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Wingmn
10-15-2008, 12:27 PM
My Vue's battery light is coming on above 50 mph/2000 rpm. Below those figures the battery light goes off.

I checked voltage on the battery after the Vue sat overnight - 12.5 Volts.

Voltage on the batter with the Vue Idling - 14.5 Volts

Voltage with the Vue @ 2000 RPM or higher - 14.6-14.7 Volts

When the Engine is shut off the reading quickly drops back to under 12.6 Volts

I searched the Vue Forum and found no posts like this... Does anyone have any suggestions?

It's clear to me that the alternator is charging - but why does the battery light come on above 2000 RPM and go out below it?

Thanks

Wingmn
10-15-2008, 01:22 PM
Update: I took the VUE to ORielly's and they checked the battery and the Alternator - Both check good - voltage readings all similar to mine...

I went to Advanced Auto Parts, they load tested the battery and Alternator and both checked good.

So I have 3 sources (including me) that say the alternator and battery are good.

Since I drove the Vue I paid special attention to the rpms and the battery light

Below 1000 RPMs no light.
Between 1000 and 1700 RPMs Battery light flickers
Above 1700 RPMs Battery light stays on.

Our dealership charges $90 just to hook up a vehicle to diagnostics... Can anyone help me before I resort to this - ever since I paid this VUE off it has been nickle and diming me... It seems that every car payment I would have made since I paid it off goes towards repairs...

Gerry Proctor
10-15-2008, 02:15 PM
I'd be looking at the belt/tensioner.

Wingmn
10-15-2008, 02:24 PM
Does anyone have the FSM for the 03 V6 Vue that could post any pics for me on how to replace the serp belt? Or procedures?

I'm contemplating whether or not I want to buy the FSM... Debating whether or not it would be more cost effective to go ahead and buy the FSM and really dig into the VUE or plan on getting a replacement vehicle...

I do almost all the maint on my 93 SL2, have a haynes manual for it, and am comfortable in doing a lot on it, but the VUE intimidates me - I guess mainly because I don't have a repair manual.

Thanks for the Belt tensioner idea, I'll look into if I get some manuals or pics or something to help with the procedure.

Gerry Proctor
10-15-2008, 02:30 PM
It's fairly intuitive. You need to slightly jack up the engine to remove the motor mount since the belt loops through it, but that's not difficult. The belt and tensioner are nothing out of the norm.

Chazberry
10-15-2008, 10:54 PM
I searched the Vue Forum and found no posts like this... Does anyone have any suggestions?


How many miles on your VUE? Original belt? I don't have the exact problem, but my alternator died at about 75k. I installed a new alternator, belt AND battery - Batt Light STILL on! Paid dealer $100 for diagnostics - they wanted to sell me another alternator for $600. I opted for an aftermarket volt gauge so I can keep an eye on the alternator output. Been ignoring the light for 1-1/2 years now.

1saxman
10-16-2008, 08:54 AM
'It seems that every car payment I would have made since I paid it off goes towards repairs...'

Pretty much the way it is generally. The saying has been for decades 'It's either a car payment or repair bills'. If you plan to keep a vehicle beyond 5 yr/50K, you darn well better like it - a lot. I'm in the process of spending $2K for struts, shocks, sway bar links and brakes on our two '03s. That's not too bad since we were making payments of $7800/year, and they were paid-for in 12/07. You have good years and bad years with old cars, but there is something every year beyond the usual maintenance/wear items. Assuming it's in basic good shape and that you like it, you can usually make out okay for 10 yr/100K. I'm betting by keeping ours that by that time a new class of vehicles will be available, perhaps non-gasoline. In the meanwhile the VUEs still look good, still meet our needs and get tolerable fuel mileage, so I'll continue to maintain them. I do something to one or the other every month - oil changes are due, along with trans drain/fills and one RDM drain/fill. They both need to be detailed/waxed and mine is due for a leather treatment - always something to be done.

Wingmn
10-16-2008, 10:48 AM
I now have 70k on my VUE.

1saxman - the points you mentioned are irrefuteable. Replacing items at recommended intervals is part of the normal life cycle of an "older" vehicle.

I guess my SL2 spoiled me. That's the real issue with my discouragement with the VUE. I had so few problems with my SL2 which I bought used, I kinda expected buying a brand new vehilce (my VUE) to be a similar experience. But while my VUE was under warranty I had to take it to the dealership on a regular basis to get things fixed... And once the warranty ran out, the repairs kept coming. In stark contrast is my SL2, which I've been able to fix myself so the cost of repairs have been a fraction of what the VUE's have cost me.

So, as far as reliability, my VUE didn't meet my expectations... On a positive note though, this forum has exceed my expectations.

