View Full Version : Running worse after seafoam? Did I kill my car?

06-11-2007, 08:43 PM
If I am breaking the rules, please delete this post - but I am desperate and I am not getting answers to my questions on other forums. It seems the Saturn people have knowledge about their cars - and all other forums dont have people with answers!

Does anyone have any experience with a vehicle running worse after using seafoam? It was only having a rough idle when cold but ran fine when warm. I used seafoam for the first time through the throttle body - smoked as I was using it, but NO smoke after I started it up again. It ran great for about 2-3 hours,no stalling or rough idle. Then, it started to run horribly EXCEPT when ideling. Seems like it is missing with acceleration, stalling all of the time. What did I do to screw things up? :cry:

06-11-2007, 08:48 PM
Was the engine running when you put seafoam in the throttle body?

Did it stop while you were dumping seafoam into the throttle body?

You should poor it in slowly and not enough to stop the engine. Maybe even rev the engine to keep it going.

Dumping it in way too fast could blow a head gasket or cause other dammage to the head or pistons. If you didn't poor enough in to stop the engine, then your engine should be fine.

06-11-2007, 08:48 PM
A good starting point would be to clean or change out the spark plugs...

06-11-2007, 08:50 PM
A good starting point would be to clean or change out the spark plugs...
Agreed, you might of just fouled the plugs with the burned off carbon deposits.

06-11-2007, 09:16 PM
Yes, the engine did stall once when we were using it - my husband was pouring and I was keeping my foot on the gas to keep it going. When it stalled, I panicked! But it started back up just fine. We used about 1/3 of can. It smoked while pouring it in, but no smoke afterwards. What would the symptoms be if we blew the head gasket? There is no oil loss, no coolant loss, no funny smells, no weird smoke from the exhaust. We actually did this last weekend and like I said, it ran fine for several hours, then started acting funny. There are no SES lights on and we have checked for any codes - nothing.

Afterwards, I changed the spark plugs, air filter, spark plug wires, fuel filter, cleaned the MAF, roter and distributor cap. It ran wonderful- better than ever - for about an hour, but then suddenly died as I was driving into my driveway. We then cleaned the throttle body again and it just went downhill from there. At this point it will idle perfectly (yesterday it ran for 30 minutes not missing or hesitating)- but when I put in into gear - it acts like it is either getting no fuel or no air or something and dies.

I am just sick about it - I am hoping I didnt cause hundreds or thousands of dollars of damage due to a $5.00 can of seafom that everyone seems to love using!:no:

06-11-2007, 09:43 PM
Do you think the treatment somehow "clogged" the exhaust? Try diconnecting it just temporarily and re-test the car? I'm just grabbing at straws.

06-11-2007, 09:55 PM
Afterwards, I changed the spark plugs, air filter, spark plug wires, fuel filter, cleaned the MAF, roter and distributor cap.

I would really help if you told us what vehicle you're talking about because it's not an S-series Saturn. There's no MAF sensor, rotor or distributer cap on an S-series Saturn. So what is it?

06-11-2007, 09:59 PM
I suppose the exhaust is also possible. Blocked C converter?

I havent been able to change the PCV valve - the thing requires taking off the oil filter - difficult to get to. Could this be an issue?

I still have the words - engine rebuild - going in my head.

This was a FREE pickup that I have been using for farm chores - only flaw prior to me practicing my new "mechanical skills" (HA!) on it was the rough idle when cold. Now it idles great when parked- but everything else has gone wrong! (Well, I guess I did fix my problem!:rolleyes: )

I have attempted endless searches online about seafoam and problems and cant find any. I have read about a few engines becoming hydrolocked - but I dont THINK that is my problem. But then again, what do I know?

I REALLY REALLY appreciate all of the input from everyone. I have posted this on 10 other forums - all in everything from truck forums to the Nissan forums - and have gotten NO responses. Another cudos to all of you on this forum!:yes:

06-11-2007, 10:03 PM
BarnOwl -

Its a 1997 Nissan Hardbody PU. It has a KA24E engine - 4 cylinder with 130K miles on it. Its a bare bones PU that has been great for hauling hay to pastures, going to the feedstore, transporting dogs (I do foster care for the rescues around here)..... or was......

