S-Series Camcover Gasket Replacement

[wolfman]

Saturn “S” series SOHC and DOHC Camcover replacement

Two types of camcovers are used on these cars, the silver ALUMINUM covers used on ALL SOHC engines and DOHC engines until 1995, and the BLACK composite (plastic) covers used on DOHC engines after 1995.

The aluminum covers require NO GASKET
The black composite covers require a gasket from Saturn or your local parts house

To change either type you will need:

Set of metric SOCKETS (6 point variety recommended) and for the SOHC a set of TORX bit drivers
1 can of “Brake Kleen”
1 Medium sized tube of RTV Form a gasket (and Gasket "kit" for 96’ and up composite covers)
Clean towels and perhaps a putty knife and scotch bright pad.

SOHC and DOHC to 1995 (Aluminum covers)
Proceed as follows:

On the SOHC, remove the two nuts holding the MAP sensor to the cover and slide the MAP sensor off toward the firewall (removing the air filter assembly first makes this WAY easier)
On the DOHC, unplug the electrical connector and vacuum lines from the EGR solenoid (you can leave the solenoid attached to the cover)
On BOTH engines, disconnect the PCV valve and breather hoses from the cover and set them aside.
On SOHC engines, remove the TWO TORX head bolts securing the cover.
On DOHC engines remove the bolts securing the cover to outside edges and center “well” of the cover and remove the plug wires from the spark plugs.
BOTH engines, remove the cover from the head. (If it sticks, wack it GENTLY with a wooden or rubber hammer or CAREFULLY pry up on one corner with a SMALL blade screw driver until the cover releases)

BOTH Engines, take the cover inside and WASH IT with dish soap and water until COMPLETELY oil and dirt free, use a scotch brite pad or putty knife to remove ALL TRACES of old RTV from the cover. Set aside to dry. Back out at the car, use a putty knife and scotch brite pad to scrub ALL TRACES of old RTV off the engine mating surface for the cover. Then spray the area with Brake Kleen to ENSURE IT IS COMPLETELY DEGREASED.

BOTH Engines, apply a gapless even 8mm (3/8 in) bead of RTV all around the outer perimeter of the COVER. On DOHC covers, do the same for the circles that meet the plug well holes. Set the cover aside.
BOTH Engines, Apply a thin bead of RTV to the ENGINE where the timing chain cover meets the head on the passenger side of the engine, there is a small “ridge” here on either side of the timing chain about ½ in or so long. It is this ridge you want to apply the RTV to.

BOTH Engines, CAREFULLY set the cover straight down onto the engine being CAREFUL not to smear the RTV.

On SOHC engines install the two TORX head bolts and snug them down. Torque spec is a very “loose” 10~12 foot pounds, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!

On DOHC Engines, reinstall the bolts and tighten gradually from the CENTER OUT to 8 ft pounds. This will seem very loose…DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN

On BOTH Engines…reinstall the hoses and electrical connectors you removed (now would be a good time to replace the PCV valve if you like)
On the SOHC, reinstall the MAP sensor and nuts.

1996 and UP DOHC with composite cover
Procedure is essentially the same EXCEPT, use the RTV VERY SPARINGLY on the cover to “glue” the gasket to the groove in the COVER. Like wise to “glue” the supplied “O” rings to the holes in the COVER for the plug wells. You STILL need to apply RTV to the “ridge” between the timing chain cover and engine mentioned above. The gasket set will also come with new “bolt isolators” for the bolts that go along the outer perimeter of the cover. These just pop in/out and require no additional sealer. While not “officially recommended” by the FSM, I always apply a THIN (finger smeared) layer of RTV to new gasket BOTH where it meets the cover AND where it will touch the engine when installed just to be sure of a perfect seal. I do the same thing with the supplied rubber “O” rings for the plug well holes.


TIPS:
CLEANLINESS MEANS SUCCESS! I cannot stress enough the importance of getting BOTH the engine and cover SQUEAKY CLEAN prior to reinstalling with the new gasket/RTV.

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS! You’ll strip out the bolt holes and be up the proverbial creek. If you don’t have a torque wrench, snug down the bolts GRADUALLY until they “feel” tight and NO MORE. DO NOT be tempted to wrench them down till they won’t turn anymore! You WILL break something.

[eljefino]

Do you let the RTV "skin" for 10 minutes before sticking it down?

Do you have a favorite "flavor" of RTV? I like the red hi-temp stuff; slow drying but reliable.

