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View Full Version : Reverse "Slam" Cure in Saturn Autotransaxles


wolfman
08-18-2003, 12:09 AM
NOTE: This proceedure "can" often cure a delayed engagement or reverse (reverse slam) in Saturn autotransaxles PROVIDED you have not waited "too long"

DO NOT MAKE UP YOUR "OWN VERSION" follow the instructions exactly...

The "works nearly everytime" cure for the reverse "slam"

1. Change the transaxle fluid and filter (use "conventional" not synthetic fluid)
2. Add your choice of automatic transmission fluid additive (transmedic, Lucas etc...personal choice, Prolong auto transmission additive)
3. Start the car firmly set the parking brake, chock the wheels and or back it up against a firm immovable object (A brick wall works well)
4. Put the car in REVERSE and LEAVE IT THERE, RUNNING, IN REVERSE, for about 20-30 mins at idle.

What this does is use the clean transaxle fluid and additive to flush out the reverse passage in the valve body by simulating driving in reverse for about 10 miles. IT WILL NOT HARM THE TRANSAXLE OR ENGINE IN ANY WAY. After completing this proceedure, (99 times out of 100) your reverse slam will vanish for at least several months and maybe forever (actually usually forever is a better description) Maintain the transaxle correctly from that point forward. If it initially does not work for long, you can REPEAT the proceedure without changing the clean fluid and sometimes net good results BUT if after 2 tries things have not improved you are probably looking at valve body replacement. YOU MUST CHANGE THE FLUID FIRST! Doing this with "dirty" fluid still in the transaxle may actually make it WORSE. Also "normal" transmissiopn "flushes" WILL NOT cure this problem, as they don't feed enough "warm" clean fluid through the valve body for long enough.

webacraft
08-18-2003, 06:49 PM
Wolfman

Tried your fix using "Slick 50" Tranny additive.

It was thick as STP.

Followed proceedure exactly, didn't work. Do you think it was because additive was too thick?

Has anyone used "slick 50" (the real thick stuff) with success?

Thought I would try an over the counter "flush" then new fluid again and "prolong".


I am an aircraft mechanic and inspector so mechanically replacing valve body doesn't scare me. Is there some re-calibration other than the "learn" capability of the PCM?I have a 1992 SC parts car (same slam problem) and it only took 30 minutes to pull the valve body.

VBX (Valve Body Express) at 866-243-8829 sells a rebuilt, waranteed valve body for $199 (they don't have a web site).
I am considering that option.

wolfman
08-20-2003, 01:24 PM
Valve body replacement "can" actually be EASIER in a Saturn because the valve body is on TOP of the transaxle and replacement can be done FROM ABOVE without removing the tranasaxle from the car. I would strongly suggest getting the exploded diagram of the transaxle from http://www.Alldata.com before attempting it however, as there are only certain bolts that need to be removed and others that pretty much MUST be left alone. Remove the wrong ones and it is easy to lose small parts by having them fall down INSIDE the transaxle. If that happens, the transaxle must be removed and disassembled to retrieve them. Once the new valve body is in place, just a PCM reset (unhook neg battery cable for 15 Seconds) is all that is required for the PCM to "start from scratch" and deal with the new pieces.

MydnightMyst
08-22-2003, 12:59 AM
Yes, I was going to type that. If you have a slam going into reverse, your valve body is done and needs to be replaced.
It's even easier if you have three of them in a rotation. Hehehe. I have one in the car, one in pieces ready to be rebult and one rebuilt, ready to go in the car.
I go through transmissions like candy, but valve bodies are the sugar.. Hense why I have the rotation thing going.
Of course, not everyone races like I do, so the rotation may be a bit extreme.
My suggestion, if you need your valve body repaired or replaced, is to either do it yourself or pay to have a new one installed. Getting your old one rebuilt costs almost the same as getting a new one, dealership wise. Tranny shops may have a better deal.
Before I started rotating valve bodies, I ran into a racing emergency and I only trust the tranny guy at Saturn of Dayton South. Well, they didn't have any new valve bodies and only one rebuld kit at the North facility.. No difference in charges though. Ouch..
Yet oh so worth the money when, even on an ailing tranny, I STILL had the fastest Saturn at the dragstrip. :)

webacraft
08-22-2003, 08:14 PM
What does the kit cost? Where do you get yours?
Do you replace the pressure regulator spool, or the reverse spool?
How about the solenoids? I called alldata and they said the exploded diagram of the valve body doesn"t show the check ball location. (I took my spare body apart and they fell out, luckily on the bench) Anyone got a diagram they could E-mail me or where I can find a good Saturn tranny manual? Does anyone know if a 1992 DOHC and 1993 SOHC valve body are the same?
Thanks, Bill, central Texas.

