saw bar end-link recommendations

[kevo420]

I'm building my spring maintenance list and i'm going to be replacing the sway bar end links in my 05 vue.

Looking on rock auto there seems to be multiple manufacturers of these parts, Deeza, Moog, Delco, Spicer, etc...

Can anyone recommend one over the other for any particular reason? preferably i'd like a product with grease zirks so stock Delco parts are out... But other than that i don't know which to get.

[1saxman]

I don't know of any with grease fittings, but I guess it's not impossible...I'd say to get the steel ones rather than factory aluminum.

[Ritz]

I'm building my spring maintenance list and i'm going to be replacing the sway bar end links in my 05 vue.

Looking on rock auto there seems to be multiple manufacturers of these parts, Deeza, Moog, Delco, Spicer, etc...

Can anyone recommend one over the other for any particular reason? preferably i'd like a product with grease zirks so stock Delco parts are out... But other than that i don't know which to get.

I don't think any of the aftermarket parts have zerk fittings either. Of course, if you've got a few minutes, a drill, a tap, and some zerk fittings, it's not rocket science to roll your own. I would probably not bother and use one of those hypodermic needle fittings for a grease gun, inject some nice synthetic grease into the "boot" of the links, and call it a day.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/392068/Westward_1ZTC7_Injector_Needle

Also, of the manufacturers listed above, my personal preference would be Moog (based on a couple of decades of using their high quality parts in the past).

Cheers,

[kevo420]

Also, of the manufacturers listed above, my personal preference would be Moog (based on a couple of decades of using their high quality parts in the past

That's the type of feedback i was looking for :)

The grease zirks were just a preference if available.. The needle makes sense, i never thought of it.

Thanks everyone!

[dimyself]

I would recommend Deeza. I have ordered their part from Rockauto, they shipped the same day, part arrived in perfect condition and it was absolutely very high quality also their parts are 20% less than the others for your car.

Also, even if the parts don't have grease fittings, don't forget that they are factory greased for life. If a chassis part fails, it is most generally not because of the lack of grease.

Hope this helps.

[03zq8]

I have the Moog's on mine. They have about 15k on them without a peep so far...

[kevo420]

Also, even if the parts don't have grease fittings, don't forget that they are factory greased for life. If a chassis part fails, it is most generally not because of the lack of grease.

I don't agree with that at all.

If i hang a grease gun in my shed with a full tube of grease in it, I can gradually see fluids leaking out of the grease over the period of a year or so. Although the grease will still initially serve it's purpose i doubt it will last forever as the chemical structure breaks down when it just sits there. I don't know how anyone can believe that something is 'greased for life'... Anyone remember the Alaskan airlines flight that lost control of it's horizontal stabilizer?

This was caused by a failure of the jack-screw assembly that controlled the pitch of the stabilizer. The assembly failed because it was not adequately lubricated with grease. It had been greased at one time or another, but not nearly frequently enough.

Further to that, I work in the satellite industry and we have massive antennas (a.k.a satellite dishes) that are controlled by similar jack-screw systems... Ever seen an 18 meter (~59 ft) diameter antenna's reflector plummet to the ground because no-one bothered to grease the vertical-movement jack screw outlined in the annual maintenance procedures?

For those reasons i cannot believe that grease will last forever, moving parts force the grease out of places that it's needed and must be replaced.

[dimyself]

kevo420, you are right about your opinion. I, myself also a 10 year experienced technician about front end parts and know plenty much detail especially about chassis parts. However, I think I didn't make the explanation right in my previous post.

The parts that do not have grease fittings, have polymer bearings that cover the ball of the stud which reduces the force needed and the friction occurred when the joints work. Also their joints are completely closed with dust boots and this prevents any outer contaminants to enter into the joint. Hence, even you don't grease those joints, most generally they stand for more than 60-70.000 miles unless you hit somewhere or have an accident.

So, the reason they say it is greased for life is not because the grease does not spoil, it is because there is already enough grease inside the joint and its polymer to metal structure prevents corrosion.

If you are familiar with all moog products, most generally the older applications have grease fittings and requires regular greasing. New parts that fit to new vehicles often don't have grease fittings. This is because the manufacturers, moog-spicer etc. use the polymer bearing.

hope I have been clearer this time.

[kevo420]

Well that makes much more sense :)

[robroy51]

I run a 2005 Vue and I went with Moog,for me the best quality for the money:D

[runerx]

I have moog on my pass side and am knocking on 20K, perfectly quiet, no issues.

But I gotta ask What's a saw bar??? ;)

Dave:hothead:

[kevo420]

But I gotta ask What's a saw bar???

It's a highly technical piece of equipment.... I could try to explain it but you'd never understand ;)

lol i seldom read over what i write and coincidentally i often read one of my posts the next day and wonder 'what the hell was i thinking?'