06-12-2007, 01:37 AM
What would the symptoms be if we blew the head gasket?

If it just barely died, then you probably didn't blow a head gasket. My worry was that so much went in that it couldn't be compressed. The engine would stop instantly and there would be a huge clunk. As long as he was pouring it in slowly, it shouldn't hurt anything.

I guess it's possible that you clogged the catalytic converter with residue. That would create backpressure which would make the engine hard to run. But I couldn't imagine that there would be that much crud in your cylinders that the seafoam would remove to clog up the CAT. I'm not sure if seafoam turns into goo when it burns, but would imagine it would the the opposite. It should disolve goo when burned and clean out your cylinders and exhaust system (but I'm just guessing about that).

When you changed the spark plugs, did you make sure they were gapped correctly? Were the old plugs clean?

The symptoms of a blown head gasket can be any one of the following: oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, bubbles in the coolant, or white smoke from the exhaust. The symptoms can also be barely noticable.

The rough idle when cold could be a temperature sensor constantly telling the engines computer that the engine is warm when it's cold. When the engine is actually warm, it'll run fine, but when it's cold, the computer won't tell the injectors to inject extra fuel. Sorta like a choke on an old carburator system. (Engines require more fuel to run properly when they're cold.) You can usually check the temperature sensor by locating it and disconnecting the wire and then running the engine. If there is no change, or if it's now easy to start, then it's probably the temperature sensor.

If there's no change, then disconnected means that the engine is warm, so disconnecting it will make no difference, and the problem is probably the temperature (It could also be a bad connection to the sensor or a broken wire to the sensor, but even so, disconnected means warm). If the engine starts up easily after disconnecting the wire, then it means that disconnected tells the computer your engine is cold, and it's definatly a bad temperature sensor. If there is no temperature sensor on this vehicle, then there is some other mechanism that tells the engine to add fuel when the engine is cold because all engines require more fuel when cold.

The sensor was probably already barely failing, and the seafoam did nothing, and now the sensor is completely failed and the seafoam had nothing to do with it (again, just a guess).

06-12-2007, 01:57 AM
But wait, it idles fine, and lacks power. Now I'm changing my guess.

Idles fine, but no power when demanded means one of the following: bad spark plugs, wires, poor spark voltage, sparking at the wrong time, bad compression, too much fuel, too little fuel, unable to get air in or unable to get exhaust out.

I assume the engine was warm by the time it started running crappy?

I asked in another thread if it was possible to clear out a clogged CAT. I'll go check and see if anyone answered.

06-12-2007, 01:58 AM
it is sounding like a clogged exhaust. the cat on my s10 got clogged, it slowly lost power, after a while it wouldnt even drive it was clogged so bad. it idled great though lol. cats dont like heat, so maybe the extra heat from the burning seafoam did the cat in.

06-12-2007, 03:24 AM
Hey, isn't there an ODBII code for a clogged CAT? Is your engine light on? Do you have a code reader? If the engine light is on, you can borrow a code reader from an auto parts store like Autozone.

I tried searching the web for seafoam and clogged catalytic converter and couldn't find anything indicating that seafoam might clog the CAT.

But if the CAT was already pretty caked up, maybe the seafoam loosened up the crap and caused it to clog it up. Maybe it took a while for it to heat up and migrate into the cat to clog it.

I'm starting to think more and more that it's a clogged CAT.

You should be able to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold somewhere between the exhaust manifold and the cat to allow the exhaust to get out early. Then try it and see if it runs better.

I still think you have a temperature sensor problem that was causing the rough idle when cold, but now I think this problem has remained the same rather than gotten worse.

06-12-2007, 06:34 AM
Thanks for all of your help everyone -

Oseberg - I only wish the SES light would come on - but nope! We scanned for codes anyways and there are none. Which is surprising with how bad it is running now!

One thing that maybe someone can tell me about is something called short term and long term fuel adjustments (this is from our code reader program)? The "short term fuel adjustments" show everything now in negative numbers, like, -14, -12, -10, where as before they were in positive numbers. One mechanic thought it meant that we were running too rich (when in the negative numbers) and another thought we were running too lean.

