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tspoof
10-05-2007, 11:45 AM
Can anyone point me in the direction of instructions for replacing the Pressure Control Solenoid in the automatic transmission of a 99 Saturn SL1 (w/80K miles)? I've searched and searched, but cannot find what I'm looking for. I have instructions on replacing the valve body. And I understand the solenoid is part of it. Is it a straight forward matter of pull the valve body, swapping the solenoid, and reinstalling?

My '99 SL1 AT has been diagnosed as having a bad Pressure Control Solenoid (per dealer, code PO749). A replacement should fix the shifting slam into all gears problem the transmission is having once it warms up (forward and reverse). The Pressure Control Solenoid shorted out.

[I do not have the typical reverse slam problem, and when it's cold it works fine.]

The solenoid is a $650 fix at the dealer, I plan to do it myself. Supposedly the valve body is still good; the shaft nuts may need to be re-torque, but I've driven it very little since this started.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers

plastic torpedo
10-05-2007, 03:13 PM
Hi, you've emailed me on eBay.
If you have slam in all forward gears once it warms up, then it's definitely the line pressure solenoid. That solenoid works the hardest as it constantly opens and closes at different frequencies to create the appropriate line pressure.
The easiest way would be to replace the valve body. I'm not just saying it because I want to sell you a valve body either. $600 is too much.

There are 5 solenoids in the valve body, the TCC solenoid, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear solenoids and PWM (or line pressure solenoid). The procedure is pretty straightforward, it requires taking out the valve body and taking it apart. There isn't anything in the valve body that's going to fly apart and get lost, just do it carefully and watch for two small springs with bearing-type balls on them, those two suckers tend to fly out, but the valve body is fairly idiot-proof.

If you find just the solenoids, which are cheaper than the valve body, then definitely rebuild your valve body. You will have piece of mind and will save a ton of money.

Driving the car with gears slamming may cause stripped gear teeth. This happened to me when I was trying to raise the line pressure and make the automatic manually controlled through a piggy-back circuit. It'll still work, but will make funny noises. But mine was set to maximum line pressure, and if yours works fine when cold then it's probably not something to worry about for now.

Dr B
10-05-2007, 03:34 PM
No need to remove the entire valvebody,to change an actuator .
this can be done inside the unit ,by removing the top pan ,and taking out
the high level bolts holding the buss plate .
once the plate is removed any actuator ,or all of them can be changed .
someone recently posted the layout for the actuators ,if can't find it
P M me with e-mail address ,will shoot the pic back !

tspoof
10-05-2007, 05:14 PM
Is #25 the actuators?
http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/data/500/valvebody.jpg

Dr B
10-05-2007, 06:49 PM
YUP !
and #26 is the buss plate ,should check this for poor connections
where the actuator terminals connect,as well as the wire plug conn.

tspoof
10-05-2007, 07:21 PM
So I'm pretty much commited now...I got it all apart.

Which one is the pressure control solenoid? 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5.
I beleive it is #1 (on the bottom).

Also, is the Pressure Control Solenoid also known as the "Line Pressure"? Thank you so much.
http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/data/500/100_4157-2.jpg

Bill Murray
10-05-2007, 07:40 PM
in your posted picture
line pressure is #1
#2 is shift solenoid 2
#3 is tcc solenoid
#4 is shift solenoid 3
#5 is shift solenoid 4

the manual says to reset adaptives after changing the line pressure solenoid
I'm not sure how to do that without a Tec 2 tool
in any event make a few dozen low & medium throttle shifts through all the ranges before making any full throttle shifts to allow the adaptive feature to tune in your shifts

Dr B
10-05-2007, 07:43 PM
Yes it is # 1
#2=2nd
#3=tcc
#4=3rd
#5= 4th by your illustration !
You should have pics from Kodak image

Low Saturn
10-05-2007, 07:49 PM
Resetting Adaptive Parameters

Because the PCM has the ability to adapt to various transaxle conditions, it is necessary to reset the adaptive parameters after certain repairs have been performed. The adaptives can be reset using the Service Stall System (SSS) or using a Scan tool. The adaptives should only be reset after the following repairs have been made:

-Replacing a transaxle
-Replacing a TCC or PC solenoid
-Transaxle overhaul when new clutch plates are installed
-Replacing a valvebody
-Replacing the PCM for a transaxle related failure


Important

When replacing the PCM for an engine related problem the transaxle adaptives should be transferred from the old PCM to the new PCM.


After performing a repair, the vehicle must be driven to allow the adaptives to learn new shift times and pressures before returning the vehicle to a customer. Refer to Learn-In procedure below.


Learn-In Procedure:

If one of the repairs mentioned has been performed, then the adaptives should be reset using the SSS or using a Scan tool. Also, the vehicle must be driven, preferably on a highway, according to the following steps. By following these steps, the adaptives will be properly learned prior to returning the vehicle to the customer.

1. Warm up the transaxle fluid temperature above 45C (113F).
2. Perform 10 sets of upshift (1-2, 2-3, 3-4) at 30% throttle:
----For DOHC (LL0) Engine
******While coasting at 56 km/h (35 mph) slowly accelerate to half throttle to achieve a 4-3 downshift.
******With selector in D3 while coasting at 32 km/h (20 mph) slowly accelerate to 75% throttle to achieve a 3-2 downshift. Repeat both procedures five times.
----For SOHC (L24) Engine
******While coasting at 64 km/h (40 mph) slowly accelerate to half throttle to achieve a 4-3 downshift.
******With selector in D3 while coasting at 48 km/h (30 mph) slowly accelerate to one half throttle to achieve a 3-2 downshift. Repeat both procedures five times.

plastic torpedo
10-06-2007, 01:14 AM
Alright! I didn't know you could replace single solenoids. I never had to :D
But hey that's pretty cool :cool:

tspoof
10-06-2007, 03:55 PM
Job complete. $70 (for the solenoid) and ~5 hours later the problem is solved.

http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/data/500/thumbs/100_4181.jpg (http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/data/500/100_4181.jpg)

My buss plate looked good so I did not replace it ($160).

Thank you everyone for your help.

OU812
10-06-2007, 04:28 PM
Would you follow the same procedure for a 97 SW2?

OU812
10-07-2007, 01:33 PM
Would you follow the same procedure for a 97 SW2?

BUMP.......

plastic torpedo
10-07-2007, 05:14 PM
yup, same valve body

tspoof
10-08-2007, 05:33 PM
I made and posted a YouTube video of my solenoid replacement. My way of giving back for all the help I received:). I suppose it could also be helpful to people doing a valve body replacement.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUSSj_2eHUY

Let me know if you have any questions.

OU812
10-08-2007, 06:21 PM
Nice video, i bought the solenoid today so ill give it a shot this week

Thanks

Bill Murray
10-08-2007, 08:36 PM
Great work. I like the bolt holder template to assure correct reassembly.
Novice mechanics take note.

Your trans looks nice and clean inside too. :)

XenonGT
04-01-2008, 11:31 PM
This topic was very helpful to me.

My wife's SC2 started slamming every gear last Thursday out of the blue. I also found a leaking trans cooler line as well. I changed the line without any fix so I searched up transmission stuff. I found this topic and video so I decided to give it a shot since it looked like a piece of cake (I installed an engine by myself last fall in my 96 SL2). I went to the junkyard on Monday morning, picked up a valve body from a 93 SL2 for $20. After getting home from school, I took her valve body apart and disected the 93 unit. After checking everything to make sure they were interchangable, I swapped the line pressure solenoid and took it for a spin. Problem solved. Whole repair was done in about 45 minutes.

She says it is shifting very smooth now.

