canceled. (Normal has the turn filament come on when selected and off at the end)

What would it take to transfer the DRL function to the park/turn circuit from the high beam circuit? Is it practical or would it involve a whole lot of work for a subjective improvement? It would take a few SPDT and SPST relays, some wires, some taps, and a pair of old parking light bulbs. This would be a cool project - the gears in my head are turning!

Didn't the 1991 - 1992 SC cars and the 1993 - 1996 SC2 cars in Canada use a DRL system such as this due to their pop-up headlights?

[SaturnRaycer]

Originally posted by David 93 SL2m
It would take a few SPDT and SPST relays, some wires, some taps, and a pair of old parking light bulbs. This would be a cool project - the gears in my head are turning!

Didn't the 1991 - 1992 SC cars and the 1993 - 1996 SC2 cars in Canada use a DRL system such as this due to their pop-up headlights?

That would be a good place to start looking for ideas, since Canadian cars have had DRL's for a good 10 years now.

Why would we need a pair of old parking light bulbs? The current GM set up uses the existing ones (unless it's to save "cooking" a new bulb).

If you use the existing relay and substitute the wire from the turn signal filament(bright) for the high beam wire it might just work.

An additional relay might be helpful especially if you have euro-style turn signal repeaters on the front fenders. That's something for another post, though. (the euro-style repeaters)

[David 93 SL2m]

Originally posted by SaturnRaycer
Why would we need a pair of old parking light bulbs? The current GM set up uses the existing ones (unless it's to save "cooking" a new bulb).

If you use the existing relay and substitute the wire from the turn signal filament(bright) for the high beam wire it might just work.

An additional relay might be helpful especially if you have euro-style turn signal repeaters on the front fenders. That's something for another post, though. (the euro-style repeaters) If we don't mind cutting the wires on the car from the factory then all we need is a pair of SPDT relays and some new wires.

I don't like to cut my factory wires so if I were to do this on any of my cars then I'd get extra parking light sockets and wire them up to the relays. For controlling the relays I'd take old turn signal bulbs, break the glass portion of each so the metal "posts" before the filaments are exposed, then solder "control" wires to those posts that are inside the bulbs and run them to the coils of the new relays. Then I'd plug these bulb bases into the sockets in the original wiring for the parking lights, and use the extra parking light sockets for the functioning bulbs. Of course we need to insulate the exposed metal parts on all these things to prevent shorts!

Doing it this way would require a pair of SPST relays for the grounding. We want the turn signal bulbs to be on when we're driving and we want them to flash when we use the turn signals, but we also want the turn signal bulbs to be off when the ignition is off! I guess it would be possible to be a bit more creative and tap into something that goes to ground when the ignition is on...

[astrodanco]

I guess it's nice that the how to is posted.. but why remove DRL?
I gather you're not an amateur astronomer and maybe you don't even know or care what an amateur astronomer is, but please take a friendly hint from an amateur astronomer: don't even THINK of driving out to or leaving from a star party after dark in a Saturn with DRL. You may not make it back to civilization alive. :no:

[binaryterror]

Well I don't really prefer the DRL...but will removing DRL kill my 2002 L300's auto headlight function. I wouldn't think so...but always safer to ask the dumb question now.

[L100]

The quicker way of doing it is to clip the 85 and 86 terminals from the relay and reinsert the relay back into its slot. Presto changeo no problemo. No DRL's, and no idiot light on the dash. I have been running my L100 like that for 4 years.

[Lafarga]

...maybe you don't even know or care what an amateur astronomer is...
What's an amature astronomer?

[astrodanco]

What's an amature astronomer?
Here's a good site that will explain:

http://www.sdaa.org