Yes, the spark plugs were gapped correctly - I actually replaced them twice. There was no gunk on the plugs, they were also dry when I pulled them out both times. The things that made a huge difference for the times that it ran really well for awhile (hour or two) were changing the fuel filter and the second round of spark plugs. But then it eventually started to run rough again and die. It was always worse after using the carb cleaner on the throttle body. We did not take it off to clean it - just looked down into it.

Would gunk in the EGR valve do something like this? What about the PCV valve being stuck?

I will look in to the temperature sensor thing too.

Thanks again everyone for all of the input!

06-12-2007, 06:52 AM
You mentioned cleaning the MAF.... What did you use? The little sensor in those things are super sensitive and regular carb cleaner can dissolve the protective coating causing the sensor to fail.

My experiences with bad MAF sensors is that the vehicle will idle like a dream, but "bog down", hesitate, backfire, and other non-pleasant things when throttle applied.

However, bad MAF usually throws a code causing SES light to come on...

I just sold a 97 T-bird that had a bad MAF. The SES/check engine light was burned out... Is yours?



Gerry Proctor
06-12-2007, 07:32 AM
When you turn the key to RUN but without starting the car, does the SES light come on?

I can't imagine that if it's running as bad as you say that it's not setting the MIL. At least a misfire code.

As to the STFT and LTFT: The STFT is the comupters immediate reaction to the input from the O2 sensor switching. The output that you see on your scanner will fluctuate some. The negative means that the computer is trying to trim fuel down by shortening the injector pulse width. Your system is running rich right now. Positive numbers are the opposite. But those numbers aren't too bad and certainly not bad enough to be causing the problem. The LTFT is the adaptive component. When the STFT can't bring the LTFT in range, the computer will use a different fuel map. This is what happens when you drive from a sea level town to Denver. The computer constantly adapts to the environment. For most systems, the computer will not set a MIL code until you exceed + or - 20 percent on the fuel trim that it can't correct.

One thing about fuel trim is that it can be stubborn. It pays to disconnect the power to the ECM and let it go to sleep for about a half an hour. This will remove the keep alive memory and the computer will go into its base settings. From there it can relearn. If your scanner has Mode 6 and you know how to use it, you can usually trace a problem like this by comparing parameters to indicated values.

06-12-2007, 07:46 AM
In my experience a clogged cat will not set the SES light. bobuddy take off your front O2 sensor. I mean take it out of the exhaust manifold. Don't just disconnect it. Now when you start it, I guarantee you'll get a light. It'll also be loud because you'll have a nice big hole in your exhaust but, if the cat is clogged it'll relieve the back pressure. Now take it for a short spin. If it's running better you can be pretty sure the cat is clogged. Put the O2 sensor back in. Be sure to put some more anti-seize compound on it before you do. Your light will go out in a bit.

06-12-2007, 08:08 AM
Its a 1997 Nissan Hardbody PU. It has a KA24E engine - 4 cylinder with 130K miles on it. Its a bare bones PU that has been great for hauling hay to pastures, going to the feedstore, transporting dogs (I do foster care for the rescues around here)..... or was......

That requires a non-Saturn thinking cap. :dizzy: seahawk suggested disconnecting the converter in case it clogged up and chokes off the exhaust; it can happen but not from seafoam as most everyone here that used it became fond of the mosquito fogger the exhaust generated but no reported catcon clogging. Its worth a try even though it may be a pita. BarnOwl's idea of removing the O2 sensor is much easier to do though.

gs6950 mentions cleaning the MAF; as far as the service manuals for Saturn vehicles goes, there isn't any routine to clean the MAF sensor as I suspect that Nissan shares the same EFI system from Bosch EFI and the MAF in conjunction with the ECM performs a self cleaning process every time the engine is shut down. No maintenance is required and manual cleaning may do more harm than good as evidenced from past Saturn posts using a K&N oiled air filter element that oiled the MAF sensor inadvertently destroying it. Something to keep in mind.