wolfman
08-22-2003, 09:11 PM
If you can get a warranteed rebuilt valve body for $199, BUY IT! It'll save you major hassles and that is about 1/3 of new from Saturn!

meseville
08-25-2003, 04:52 PM
Could this proceedure be done with the drive wheels raised off the ground on jack stands and the brakes off? The reason is this would reduce the heat load on the engine (overheating) and, in my opinion, would be less dangerous than leaving a car unattended in reverse & the brakes on.

Bob

wolfman
08-25-2003, 09:58 PM
Originally posted by meseville
Could this proceedure be done with the drive wheels raised off the ground on jack stands and the brakes off? The reason is this would reduce the heat load on the engine (overheating) and, in my opinion, would be less dangerous than leaving a car unattended in reverse & the brakes on.

Bob

NO (See "Don't make up your own version" on the original post..)
You WANT to raise the pressure through the valve body (what letting it sit with the wheels stationary in gear does) AND you WANT the transaxle to heat up (to allow the fluid with the additive to better flush out the clogged passages that are the cause of the problem) This should NOT cause a car with no cooling system or radiator fan isssues to overheat as it is essentially the same thing as sitting stuck in traffic only you'll be in reverse.. I never said to "leave the car unattended" just to "leave it there, running in reverse". Leaving a car in gear and running up on jackstands is far more dangerous than leaving it sitting on the ground, imagine what would happen if it fell off the jackstands in gear and running!

pcleiter
09-04-2003, 08:19 AM
Interesting procedure.

I've been experiencing trouble with the transmission in my 93 SC2 (135k) for a few months now, fortunately (maybe) I only drive about 10-15 miles a week on average.

After my father-in-law read me the riot act for not changing the fluid for the past 40k miles, we took it to a reputable shop to have it diagnosed. Their advise was to have it torn down and rebuild to a tune of $1800-$2400.

We figured that I might as well wait until it died completely before shelling out the cash. In the mean time we figured we'd tinker with it and see if it could be salvaged. We didn't want to replace the fluid all at once fearing that the cleansers in the new fluid might make sludge break up in clumps and cause more problems so we changed the filter, drained 1 quart and put in a fresh quart. I ran it for 2 weeks like that, then did the filter again and 2 quarts replacement.

At my FIL's suggestion, I've been letting the car sit in reverse for 10-15 minutes every few days to flush out the reverse mechanism.

Short point to this story is that I think it is working. Tonight I am doing a full change on the transmission and will let it sit in reverse as you recommended.

Thanks for your tip. It's good to know that we might be on the path to salvaging the transmission.

amazinghl
09-05-2003, 12:14 AM
Use Moble 1 Syn. ATF, it shift so much better.. :)

pcleiter
09-30-2003, 12:39 PM
I'm finally getting back with a followup on my previous post.

I did a full trans fluid and filter change about 3 weeks ago. I included a transmission additive that my father-in-law picked up from Saturn. I drove around the neighborhood a bit, noticed that the forward shifting was a bit smoother. Then I set the car in reverse as prescribed for 1/2 hour. I took the car for a long drive (2 hours) out the freeway, through some rural roads to my wife's workplace, and then back again. On the way back I was in some stop & go traffic towards the last 2 (of about 20) miles on the freeway after a good 65 mph cruise. The transmission didn't seem to want to go into 3rd gear and then the SES light came on. It did finally go into 3rd while I was on the road. I stopped at the market to do some shopping, came out about an hour later. The car started and drove fine, no trouble getting into 3rd then. I later checked the code and found that it indicated a problem with going into 3rd gear (11-23?).

The car was out again last week for the same trip up to my wife's work, but this time it sat in the lot for about an hour before starting the commute home. The outside temp was hotter, however. Traffic was extremely heavy stop & go on the last leg, and no problems with the shifting.

Shifting into reverse comes much easier, although not as well as it should. It still requires some reving when the car is well warmed up, maybe up to 1300 rpm. Today I coughed up $180 to have Saturn do a diagnosis on the trans. Their conclusion: valve body replacement, $900. My reasoning for taking it to them at this point was to rule out the pressure nut, and other possible problems (bad pump). I'm going to get the car back w/o having the work done, and continue my course with trying to salvage the valve body. I'm hoping that part of the reason that it has not gotten much better yet is because the car has had only less than 700 miles put on it since I first began this process, and most of those miles have been for short (under 10 miles) trips.