[AIAG1917]

I have the same problem, what is the moog part number or where do you get the moog parts?

[Tom92SCm]

I have the same problem, what is the moog part number or where do you get the moog parts?

www.rockauto.com

RH- K80460
LH- K80461

$24.79 each plus shipping.

[AIAG1917]

Thanks Tom, I just placed my order. I'll report back on how the install goes. (if I can find this thread again. LOL)

[kevo420]

i ended up going with moog for the end links...

i don't know if it was them, the struts, mounts, or shocks that did it but the ride is smoooooooth and quiet now :)

[guitarzan]

I'm throwing parts at my '03 VUE 3.0L AWD to fix a clunking near the left front wheel. I read as many posts on here as I could to edamacate myself, narrowing the problem down to 3 possibilities. The first thing to replace was the Stabilizer Bar Link. I removed the wheel and have access to it, but it looks like I need a special tool to remove the old one. I'm having a dickens of a time removing the nut on the bottom one. It appears to need a 6mm allen wrench, with a small torx protruding out the middle. Is there such a tool? Where do I get it? What's it called? part #?

[kevo420]

i didn't need a special tool, just an allen wrench to hold the bolt still while you turn the nut. sorry i don't remember the size though.

[far2grumpy]

I'm throwing parts at my '03 VUE 3.0L AWD to fix a clunking near the left front wheel. I read as many posts on here as I could to edamacate myself, narrowing the problem down to 3 possibilities. The first thing to replace was the Stabilizer Bar Link. I removed the wheel and have access to it, but it looks like I need a special tool to remove the old one. I'm having a dickens of a time removing the nut on the bottom one. It appears to need a 6mm allen wrench, with a small torx protruding out the middle. Is there such a tool? Where do I get it? What's it called? part #?

I don't recall wrench sizes but I did mine with a metric box-end wrench for the nut and an Allen wrench to "freeze" the inner portion while turning the nut.

Overall instructions are in post 5 ... this thread:

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143402

The end-links were not causing my "clunk" problem ... strut mounts (both sides) were the culprits.

[guitarzan]

I should have went into another level of detail. I put an unmarked allen wrench that fit pretty snugly in the inner bolt end to hold it still. (Pretty sure it was a 6mm cuz I put a marked 1/4" allen wrench in it and it was too big barely). Liquid Wrenched the nut at the bolt and at the point of contact with the Stab Bar. While attempting to turn the nut with an 18MM open end, the Allen wrench just twisted. I looked inside the "Allen hole" in the bolt and there's a teeny weeny torx slot inside it! It's on the new link that I bought too.

I'd be real interested in anything related in the "Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices." says in the Service Information pdf you posted (far2..) at http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143402.

Thanks guys

[far2grumpy]

I looked inside the "Allen hole" in the bolt and there's a teeny weeny torx slot inside it! It's on the new link that I bought too.

I'd be real interested in anything related in the "Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices."

I just wiggled under the front of my 05 Vue to confirm my 6 MM hex is the proper tool.

I also note the interesting inner machine marks (I installed Moog parts) and suspect they're just that - marks caused by the stamp / press process.

The "Fastener Notice" is basically a GM Saturn CYA document cautioning to use right part numbers, torque, blah, blah, blah.

I've attached for you to get the flavor.

BTW ... I did a RDM fluid swap-out last year and had to buy 6 and 8 MM hex 3/8 drive socket wrenches for the drain and fill holes. I bought the best sockets in the store so my 6 MM fits very snugly.

I'm not saying your wrenches are poor quality or worn-out but maybe the new tool makes the difference.

[djhhjd]

The end-links were not causing my "clunk" problem ... strut mounts (both sides) were the culprits.

far2grumpy, did you replace the strut mounts or just letting them go for now?

[far2grumpy]

The end-links were not causing my "clunk" problem ... strut mounts (both sides) were the culprits.

far2grumpy, did you replace the strut mounts or just letting them go for now?

Whisper ... I've not replaced the strut mounts ... right at 42,000 miles on my 05 and periodically squirt silicone spray in both sides. Our city streets are as bad as any I've driven on and I'm reluctant to put new mounts in and wipe them out before next spring.

I recently watched one of those UK car-fix and sell programs on cable TV. They bought some sort of cross-member which bolted to the tops of front struts to tie them together. They did it to improve handling but I was thinking it might do a good job of immobilizing the struts (and keep the mounts from chafing the body).

Any thoughts?

[1saxman]

Be careful installing the front stabilizer inks - there's a 'R' and 'L'. I just found out during my state inspection that the rubber boots are torn up on my REAR stabilizer links. Not a biggie, just another little job to do - and I need front ones AGAIN! My VUE has been a little wish-washy lately and that's probably the reason. I'm going to look at replacing the stabilizer bushings on both ends too, since loose, worn bushings defeat some of the bar's response.