The EGR valve may have become sticky as it isn't operating at idle but above it. Remove it and clean it, paying attention to the pintle valve seating completely on its seat and the shaft cleaned/scraped to allow smooth movement opening and closing. If its vacuum operated you can try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum line, disconnect the electrical connector if solenoid operated; if the p/u drives fine then you've found the problem and if it still drives terrible then its somewhere else. Disabling the EGR valve won't hurt engine running as its an emissions control device and you're only testing temporarily to isolate it from affecting engine running.

130k miles; has the fuel filter been changed? Maybe time for it if its restricting fuel flow. A quick test might be with depressing the fuel rail schrader valve (cover it with a rag) to observe for a healthy spray of fuel to verify fuel pressure. Or if you have a fuel pressure gauge to hook into it the pressure should be around 35-45 psi. And then there's the fuel pressure regulator; the vacuum side should not have any fuel in it otherwise the diaphragm is punctured and allowing excess fuel into the intake manifold. Just my 2-cents, hope this helps. :cool:

06-12-2007, 08:23 AM
We used electrical cleaner on the MAF, not carb cleaner. The two sensors in there looked good - no gunk or anything.

The last time I was brave enough to take it out for a drive I drove it down to a neighbor that fixes Citroens? for a living and he looked at it too (well, it died in front of his house). He took the MAF out and cleaned it again, threw in some more carb cleaner into the throttle body. It ideled great! Went to drive it away and stalled all the way home. He did say to add some fuel injector cleaner -maybe the seafoam clogged the injectors. I had added a bottle of Techron to it (it had a full tank of gas already) and then a second bottle at half of a tank. How long would it take for that stuff to work if it is going to help? On the other hand, the seafoam says it cleans injectors too! Maybe I should add the rest of the bottle?:D (I am trying to keep my sense of humor about this!)

I have found the EGR valve - its looks like the "mushroom" kind that wolfman talks about - not to submerge in cleaner. I am thinking of attempting to look at that tonight.

I have to find the O2 sensor.......

The Haynes manual on this vehicle is dicey - I have a FSM that I ordered that I am hoping will arive soon!

You guys are awesome!

06-12-2007, 08:27 AM
If it helps, try http://rockauto.com , not so much for prices but for their excellent parts pictures.

06-12-2007, 09:41 AM
I've only worked on two Nissans and both of them were Sentras. On those cars, the Exhaust manifold was in the front and the O2 sensor was in the bottom of the exhaust manifold just above the down pipe. It's shaped kind of like a spark plug with a small gauge wire coming out of it.

06-12-2007, 10:25 AM
This is a strange one, but my guesses lead to EGR, or the actual O2 sensor being screwed up by gunk burned off.

I'd second the remove the O2, but first simply disconnect it. The disconnection will check the O2 sensor, then removing it will give some indication of the converter.

The same applies to the MAF. The vehicle should run with it disconnected, but remain in open loop operation and won't use the sensors. You may be able to narrow down the problem based on that.

I think my first (well in your case next) step would be to look at the EGR real well. They can often be like a light switch when they go, with sudden problems.

I can't think of anything else that 1/3 a can of Seafoam might trigger a problem with. I've seen where people completely overdid the treatment and smoked out the entire neighborhood without negative results.

06-12-2007, 11:54 AM
Thanks for all of your help everyone -

Oseberg - I only wish the SES light would come on - but nope! We scanned for codes anyways and there are none. Which is surprising with how bad it is running now!

I cleaned my TB while on the car without running it. Yep... big nubie mistake. Anyway, my 94 SC2 ran very poorly afterward... white smoke and all.... white smoke went away, thought everything was good but.... NOPE... car shut off... left me stranded. That was the same night as the TB cleaning.

Next day, started the car and it idled rough... very rough.... More white smoke. I let it idle for awhile and the idle was back to normal with no smoke so I drove it down the street and the car shut off again and wouldn't crank.

When I did get it cranked, it ran like hell. SO, I did the following.

1. Took out the spark plugs.
2. Pulled the fuse for the fuel pump.
3. Turned the engine over a few times to clear out any liquid left over in the cylinders, just in case.
4. Cleaned plugs and reinstalled (they were fouled)
5. Re-installed fuel pump fuse.

