S-Series Radio Removal/Install thru 1999

[wolfman]

You'll need:
Phillips head screw driver or small punch (95-99 model years)
Short handled blade screw driver to aid in trim and radio removal
A small size metric socket set

.For 91'-94' "S" series cars.
Remove the ashtray and cigarette lighter.

Remove fuse box and driver's side footwheel center console kickpanels (Both just pop off)

Remove the center radio/vent surround trim panel by CAREFULLY pulling out at the TOP where it meets the dash, then at the center and then lifting it up slightly to clear the center console front. It should pop right out.

Remove the 4 screws holding the radio to the metal dash plate underneath and slide the radio forward.

Unplug the antenna and wiring harness plug and remove the radio from the dash.

Install is reverse.



For 95'-99" "S" series cars:

On either side of the trim panel in the right and left foot wells you will see small round plastic "rivets" that resemble targets in appearance. Using a small punch or phillips head screw driver CAREFULLY press IN the center portion and then pull OUT the outer portion of each one. BE CAREFULL NOT TO LOSE THE LITTLE CENTER PORTION PEGS!

Lift up on the lower portion of the trim piece and pull forward and up to release it. You can either disconnect the wiring harness for the DEF switch panel at the top or just drape the whole thing up on the dash. (Disconnection recommended)

Remove the screws holding the radio to the metal panel underneath it and slide the radio forward.
IMPORTANT!
BEFORE you disconnect the antenna and wiring harness if the radio has a "Theft Deterrant" label on the upper right hand corner of the face plate, MAKE SURE you have the security code! If you do not, you will essentially be unable to use the radio once power has been cut to it! If all is well here, disconnect the antenna and wiring harness and pull the radio out of the dash.

Install is reverse...When reinstalling the plastic "rivets" that hold the trim panel on, put the LARGER portion in place FIRST, and when you are sure the position is correct, push the SMALL inner portion IN from the FRONT until it is flush with the outer portion.

IF you are installing an aftermarket deck..
I highly recommend you purchase BOTH an installation kit AND a wiring harness adapter and antenna adapter. The installation kits are available at just about any stereo store or from Crutchfield online or catalog. Wiring harness adapters are available at Walmart in the automotive stereo section. (GM wiring harness adapter for what ever year Saturn your car is will work)

[epicdori]

Something that I found out the hard way. When you install a high power deck and the fuse blows, it may not be the "radio" fuse it many be the "chimes" fuse. I spent two hours trying to figure out why my radio would not work when it worked for a few minutes and the fuse looked good, lol.

[gm7]

Did an aftermarket install this weekend on a '96 SC2 so will add to Wolfman's excellent contribution.
- As Wolfman suggested...removing the plastic mandrel rivets will allow removal of plastic center stroud cover...the whole thing is removed, not just the front facia. The shroud is pulled rearward in car for removal. I suggest removing the connector and not flipping up the center shroud/cover with the defroster connector intact. The connector is dislodged by squeezing together the center of the connector.
- To remove the factory radio, one must remove the two 1/4" hex screws "above" the two top corners of the radio. The radio will still be firmly attached. Take a blade screw driver and press in each spring steel tab, one on each side of the radio...that firmly attaches the radio in place. Press these tabs flush and you can now ease the radio out rearward in car. Disconnect both the large GM generic connector and the antenna co-ax.
-Installation of an aftermarket deck is pretty straightforward. No instructions come with the installation kit which has a pocket on top of the DIN opening to accommodate an aftermarket deck. The only non-intuitive part is how to securely attach the pocket/radio opening to the car's structure so the radio will be firmly connected. Within the DIN opening of the installation kit are a couple of tabs that one must break away to free up the rectangular window opening for the radio installation. If you look close, these are handed...L & R. There are + like tabs that interlock these ears to the backside of the little parcel shelf that is integrated into the installation kit. Snap these in place. Then when you connect the installation kit to the car's body, reuse the two screws that secured the factory radio to the car just above where the original radio was located.

Last hint is to double check manual heater controls before buttoning it all back up as the soldered together universal connector may have stray wires that impede heater control function...so check your heater controls before reinstalling the center shroud cover.

In summary, installing an aftermarket CD head unit really demonstrates just how marginal the stock sound system is. For those wondering...the original head unit is a weaker link then the modest speakers that come in these cars.
Without changing the speakers and even without a post amp, the late model Kenwood deck I just installed sounds terrific.

Thanks to those that contributed to all other related threads on installing an aftermarket head unit. Be sure to use the search function as now I believe all the information is available to those that want to take on this job.
George

[jasonpopnc]

www.scosche.com sells both wire harness/antenna adapter and the install kit for saturns.

These are what my local wal-mart sells (much cheaper), how ever they did not carry the install kit - had to get it through scosche.com

[ud503j]

I have a 97 SW2 with the removable 'pod' console in the middle.

I frequently remove the pod to gain access to the subframe underneath...I ran my GPS unit power cable from the 12v 'always on' line that I have coming in through the firewall grommet, as well as some other mods I have running under there.

...anyway...replaced those stupid plastic push-rivets with velcro on the inside of the pod shell and the metal beams underneath. Keeps from always having to push the little buttons on those stupid rivets and losing them.

I bought both me and the g/f's radios through Crutchfield and got both free adaptor kits and free harnesses. Only dissapointment was that my kit basically takes away the little 'pocket' that used to exist above the stock radio.

ps...apologies for resurrecting a rather old thread.