[wolfman]

YES, Let it "skin"
Ultra BLACK by Permatex.

[92saturnsl2]

Damn... Switched valve covers to a composite (plastic) today, and guess what? I can't get the damn spark plug wires on, nor can I bolt my EGR solenoid to the valve cover anymore.

Do 1996+ cam covers use a different spark plug wireset?

[Applefool]

The composite cover does require a different style plug wire boot. So yes, you would need wires for a 96 or later.

[94sc293sl1]

Since the procedure is usually done in response to the cover leaking oil, do you recommend blowing compressed air in/around the plug holes (DOHC model) while the top is off to get rid of leaked oil?

[wolfman]

Good question, but NO. Compressed air will just more the oil around for the most part. If desired (or needed) remove the spark plugs and allow the oil to run down into the cylinders where it will be harmlessly burned when the engine is started. Stuffing paper towels into a DOHC engines plug well holes will do an adequate job of removing any oil left coating the plug wells.

[Luke]

And, of course, as you all know, should there be excessive oil in any of the wells, a turkey baster used to remove the oil, can be very handy.

[Son93SL2]

Do you want pictures? I look a ton when I did mine... didn't know this thread existed...

[petdmc]

Originally posted by Son93SL2
Do you want pictures? I look a ton when I did mine... didn't know this thread existed...

i would like it :D

thx

BTW would you really need a gasket "kit"? cause a called around asking about a valve cover gasket and they an't cheap, $34- $53 at the dealer, $52.50 at Canadian and $82! at NAPA (not sure if its the kit or not)

can i do away with just the valve cover gasket? i also asked about the bolts and they're $6-10 each! just the BOLTS.

'96 SL2
189 250 kms and leaking oil in #4 cyl. (the far left)

[amazinghl]

You just need a gasket and a RTV. You can re-use the bolts.

[wolfman]

I have seen just RTV used successfully (and unsuccessfully) on the black composite type covers. I would recommend using the gasket with RTV in the right spots as well as a THIN coating around the gasket surfaces as posted. YES you CAN generally reuse the bolts with no problem.

[petdmc]

Originally posted by wolfman
I have seen just RTV used successfully (and unsuccessfully) on the black composite type covers. I would recommend using the gasket with RTV in the right spots as well as a THIN coating around the gasket surfaces as posted. YES you CAN generally reuse the bolts with no problem.

great, now the only problem is that i don't have a torque wrench :dazed:

[Luke]

Fm petdmc
great, now the only problem is that i don't have a torque wrench

But, keep in mind, the torque wrench must in in inches, not foot pounds
for the technical specifications are: 89 In-Lbs, which actually converts to 7.4 Ft-Lbs.

[Revwillie]

on the 93 DOHC, the bolts are T40 torx, right?

[sierrap615]

ether T40 or T45, i'm not sure

[Revwillie]

Originally posted by sierrap615
ether T40 or T45, i'm not sure

T-40. I did mine this week. no leaks so far.

[92saturnsl2]

Originally posted by petdmc
great, now the only problem is that i don't have a torque wrench :dazed:

Just gently snug them, you won't have any problems. Use a torque wrench only if you are super-anal.

[freakerz]

Personally, I have a 93 SL1 with no gasket for the cover, it uses a thin rubber for spill-proofing.. I've removed it several times, no gasket..

Only gaskets I've seen so far are for the TB and the EGR Valve

[dw97sc1]

Just changed cam cover gasket 2 hours ago. So far no leaks, but should I keep an eye on it?

Thanks for the help?

[92saturnsl2]

Originally posted by dw97sc1
Just changed cam cover gasket 2 hours ago. So far no leaks, but should I keep an eye on it?

Thanks for the help?

I'm assuming you own a 97 SC1? If you purchased the OEM gasket from Saturn, you probably shouldn't have to keep an eye on it, they usually take care of themselves.

If you went the RTV route, keep an eye on it for the next week or so.

Just check the oil level at every fillup, if it remains the same, you can be assured there are no leaks.

[sierrap615]

Originally posted by 92saturnsl2
If you went the RTV route, keep an eye on it for the next week or so.

i let a few guys up at school change mine four weeks ago, bad idea, should have done it my self. it had a small leak at first, in the last few days that small leak turned into all four spark plug holes being soaked.

[Razorbak]

Yeah, he showed me tonight. When he pulled the spark plug boot from cylinder #1, I thought he was cooking soup or something in there. I expected him to break out a spoon and start slurping! :D

[Chris101]

I just did this procedure on my car over the weekend, and the Haynes manual says to snug the bolts down to 22 ft lbs. Is Haynes in error with this?