I may put synthetic fluid in the transmission at my next change. I'm a bit leary of doing it all at once; I wonder if I should introduce it slowly since the car has so many miles on it (ie: 3 quarts regular fluid, 1 quart synthetic). Any thoughts on this?

In a related thread, someone had questioned why the additive is included in the change. I'm no mechanic, but I'll share my ideas: 1) Additives usually have detergents in them that will help to break down sludge and varnish inside the valve body, thus improving the flow of fluid through them and unsticking valves that might have build-up on them; 2) also, additives often advertise that they will lower the operating temperature of the trans. If they do in fact do this, it would help to keep the viscosity of the fluid, and consequently the pressure, higher.

An big thanks to all who have posted what they know of this problem.

Tiger
05-17-2004, 10:26 PM
This fix worked nicely on my 99 SL2. Changed fluid, added Prolong, and idled car in reverse 1/2 hour using my ramps as a big wheel chuck. The noise was gone, transmission never sounded better! :)

Tiger
05-17-2004, 10:39 PM
This fix worked nicely on my 99 SL2. Changed fluid, added Prolong, and idled car in reverse 1/2 hour using my ramps as a big wheel chuck. The noise was gone, transmission never sounded better! :)

webacraft
05-20-2004, 10:49 PM
Try the "reverse slam" cure first. It does work if you have a gummed up or fine metal contaminated valve body. I tried it and it didn't work. I ordered an ATSG (Automatic transmission Service group) Saturn TAAT manual 800-254-7722 or 305-670-4161 www.transonline.com or www.atsgmiami.com
Good thing I did. Any good "shade tree" mechanic can pull the valve body in 30 minutes to an hour. READ THE BOOK FIRST! It will tell you everything you need to know about the Saturn TAAT tranny, it even has exploded diagrams of the valve body. You take out the battery and battery holder and the valve body is right under the cover on the top of the transmission. Be sure to get ALL the dirt off the of the tranny cover especially around the bolts and between cover and tranny, you don't want ANY crud falling into the transmission. (if you have the Anti-lock brakes it takes a little longer because you have to unplug the electrical connector, take the two nuts off that connect the master cylinder to the booster and move the whole ABS and master cylinder forward and then up slightly so you can get the transmission cover off, DON'T disconnect any brake lines, you dont have to.) The book shows what bolts to leave in the valve body so all the parts don't fall apart into the transmission (page 75, figure 172). I found a broken spring and scored bore in my valve body (been a couple of months but believe it was the orange spring in the line pressure regulating valve) The ATSG book is amazing!! I had a spare valve body from a 92 (mine is 93) and the book told me how to determine if it was a "second design" (they changed in mid 92) The book also told me that the 92 had the wrong solenoids (actuators) so I used mine from the 93. I believe that 93 thru 99 use the same valve body, Wolfman, can can confirm this? If you get a valve body from the guys in my earlier post or a wrecking yard the replacement is very easy. be sure to get a transmission pan gasket, Try AMMCO transmission or Saturn dealer. I was very careful and saved mine then used the "brush in can" permatex aircraft gasket sealer. DON'T USE RTV OR SILICONE. If a chunk of it squeezes out inside the tranny you will have REAL problems. go real easy with the permatex or better yet use a new gasket and no sealer. I'll help any way I can.

amazinghl
05-21-2004, 09:15 AM
Originally posted by pcleiter

I may put synthetic fluid in the transmission at my next change. I'm a bit leary of doing it all at once; I wonder if I should introduce it slowly since the car has so many miles on it (ie: 3 quarts regular fluid, 1 quart synthetic). Any thoughts on this?


