'03 Vue V6 Stripped Oil Pan

[skiboutins]

I need help.

I recently was changing the oil in my 2003 V6 AWD Vue and found that the jokers at the local Jiffy Lube cross-threaded the oil plug on the last oil changed and cranked it on tight.

I was able to get the plug out , but when I drained the oil and replaced the plug, it is no longer tight; it just spins once it seats.

Needless to say, I am a little nervous driving around with a 'loose' plug.

Does anyone know how the Saturn Dealer Service would fix this?

The oil pan looks to be cast aluminum, so I am not sure if the threads are repairable.

Has anyone experienced this problem?

Should I just try a new plug first?
If so, what is the size or part number?

Help.

[Bill Murray]

The elegant solution would be to pull the pan and helicoil the threads to repair them. Don't know how difficult a job that is on this engine/chassis.
Typically it's a lot of work.

Auto repair stores sell an "expanding" type plug which can be used as a shade tree fix.

[F-Bobby]

typically when that happens you end up replacing the oil pan. You can try to retap the threads, but they probably wont hold up very long, espeically at a jiffy lube, where the correct torque is as tight as you can get it, not 18 ft lbs like its supposed to be.

you will be better off to replace the pan, if you were planning on removing it from the car to helicoil or retap the threads.

[BobbyP]

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=LIS58850&source=froogle&kw=LIS58850

Oil Pan Plug Rethreading Kit


Removes Damaged Thread and Taps a New Oversize Thread
This set includes a piloted drill, spring-loaded tapping tool and 5 magnetic drain plugs
The unique tapping tool ensures the new thread will be perpendicular to the gasket surface to prevent leakage
Works on soft steel and aluminum oil pans with 1/2 inch, 12mm & 14mm threads
Can be used on the vehicle when room permits
Includes: 58650 Plugs & Gaskets (Set of 5), 58880 Piloted Drill Assembly, 58900 Tap

[enginebrake]

I'd be extremely cautious about using that kit. For one, at 86 dollars to buy a tool I'll probably use one time in my lifetime, it isn't worth it, unless you can rent it instead as keeping the bit straight is important to the gasket not pinching or leaking. More important, I'd still want the pan off the car before performing that work. Last thing I want is the drill bit shavings going into the crank bearings, oil pump or other critical areas. It might be cheaper to get a helicoil installed at your local machine shop where the pan can be hot tanked or cleaned for half the price of that tool. Best advice is do it off the car and don't go to Stiffme Lube again

[VTchemist]

Had a similar problem with a 86 Astro Van. The guys at the lube place stripped the threads. They put a "special plug" in to seal the leak. Since the van had 200K on it, they would not fess up to their mistake.

After a trip to the junkyard I took a "newer" pan to my mechanic. It worked fine until I sold it.

I do agree with the above posted. Have the pan dropped and either replace it or have someone retap for a new, larger plug.

[Wayne12345]

Had the same problem with a Chrysler product and a friend told me to get a universal plug at a auto parts place. I as one that pushed in and you tightened like a thermas bottle plug. I used it for 3 or 4 yrs and no problems. It saved me the labour costs and more. I was a little leary about it at first but it proved itself. Several friends I know at Saturn have used it since. I was told that it was made for cross country racing.

[1saxman]

Had the same problem with a Chrysler product and a friend told me to get a universal plug at a auto parts place. I as one that pushed in and you tightened like a thermas bottle plug. I used it for 3 or 4 yrs and no problems. It saved me the labour costs and more. I was a little leary about it at first but it proved itself. Several friends I know at Saturn have used it since. I was told that it was made for cross country racing.

+1 This works. However, on an '03, this is a great opportunity to pull and replace the pan, getting a good look at the bottom end and oil pump pick-up screen. If I had bought the car new and was sure there was no sludge in the engine, I might just use the plug and figure on replacing the pan later. If the pick-up screen were starting to sludge up, it would be good to clean or replace it.

[skiboutins]

How would you rate the difficulty in removing the oil pan?

I am not under the Vue now....just curious if there are many parts
that need to be removed/moved in order to drop the pan, or is there
enough clearance to just pull the bolts and drop it out?

Also, does Saturn have a kit to facilitate this repair?

Any idea of cost?

I am unfamiliar with helicoils....is there options once the pan is out?

Thanks.

[Bill Murray]

factory manual comments:
(not rocket science but takes some workmanship - I'm not at all familiar with this engine)

Tools Required
J 44715 Oil Pan Alignment Pins

Notice: After the pan has been placed on the engine block, do not allow the pan to move as this will not allow the sealant to properly seal in the chamfered flange.

Important: Alignment of the oil pan is critical to ensure the transaxle nose cone-to-oil pan and the transaxle mating flange-to-oil pan alignment. Application of RTV is critical to ensure the positive seal of the chamfered sealing flange on the oil pan-to-engine block mating surface.


Clean the oil pan and the engine block sealing flanges with a chlorinated solvent such as carburetor spray cleaner, brake clean, or alcohol SA P/N 21007432, or equivalent.



Install the J 44715 into the datum holes as shown in the illustration. Tighten until firmly seated in the block.
Apply a 2 mm (0.08 in) bead of LOCTITE® 5900, or equivalent, 3 mm (0.12 in) from the edge of the oil pan.
Assemble the oil pan to the engine block.
Install the nose cone bracket-to-oil pan bolts and finger tighten.
Install the transaxle-to-oil pan bolts and finger tighten in order.
Remove the J 44715 .
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Install the oil pan bolts with Permatex Threadlocker Blue P/N 21485278 or equivalent.

Tighten
Tighten the oil pan bolts to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).

Torque the nose cone bracket-to-oil pan bolts and the transaxle-to-oil pan bolts.

Tighten

• Tighten the transaxle-to-oil pan bolts (transaxle nose-bracket bolts) to 65 N·m (48 lb ft).

• Tighten the nose cone bracket-to-oil pan bolts to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).

[1AuraOwner]

If it was up in the air and you had shop tools it would take you about an hour to do.
I've seen cars run along time with one of those special drain plugs that autozone sells..
If you do decide to throw one of those drain plugs in it, just make sure it tightens up. If it keeps spinning, then you will need to replace the oil pan, but if it's already screwed up you really have nothing to lose.
As for the RTF, you can go to Saturn and get the engine sealant the techs use.Part # 12378521. You will need a caulk gun for this though. I've also had good luck with a sealant called "The Right Stuff." Either should work for your application. I really like the right stuff because it has no set up time..You apply it, install the part and drive away...no waiting 4-8 hours.

As for that special tool, it really isn't necessary. It's basically there to allow the oil pan to set into place without sliding the oil pan on the bottom of the block and smearing the sealant... As long as you align the bolts holes and start two bolts on opposite sides of the oil pan you shouldn't have a problem..
Either way you go , good luck.

[1saxman]

Jeez: with a procedure like that, I'd probably faggedabout the pan and just plug it.

[body-snatch-her]

The moral to this story is: Stay away from Jiffy Lube!

My mother had the same problem a while back with those hacks. Ended up costing her big bucks for a new pan at Saturn. Of course JL wouldn't accept any responsibility! Somebody needs to shut them down!!!