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View Full Version : Changing an S-Series Fuel Filter


skijay
09-16-2003, 09:22 AM
What is the procedure to change the fuel filter on a 97 "S" series? My haynes book stinks.

bbarbulo
09-16-2003, 10:22 AM
take out fuel pump fuse, try to start car, lift pass side wheel off ground, remove wheel, remove splash shield, and VOILA it's there... undo lines, use the tool for the upper line to unclip it, spill gasoline all over youself, :D put the new one in, put the lines back into the clips, and put the nuts back on, splashshiled back, wheel on, lower car, torque wheel, put fuel pump fuse back in, prime pump 3x then start.

if you have no experience, it's good to remove the battery from the car so there is no chance of sparking anywhere.

TedL
09-16-2003, 06:05 PM
I believe that should be "lift driver's side front wheel and remove it", unless they moved the filter between '96 and '97.

Saturn-Eh!
09-16-2003, 07:07 PM
Yup, should be driver's side wheel. The filter is bolted to the frame rail in the driver's side of the engine compartment.

And if you have long arms, it can be done from the top of the car without removing the wheel or raising the car...

TedL
09-16-2003, 07:18 PM
That's long, thin arms! I did my two while the car was already up on ramps, so actually skipped the wheel removal, etc. But reaching down past the other stuff to reach the connector at the bottom of the filter is a PITA, especially with the unfamiliar connector to disconnect. But I guess when you've done it often enough, you can do it by feel.

Again, unless the filter design changed from '96, I'd just follow the FSM recommendation to bleed the fuel pressure using the schrader valve in the line (catch with a rag/paper towels) and skip the fuse removal/crank routine. On the other hand, disconnecting the neg cable is always a good precaution.

sjt78
09-17-2003, 12:40 AM
Does anyone know if going aftermarket for the fuel filter is ok, or should I stick with OEM on this one? I know OEM is best for most of the other maintenance items (PCV, tran. filter, ECTS, etc.). Thanks for the instructions bbarbulo!

TedL
09-17-2003, 07:17 AM
I used Purolator fuel filters on my two, $20 at Advance Auto (and several of their corporate siblings). While Saturn list price on some of the other parts you mention is within 10 or 20% of aftermarket prices, the $47 list for the fuel filter is to me, not worth it, when I can get a quality aftermarket brand for less than half that. Almost the same % difference for the air filter, so Fram at Walmart wins out. On the other hand, list on the ATF filter and PCV valve appear to be within a buck of aftermarket retail, so I'd go for OE. Critical engine control parts like the ECTS or T-stat, I'm inclined to go for OE, unless a brand I trust is significantly cheaper, both in $ and %.

Try using http://www.awgoldenparts.com/ to look up Saturn list prices so you can make informed decisions.

eRic 02sc2
09-17-2003, 09:49 AM
get the instructions from saturn service. they are the best. haynes stinks alright. i use my haynes manual to keep a table from wobbling. also unless the aftermarket one includes the hose and instructions like the oem one, i'd stick to the oem saturn fuel filter.

TedL
09-17-2003, 09:51 AM
Purolator's has all the hoses, clips and Schrader valve included.

bbarbulo
09-17-2003, 10:11 AM
:dizzy: I was trippin... meant to say driver's side wheel... sorry :redface:

pcleiter
10-06-2003, 11:11 PM
I just finished changing the filter on my 93 SC2. Had I not gotten lots of info from this site before starting on the job, it would have been really difficult to do.

It took me about 2 hours from the time I pulled the first wrench from my tool box until I placed that wrench back in its drawer. The most difficult part was (actually) getting the battery out of the car - I didn't see the other screw that was holding it down on the left hand side! So, the filter part wasn't bad.

Key points from what I've gathered on this forum:
1) Removing the drivers side wheel and splash guard make the job much, much easier. The filter is right there.
2) Removing the battery is also key.
3) To get the filter detached from the engine side of the line, a special tool is required. Fortunately, my new filter (Fram) came with this tool.
4) Getting the speed nuts off of the old filter was one of the more difficult tasks in this job. I resorted to using a 1/4 socket w/o a wrench attached to spin these off and back on. I used a box end wrench to break them loose and tighten the up again.

My own personal additions to the advisories:
1) Believe what others have said about getting gas all over the place. It's nearly inevitable.
2) I used a 1'x2' mirror to check out the bottom of the car after I had the splash guard off. I'm not wild about crawling under the car, especially when gas could come splashing out of it. I was able to shine a flash light off the mirror to look around first, and then get my hands into all the necessary places.

Big thanks to everyone who has posted info on this job.

SL2abuser
10-07-2003, 08:11 AM
How often do you recommend changing the filter?

190,000 kms now - still original filter, no WOT lack of power issues...

ttreibel
10-12-2003, 12:08 PM
Change the filter after you get that one real bad tank of gas

jasonpopnc
02-06-2004, 10:41 PM
Originally posted by bbarbulo
prime pump 3x then start.



How do you do this???

Bsmith
02-06-2004, 10:51 PM
Get in, make like you are going to start it. IE put the key in the run position listen for the pump to run, when it stops do it again, and then a third time, then you should be set.

Razorbak
08-18-2004, 02:29 PM
Originally posted by TedL

Again, unless the filter design changed from '96, I'd just follow the FSM recommendation to bleed the fuel pressure using the schrader valve in the line (catch with a rag/paper towels) and skip the fuse removal/crank routine.

If you remove the fuse, crank the engine until it stalls, and then bleed the fuel pressure using the schrader valve, you will minimize the amount of fuel spilled during filter replacement.

dw97sc1
10-04-2004, 10:15 AM
Autozone's Filter did not come with the tool for taking off the engine side clip.

Eggyism
10-29-2004, 11:51 AM
Originally posted by bbarbulo
undo lines, use the tool for the upper line to unclip it, spill gasoline all over youself, :D

Light cigarette... :no: No i'm kidding

but yeah spill gas all over yourself!? Where do I sign!?!? :D

Vertigoomg
02-24-2005, 11:43 AM
Same here. Need help to find this critical tool.

Razorbak
02-24-2005, 11:45 AM
Same here. Need help to find this critical tool.

You should be able to find fuel line disconnect tools at any auto parts store or in the hardware section of Sears.