After that, the car cranked and the problem was gone for good.

The main thing here is, the result was that I thought I had also killed my car, but I had carb cleaner and gunk in the intake manifold and it was too much for the car. Once it evaporated... burned off, the car ran fine.

About cleaning the TB while on the car, this was a lesson well learned and I will not do that again.:dizzy:

06-12-2007, 02:11 PM
Ive got money on the cat. converter. Why? Because I had an 89 Dodge Spirit when I was 17 and seafoamed it. It clogged the converter and took me weeks trying to find out what had happened.
Apparently using seafoam on an old mopar with over 200,000 miles and really bad rings and valve seals wasnt a good idea! :D

06-12-2007, 03:38 PM
Wow guys, these are all great suggestions of things to look at.:yes:

Hopefully it will be a solution like some of you have mentioned - and I didnt ruin my car afterall. I certainly dont want to have to tell my parents - "Um, remember that free vehicle you gave me? Well, I killed it with my stupidity.......":xeye:

BTW - thanks to all of you, my saturn is doing great! (Just to keep this in the saturn spirit!)

06-12-2007, 03:39 PM
I'll say this much. If it is the cat, it was on it's last legs anyway. I dumped a whole can through the PCV hose on my '96 and it had no ill effects.

06-12-2007, 03:45 PM
just cut the exhaust off.

06-12-2007, 05:31 PM
If you can prove that the problem is a clogged CAT, I'd experiment with cleaning it out with some sort of detergent. Maybe disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold, and clog up the end at the rear of the car and fill it with hot water full of laundry detergent or something.

(Since nobody will tell me how to clean out a CAT)

What the hell, why not? The only other way is to replace it. The guy I last bought a CAT from said it can't be cleaned, and running the hose through it would ruin it, but if it's already ruined, why not give it a try? Fill it with soapy laundry detergent and let it sit overnight. Or stop by Home Depot and buy a gallon of industrial degreaser for $15 and give that a try.

(Unless someone here has any better ideas.)

And if you try this, please let us all know the results. Does it unclog the CAT? and at your next smog check let us know your NOX readings (and make sure you go to a pass or don't pay, or a don't pass free retest place).

But then, I'm crazy. I'll try anything just cause I want to know what'll happen.

I'd fill it to the top and let it sit overnight. Then I'd let it all drain into a bucket when I was done, and collect it for reuse after backflushing with the hose for 15 minutes.

06-12-2007, 09:40 PM
Oseberg -
I live in KY so no emmisions testing here:D


Well, its getting humerous now.....

I unhooked the connection to the O2 sensor, and drove it around. It drove great - no hesitation, no rough idle, no bogging down, it actually had pretty good acceleration for the first time I can remember. THEN, at mile 8, it all went to crap. Bogging, hesitating, multiple stalling. I limped home for 2 miles and barely made it to the driveway having to drive with one foot on the gas and one on the brake to keep it from stalling. It even stalled with rpm's at 1100 - just cut out. Small to moderate amount of black smoke from the exhaust ONLY when running poorly.

I then unhooked the electrical connection to the MAF (and I think the same wires go to the temp sensor but not really sure about that). It ran,but not great. It was boggy and hesitating and acted like it wanted to stall but never did (for 10 miles). It did act like it was in fail safe mode - not accelerating, fluctuating transmission shifting, not reving above 2400. Overall, ran worse than the initial 7 miles without the O2 sensor but it never did the multiple stalling fits that it did on the prior test drive.

Here is the kicker - I hook up the connector back to the MAF - now it wont start (acts like its flooded). Unhook the connector to the MAF, starts right up and idles roughly. Hook up MAF, no start. Unhook MAF, starts up and idles rough. Hooking up the O2 sensor doesnt make a difference at all. So now I am thinking - okay its the MAF - but am I REALLY thinking correctly? If the MAF really isnt working at all why would it not start whether or not the electrical connections are hooked up? I am confused:dizzy: :dazed:

I need a drink.......

