Clutch Replacement

[ssicarman]

Clutch R&R My Way
Instructions Are for S-series Cars

This is usually the way I do it at work.

Much easier if you have a hoist to run the car up and down. Assuming that you don't so try and get the car as high into the air as you can, SAFELY OF COURSE

The engine will need to be supported, either by an engine support from the top or something from below that will not be in the way or get knocked over and drop the engine on you. From the top is likely the best.

On the top:
Remove the air intake, battery, battery tray/air filter box. Clean off dirt from around the shifter tower/control and the dipstick area. Disconnect the shifter cables from the shifter tower and from the trans. Disconnect the reverse switch connecter from the shifter tower, the speed sensor connecter from the transmission and the coolant temperature sensor connecter from the engine. On top of the trans by the dipstick is a locator bracket/mount for the trans. Remove the two bolts for it from the trans and flip it up out of the way. Remove the two upper trans to engine bolts. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the trans.Two nuts to get the bracket loose and then push in and twist the slave out. Place it out of the way where it will not get damaged. Move the wiring up out of the way it will be good idea to try and do something to keep it up out of the way. Now remove the shifter tower and dipstick from the trans (you'll need a new gasket). You should now be done on top of the car. Install the engine support.

Remove the left front tire and the axle nut from the left front. The axle nut can be removed with the wheel on the ground or in the air, in the air just put a screw driver into the brake rotor through the brake caliper. Take off the ball joint cotter pin (replace with new) and nut. Break the ball joint taper loose from the hub and move the strut off of the ball joint. Take a hammer and TAP the axle in to get it loose in the hub. Remove the two plastic shields from the wheel well hiding the trans. Drain the fluid from the trans. Install the drain plug and tighten it NOW not later, you'll forget later. Use a pry bar on the left side axle at the trans to remove it from the trans, pry between the case and the inner constant velocity joint. Pull the axle out of the hub and then out of the transmission and remove from the car.

Right side axle
Remove the three bolts on the support hanger and pull the axle out of the trans to pull the snap ring free. It will not come out all the way yet. At the engine to transmission, remove the two bolts holding the support bracket to the trans. Remove the three bolts holding the tin shield inspection cover to the trans. Remove the two lower engine to trans bolts. Now the only thing holding the trans in should be gravity and two locating dowels. What has to be done now is to remove the transmission from the engine and coerce it into the opening between the lower engine cradle frame and the car frame. This takes turning and tweaking the transmission from below (usually the best way) while at the same time trying to get the right side axle out of the trans without damaging the axle seal. Once the trans is in the opening it will rest there very nicely (if you have it jammed in well enough) giving you just enough room to get to the clutch and remove that.


Installation is merely the reverse!!!!!

I have likely forgotten something so if it don't make sense think it over. If it still doesn't make sense ASK.

If you decide to do it good luck.

Tom
Ssicarman


P.S. there is another way to do it but it involves (in my opinion) a lot more work. The frame has to come out

[ionmy1]

is this for a particular car,or just a general ref?

[ssicarman]

:x :rolleyes:

Sorry all.

Like I said "I have likely forgotten something".

The something that I forgot is that the instructions are for the S-series.

[ionmy1]

hehe, no big deal... it's only the most relevant piece of information you could give!! nice details tho,

[mkosem]

this shift tower gasket of which you speak....What does it look like and where can one get it?

--Matt

[ssicarman]

The shifter tower is what the shifter cables attach to on the trans, it takes the movement of the cables into the trans. Held on by four bolts. Most likely the best and only place to get it is from Saturn. Not real expensive.

[Ben Rush]

Awsome Post, I'm going to embark on this endevour this weekend. This is gonna be by far the most complicated job I've done on my car. Wish me luck, and if you've got any tips please post em!

[billc]

What does it typically cost to replace the clutch if you do it yourself??

What does it typically cost if you have your Saturn Dealer do it??

[vtunderground]

Thanks for posting this, my car is getting up in miles and I see a clutch replacement in my future.

[Russ Bellinis]

Originally posted by billc
What does it typically cost to replace the clutch if you do it yourself??

What does it typically cost if you have your Saturn Dealer do it??

I'm not sure of the cost to diy, it would depend on parts cost and how many tools need to rent. Local Saturn dealer charges $1600.00 for a clutch replacement including new hydraulics. It may be less expensive in places with lower labor costs than So Cal.

[92saturnsl2]

Get a LUK (oem) kit off Ebay for less than 150$ shipped. It's probably the best and cheapest kit out there if you're not doing anything performance-oriented. That and 2.5 quarts of ATF is all that's needed to do the job.

I got a quote in the ballpark of 900$ from the Saturn dealership, thats just the clutch replacement, no hydraulics.

The ACT performance clutch kit alone costs 400-500$, all the other cheaper "performance kits" will cause crankwalk and premature thrust bearing wear.

[jviper777]

I'm such a novice I might have made a mistake trying this. I am in my 10+ hour and I haven't gotten to the clutch yet.
I'm finally on the right side.

1. On your instructions you list right side axle. I'm assuming that is the passengers side?

2. It says to removing the two bolts holding the support bracket to the trans. Where is that? And the same thing for the other five bolts you listed. There are a lot of bolts and I'm tired of pulling the wrong ones. Got any pictures?

Thanks for your help.

1994 SL1

[92saturnsl2]

Which support bracket are you talking about??

The bracket which attaches the engine block to the transmission is held on by a few 15mm bolts. You should see it directly above the exhaust, where it runs by the engine / tranny.

The intermediate shaft is attached to the backside of the engine with two 15mm (?) bolts. You will have to crawl under the car to where you can see the backside of the engine to see them.

[jviper777]

Right side axle
Remove the three bolts on the support hanger and pull the axle out of the trans to pull the snap ring free. It will not come out all the way yet. At the engine to transmission, remove the two bolts holding the support bracket to the trans. Remove the three bolts holding the tin shield inspection cover to the trans. Remove the two lower engine to trans bolts.

What am I looking for?

[92saturnsl2]

Exactly what I'd posted earlier.

The support bracket mentioned, is a bracket which attaches the engine to the transmission. It is located directly above where the exhaust is.

The intermediate shaft is attached via a hanger, which is bolted to the rear of the engine block. You'd have to crawl under the car where you could see the backside of the engine to see it.

[jviper777]

Okay, I think I've completed all the instructions from above but, the transmission will not seperate from the engine. Im probably missing something. Any hints?