[wolfman]

Haynes manual is WRONG. That should be 89 INCH LBS (about 8 ft lbs) Provided yopu did not strip out the threads on the bolts tightening them down, consider yourself LUCKY and leave well enough alone at this point. There is a chart of the torque specs for all "S" series posted in this section (How To)

[Thor4SL2]

I just did this procedure on my car over the weekend, and the Haynes manual says to snug the bolts down to 22 ft lbs. Is Haynes in error with this?

My Hayes manual (copyright edition 2000) says 22 Ft-lbs. for SOHC and 89 In-lbs. for DOHC. You either need a different edition or a different car. :dizzy:

[Chris101]

I followed the specs you posted rather than the Haynes manual. I figured if they needed to be snugged down more I could do it rather than risk stripping them out. I need to take it off again anyway. I don't have oil going into my spark plug holes anymore, but now it's leaking in the back just below the power stearing reservoir. :dizzy:

[Luke]

Fm Chris
but now it's leaking in the back just below the power stearing reservoir.



Fm Wolf's original instructions
Apply a thin bead of RTV to the ENGINE where the timing chain cover meets the head on the passenger side of the engine, there is a small “ridge” here on either side of the timing chain about ½ in or so long. It is this ridge you want to apply the RTV to. :yes: :yes:

Unfortunately, you'll now have to consider re-doing the job. :sneeze:

Also, may I suggest that you move your follow-up comments over to the Tech Talk forum, for this forum, How-To is used for submitting the actual procedures used by the tech/contributors. You'll get considerably more feedback over there......just a thought to consider.... ;)

[freakerz]

Just a quick emphasis..

DO put the cam cover on the head while the RTV isn't solid(only skinned).

I had to redo my gasket because the first time, I waiting 16hours to have it dried, then it leaked like ****, broke a gasket or somethin... oil got in the head with prestone.. had to take the head apart(as everyone must know :xeye: :p )

So put it on as soon as it is skinned, so it will mold itself to the head! :yes:

And you will have alot of :clock: saved ;)

[GangsterSk8er]

where could i get a torque wrench from?

[Luke]

Fm >>GangsterSk8er<<

>where could i get a torque wrench from?<... :no:

Just to alert you, you've placed your question/inquiry on the wrong forum. Any "questions or issues" should be raised over at

the Tech Talk forum. This (How-To) forum is solely for those who wish to input procedures which the author

recommeneds for accomplishing a particular work effort. Look upon this forum as a Library Source for procedures.

Individual problems or questions should be raised, as earlier said,
>>here<< (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14).

[JOKERSL2]

I have a question...

I was hoping to change the valve cover gasket on my car this week but it's raining cats and dogs....Would it still be ok to do if I put it under a car port? Should I have to worry about the moisture even if i cover the engine with towels?

[Luke]

Joker

Just to alert you, you've placed your question/inquiry on the wrong forum. Any "questions or issues" should be raised over at the Tech Talk forum. This (How-To) forum is solely for those who wish to input procedures which the author recommeneds for accomplishing a particular work effort. Look upon this forum as a Library Source for procedures. Individual problems or questions should be raised, as earlier said, >>Click Here to access the correct "Tech-Talk" forum<< (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14).

I re-phrased my alert; it appears that my "Here" was confusing.
:yes:

[Razorbak]

Luke: You should talk Charlie into making you a moderator of the How To forum. That way, you can move the inappropriate threads to the correct forum. (Seriously, you'd make a great moderator... you're doing it already, unofficially... just much less efficiently than if Charlie actually issued you a moderator key). :yes:

[Luke]

Thank you Razorbak, however, we should first do something with the "How-to Tips" label; It simply is confusing many to many people :yes:

But, we must remember, we atleast have this forum--like no other; And that includes its members.

[JOKERSL2]

You guys could just lock the topic and pin it up. And delete the irrelevant posts that are irrelevant to the topic at hand.

[Razorbak]

Thank you Razorbak, however, we should first do something with the "How-to Tips" label; It simply is confusing many to many people :yes:

But, we must remember, we atleast have this forum--like no other; And that includes its members.

Well, I posted an official nomination thread in the Community forum. :D

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?p=527378

[the_new_raceman]

So on the 98 DOHC if i have oil coming up in only the plug wells by the timing chain is everybody in agreement that it is a valve cover gasket?