Do it all at once, it's not like you can make it any worst.

rjm65
08-02-2004, 01:58 PM
Why is synthetic ATF not recommended for this procedure? Is any specific additive recommened for the slam fix or is straight ATF the way to go?
TIA,
Raymond

Tiger
08-02-2004, 09:07 PM
Originally posted by rjm65
Why is synthetic ATF not recommended for this procedure? Is any specific additive recommened for the slam fix or is straight ATF the way to go?
TIA,
Raymond

Wolfman explains in this link why sythetic is not recommended.


http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php3?s=&postid=435150#post435150

Did you read the first post by Wolfman? He gives sample of transmission additive you can use, and his
"personal choice, Prolong auto transmission additive". I had a bottle, so I used the Prolong with great success. The additive will help dissolve what is gumming up things, along with conventional transmission fluid which will get hotter and do a better job of dissolving things. ;)

sierrap615
08-02-2004, 10:58 PM
Originally posted by wolfman
I recommend non-sythetic ATF as part of the reverse "slam" fix because most transmission additives work better with non-sythetic fluid and non-sythetic fluid runs hotter than synthetic. You need that heat combined with the additive to cleanse those passages. After the "slam" goes away, you can switch to synthetic ATF (Mobil 1 recommended) if you so desire at the next regular change or sooner. Just DON'T extend the change intervals!

the_skin_eater
08-12-2004, 08:35 AM
would this help me out..cause my car will only slam when my engine is real hot..like the other day me and friends were goin 100 down the interstate, fishtailin the corners in town and stuff like that, then when goin to reverse it started slamin...just curious.

Tiger
08-12-2004, 10:12 AM
[Originally posted by the_skin_eater
would this help me out..cause my car will only slam when my engine is real hot..like the other day me and friends were goin 100 down the interstate, fishtailin the corners in town and stuff like that, then when goin to reverse it started slamin...just curious.

I had it 2 times in six months. Both times I was pushing the car. One was when I was late for work. The other time was when I came back from a 75 mile highway trip going 75 mph. So, I came to this site, used the reverse slam fix posted by Wolfman, and then had no problem. However, the dealership changed the fluid when I got the car last August. I did not change the filter when doing the fix since it was very new. When I drained the fluid 5 quarts came out. I put 4 quarts back in. Two days ago I wanted to switch fluid to Mobil 1 ATF. Four quarts came out, and I put 4 quarts back in. In checking the dipstick it seemed to be at or above the hot full mark. Then I looked at a chart from Alldata to use when checking the transmission fluid. It has more detail than the owner’s manual. It shows that the max hot for 4 wheel towing and the ideal operating hot range being at the top of the cross hatch marks. Max hot for non 4-wheel towing is the line above the word fill and max cold fill is the middle dot in hatch marks. I just looked at my dipstick. Looks like I am about a half a quart above the ideal range. That would put the fluid over a quart over the max hot level when the dealership did the service. I have a feeling the reason the max hot for 4-wheel towing is just above the hatch marks is because the heat generated causes the fluid to expand. Add that to the 1 quart I was overfilled by the dealership, and maybe this contributed to the reverse slam. That is why I am going to make sure the fluid is at the top of the hatch marks, and not at the hot max full mark. If my theory is correct, overfilling may contribute/cause the reverse slam when it is excessively hot. I would check your fluid level, if it is way overfilled, removing some fluid may help (and it may not without following Wolfman's fix). I use reverse 2 minutes a day, 5 days a week. It seems if it were just a sticky valve body I would have had reverse slam more often. Just my 2 cents. I am a newbie, not an expert.:)

shani
08-18-2004, 06:45 PM
I'm desperate. No one can find a rebuilt tranny for my '97 SL1. Found 2 used ones, but only a 3 month guarantee and as I will have to pay mechanic to remove and install would realllllly feel safer with a guaranteed rebuilt. Would it be worth trying the reverse slam fix for a transmission that refuses to go into reverse? I can go forward just fine, but reverse is a bust. Have a dim recollection of a few weeks of shifting problems and then kaplooey. Is the valve in question something easily removed and replaced? Is the neutral safety switch something easily removed and replaced. (Someone suggested that may be the problem.) Thanks, Helpless

TwinCammer96
08-18-2004, 08:58 PM
Sorry for changing the subject some but I have a '96 SL2 and have exprienced the reverse slam at times. I have only had the car since Oct. of '03 and had the filter and fluid changed as soon as I got it. But, what is more noticeable is when I am moving forward. It seems the tranny jerks into the next gear if it was about to shift and I let off the gas or if I am hard enough on the throttle that it shifts around 5000rpm. It doesn't seem to matter if it is hot or cold. Driving normally it seems fine. It has done this since I got it but before I figured it was just because it had 105,000 miles on it. Is there any fix for this without replacing the valve. Also for a day or two it had trouble getting into 4th at about 40-45 mph; that has since pasted and I haven't noticed it in about a month.