This thread really helped me save a bunch of money.

Thanks
Now I just have to address the reverse slam in the 96. :lol:

rc1488
04-02-2008, 02:29 AM
Can anyone point me in the direction of instructions for replacing the Pressure Control Solenoid in the automatic transmission

Sorry I wasnt on earlier:/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUSSj_2eHUY
Video provided by someone OTHER than richpin :)

Gbic
04-06-2008, 10:08 AM
This thread matches my exact problem. Does anyone know of an online parts store so I can order these solenoids? AUTOZONE here is useless, I can try NAPA tomorrow when they open. Thanks a bunch!

Gbic
04-06-2008, 04:18 PM
To answer my own question...

www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Saturn_transmission_solenoid_p/320-00032393a.htm

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=24

This thread matches my exact problem. Does anyone know of an online parts store so I can order these solenoids? AUTOZONE here is useless, I can try NAPA tomorrow when they open. Thanks a bunch!

Gbic
04-07-2008, 02:35 PM
I just finished replacing the pressure solenoid (actuator) on my 98 SL1. All is fine. This thread was excellent, the youtube video was excellent, especially using the cardboard template. I would have replaced 2 of the oldest of the 5 actuators but only the local Saturn dealer had 'em in stock and I had to shell out $96 for one , you can get 2 for that price online, but I was impatient. I'm still waiting for my kiss!! :dizzy: Thanks to all, still a cheap fix for something that sounded expensive to fix. I love my 35-40 mpg ride.

eftekar
04-28-2008, 09:08 PM
I THANK THIS THREAD!

Not only is the slamming in my wifes car fixed, it was done without buying a rebuilt valve body.... just a simple solenoid replacement and it now shifts smooth as silk.

$65 spent is a lot better than $250ish!

THANKS!

Special Forces
04-28-2008, 09:15 PM
I THANK THIS THREAD!

Not only is the slamming in my wifes car fixed, it was done without buying a rebuilt valve body.... just a simple solenoid replacement and it now shifts smooth as silk.

$65 spent is a lot better than $250ish!

THANKS!

Very nice. Congrats.

dale1627
05-08-2008, 12:14 PM
Hello all. New to posting here but I have browsed around for awhile and have found a wealth of information. I believe that the same solenoid would fix my problem but would like a few opinions from everyone. My 99 SL2 seems to have the same problem as the original poster's. When cold the transmission shifts fine except for a slight bump going into reverse. If I drive the car for awhile with several stop and starts it begins to hesitate when shifting and then slam into the next gear. At times it does not want to shift into 2nd and 3rd until it cools back down. Does it seem to reason that replacing the line pressure solenoid would cure my problem? I have already checked my input shaft nut and it was fine, not loose at all, but replaced and torqued it anyway since I had it apart.

Dale

d_rock
05-18-2008, 04:16 AM
Dale, search for my recent thread and you'll see some great replies in there, specifically how to check for bad solenoids!

edlee showed me how he found his bad solenoid, by checking the impedance with a volt meter.

I am going to be checking my solenoids tomorrow using tspoof's video and edlee's information.

Two more questions for this thread:
1. do bad solenoids always trigger a SES light? My brother has reverse slam but no SES light associated with it.
2. Where exactly is the input shaft nut and how much is a new one?

sc95auto
06-09-2008, 05:59 AM
is there any need for any new gaskets when performing this procedure? I'll likely be replacing the solenoid this week and just wondering if there are any gaskets to be replaced along the way.
thanks
-Dan

JohnASmith
08-10-2008, 08:47 PM
The YouTube video made the job possible for me. I probably wouldn't have tried it otherwise. It took me four hours including fluid and filter change and it worked. My Saturn is a 2002 SL-2 and I did not have to remove the transmission mount or loosen the master cylinder to get easy access to the valve body so that made it a bit easier. It actually wasn't much harder that a tune up and an oil change but no matter how many times I read the posts on the subject it didn't make sense until I saw it being none. Thanks you so much. In case you missed the link her it is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUSSj_2eHUY

97sl2DOHCaut1.9
08-10-2008, 09:12 PM
Good thread ... I'm having delayed/strange/double shifts from 2nd to 3rd. Would replacing a solenoid possibly clear this problem up ?? Which 1 of the 5 may have to be
replaced ??

JohnASmith
08-11-2008, 10:00 AM
Good thread ... I'm having delayed/strange/double shifts from 2nd to 3rd. Would replacing a solenoid possibly clear this problem up ?? Which 1 of the 5 may have to be
replaced ??

I am far from an expert on the subject but I would give it a go. You could replace all 5 solenoids for about $300 or take a bit of a chance. I would at least replace the one at the front since it controls the pressure and works the hardest. I would next replace #4 since it looks like it controls 3rd gear. Once you do this once it would probably only take a couple of hours to do it again so a lot depends on how much time you have. I read an account of a guy who replaced only the pressure control solenoid and then moved the other four to different positions. They are identical by the way.
The one thing I did not know was the correct torque of the valve body cover bolts. I did my best to quess-timate it but I wish I had that info before I started.

richpin06
08-11-2008, 12:02 PM
Video provided by someone OTHER than richpin :)

What What What.............:)

bdobraj
05-10-2009, 05:46 PM
What What What.............:)

what bolts do you need to remove in order to see the plat and sloenoids?

edlee
05-10-2009, 08:35 PM
Did you not notice the link to the video which shows you what bolts you need to remove?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUSSj_2eHUY

smithgsx
05-10-2009, 10:51 PM
another new poster here. having similar problems, and i need to figure it out. starting out cold, it shift great. once it warms up though, it shifts at a high RPM/ doesnt shift at all. also, it doesnt want to kick into gear all the way when it gets warm. would that bethe pressure control solenoid or something else? oh, btw, this is on a 1993 saturn sl1. and the link that is given for parts on the top of the page has solenoids for 1995-01, are they still identical?

rc1488
05-10-2009, 11:12 PM
another new poster here. having similar problems, and i need to figure it out. starting out cold, it shift great. once it warms up though, it shifts at a high RPM/ doesnt shift at all. also, it doesnt want to kick into gear all the way when it gets warm. would that bethe pressure control solenoid or something else? oh, btw, this is on a 1993 saturn sl1. and the link that is given for parts on the top of the page has solenoids for 1995-01, are they still identical?

You should also include in your post any extra information that you notice. Such as how your lights dim when the brake pedal is pressed :)

edlee
05-10-2009, 11:25 PM
If you don't have any on-board diagnostic codes, then maybe you need new transmission fluid. Losing the line pressure solenoid will cause all gears to fail on an SL1. The problem might be with another transmission solenoid.

smithgsx
05-11-2009, 11:32 PM
what other sensors/solenoids could be doing this? i just replaced the fluid and filter 1000 miles ago and even before i did the fluid was still dark pink. btw, the PCM is brand new. i need this fixed quick, i hope someone knows/has had this problem before.

edlee
05-11-2009, 11:53 PM
You are a new member, so have you changed your engine coolant temperature sensor to a brass-tipped one?

smithgsx
05-12-2009, 10:41 PM
can a bad ECTS cause the trans not to shift/kick out of gear?

edlee
05-13-2009, 01:15 AM
I don't have first hand experience with a bad engine coolant temperature sensor, but changing the plastic-tipped engine coolant temperature sensor with a brass-tipped one is a good idea if you have never done so and are the original owner of the car. The wrong temperature reading has the potential to mess up the fuel/air mixture in the engine.

rc1488
05-13-2009, 11:45 AM
can a bad ECTS cause the trans not to shift/kick out of gear?

Yes. It is used for tranny shift points along with Torque converter lock up points.