[Thor4SL2]

So on the 98 DOHC if i have oil coming up in only the plug wells by the timing chain is everybody in agreement that it is a valve cover gasket?

That’s correct. The good news is unless you are loosing a noticeable amount of oil between changes you don’t need to be in any hurry to fix it. I noticed mine leaking last October, and it may have been leaking for more than a year at that time. With the cold weather I have not fixed it yet (March). It doesn’t seem to hurt anything.

[madpogue]

So on the 98 DOHC if i have oil coming up in only the plug wells by the timing chain is everybody in agreement that it is a valve cover gasket? Yes, but the issue isn't oil loss, it's contamination / deterioration of the plug wires/boots. In WAY less than a year, oil on the affected wires/boots can reduce the quality of the spark for those plugs, harming performance.

[the_new_raceman]

Ive been having an issue for a while now with oil in those 2 plugs. Ive also had a problem when im coming to a stop and i push the (new) clutch in it fluctuates in revs. Like ill stop and my normal is around 850rpm but itll drop from there to like 200rpm then up and down a couple times before it either levels out at 850 or it stalls. Could a deteriorating gasket be causing this? Oh and by the way the plug beside the timing chain was like black soup in a plug tube!! lol i think its time for that gasket eh?

[Razorbak]

Ive also had a problem when im coming to a stop and i push the (new) clutch in it fluctuates in revs. Like ill stop and my normal is around 850rpm but itll drop from there to like 200rpm then up and down a couple times before it either levels out at 850 or it stalls. Could a deteriorating gasket be causing this?

That sounds like a problem with the EGR valve.

[jimpennjr]

For a 96 SL1 SOHC I will need a T-40? And how many ft.-lbs or is it in-lbs.? Please help I am losing too much oil. A quart every 750 miles. Thanks in advance.

[Razorbak]

For a 96 SL1 SOHC I will need a T-40? And how many ft.-lbs or is it in-lbs.? Please help I am losing too much oil. A quart every 750 miles. Thanks in advance.

S-Series Torque Specifications, 1996 Cam Cover Bolt: 89 In-Lbs (10 Nm) (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44221)

Divide by 12 inches/foot to convert from in-lbs to ft-lbs (89 in-lbs / 12 in/ft = 7.4 ft-lbs).

Note: Most ft-lb torque wrenches are NOT accurate at this low a setting. Hence the advice to use an in-lb torque wrench for greater accuracy.

[Thor4SL2]

For a 96 SL1 SOHC I will need a T-40? And how many ft.-lbs or is it in-lbs.? Please help I am losing too much oil. A quart every 750 miles. Thanks in advance.

The leaking valve cover gasket will account for some of your oil loss, perhaps a few ounces, but I seriously doughty it could account for that much. (1 quart per 750 miles). :whoa: Before doing the valve cover try to find what else is using oil, otherwise you may just be wasting your time. You may even end up doing the whole job over again after replacing the valve guides, etc. :x

[trebuchet03]

I am another lucky winner of oil in the spark plug wells. I am re-doing the gasket for my parents 93 SW2. I can't seem to figure out how to disconnect the EGR solonoid from its wires. Can I remove the bolt connecting the EGR to the valve cover leaving the vacume lines and wires connected to the EGR?

Sorry if thats too much of a noob question, I drive and maintain my 626, unfourtunatly, my parents drive this poor saturn into the ground...

[sierrap615]

you can i beleave. just make sure its out of way when you put the cover back on or it will be a RTV mess.

[spyder05]

After installing the Saturn pre-fab gasket on the composite cover, do I have to have the engine idle for a certain period of time for the gasket to "heat cure"? I replaced the gasket on my 97 SC2 the other day and found a nice leak on the divers side.. arg.. looks like I will be doing the job again.

Thanks..

[sierrap615]

try checking the torque again. to tight or to loose can cause leaks, and after a few heat cycles gaskets can "set" for lack of a better term and need retorqued.

[TXTABBY]

I saw in my Haynes manual to torque the bolts to 89 in. lbs. which works out to just over 7 ft. lbs. 8 sounds about right. Also...u say

"BOTH Engines, take the cover inside and WASH IT with dish soap and water until COMPLETELY oil and dirt free, use a scotch brite pad or putty knife to remove ALL TRACES of old RTV from the cover. Set aside to dry."

