wolfman
08-30-2003, 03:22 AM
Saturn “S” series waterpump replacement.
The Saturn “S” series SOHC and DOHC waterpump is located on the lower front passenger side of the engine below the AC compressor (if equipped) to change it you will need:
Set of metric sockets (6 point recommended) 6 in extension and a socket wrench
Set of metric combination (open and box end) wrenches
Pair of pliers or channel locks
Drain pan capable of holding 2 Gallons
Form a gasket “Ultra black RTV”
1 gallon of antifreeze (GREEN Propylene Glycol for 91’-95’, DEXCOOL for 96’ and UP*
Can of “Brake Clean” spray
Clean dry rags or paper towels
Scotch bright or “non stick scrubbing pad”
“Maybe” a razor blade.
*Check the coolant reservoir cap for a sticker on 95’ and UP cars. GREEN sticker = Green coolant, PINK (or ORANGE) sticker = DEXCOOL.
NOTE: This CAN be done WITHOUT raising the front of the car, but WILL be easier if you do. (Remove inner splash shield if you raise the car for a “better look” and access, but again, not 100% necessary.) As always, DO NOT GET UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED BY A JACK ALONE! Directions are the same either way.
TO BE DONE ON A STONE COLD ENGINE ONLY!!!
Proceed as follows:
Position your drain pan under the radiator drain tap, it is located on the lower passenger side corner of the radiator on the engine side.
Open the drain tap on the radiator (there are a few different versions of this tap ALL are PLASTIC, most involve a half turn counterclockwise and a tug to open) some taps open right up with just your fingers, some will require the addition of a little pliers/channel lock work. BE CAREFULL not to damage the tap or radiator!
Remove the reservoir cap to make the coolant drain faster. When it’s down to a drip, reposition your drain pan under the water pump and remove the block drain plug located on the LOWER side of the waterpump’s housing in the BLOCK to drain the remaining coolant.
Loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the three bolts holding the waterpump pulley to the water pump BEFORE you remove the belt.
Release the tension on the belt tensioner by turning the bolt in it’s pulley’s center as though you were trying to TIGHTEN it, hold it there and remove the belt.
REMOVE the three bolts holding the pulley to the waterpump and remove the pulley
Remove the bolts securing the waterpump to the engine. USE A SIX POINT SOCKET for best results as they can be a challenge. MAKE SURE you get them all!
Remove the waterpump from the engine. If it sticks, and you are SURE you have removed ALL the bolts, whack the pump shaft with a rubber mallet or block of wood to knock it loose.
STUFF the cavity in the block with paper towels to COMPLETELY DRY it. Use your scotch brite pad, razor blade etc..to remove ALL traces of old sealer/gasket from the engine. Remove the rags, ensure that the sealing surface is COMPLETELY DRY and then spray it with Brake Clean to ENSURE it is ABSOLUTELY clean and grease free.
Put an even bead of gasket compound around the area of the new pump that contacts the gasket, set it aside. Place a similar bead of sealant around the ENGINE mounting surface the pump gasket will contact, then stick the gasket to the engine.
Place the pump CAREFULLY over the installed gasket (DON’T KNOCK THE GASKET OUT OF PLACE!) Install the pump bolts FINGER TIGHT all the way around.
Confirm that the gasket is still in place all the way around and then tighten the bolts, evenly, working from the center out, to 20 ft pounds. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!)
Reinstall the pulley on the waterpump and reinstall the belt. Retighten the pulley bolts after the belt is installed.
Replace the drain plug bolt in the bottom of the waterpump housing (torque spec 20 ft pds) Close the drain tap on the radiator.
SLOWLY add the ENTIRE GALLON of antifreeze to the reservoir tank checking for leaks at the pump and drain tap as you go, STOP if you spot a leak!. Refill the empty jug with clean water (distilled preferred but not 100% necessary) and add the water until the reservoir is full right up to the tippy top. LEAVE THE CAP OFF, and start the car, run engine for about 2 MINUTES. Top the reservoir up with WATER if needed to the “full cold” mark (the seam) PUT THE RESEVOIR CAP ON, restart the engine and run until the fan comes on, all the while checking for leaks.
NOTES: It is a good idea to flush the radiator PRIOR to removing the old pump since things are apart anyway.
The KEY to getting a LEAK FREE seal THE FIRST TIME, is to MAKE SURE the surfaces are SPOTLESSLY CLEAN, and that you DON"T knock the gasket out of place installing the pump.
If you wish you can replace the thermostat now as well (not required but why not..)
NEVER REMOVE OR REPLACE THE RESEVOIR CAP ON A HOT ENGINE!TO BE DONE ON A STONE COLD ENGINE ONLY!!!