Mine on my old '97 would not lock the TC in 4th gear. Replaced ECTS, and all is good

97sc1pleasehelp
05-13-2009, 10:07 PM
Please help me I just replaced my valve body with a rebuilt 1 because i had a reverse slam and it slipped now with the new valve body it still slips and it has a code of po733 incorrect 3rd gear ratio all of the solenoids are new in the valve body I am so confused an i have to fix the car so i can sell it i just lost my job please help any help would be great thank you

smithgsx
05-13-2009, 10:48 PM
i checked over all my sensors, and most are new, including the ECTS and connector. now it seems like it kicks out of gear when warm only, you think it could be the torque converter itself? the PCM is brand new, along with sensors, filter and fluid. but theres no engine light on and it resets when i turn it off then on again. god im lost....

rc1488
05-13-2009, 11:11 PM
i checked over all my sensors, and most are new, including the ECTS and connector. now it seems like it kicks out of gear when warm only, you think it could be the torque converter itself? the PCM is brand new, along with sensors, filter and fluid. but theres no engine light on and it resets when i turn it off then on again. god im lost....

Have you checked the charging system?

Please help me I just replaced my valve body with a rebuilt 1 because i had a reverse slam and it slipped now with the new valve body it still slips and it has a code of po733 incorrect 3rd gear ratio all of the solenoids are new in the valve body I am so confused an i have to fix the car so i can sell it i just lost my job please help any help would be great thank you

Where did you get the new VB? Special forces is the recommended person to buy VB from.

edlee
05-15-2009, 01:31 AM
Some problems with the transmission can be solved by draining the old transmission fluid and adding new transmission fluid. In Richpin's video procedure for inspecting the differential pin, Richpin shows how to drain the transmission fluid from underneath the Saturn vehicle:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gqhGC5vKDY

Regarding reverse slam, there is a topic in the how-to section of this web site regarding replacing and tightening the input shaft nut.

Special Forces
05-15-2009, 10:00 AM
Some problems with the transmission can be solved by draining the old transmission fluid and adding new transmission fluid. In Richpin's video procedure for inspecting the differential pin, Richpin shows how to drain the transmission fluid from underneath the Saturn vehicle:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gqhGC5vKDY

Regarding reverse slam, there is a topic in the how-to section of this web site regarding replacing and tightening the input shaft nut.

Replacing the fluid at the point of symptoms means the damage is already done. You are on borrowed time at that point. Sometimes if it is caught early enough you can clean out the debris that is causing the bore in the booster valve to wear down. Most of the time that has happened already and the new fluid washes away the debris and the bore is now not sealing.

The reverse slam and tightening the input shaft nuts is only repairing the symptom not the source. You have to fix why the input shaft nuts loosened first otherwise you'll be doing this repair every 5k-10k miles depending on the severity of the slam. Fixing the valve body is the source, fixing the input shaft nut is fixing the consequences of a bad valve body. Doing one before the other or one and not the other makes no sense.

smithgsx
05-15-2009, 11:05 PM
then why does it reset when i shut it off and turn it back on while driving? and it only started happening after the dealer put the new PCM in. does the valve body somehow reset??

Special Forces
05-16-2009, 11:59 AM
then why does it reset when i shut it off and turn it back on while driving? and it only started happening after the dealer put the new PCM in. does the valve body somehow reset??

Since the transmission is electronically shifted, you are experiencing an electrical issue. It sounds like you have a bad solenoid or the charging system is not sending the proper voltage to shift. If the alternator is not putting out the proper voltage levels then the transmission cannot shift. By shutting off the car and turning it back on your resetting something within the system so that it goes back to the default.

It can be a solenoid or it can be a charging system issue.

thesameguy
08-26-2009, 10:22 PM
To dredge this thread up...

Resetting Adaptive Parameters

Because the PCM has the ability to adapt to various transaxle conditions, it is necessary to reset the adaptive parameters after certain repairs have been performed. The adaptives can be reset using the Service Stall System (SSS) or using a Scan tool. The adaptives should only be reset after the following repairs have been made:

Is there any other way to reset the adaptives? I'm assuming a more or less generic ODBII tool is not a sufficient "scan tool" to perform the job, yeah?

TobyU
09-04-2009, 06:21 PM
First post!!! Hello all.
This is by far the BEST place I have seen for Saturn info.

I just became a first time Saturn owner about 2 weeks ago... a 94 SW1 SOHC Auto.

When I go it, it was a little slow going into reverse but no slam. After it got hot, it would loose 3rd and sometimes 2nd. I got code 22 and 23 several repeatedly with the flashing hot light.
This was just getting it home.

I changed the fluid and added a cleaner additive and new filter. I did Wolfman's reverse fix too.

It got a lot better and so I put some miles on it.

At it's best, it would drive just fine but eventually when hot, it would loose 3rd and set code 23.
I thought the pressure solenoid is probably not doing it's job and the pcm is detecting slip and locking out 3rd.

SO.... today I switched the pressure solenoid with the
4th gear one.

After it was back together it is slamming all forward gears now. The line pressure must be to the MAX!

I tried the relearn procedure and nothig seems to change.
It hits 2nd super hard and third really hard also.

Now I am confused :dizzy:

I am more than likely going to have to get the money for a reman valve body. I am afraid to try a used one unless I get it darn cheap.

I did ohm out the solenoids and the pressure original one was 4.2 and the others were 4.6 and one was 4.8 I think.

Thanks to all for any help and thanks for a GREAT forum.

94 SW1 My first Saturn
Beavercreek/Dayton OH

jcasekim
09-05-2009, 01:24 AM
Make sure ECTS isn't the original plastic-tipped one, and that connector to that sensor isn't corroded.

Verify alternator can put out enough voltage when running.

If you're on the original VB, the pressure control valve might be worn out in which case it's having trouble building pressure when it's warm and the transmission fluid is thinner. If the valve in the VB is worn, then switching/replacing the solenoids won't help and you need a rebuilt or JY TB. You could contact Special Forces or Plastic Torpedo about a rebuilt VB.

though I think your solenoids are testing low on the resistance... aren't they supposed to measure between 5 and 8 Ohms?

TobyU
09-05-2009, 03:58 AM
I have no idea what specs are fo the solenoids.....but I think it is fixed...!!!
After 36 miles, the learning finally turned the line pressure down.
It seems perfect now. Nice smooth shifts at normal throttle and under hard accelleration it shifts very firm like it should. I drove on freeway for a long time in 4th and got it good and hot and back and forth city and freeway and it has preformed flawlessly.

I expect problems out of 4th now that original pressure solenoid is th 4th slot, but I figure it works so much less there then in the pressure spot. I do not know whether the sol is energized when 4th is applied, or energized all the time and voltage is not going to it when 4th is engaged. Could be designed either way I guess.
I just know it drives great now.
Thanks to all for the great info and great pics and diagrams of what solenoids are in what positions.

I have learned a lot in 2 weeks.
This is my first, but will not be my last Saturn.

plasticoupe
09-08-2009, 03:16 AM
Are all the solenoids actually the same part, just plugged into different positions on/in the VB?

plasticoupe
09-10-2009, 02:31 AM
Bump!

lil_buddy
09-10-2009, 11:34 AM
Are all the solenoids actually the same part, just plugged into different positions on/in the VB?

yes they are

plasticoupe
09-13-2009, 01:40 PM
yes they are

Thanks. This is a really informative forum and a welcome change from most of the 'enthusiast' websites full of exaggerated claims & nonsense.

Always a couple more questions...

Other than avoiding #1) on the id. picture,the Transmission Pressure Control Solenoid, is there a consensus on which of the solenoids would have the least amount of wear or build-up of debris?

