Hub Bearings?

[jeffkics]

Anyway to tell which Hub Bearing needs to be replaced? While driving you can't really tell which side its coming from. Any easy way of figuring out for the novice?

Also, anyone know the difference between the TIMKEN and PRECISION AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRIES? besides the 60$ difference?
Is Timken worth paying double?

Thanks!

[VTchemist]

I've had three front bearing assemblies to fail. In all cases, I could tell which side the roar was coming from (at highway speed).

You can also see if the noise grows louder or softer in a turn. If a portion of the "weight" of the car is transferred of the offending wheel in a turn, the roar will be less. If you transfer the weight onto the wheel, it's louder. Again, this was an highway speed.

If you are a fan of Car Talk on NPR, perhaps you've heard stories about Ray being strapped on the hood in order to listen for noises.... Perhaps that's why they both say "don't drive like my brother".:D

[Chazberry]

Also, anyone know the difference between the TIMKEN and PRECISION AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRIES? besides the 60$ difference? Is Timken worth paying double?

At least I've heard of Timken ;) The Timkens are between $88-118 at Rockauto. What are you going to pay for a PAI? Btw - it looks like they are a "rebuilder".

[jeffkics]

At least I've heard of Timken ;) The Timkens are between $88-118 at Rockauto. What are you going to pay for a PAI? Btw - it looks like they are a "rebuilder".

At hubbearings.com they have a Timken for 130, and the PAI for 60. which is a pretty big difference, thats why i was asking if anyone knew of them.
I will checkout rockauto. thx

This is going to be my 3rd one too, thats how I know exactly what it is.
Just wish I could figure out which one it is. Guess I could do both hehe

[1saxman]

I've had three front bearing assemblies to fail. In all cases, I could tell which side the roar was coming from (at highway speed).

You can also see if the noise grows louder or softer in a turn. If a portion of the "weight" of the car is transferred of the offending wheel in a turn, the roar will be less. If you transfer the weight onto the wheel, it's louder. Again, this was an highway speed.

If you are a fan of Car Talk on NPR, perhaps you've heard stories about Ray being strapped on the hood in order to listen for noises.... Perhaps that's why they both say "don't drive like my brother".:D

This was good advice on the old-style wheel bearings, but with my VUE, there was no shift in noise when turning to either side, and no way to tell which side was bad. I was sure it was in the rear, and it was. Simply get each wheel off the ground and rotate it while listening for a click from the hub. A stethoscope would help.

[jeffkics]

This was good advice on the old-style wheel bearings, but with my VUE, there was no shift in noise when turning to either side, and no way to tell which side was bad. I was sure it was in the rear, and it was. Simply get each wheel off the ground and rotate it while listening for a click from the hub. A stethoscope would help.

I hear no difference when I turn either way at any speeds. I will try this out.
Thx!

[Chazberry]

I hear no difference when I turn either way at any speeds. I will try this out.
Thx!

I wonder if the failing bearing would feel warmer than the others after a long drive?

[WE0H]

I would guess the rough bearing will heat up. How would one spin the hub with an AWD Vue? I tried the other day but the posi held on real well :p

Mike

[3RedLines]

I wonder if the failing bearing would feel warmer than the others after a long drive?

I tried it after a 130 mile trip a couple of weeks ago. I couldn't detect a noticeable difference.

Have a set of Timkins to put on before its driven again. It's been noisy for months and its getting really annoying.

[jeffkics]

At hubbearings.com they have a Timken for 130, and the PAI for 60. which is a pretty big difference, thats why i was asking if anyone knew of them.
I will checkout rockauto. thx

This is going to be my 3rd one too, thats how I know exactly what it is.
Just wish I could figure out which one it is. Guess I could do both hehe

Looks like the PAI for 60$ are no longer available on hubbearings.com

found timkens on amazon for 94$ guess i'll go with one of those

[BryanF]

I've been told that the Timkens are the best available aftermarket bearing for the VUE. I replaced both front bearings with the Timken part a couple hundred miles ago. I've learned the hard way too many times that if you try to save money on cheaper parts, you'll end up doing the job twice.
I think you made the right move :yes: :yes: :yes:

[PortugalFocus]

The best way to check for a failed hub is: #1 get the wheels off. If there is a grinding or excessive hold back, that hub is no good. Also check for play or looseness on the hub itself. Get the wheel off and put two hands, one at 9 o'clock and one at 3 o'clock and give it a good firm push left to right. You should feel some play in a loose or failing hub. Also try putting the car up on a jack stand and spin the wheel independently with your hand and listen for and abnormal noise.

[BobbyP]

I would guess the rough bearing will heat up. How would one spin the hub with an AWD Vue? I tried the other day but the posi held on real well :p

Mike

I use non-contact infrared thermometers to troubleshoot a multitude of equipment. They can be bought on sale at Harbor Freight for less than $10.