goldeneagle93
12-25-2004, 10:53 PM
My 93 SL2 with 129,600 miles is experiencing the same reverse slam issue. My transmission fluid and filter was changed at a local garage in March 2004 which was 3400 miles ago (obviously, the car isn’t driven much.) I’m wondering if this fluid and filter is “clean” and “new” enough for the reverse slam procedure. I know that wolfman has said not to “make up your own version” but since the fluid is fairly new I figured it was worth asking. If it is OK, do I just add Prolong by a funnel via dipstick? How much do I add? Also, is the exhaust going to stink during this procedure? Thanks.

shani
12-30-2004, 03:07 PM
GoldenEagle, I can't see how it could hurt with fluid & filter with 3400mi of use, but since my car was beyond help and is still 'out to pasture' you may want to defer to Wolfman. I added the Prolong to the dipstick tube with a funnel. Don't recall any strong smells. (I'm still hoping to find someone to change the valve for me. I CAN go into creeping reverse if I rev the engine.)
Hope the reverse slam cure works for you. Good luck!

Ernie's 00SWP
02-24-2005, 08:46 AM
Wolfman,

My SWP started to do the reverse slam thing while out on the route. I found your fix to work for me. On the route I had no slamming and I thank you for this thread. It worked for me.. For all that are worried about the safety part of leaving your car running in reverse.. My cure for that is, go to McDonalds order you a Happy Meal, and while you have your car backed up against the curb in reverse enjoy your 30 minute Happy Meal... :banana:

Thanks again Wolfman..

madpogue
02-24-2005, 12:05 PM
go to McDonalds order you a Happy Meal, and while you have your car backed up against the curb in reverse enjoy your 30 minute Happy Meal... This is officially know as the "clear your valve body, clog your heart valves" procedure....

Old Crow
03-15-2005, 09:59 PM
Before finding this website I think I stumbled upon my own version of a reverse slam fix (yes, I'm about 6 months overdue with this post). It worked because it forced clean fluid through the mucked up valve. I'll let Wolfman critique the fix.

My wife's '99 SW2 started slamming suddenly one day (about a week after a fluid flush at the dealer :mad: ). She made it just out the drive and turned around as soon as feasible. I took it out and noted the consistent slam into 3rd. Since I wanted to check the tranny fluid level, I just drove around the neighbor hood with the shifter in 2. After 20-30 minutes of driving ~2700 rpm in 2nd I was back in the driveway. I had another mild slam passing through R, but that was it. The problem went away.

The next day I found Wolfman's fix and did it for good measure even though driving in 2nd (with fresh fluid!) seemed to fix the problem. :usa:

Motoboy10
04-02-2005, 11:02 AM
I had the reverse slam problem about a year ago on my 95 SL1. I followed Wolfmans advice to the letter and I have had not one problem with the transmission since. I did leave the car in reverse running for about a hour though, I lost track of time while washing and waxing the outside and detailing the interior. Liquid Glass is an awesome wax by the way. Now with over 130K miles the transmission shifts smothly and no more reverse slam at all since the fix. Thanks again Wolfman!

jediphunk
04-06-2005, 10:39 PM
hi, I bought my 96 sw2 in feb 05'. great car but unfortunatly i get the slam too, and now she wont go in reverse unless i accelerate on her. i will try the wolfman technique. question i had all the fluids changed the i got the car and only put about a 1000 miles on her do I need to flush her out again or can i just add the additives?

thanks everyone for all the advice, hey wolfman, you're like a saturn god! you kno your saturns, thanks!

sierrap615
04-06-2005, 11:10 PM
if the filter was changed, synthetic was not used, and the fluid is still clean on the dipstick, in my mind you will be ok.

off topic- my auto trans class teacher today did something like this to clean govenors on rebuilt dodge trans. not exactly the same but worked on the same concept.

jediphunk
04-07-2005, 09:51 PM
well i never got to try the wolfman method. I went to my trusty saturn, put her into gear and bam!!!! no reverse at all. Oh man am I pissed! I was so hoping this would work, but I guess I'm past the point of no return. tomorrow i will take her to the shop and see what the verdict will be. wish me luck!!!!

bgates2b
04-27-2005, 02:16 PM
WOW...I am so glad I found this forum!!!!!!!!

I have been experiencing the reverse SLAM on my 94 SL2 with 172,000 miles for about a year now. I changed the fluid last summer thinking it might fix it. It did, but it's back. As a matter of fact, I think the Slam contributed to my radiator springing a leak where the transaxle line goes into it.