The Saturn “S” series SOHC and DOHC waterpump is located on the lower front passenger side of the engine below the AC compressor (if equipped) to change it you will need:
Set of metric sockets (6 point recommended) 6 in extension and a socket wrench
Set of metric combination (open and box end) wrenches
Pair of pliers or channel locks
Drain pan capable of holding 2 Gallons
Form a gasket “Ultra black RTV”
1 gallon of antifreeze (GREEN Propylene Glycol for 91’-95’, DEXCOOL for 96’ and UP*
Can of “Brake Clean” spray
Clean dry rags or paper towels
Scotch bright or “non stick scrubbing pad”
“Maybe” a razor blade.
*Check the coolant reservoir cap for a sticker on 95’ and UP cars. GREEN sticker = Green coolant, PINK (or ORANGE) sticker = DEXCOOL.
NOTE: This CAN be done WITHOUT raising the front of the car, but WILL be easier if you do. (Remove inner splash shield if you raise the car for a “better look” and access, but again, not 100% necessary.) As always, DO NOT GET UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED BY A JACK ALONE! Directions are the same either way.
TO BE DONE ON A STONE COLD ENGINE ONLY!!!
Proceed as follows:
Position your drain pan under the radiator drain tap, it is located on the lower passenger side corner of the radiator on the engine side.
Open the drain tap on the radiator (there are a few different versions of this tap ALL are PLASTIC, most involve a half turn counterclockwise and a tug to open) some taps open right up with just your fingers, some will require the addition of a little pliers/channel lock work. BE CAREFULL not to damage the tap or radiator!
Remove the reservoir cap to make the coolant drain faster. When it’s down to a drip, reposition your drain pan under the water pump and remove the block drain plug located on the LOWER side of the waterpump’s housing in the BLOCK to drain the remaining coolant.
Loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the three bolts holding the waterpump pulley to the water pump BEFORE you remove the belt.
Release the tension on the belt tensioner by turning the bolt in it’s pulley’s center as though you were trying to TIGHTEN it, hold it there and remove the belt.
REMOVE the three bolts holding the pulley to the waterpump and remove the pulley
Remove the bolts securing the waterpump to the engine. USE A SIX POINT SOCKET for best results as they can be a challenge. MAKE SURE you get them all!
Remove the waterpump from the engine. If it sticks, and you are SURE you have removed ALL the bolts, whack the pump shaft with a rubber mallet or block of wood to knock it loose.
STUFF the cavity in the block with paper towels to COMPLETELY DRY it. Use your scotch brite pad, razor blade etc..to remove ALL traces of old sealer/gasket from the engine. Remove the rags, ensure that the sealing surface is COMPLETELY DRY and then spray it with Brake Clean to ENSURE it is ABSOLUTELY clean and grease free.
Put an even bead of gasket compound around the area of the new pump that contacts the gasket, set it aside. Place a similar bead of sealant around the ENGINE mounting surface the pump gasket will contact, then stick the gasket to the engine.
Place the pump CAREFULLY over the installed gasket (DON’T KNOCK THE GASKET OUT OF PLACE!) Install the pump bolts FINGER TIGHT all the way around.
Confirm that the gasket is still in place all the way around and then tighten the bolts, evenly, working from the center out, to 20 ft pounds. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!)
Reinstall the pulley on the waterpump and reinstall the belt. Retighten the pulley bolts after the belt is installed.
Replace the drain plug bolt in the bottom of the waterpump housing (torque spec 20 ft pds) Close the drain tap on the radiator.
SLOWLY add the ENTIRE GALLON of antifreeze to the reservoir tank checking for leaks at the pump and drain tap as you go, STOP if you spot a leak!. Refill the empty jug with clean water (distilled preferred but not 100% necessary) and add the water until the reservoir is full right up to the tippy top. LEAVE THE CAP OFF, and start the car, run engine for about 2 MINUTES. Top the reservoir up with WATER if needed to the “full cold” mark (the seam) PUT THE RESEVOIR CAP ON, restart the engine and run until the fan comes on, all the while checking for leaks.
NOTES: It is a good idea to flush the radiator PRIOR to removing the old pump since things are apart anyway.
The KEY to getting a LEAK FREE seal THE FIRST TIME, is to MAKE SURE the surfaces are SPOTLESSLY CLEAN, and that you DON"T knock the gasket out of place installing the pump.
If you wish you can replace the thermostat now as well (not required but why not..)
NEVER REMOVE OR REPLACE THE RESEVOIR CAP ON A HOT ENGINE!TO BE DONE ON A STONE COLD ENGINE ONLY!!!