Is there any way to clean the debris out of a used solenoid (that's still showing the "normal" 4.7 to 4.8 ohms resistance)?

It does seem strange to me, that the manufacturer of such a good car has continued to use a trans that seems to have the same essential core problems, caused by debris accumulation(?), over & over, without any significant fixes or upgrades. As I understand it, the trans has 2 ATF filters, only one of which is accessible without a teardown. Would one of the auxiliary transmission line filters be of any benefit in preventing debris accumulation?

TIA

phoenix42
12-28-2009, 09:10 PM
At the risk of joining this conversation late, my 98 SC1 threw a P0773 "Shift Solenoid E Electrical" code in reading that all the solenoids are interchangeable would it just be best to buy a new one and just replace the bad unit? or is there a specific solenoid that jumped ship on me?

phoenix42
01-11-2010, 11:18 AM
well I spent a couple of hours sat tearing open the car and replaced the Line pressure solenoid... seems to have fixed the problem for reverse slam and gear kick up shifting... thanks a million for the guides!!

devilock
05-18-2010, 02:43 PM
for diagnosing purposes before buying a new solenoid could i just switch say the 4th for the 1st and see if reverse slam and hard shifting improves?

edlee
05-18-2010, 07:51 PM
You could try rearranging the solenoids, and that has worked for some people. Your time is probably worth more than the price of a multimeter that you can buy at a RadioShack or Home Depot. You can buy a digital multimeter for less than $5 on eBay, including shipping. The impedance across the solenoid terminals should be around 4.7 Ohms. The reading will vary with temperature, so what you are really looking for is a significant difference in impedance among the solenoids. I once had a 4th gear transmission solenoid with an impedance of 1.0 or so, and that was like a big flashing neon sign that something was wrong with that solenoid. It's like that song on some PBS childrens' show long ago, "Which one is not like the others? Which one doesn't belong?"

I recently had to change my 4th gear transmission solenoid again, because Jiffy Lube apparently does not do a good job of changing the transmission fluid. Instead of draining the transmission fluid through the 15mm drain bolt, Jiffy Lube tries to suck out the transmission fluid through the dipstick tube. I went to a local car shop, and the guy who changed my transmission fluid said that it was, "very black," and recommended that I come back in a week to change the transmission fluid again. Jiffy Lube supposedly changed that transmission fluid less than a year ago.

TCCustoms
06-17-2010, 06:52 PM
man, im in a tight spot and dunno what to do!!!!

Ive replaced the valvebody, did the nut tightening, and changed the ECTS and reset the PCM when doin the ECTS(or pulled the PCM B fuse). Symptoms are still there but not as bad....dunno what to do? Should i pull the alternator and have it serviced or stop at autozone and have them check it or not worth the time? Im about to sell the car becuz this has been a solid week of working on this stuff and NO RESULTS.

And yes, when i hit the brakes when idling the lights dim alittle and i have all 4 lights on at once with the passenger side being normal brightness but if i have low beams on the high is dim and reverse if high beams are on the dim is low. Here is a link for the Headlight Thread (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154313) and pics but i have now lost my DRL's and my headlights work but still being dumb

ShawnV
06-17-2010, 08:43 PM
It sounds like you're talking about two symptoms here: reverse slam/ no reverse -and- electrical problems?

When you did the valve body did you use a new one or a junkyard one? Did you check the ohms on each solenoid? It will take your car a few miles to learn the new shifts with the new VB.


With the electrical - check with the engine off that you have ~12volts on the battery and then with the engine on and headlights on, ac fan on full, stereo blasting you should have ~14 volts on the battery.

TCCustoms
06-18-2010, 10:38 PM
reman valvebody and ive drove over 100 miles so i would think it would have relearned but it wasnt right after the swap...if i want to reset the adaptives do i have to do it the first drive after reconnecting or will it do it over multiple drives as mine are multiple drives and not one solid one after the swap. Also, no i didnt check the solenoids when i got the new as i assumed it would be fine and i checked all the original ones(from the BV i removed) and all tested at 4.5ohms(all 5 were the same)

npdimonte
06-20-2010, 02:01 PM
Great link, I thought my tranny was a goner when it started to slam in every gear, but discovered that it was a actuator solenoid.

I have a '93 SL2, so I was able to run an audible test and discovered that the line actuator wasn't working. Test is simple, jumper the A & B terminal and then turn the key on, engine off. First I noticed that I had two engine codes, flag 68 (line actuator) & flag 95 (line actuator intermittent). During this time you can move the gear selector out of park to test the five actuators in the VB.
N = Line Actuator
R = TCC Actuator
D = 4th Actuator
3 = 3rd Actuator
2 = 2nd Actuator
Each position will modulate the corresponding actuator for about six seconds, in my case I wasn't able to hear the line actuator.

I then measured the resistance of all the coils at the 10 pin actuator connector and the line actuator measured 8.2 ohms while the others averaged about 5.3 ohms, so both the audible and resistance test along with the codes pointed to the line actuator. Note: the bus plate added 0.5 ohms to each actuator.

Before I started to tear in to this repair, I tried to buy this actuator at the local parts stores and the Chevy dealership, only Chevy had a listing but no stock. I didn't want to wait for for the online order so I found a whole VB from a '95 SL1 from a friend ($0):), swapped an actuator from it into my line actuator, slapped it all together, runs normal again.

I did not have to reset anything, maybe because the battery was disconnected and/or this '93 has a OBDI system? In any case I'm back to normal.

Thanks for this link, total cost was only in my time.

TCCustoms
06-20-2010, 09:51 PM
where can you get the wiring diagram and the wire colors for that cuz i would like to test mine while the temps are hot and only done on that connector since the fluid will also be...lol. I want to see if the solenoid is failing once it gets hot from city driving or if its still good and need to investigate deeper.

Did you unplug your connector and test it or just push the ends of the tester into the outer case of the valvebody and leave the wiring harness plugged into it??

w4ett
06-20-2010, 10:54 PM
where can you get the wiring diagram and the wire colors for that cuz i would like to test mine while the temps are hot and only done on that connector since the fluid will also be...lol. I want to see if the solenoid is failing once it gets hot from city driving or if its still good and need to investigate deeper.

Here Ya Go

npdimonte
06-21-2010, 08:34 AM
where can you get the wiring diagram and the wire colors for that cuz i would like to test mine while the temps are hot and only done on that connector since the fluid will also be...lol. I want to see if the solenoid is failing once it gets hot from city driving or if its still good and need to investigate deeper.

Did you unplug your connector and test it or just push the ends of the tester into the outer case of the valvebody and leave the wiring harness plugged into it??

I had unplugged it and you will see the pin-out the w4ett had posted below your post. I will add that the 'K' and 'A' pins are facing the front of the car.

TCCustoms
06-21-2010, 12:12 PM
kool, thanks guys! i may just take my tester home tonight and see what it reads after driving home from work and see what it comes up with. I dropped my fluid level some after noticing that when i did the end cover to torque the shaft nuts that i might have added a bit much even tho i checked it but im sure i prolly screwed that up, lol. We'll see what happens if it gets hot and i check it while its starting to slam if it does it anymore...Thanks for all the help guys!

TCCustoms
07-03-2010, 11:03 PM
everything was good for awhile and once the car got hot sitting in traffic as i slowed down and it downshifted into first it kinda jumped as it downshifts and it started to slam again....this is BS! I use to love these cars and this is just driving me to hate them.