Better to get a large plastic container with a lid to wash the valve cover, then take it to a garage where they can dispose of the waste 'soapy-oil' properly. That of have a friend take you to your local mechanic and have him clean it out for you...Don't just wash it out in your bathtub, letting the oil drain in the sewer system.

[TXTABBY]

"I just did this procedure on my car over the weekend, and the Haynes manual says to snug the bolts down to 22 ft lbs. Is Haynes in error with this?"

Well, I hope it was a SOHC! That one IS 22 ft.lbs. The DOHC is 89 in.lbs...about 8 ft.lbs. So the Haynes manual is right, just hope you're working on the right valve cover :)

[Heartbeat - '95 SL2]

Changed the gasket recently on my car with an aluminum cover, and have just 2 cents to add. I saved money by not using a gasket, just RTV. Reading other posts here where the preformed rubber gaskets leak later, I did not want to risk it, and an RTV-only seal pretty much means no leaking.

However, after removing the cover with the factory gasket and seeing how easy it was to remove and how there was no RTV to clean off the head surface, I had second thoughts. If I ever have to do this again, I'm guessing it's going to be a lot harder, both removing the cover and cleaning. Using a razor to cut through the RTV will work, but not sure how easy it will be to get a razor around some spots. Then, I'll have to clean RTV from the head surface. Around the back and timing chain side, there's not a lot of space for scrubbing.

Also, to remove old RTV, I used gasket remover which warns "do not get on painted or non-metal surfaces." Even though I was very careful when spraying this on the cover flange, some did drip down and ate the silver cover paint. With more patience, using brake clean and more scrubbing should be fine.

No leaks, so I'm good for now. If I ever have to take the cover off again, it'll probably be for more major work, so I'll let the mechanics deal with the now glued-down cover. :yes:

[SaturnTech]

You're absolutely right...the next poor ******* that has to do the job you just did incorrectly over will have a hell of a time. Should have just spent the money for the right gasket.

[Revwillie]

You're absolutely right...the next poor ******* that has to do the job you just did incorrectly over will have a hell of a time. Should have just spent the money for the right gasket.

He's talking about the aluminum cover that has no gasket, right? Mine didn't.

[SaturnTech]

He's talking about the aluminum cover that has no gasket, right? Mine didn't.

YES IT DOES ALL SATURN CAM COVERS HAVE GASKETS. The aluminum cam cover has a preformed gasket that you buy and install, just like it came from the factory. OR, you can be a hack and RTV the hell out of it until it leaks again and have a huge mess on your hands. Your cam cover most certainly DID have a gasket on it from the factory.

[Fricken eh!]

one tip I found that helps you not overtighten the cam cover bolts is the following. put a few drops of oil in the bolt shank prior to inserting it into the rubber washer/gasket. this makes it a lot easier for the bolt to turn inside of that. without the oil, there is a lot of friction, and you can't "feel" how tight the bolt is getting. the required TQ value is so low on those bolts that the friction between the bolt and the rubber piece makes getting an accurate TQ reading very hard. my $0.02...

[The_Lizard]

Hi folks, new member, took a first look under the black DOHC cover on my step-daughter's Saturn yesterday. (Darn fast and easy, my ride is a 98 Outback and you don't want to have to dive for heads on that boxer.)
She had oil flooding the #1 plug hole. I've just read all of this thread.

I removed the cover easily, but I could not easily get the old gasket off. I quit trying rather than rip anything up, so I just closed it back up again.
I think I'll pop it again, clean everything, and put in a thin bead of the black stuff.

Is there a trick to removing the old gasket? I couldn't even get a knife tip between it and the cover.

In other news, I'm also going to try to swap out the temp sensor, which is the other issue I've been reading about here.

[SaturnTech]

The cam cover gasket on the later model S Series with the black cover DOES NOT USE RTV. There is a rubber gasket and O-rings for the spark plug wells. It sits in a groove on the cover, DON'T be a hack and just RTV it. Grab the gasket with some pliers and pull it out, it will be hard and brittle. Spray it down with some brakleen, insert the new gasket and torque the bolts back down.

[The_Lizard]

Just as a follow-up, I haven't done the gasket yet. I replaced the temp sensor and the car is running well again, so now it's "wait and see" if simply opening, cleaning, and re-torquing will solve the #1 plug well flooding. I may get a chance to check it today (it's about 30 miles away). Meanwhile I told my step-daughter to keep an eye out for leaks.

I have no idea how long it was flooding like that, she just started using the car about 6 weeks ago and they said it was idle for about 2 years before that. So, ??? I'll keep you posted.