IMO after driving highway speeds a bad bearing would definitely be hotter.

I have one with a laser sight and a flexible goose neck extension to measure temps in all sort of places... :eek:

[BryanF]

I use non-contact infrared thermometers to troubleshoot a multitude of equipment. They can be bought on sale at Harbor Freight for less than $10.

IMO after driving highway speeds a bad bearing would definitely be hotter.

I have one with a laser sight and a flexible goose neck extension to measure temps in all sort of places... :eek:

That's a great idea. I've seen them around in stores for that cheap too. Definitely another tool that isn't in my toolbox, but should be.

[jeffkics]

the noise is getting worse, as i would expect and know from the last 2 LEFT hub bearing that i replaced.

I am able for the first time today begin to hear a difference in the sound harmonics when i pull on the wheel slightly.

a definite vibration and sound difference is heard/felt when i turn the wheel to the left. Not so much to the right.

my incling is that we have another LEFT one going. What do you think?

And what are the chances of that? a 3rd one on the left, why is it happening to the left and not the right. anyone?

[jeffkics]

Well I replaced the left bearing today, took about an hour. took it for a test drive and the noise is gone. so its the 3rd left one to be replaced.

there still seems to be a bit of harmonic noise, which maybe the right one. i may just go ahead and do it since it only costs 100 from amazon for the bearing.

unless its the back? can any one tell me if the noise is different if it comes from the back?

[WE0H]

Question, can you feel any roughness or slop in the hub bearing when they are bad like you pulled out today?

tnx,
Mike

[jeffkics]

Question, can you feel any roughness or slop in the hub bearing when they are bad like you pulled out today?

tnx,
Mike

I didn't feel anything. it looked ok to me. i am now beginning to think it might be the other one, becasue the noise is still there. i'm not sure what im going to do, and my thoughts here might be that this may not be the problem.

anyone know if there is anything else that can cause what i am hearing?

[WE0H]

The only things I can think of would be wheel bearings or that center prop shaft (drive shaft) bearing. It might help if you have someone else drive your Vue while you crawl around inside listening. You might be able to tell which corner the noise is coming from if it is a wheel bearing. If it is the prop shaft bearing, maybe it will sound like it is coming from the center of the vehicle while you move around inside to gain a sense of what direction the sound is coming from. That method might help, I sure hope so, it isn't fun throwing parts at a vehicle only to find the parts didn't do a thing for the original issue :x

Mike

[jeffkics]

I went to replace the right one today, got all the bolts out, but couldn't budge the bearing. Anyone know how to get one of these out that is stuck?

[WE0H]

Soak it well with WD-40 or JB-80. That will help free the part. Best to let it soak ~hour so the lube can wick into the two parts. Might take a few hits with a plastic hammer too :whoa:

Mike

[BryanF]

I went to replace the right one today, got all the bolts out, but couldn't budge the bearing. Anyone know how to get one of these out that is stuck?

Save yourself some trouble and remove the whole steering kunckle. It's only three more bolts...one on the lower ball joint and two on the bottom of the strut. And the tie rod end, so I guess that makes it four bolts. Forget about using a slide hammer, because if it doesn't work you're just going to get pissed off and your hands will be sore for about 5 days from all that impact.

Take out the knuckle and soak the crap out of the thing with PB blaster. Pound out the studs that the wheel bolts onto so you can set up the kunckle on a couple of 2x4's and pound on the back of the hub with a 12-lb sledgehammer. It might take a few hits, but it'll come out.

I tried a slide hammer and a 20-ton press when I did my front bearings. This was the only way that worked.

[jeffkics]

Save yourself some trouble and remove the whole steering kunckle. It's only three more bolts...one on the lower ball joint and two on the bottom of the strut. And the tie rod end, so I guess that makes it four bolts. Forget about using a slide hammer, because if it doesn't work you're just going to get pissed off and your hands will be sore for about 5 days from all that impact.

Take out the knuckle and soak the crap out of the thing with PB blaster. Pound out the studs that the wheel bolts onto so you can set up the kunckle on a couple of 2x4's and pound on the back of the hub with a 12-lb sledgehammer. It might take a few hits, but it'll come out.

I tried a slide hammer and a 20-ton press when I did my front bearings. This was the only way that worked.


This worked like a charm! although I took the 3 bolts out of the bottom under the ball joint. I used a couple of 4x4's screwed together with a couple braces, 4x4's were 2-12"ers and 1-13.75" in a triangle, actually left the tierod connected because I couldnt get it off. Soaked it with PB and changed my oil, when I was done with that I hit it with a 20lb sledge a couple of times and it flew out.
No more noise! Fantastic!

Thanks for everyones help!!!

Whole process from start to finish took about 2 hrs.

[BryanF]

:cool: :cool: :cool:

It's nice to have a quiet ride back, isn't it?