Can it be an ECU failure or what do i need to do becuz i cant handle this anymore....

sirpjmud
08-18-2010, 09:27 AM
TS,
where did you buy the solenoid from?

npdimonte
08-18-2010, 11:24 AM
Junk yard. About 10-min to take off if no ABS brakes. I just grabbed the whole VB and removed the solenoid at home.

w4ett
08-18-2010, 12:54 PM
Just to chime in too....I got mine on EBay....Genuine Borg-Warner:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SATURN-TAAT-3RD-DESIGN-BORG-WARNER-OEM-SOLENOID-91-ON-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ290414488229QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Chazberry
08-18-2010, 06:26 PM
Just to chime in too....I got mine on EBay....

Cheaper still . . .
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Saturn_transmission_solenoid_p/320-00032393a.htm

w4ett
08-18-2010, 08:06 PM
Cheaper still . . .
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Saturn_transmission_solenoid_p/320-00032393a.htm

True Chazberry....BUT.....with respect...check the shipping...the EBay item is still $3.46 cheaper...I got same day shipping and received it in 2 days from California to Tennessee.....Great Customer Service. :yes:

Chazberry
08-18-2010, 09:06 PM
True Chazberry....BUT.....with respect...check the shipping...

Dooooh! Tricked again!

sirpjmud
08-19-2010, 09:14 AM
Does this also apply to SL2 , SW2 models?

npdimonte
08-19-2010, 09:44 AM
Spent $20 at the junk yard for the VB, which gave me 5 solenoids to choose from. In my case, all five were good. that's a $200+ savings.

TCCustoms
08-19-2010, 05:19 PM
Spent $20 at the junk yard for the VB, which gave me 5 solenoids to choose from. In my case, all five were good. that's a $200+ savings.

Ditto, i bought a $110 valvebody with 2 year warranty and kept my other 4 solenoids since the pressure one was the only bad one....so i got 4 extra ones

campus189
08-19-2010, 06:31 PM
Here Ya Go

What is the difference between the two attachments ?
Noticed they are different than the one posted here ..

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157027&highlight=TAAT

yellowxj
09-10-2010, 07:39 PM
Your help is greatly appreciated. I just swapped in the line pressure solenoid from a good used trans that I have as a spare. It made the forward and reverse shift feel perfect again but the shift to 3rd and OD still have a noticeable clunk. Do I have to let the computer relearn after installing a strange solenoid? changed the filter while I had access. Thanks for contributing.

npdimonte
09-13-2010, 09:26 AM
Do I have to let the computer relearn after installing a strange solenoid?

I did not have to do that even thou the service manual says you have to. You may have to drive it for some time for the ECM to adjust. Try driving both highway and city for about 100 miles, hopefully, the ECM would relearn by then. I don't believe disconnecting the battery will help, but you can try that also, it might force it to relearn.

yellowxj
09-18-2010, 12:22 PM
Turns out that after about 30 miles it started shifting right. :yes:
Still have to put a lift kit on the car...sits too low for my wife and I...

robert98374
02-06-2011, 09:01 PM
Thanks so much for all the information here! I am trying to build up the courage to tear into my tranny to replace mine and a few other things that i need to do....

york21165
05-09-2011, 03:39 AM
This has been a very informative post for me. It seems we need to replace this solenoid in our 2002 SL1. Can anyone tell me what part # this solenoid is or possibly provide a link to where I can purchase one? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks...

w4ett
05-09-2011, 05:43 AM
This has been a very informative post for me. It seems we need to replace this solenoid in our 2002 SL1. Can anyone tell me what part # this solenoid is or possibly provide a link to where I can purchase one? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SATURN-TRANSMISSION-SOLENOID-taat-actuator-BRAND-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a7154bb7QQitemZ23043 6457399QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

:D

york21165
05-09-2011, 07:48 AM
thanks w4ett! do you happen to know if i need to change the gasket when i do the solenoid change?

OU812
05-09-2011, 08:13 AM
thanks w4ett! do you happen to know if i need to change the gasket when i do the solenoid change?

If the gasket is in good condition you can reuse it. Ive removed the cover from my valve body at least 10 times and never had to replace it.

JohnASmith
05-09-2011, 12:07 PM
I just replaced my pressure control solenoid for the second time. The first time was @ 28K miles and this time @ almost 90K miles. The rubber gasket was still perfect. The entire process took me 3 hours this time. What's up with those solenoids though?

w4ett
05-09-2011, 08:17 PM
thanks w4ett! do you happen to know if i need to change the gasket when i do the solenoid change?

I've reused mine twice with no problems.

robert98374
08-28-2011, 01:21 PM
hey guys and gals i have some questions,

First i am replacing one of my solenoids but just to check the others to make sure its only one that needs to be replaced, what voltage should they be running at and is there a special way to test?

Second the solenoid that i bought from the website that was recommended looks a little bit different. Everything is stating that its should work but they have a no install return policy.

Right now i just switched two of the solenoid to double check that its one specific solenoid that's the issue, after that ill post the some pictures of the old solenoid and the new one and if i could get some opinions on if that's the way their supposed to look would be fantastic.

JohnASmith
08-28-2011, 02:28 PM
It is a pretty exact fit so I would be suspicious of anything that looks different. It is too much work to have to do over so I would buy a new OEM solenoid/actuator. I don't think you would be looking at the voltage to the actuator but rather ohms at the actuator coil. The ones I replaced tested fine but still didn't work right. Call your local Saturn service center and get the correct part # then check the price at www.gmpartsdirect.com The parts I have bought from them have been 30 to 40% off.

campus189
08-29-2011, 12:59 PM
hey guys and gals i have some questions,

First i am replacing one of my solenoids but just to check the others to make sure its only one that needs to be replaced, what voltage should they be running at and is there a special way to test?

Second the solenoid that i bought from the website that was recommended looks a little bit different. Everything is stating that its should work but they have a no install return policy.

Right now i just switched two of the solenoid to double check that its one specific solenoid that's the issue, after that ill post the some pictures of the old solenoid and the new one and if i could get some opinions on if that's the way their supposed to look would be fantastic.

Try this-Saturn TAAT Transmission Solenoid Testing & Replacing with valve body removed. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yez2cQL1ob8)

Or this...
Saturn TAAT Transmission Solenoid Testing with valve body cover on. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tDmBlKn2jI)

robert98374
09-04-2011, 02:15 PM
I ended up heading over to the local pick and pull and bought the entire bus plate for $38 and that was half price and including a core charge...vs the $60 including shipping. I replaced one of the solenoids thinking it was specific to a gear but it turns out once i tested the rest it was the line pressure solenoid that was bad...my question that i have is there are two ball bearings that are in the bottom of the valve body and i cant remember where they went exactly, and since they are soo small i dont exactly want to use a trial and error method to put them in random holes since they will fit in the screw holes

robert98374
09-04-2011, 03:40 PM
Oh and thanks for the links to those videos, they were a great help once i went to the junk yard and was looking for good solenoids

robert98374
09-04-2011, 05:15 PM
whats going to be the best way to get something that has fallen into the transmission underneath the gears? As i was screwing the in the valve body a part that goes on the top of the valve body on the upper left side fell into the transmission and slid under the gears, whats going to be the easiest way to get it when there is no pan underneath that it would be sitting in?

robert98374
09-05-2011, 01:07 AM
thank god for magnet on a stick! Got the magnet wiggled under the gears and grabbed w/e the part is and humpdy dumpdy is all put back together again!

campus189
09-05-2011, 11:39 AM
thank god for magnet on a stick! Got the magnet wiggled under the gears and grabbed w/e the part is and humpdy dumpdy is all put back together again!