I will try this once I replace the alternator that is making my ABS light go on.

Also, does anyone have any suggestions on a filter. I have been using a Fram but I found a Website (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html) that states Fram filters are one of the worst you can use.

Motoboy10
04-28-2005, 07:54 AM
I reference to bgates post on filter suggestion:

I went to Saturn and bought a filter there. Its fine I remember it being a little pricy. The reverse slam on my car has been fixed ever since I did the reverse slam cure (via Wolfmans method), Im not sure how much difference filter brand made but it worked! I also use Saturn brand oil filters for oil changes. Call me crazy...but I like to keep it original.
Paul

bgates2b
04-28-2005, 02:41 PM
Thanks for your suggestions. but I remember that the markings on the OEM filter state that they were made for Saturn by Fram. That's why I won't use them anymore.

Tiger
04-28-2005, 08:24 PM
I reference to bgates post on filter suggestion:

I went to Saturn and bought a filter there. Its fine I remember it being a little pricy. The reverse slam on my car has been fixed ever since I did the reverse slam cure (via Wolfmans method), Im not sure how much difference filter brand made but it worked! I also use Saturn brand oil filters for oil changes. Call me crazy...but I like to keep it original.
Paul

I am not calling you crazy. I bought a Napa Gold air filter and about one inch of it was sucked into my intake. I have an OEM one now. I may not make as much difference with oil filters. The dealership I got my car from uses Quaker State filters. I believe they are rebadged Purolator. I like Advance Totalgrip filters. Again, rebagged Purolator, and were on sale for $1.24 earlier in the year. When in doubt, I will purchase OEM parts from now on.

shani
04-29-2005, 03:42 PM
Jediphunk, Sorry to hear you were too late. I was too! Couldn't afford a Saturn dealer repair, so a friend found a used tranny at a parts yard. My regular mechanic had to put that in, and a 2nd, and a 3rd before we found one that works (so far :xeye: )! Now I'm hassling passing Calif smog test. Found a temp sensor that needed replacing. I'm to drive at a steady speed for 20 miles then turn off the engine, and do this 6 times before I can go back for a re-smog. Does this make sense to anyone? :dizzy:

sierrap615
04-29-2005, 11:52 PM
I'm to drive at a steady speed for 20 miles then turn off the engine, and do this 6 times before I can go back for a re-smog. Does this make sense to anyone? :dizzy:

yes, your mechanic surely reset the PCM during the repairs. in order to pass a smog test after the PCM is reset, the vehicle was go thru a certain amount of "drive cycles" first.

99GreenSC1
05-12-2005, 12:26 AM
I was just wondering if the reverse slam affects the transmissions shifting while driving? I noticed the other day that my 99 SC1 (which has a used tranny in it...car has 65000 miles, used tranny has about 45000 to my knowledge...had the diff pin go on the original after only a month of owning the car)...anyway, starting yesterday, the car was shifting really hard from 1st to 2nd and not quite as hard from 2nd to 3rd, but harder than normal. I also noticed that going from park or neutral to reverse is slamming. That's why I'm asking if the tranny "slams" somewhat while shifting in drive.

Also, does the tranny cause the service engine soon light to come on? I noticed when the car started doing that, the light came on.

Poor car is having so many problems now. I'm in the process of replacing my radiator and 3 studs from the front drivers side wheel on my 92 SL1 so that I can drive it again until I get the 99 SC1 looked at. Hopefully I can get that done tomorrow morning so I don't damage the SC1 any further. But the engine is ticking between 1800 and 3500 RPMs (don't think it's a knock). So I'm debating as to whether I should just replace the SOHC with a DOHC and put a DOHC tranny in....side question...what would be needed for a full DOHC swap? The engine and trans, pcm, gauges and what else?

Thanks a lot for all your help.

Michael

erick295
07-19-2005, 03:15 PM
Just thought I'd say thanks, because I tried Wolfman's cure and it worked :)

A couple notes from my experience: I had the fluid changed but I didn't use any additive because I had trouble finding some. It still worked. Also, my engine almost overheated while I was doing this. As soon as the fan cycled off the temperature jumped almost into the red. I opened the hood and left the heat running to keep the temp down. It kept it down for the 20 minutes. Just be careful, watch your temp, and know how to cool it down when it rises! It probably WILL get very hot! Not sure if I did something I shouldn't have, but that was my experience, and it worked... thanks again :)