So, 1saxman - you are absolutetly correct - regular change items happen as a car ages, and to not expect those is foolish. I suppose it was not wise of me to have the same expectations of my VUE as of my SL2. After the first year of owning my VUE I considered my SL2 to be more reliable, and I still do.

Wingmn
10-16-2008, 11:01 AM
How many miles on your VUE? Original belt? I don't have the exact problem, but my alternator died at about 75k. I installed a new alternator, belt AND battery - Batt Light STILL on! Paid dealer $100 for diagnostics - they wanted to sell me another alternator for $600. I opted for an aftermarket volt gauge so I can keep an eye on the alternator output. Been ignoring the light for 1-1/2 years now.



I have 70k miles, and original belt, 2nd battery, original alternator. I have told my wife that the VUE is still safe to drive, conisdering all the battery and alternator checks I've done and had done. Maybe this is a good excuse to get a scanguage? Doesn't a scangauge also tell you voltage?

Chazberry
10-16-2008, 06:23 PM
I have 70k miles, and original belt, 2nd battery, original alternator. I have told my wife that the VUE is still safe to drive, conisdering all the battery and alternator checks I've done and had done. Maybe this is a good excuse to get a scanguage? Doesn't a scangauge also tell you voltage?

It might be a good idea to change the belt after 70k, but I doubt the belt or tensioner is causing your light to come on. My dealer said my alternator is putting out enough voltage but not enough current - sounded like BS to me.
This thing is cheaper than a Scangauge if you want to keep an eye on your voltage . . .
http://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=D&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SVMB

PS - You are SO right about the contrast between the S-series and the VUEs - that's why I'm hanging on to my '95 SW2.

Wingmn
10-17-2008, 12:28 AM
Interesting Update:

My wife took the VUE to my parents today and the ABS light came on... Also when she was going to come back home, it wouldn't start...

No fading lights, just a clunk clunk... And the normal dash lights SES, Oil, and Battery. Oh and the ABS light.

Now I've had 3 Right Rear speed sensors changed on my VUE already, each time the ABS light came on. I'm betting it's bad again...

So, luckily we have 2 Saturn dealerships here in the OKC area, and the dealership where my parents live only charges a $50 diagnositc fee, instead of a $90 diag fee like the dealership near my house... So tomorrow morning, I will be getting it to the dealership near my parents house (somehow).

Chazberry
10-17-2008, 07:45 AM
Well I'd say your alternator finally failed completely. When mine went, as the battery voltage got lower and lower, I had all kinds of idiot lights coming on.

Wingmn
10-17-2008, 01:28 PM
Mystery Solved,

Chaz - you are right - went and looked at it this morning, and sure enough it looks like the alternatory is dead.

Jump started the VUE and voltage on the battery got up to 14.5 for a second... 1 time, then dropped, and would not stay above 12 without the donor car hooked up...

The dealership where my parents live want 492 for the part, and 124 for labor.. That's CRAZY...

I called the dealership near me and they want 410 for the part... Then they offered to get an aftermarket one for me for 270.

I can get one at O'Reilly's for 229 or 174 and attempt to do it myself.. So, I am going to try to change the alternator myself. I'll let everyone know how it goes after this weekend is up.. Wish me luck!

Wingmn
10-17-2008, 02:04 PM
Could anyone post instructions on how to change an Alternator on a 3.0L 02-03 VUE?

And here's a question because I have no clue - Is the serp and the timing belt seperate?

Chazberry
10-17-2008, 08:50 PM
Could anyone post instructions on how to change an Alternator on a 3.0L 02-03 VUE?

And here's a question because I have no clue - Is the serp and the timing belt seperate?

I remember paying about $200 for mine at AZ. Unfortunately I don't remember the steps exactly, but disconnect the battery first. Get a wrench to unload the tensioner and remove the serp belt (separate from the timing belt). If you're changing the belt, support the engine (a wide 2 x 6 and jack under the crankcase) and remove the upper motor mount. Disconnect the wires from the alt and remove the mounting bolts. It will look like there's no way to get the alt out of there but it IS possible once you get it in the right orientation. Good luck!

Wingmn
10-18-2008, 03:37 PM
Well, it took 2.5 hours from start to finish and I'm done. The new alternator is in and the first test drive is good.

Thanks Chazberry for the assistance and the words of wisdom. I shouldn't have as intimidated as I was. It was a little harder to chance than my SL2's but not as bad as I thought it was going to be. Now, the part was WAY more expensive than my SL2's but hey, 250 (core cost included) isn't too bad, I think I'm going to try to refurbish the "bad" altenator.

So, thanks all. No battery light yet.