Glad it all worked out for you :yes:

jd6829
09-06-2011, 07:19 PM
I recently replaced my Pressure Control Solenoid and messed up! The connector on top of the valve body came undone and all the metal pins going into it popped out. I have read to be careful when doing it (obviously wasn't), but cant find anything about fixing it. I tried to put them all back in, but about had a heart attack. What should i do?

campus189
09-07-2011, 12:10 AM
I recently replaced my Pressure Control Solenoid and messed up! The connector on top of the valve body came undone and all the metal pins going into it popped out. I have read to be careful when doing it (obviously wasn't), but cant find anything about fixing it. I tried to put them all back in, but about had a heart attack. What should i do?

Go to a junk yard, get a used connector & do this..

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20329&d=1280771768

Make sure it looks like this..

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20328&d=1280771768

And not like this....

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20327&d=1280722267

Make sure you cut the wires as long as possible on the junk yard connector.
Also, Solder & use heat shrink tubing , NOT CRIMP your connections.

Fidz
05-18-2012, 08:20 PM
can someone tell me how to see witch solenoid is bad??

Chazberry
05-18-2012, 08:24 PM
can someone tell me how to see witch solenoid is bad??

Your first step is to check Solenoid resistance . . .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tDmBlKn2jI

CP3
05-21-2012, 12:22 PM
Is this the same issue that causes the reverse slam?

Chazberry
05-21-2012, 12:28 PM
Is this the same issue that causes the reverse slam?

It could be. Controlling Line Pressure is key to preventing slamming in all gears.

Speeddog
09-10-2012, 11:51 AM
I'd like to thank all who contributed to this thread.

I recently got a '99 that was suffering from a failed PC solenoid ( the last straw for the previous owner).

The links to the YouTube videos saved me a good bit of head scratching while doing the replacement, as well as confirming the diagnosis prior to spending money!

Hats off to you guys!

I didn't have any experience with the car prior to the bad solenoid, so I've no idea how it shifted before it went bad.

After the PC solenoid replacement, it seemed like the computer was guessing a bit on the timing of the shifts, perhaps some backshifting or a delay between release of the lockup (?) and engaging of the higher gear, nothing horrible, just a bit weird.

~30 miles or so of town/highway driving, and the computer had it all figured out.

All in all, a pretty painless fix.

Now, off to find out about that input shaft nut business, and a little more...

campus189
09-10-2012, 02:32 PM
Everyone here would also like to Thank You including myself, for taking the time & searching the threads to solve your issue:)

A lot of people don't do a search and just post a new thread which gets old really fast.

A lot of us get tired of answering the same questions over and over.
Then we get an attitude when we tell them to search the threads.
I'm just glad that there are people here who make videos on youtube like richpin to make life easier for people.
I know I left some people out there, I appoligize :tear:
Happy to hear you solved your problem on saturnfans. :yes:

2002_SL2
06-11-2013, 02:19 PM
Fellows, another newbie to Saturn here (recently picked-up a used 130K mile 2002 SL2 automatic for the wife and am working on a few issues). This forum is great compared to the often pissy attitude Ive run into over the years on the Honda (have owned 5 CRXs over the years) and Mitsubishi Eclipse forums. This is the first GM car Ive owned since getting burnt badly when I bought a 1982 Camaro new (first three months production) that during the 4 years that I owned it, turned into a money pit. Example- Positraction rear axle had to be rebuilt within two weeks of delivery (and this was a 102hp V6 Berlinetta w/ auto).

Your tips already showed me how to replace a broken door check mechanism- thanks! And I have seen how to tear into the sunroof (it quit working 4 weeks after buying the car). Upcoming task.

After reading multiple posts, I think the problem Im about to relate may be with one or more transmission solenoids.

We recently took our first long trip with the car, and I found that the transmission makes a very hard downshift out of fourth when the vehicle starts up even a mild upgrade if the cruise control is active. I tried feathering the throttle w/o the cruise on and it still downshifts hard, just not as bad. I checked the tranny fluid and it appears clean and red- what I would expect with fairly fresh fluid. Unfortunately, there are no service records.

Driving around town, the transmission shifts smoothly, even into reverse. It does seem to be very hesitant to downshift when I accelerate on a level road in fourth gear. Frankly, I saw better acceleration downshifting from 4th gear out of my wifes 91hp CRX DX that had a 4-sp auto. This SL2 takes a fair amount of throttle depression to force a downshift on a level road while in 4th- a LOT more than I'd expect.

This gear slam is something that Ive never felt before in an automatic transmission vehicle. Even flooring the pedal on my 115K mile '97 Eclipse turbo (4-sp auto), its transmission downshifts smoothly as the turbo rapidly spools-up and the engine revs jump towards redline.

So, is this 4-3 downshift gear slam likely caused by one of the five solenoids going bad, or something else that I can tackle myself? BTW, I have a fair amount of mechanical ability- I've replaced radiators, master cylinders, alternators, shock absorbers, entire exhaust systems (installed header, new hi-flow converter & cat-back), installed both a complete CRX AC system and also cruise control, and even R&R'd a motorized sunroof. (I'm a mechanical engineer and enjoy doing my own auto maintenance and upgrades when feasible.)

Chazberry
06-11-2013, 03:35 PM
So, is this 4-3 downshift gear slam likely caused by one of the five solenoids going bad, or something else that I can tackle myself?

Welcome aboard!
We have another member wrestling with this harsh 4>3 downshift. You can see what he's tried here . . .
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192147

Do you have any codes? I suggest starting a new thread in this Tech section.

2002_SL2
06-11-2013, 06:11 PM
Thanks for the quick reply, Chazberry. No, my car has not thrown any codes. I guess I could pull my ScanGauge II from the Eclipse and double-check.

I read the post that you referred me to. Wow, he really has had his problems!

Sounds like I need to check the individual coils resistance. What a pain, having to pull the battery and open the solenoid cover, just to check the coils, then button everything back up while I order a replacement (if necessary).

Or does a bad coil automatically throw a code?

Chazberry
06-11-2013, 06:49 PM
Sounds like I need to check the individual coils resistance. What a pain, having to pull the battery and open the solenoid cover, just to check the coils, then button everything back up while I order a replacement (if necessary).

You don't have to do all that to check the resistance - just unplug the connector . . .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tDmBlKn2jI

Or does a bad coil automatically throw a code?

Sometimes, but not a code that directly pinpoints a particular Solenoid.

sleevedfreak
06-12-2013, 05:00 PM
I want to say that this Thread is the best. My 99 SL1 lost 4th gear. Check the solenoids and they all were in the range stated on numorus videos linked here. The transmission shifted fine, no slam in any gear to the day it lost 4th gear. more examination of the bus-plate I noticed that it was cracked by where the connector plugs in, and it appears that someone torqued the bolt too tight because the molded side of the plate (directly underneath connector receptical) some of the pins on the plate were also loose. I am assuming that this could be the cause. Any thoughts? Ideas on how to check the plate?

I also found the transmission fluid leak! who ever installed the filter didnt even tighten it, when i grabbed it to put filter wrench on it turned!

Gotta get this back on the road so my daughter stops taking my car!

Chazberry
06-12-2013, 06:14 PM
My 99 SL1 lost 4th gear. Check the solenoids and they all were in the range stated on numorus videos linked here.

Where did you take readings? Right on the Solenoid pins or at the VB Connector pins?

more examination of the bus-plate I noticed that it was cracked by where the connector plugs in, and it appears that someone torqued the bolt too tight because the molded side of the plate (directly underneath connector receptical) some of the pins on the plate were also loose. I am assuming that this could be the cause. Any thoughts? Ideas on how to check the plate?

I would think you would want to replace it if it was cracked, but I guess you could check continuity from the Connector pin to the corresponding Solenoid contact to verify an internal circuit was bad.

Special Forces
06-14-2013, 12:29 PM
Another diagnostic procedure is to swap the 4th gear solenoid to another gear solenoid and see if the problem moves to that gear. If it does, then it's that solenoid that was originally in 4th gear. Solenoids can go bad and still show in-spec resistance.

pkpatel77
01-01-2014, 11:06 PM
I have 2002 saturn Sl2 which i bought in 2004 used (32K at the time). Since 2006, i started having hard-shifts during transmission gear change. As of now car have 99K, still have the same problem. Been driving like that forever, but after reading this thread i feel like replacing the solenoid. I plan to use youtu.be/JUSSj_2eHUY[/url] video to replace it and see if this fixes the problem. I am hoping that someone can point out what tools would i need before embarking on this adventure. Thank you all for your great work in posting.

OU812
01-02-2014, 10:19 AM
I have 2002 saturn Sl2 which i bought in 2004 used (32K at the time). Since 2006, i started having hard-shifts during transmission gear change. As of now car have 99K, still have the same problem. Been driving like that forever, but after reading this thread i feel like replacing the solenoid. I plan to use youtu.be/JUSSj_2eHUY[/url] video to replace it and see if this fixes the problem. I am hoping that someone can point out what tools would i need before embarking on this adventure. Thank you all for your great work in posting.

You can test the solenoids through the electrical connector on top of the
valve body cover, I would try that first.

JohnASmith
01-02-2014, 08:30 PM
You can test the solenoids through the electrical connector on top of the
valve body cover, I would try that first.Since the solenoids aren't usually totally failing but rather just hesitating or sticking please explain how to test them. I've seen this suggestion before but no one has explained how to do it. An ohm test is only verifying the coil is good.
For the OP, you only need basic tools, sockets etc. I followed the YouTube video and it was easier than I expected. In my case all gears were effected so I changed the master solenoid which is the front one. The valve body in the S series Saturn is it's weak link.

Overcast72
05-01-2014, 01:58 PM
Since the solenoids aren't usually totally failing but rather just hesitating or sticking please explain how to test them. I've seen this suggestion before but no one has explained how to do it. An ohm test is only verifying the coil is good.
For the OP, you only need basic tools, sockets etc. I followed the YouTube video and it was easier than I expected. In my case all gears were effected so I changed the master solenoid which is the front one. The valve body in the S series Saturn is it's weak link.

I'd like to thank everyone in the thread as well - and especially those who put together the videos.

My wife's grandfather passed away recently and we got his 2000 Saturn from the estate. It was very well maintained - still in very good shape, but having the shifting issues with it.

From what I gather, it sounds like a pressure control solenoid - shifts erratic - goes from 2 to 3, back to 2 and then 3 again. Sometimes it shifts way too soon, and often it will feel like someone let the clutch out too early and too fast on a manual 'rocking' the car a bit. It also slams in reverse and tends to stick in gear sometimes. I'm wondering if it doesn't need a new valve body and/or a good flush. I already got a new filter, fluid, and some lucas trans conditioner.. I might run it through the reverse slam fix anyway - won't hurt I'm guessing?

So after considering all angles - I'm going to head to the 'pull and save' junkyard this weekend and get a Valve Body there for about $25.00 most likely. I think tonight I'll go ahead and clear the way to the Valve Body and get the right tools together - so when I head out to pull the part, I'll have all the right tools in hand.

I may still get a new solenoid if I can isolate the bad one.

Would it hurt to clean them up with some carburetor cleaner and/or contact cleaner maybe? I have a feeling the pressure control solenoid is the bad one - I was thinking... for $25.00 - I'll get 5 solenoids - odds of having a good one? Hmm, of course - if the rest look good and the ohms are within range; and one is obviously bad - I'll just get new. Although - for $60.00 or so on a new solenoid - it almost nudges me to just get a whole rebuilt valve body.

I figure for $25.00 I can give it a shot; if it doesn't pan out - I might PM someone for a Valve body - if anyone has one available? At worst - I'll end up with an extra one from the junkyard that I can rebuild casually and have on hand. I was thinking about looking for a Saturn there with an 'obvious' problem that's not trans related - maybe have a better shot at a good valve body.

I really want to keep this Saturn in good shape, it's been well maintained and has some sentimental value for the wife - no reason not to. The engine purrs and it's clean inside and out, everything works otherwise.

And.. thanks again all for the helpful information here.

satren2000
05-27-2014, 07:24 PM
Help! I have a 02 sl1 with a bad line pressure solenoid. Went and picked some up at the salvage yard from an sl2. When I got home realized the sl2s had the yellowish top and mine are all black. Sl2s are a little larger but fit in the hole. Will this work? Thanks

Chazberry
05-28-2014, 12:32 AM
Will this work?

Yeah - they're all the same.

Special Forces
05-28-2014, 07:35 AM
Help! I have a 02 sl1 with a bad line pressure solenoid. Went and picked some up at the salvage yard from an sl2. When I got home realized the sl2s had the yellowish top and mine are all black. Sl2s are a little larger but fit in the hole. Will this work? Thanks

Simply different generation of solenoids. The model of car doesn't matter, it was a year generation difference. They'll continue to work as normal.

satren2000
06-02-2014, 10:17 PM
Well I replaced the solenoid and the harsh shifting was cured. But I also have the delayed reverse and no 4th gear. Tries once to go in 4th but revs up and sets off ses then never tries to go back in 4th. After all the searching I have done on here I believe it is either the vb or bad seals in the 4th clutch pack. Does that sound right? Also, all solenoids spec out, nuts are tight, has new plug on it that was there when I purchased the car. They butt spliced it together and had it all wrapped in black tape. How would I check the plug to see if it is getting power to the 4th solenoid. All fuses are good too. Plug socket had some trans fluid in it but I cleaned it out. Didn't see any cracks on buss plate either. Thanks

Special Forces
06-03-2014, 11:02 AM
Well I replaced the solenoid and the harsh shifting was cured. But I also have the delayed reverse and no 4th gear. Tries once to go in 4th but revs up and sets off ses then never tries to go back in 4th. After all the searching I have done on here I believe it is either the vb or bad seals in the 4th clutch pack. Does that sound right? Also, all solenoids spec out, nuts are tight, has new plug on it that was there when I purchased the car. They butt spliced it together and had it all wrapped in black tape. How would I check the plug to see if it is getting power to the 4th solenoid. All fuses are good too. Plug socket had some trans fluid in it but I cleaned it out. Didn't see any cracks on buss plate either. Thanks

You can try swapping the 4th gear solenoid to with one of the junkyard ones you have. The delayed reverse is internal and would be fixed with a rebuilt valve body.

satren2000
06-03-2014, 09:11 PM
Sorry forgot to mention that we did that also. Could the no 4th be the vb too?
I hope cause I don't want to tear this trans apart to fix clutch packs.

Chazberry
06-03-2014, 11:24 PM
Could the no 4th be the vb too?

Maybe this thread will provide a lead . . .
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112229

satren2000
06-04-2014, 03:19 AM
Thanks for the help Special Forces and Chazberry. I had read some about the internal bushing/seal but never could get clarity on it. That link gave me clarity about it now. The thing is, I bought to car 2 weeks ago and the po said that 4th had just quit a week before that. He had the slamming gears since he bought it in Oct. of 13. I fixed the slamming gears with a new line pressure solenoid. 4th was already gone when we took off the cover to inspect the nuts so unless po took it apart a few weeks ago I don't think that's the problem unless the seals are just wore out. Car has 157,000 on it. It did not look like it had been apart. It did have a new wiring harness plug on it but the new one they used has all white wires. I traced the wires using the chart and all are right but 2 wires coming off the car are both light blue. Don't know if they crisscrossed those when they wired it up. But those wires show to go to g3 and g2 which I assume is gear 3 and gear 2. Are there fuses under the dash along with under the hood for the trans? I checked the underhood and they were good. Anyone know what the output voltage should be on the plug terminals? Maybe the 4th gear wire is bad. I am going to do the air test on 4th gear clutch pack in the next few days. But still need to know that if everything else checks out can it still be the vb just screwing with reverse and 4th? Thanks again

Chazberry
06-04-2014, 09:34 AM
It did have a new wiring harness plug on it but the new one they used has all white wires. I traced the wires using the chart and all are right but 2 wires coming off the car are both light blue. Don't know if they crisscrossed those when they wired it up. But those wires show to go to g3 and g2 which I assume is gear 3 and gear 2. Are there fuses under the dash along with under the hood for the trans? I checked the underhood and they were good. Anyone know what the output voltage should be on the plug terminals?

I guess you've seen this schematic . . .
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31268&d=1355417038

Looks like just the Relay under Dash.

But still need to know that if everything else checks out can it still be the vb just screwing with reverse and 4th?

Here's the 'No Reverse' diagnostics fwiw . . .
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1849914&postcount=10

Btw - you might consider starting a new "No Reverse" thread in the Tech section.

satren2000
06-04-2014, 11:01 AM
ok, checked my owners manual and the only relay under the dash for transaxle is also for fuel pump. Fuel pump is working so I assume that relay is good. I have narrowed the delayed reverse to a bad valve body. Now I just need to figure out 4th. I am assuming if valve body is bad that can cause a no 4th gear. How would I check the wire going into the plug for the 4th solenoid. Still learning electronics. I assume red from multimeter to the corresponding wire for 4th, but where do I put the black? also, what should the meter read? Thanks

Chazberry
06-04-2014, 11:30 AM
How would I check the wire going into the plug for the 4th solenoid. Still learning electronics. I assume red from multimeter to the corresponding wire for 4th, but where do I put the black? also, what should the meter read? Thanks

With that Fuel Pump Relay energized you should have 12V on Pin C. Put the Black lead to Gnd anywhere.
The PCM applies Gnd to Pin D to energize the Solenoid. Note that the Solenoid is de-energized for 4th Gear.

satren2000
06-04-2014, 08:26 PM
pulled the vb. which hole do you use to air test 4th pack? and which one is the 4th pack? looks like the front one has been hot.:hothead:

Chazberry
06-04-2014, 11:32 PM
which hole do you use to air test 4th pack?

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27407&d=1329421615

and which one is the 4th pack?

I'm not sure and I'm away from my FSM. Maybe the Air Check will determine that for you.

satren2000
06-05-2014, 11:24 AM
ok, thanks for the info.

Special Forces
06-05-2014, 02:19 PM
This could be as simple as a bad range sensor never getting to 4th. I would also check this sensor and make sure continuity is correct.

tonyman246
06-06-2014, 01:37 AM
What are the chances of this? I have a code p0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off. So i took my multimeter and checked ohms on top the transmission. Each solenoid measured 3.0 exactly? I thought they were supposed to be 4.5-6.0 ohms. What are the chances of all my solenoids being bad?

Special Forces
06-06-2014, 09:17 AM
What are the chances of this? I have a code p0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off. So i took my multimeter and checked ohms on top the transmission. Each solenoid measured 3.0 exactly? I thought they were supposed to be 4.5-6.0 ohms. What are the chances of all my solenoids being bad?

More likely your multi-meter is off, temperature also plays a part in this.

If this is the code you are getting (didn't see that till now) then swap your TCC solenoid with 4th gear. You may not actually have a problem with 4th but what you are feeling is a lack of torque converter lock-up. Sometimes mistakable but there is a noticeable RPM difference between 4th gear and torque converter lock-up.

edlee
06-06-2014, 02:15 PM
If you have a new AA battery, then its voltage should be around 1.5 volts. If that is what you measure, then your multimeter is probably correctly calibrated and all of your solenoids are possibly bad, or you might have an electrical problem somewhere else in your car.

Chazberry
06-06-2014, 02:39 PM
Each solenoid measured 3.0 exactly? I thought they were supposed to be 4.5-6.0 ohms. What are the chances of all my solenoids being bad?

I would say the chances of all 5 Solenoids being 3.0 Ohms is slim to none.
When you touch your meter leads together, do you get 0.0 Ohms?

satren2000
06-06-2014, 05:55 PM
Okay, so I did the pressure test. Couldn't get any of the clutches to move but first second and third all have pressure. 4th did not.so I'm assuming the o-rings and seals on the tubes are either bad or the seals in the clutch pack. Can anyone tell me what seals are in the clutch pack. thanks again

Chazberry
06-06-2014, 06:56 PM
Can anyone tell me what seals are in the clutch pack.

This is a diagram of the 4th Clutch. The seals are not listed separately in the parts list - maybe you have to buy the whole kit? Same story with the Tube Seals . . .
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23037&d=1300563280

Btw - that's the 2nd/3rd Clutch Drum in that photo you posted.

satren2000
06-06-2014, 08:14 PM
okay I'm going to check the tube seals first. But I need to know on that 4th gear diagram which parts are the parts that seal and the number of that part and name of part. Thanks

Chazberry
06-06-2014, 08:51 PM
But I need to know on that 4th gear diagram which parts are the parts that seal and the number of that part and name of part.

I'm thinking Item 332 and 333, but I can't be sure since they are not in the parts list. Maybe try calling these guys . . .
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/Saturn-TAAT.html

satren2000
06-06-2014, 09:19 PM
OK, thanks

satren2000
06-09-2014, 07:39 PM
Removed the end cover. Removed the short tube. When I blow in each hole it comes out of the holes on the edge of the cover. But when I blow in the hole that goes to the long tube I get air coming from around the rubber seal that holds the tube in the cover. I would assume that should not happen. When I blow in the 4th gear shaft I get no pressure. I get pressure when I blow in the other shaft. I want to remove the long tube and put it in the shaft so it will seal in the bushing then blow air in and see if it holds pressure. How do I remove the long tube?

satren2000
06-09-2014, 08:50 PM
Removed long tube. Air blows thru both holes fine. Must be a bad piston!!!!:x

Chazberry
06-09-2014, 11:36 PM
Removed long tube. Air blows thru both holes fine. Must be a bad piston!!!!:x

23 is the 4th Clutch Piston. 25 is Seal to 4th Gear Clutch Hub. 31 says Gasket Seal Kit. Are you thinking about doing a tear down?

satren2000
06-09-2014, 11:55 PM
Yes, thinking about it. Do you know how hard it is? Any special tools? Have to pull the trans. from the car? Thanks

Chazberry
06-10-2014, 06:51 AM
Do you know how hard it is?

Sorry. There was a guy from a transmission shop on here recently looking for help. Apparently we have no members who could.

Any special tools?

The FSM lists 32.

Have to pull the trans. from the car?

Fer sure. PM me - I'll send you what info I have.

OldNuc
06-10-2014, 08:06 AM
When you open up the transmission you are into a complete overhaul. This requires a couple of special tools that are absolutely necessary. The cost of an overhaul kit is about 275-300 and finding any individual clutch assembly parts may be difficult. The usual approach is to just swap out the dud trans. The left side of the cradle has to be dropped down to get it out but that is the easy way to do it. Very few people have done complete autotragic rebuilds as it is tough to justify it economically.

After the trans is on the bench disassembly is not difficult.