06-12-2007, 10:13 PM
Its just a guess but I think the EFI system won't come out of 'limp home' mode, created from disabling either the O2 sensor or the MAF sensor until the battery is disconnected or a reset can be performed from a diagnostics tool equipped to reset the EFI system's keep alive memory (12v from the battery). Removing the negative cable and pressing the brake pedal should discharge any memory from the ECM/PCM computer. Reconnecting everything before connecting the battery and before turning the key should reset everything back to the original problem. Its a bit too far fetched to wish this reset to correct the present problem though.

You deserve a drink. Go have one or two, chill out for a bit to think things over before round _.

06-13-2007, 08:32 AM
A battery reset should clear the problem with no start and the possible limp home mode.

I can't imagine it taking the truck that long to go into closed loop operation, and why it takes several miles before it starts having problems.

Did you ever check the EGR valve? I don't know what type of EGR that engine uses, but in some cases they can do funky things.

06-13-2007, 09:47 AM
Yeah, when it runs great, it really runs great. And then it goes from great to horrid in an instant.

I think I may be punting this one to the mechanic but before I do that, we will take the EGR valve off and see what we can do with that. And we will take the O2 sensor completely out too - we didnt get to that last night before it got dark. (Jobs/work get in the way of everything!)

The funny thing was - NO SES light when we disconnected the O2 sensor - No codes, nothing. For the few miles that I limped home with constant stalling - NO SES light came on. The SES did come on with the MAF disconnected so I know it is capable of doing lighting up.

Does anyone know if a bad MAF would keep the engine from starting at all?

Another possibility could be the fuel pump or sending unit - but we dont have the tools to check for fuel pressure, unless someone knows how to do it without the proper tools.

Still wondering about the cat. converter too - and the fuel injectors.

My brain hurts.....:dazed:

06-13-2007, 11:04 AM
Your car does not have a MAF sensor.

06-13-2007, 04:15 PM
it may be an overly simple idea, but...

you said you changed the plugs and wires after you seafoamed. if you kept your old wires, try tossing them back on. if not, let the car run for a few minutes at night and watch your engine bay for arcing. I know that when I was having power/stalling problems, I went nuts looking at all of my sensors and my cat and stuff, and then it turned out that my wires were total crap and the connectors weren't staying connected. generally, the car would run fine for the first 10 minutes of a trip, but as soon as the engine bay heated up and the rubber insulators expanded a little bit, the wires would slide right off of the plugs, and the spark would arc to my engine block. My car wasn't happy about it ^^;


06-13-2007, 05:33 PM
Your car does not have a MAF sensor.

BarnOwl -

Its a 1997 Nissan Hardbody PU. It has a KA24E engine - 4 cylinder with 130K miles on it. Its a bare bones PU that has been great for hauling hay to pastures, going to the feedstore, transporting dogs (I do foster care for the rescues around here)..... or was...... That's what was posted to Barn......from the description of what was cleaned it sounded like the maf I have have on my Exploder Maf and IAT all in one spot.

06-13-2007, 09:45 PM
Thewretched - very interesting post...... Both times it ran the best for the longest period of time was when I changed the spark plugs out - and reattatched the wires. Darn, the old wires are in the trash - that went out yesterday...... I wont get my hopes up, but its worth a try to run down and get different wires. I did get the cheapest wires.....

Well, tonight with the FSM in hand, we tested the a bunch of sensors including the MAF and all tested out in the normal voltage readings. The front O2 sensor tested fine, the rear didnt. We disconnected the front O2 sensor to test the cat like some have suggested- took it out completely and my husband drive it this time. It got a whopping 8 miles before it went into its famous stalling fits - prior to that, it ran beautifully. The longer it ran, the worse it got. AUUGGGGG!

I will change out the O2 sensors since they have never been done, try the spark plug wires and then it may have to limp to the mechanic in town (its 8 miles away - who wants to place bets on if we make it!:D ). We dont have the pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure and my husband is not interested in dropping the tank to test the fuel pump and sending unit.

Maybe I will put the rest of the seafom in the car........ my husband said it cant hurt........:p

06-14-2007, 09:10 AM
I'm not sure if this applies to your truck, but it might.

Since the problem seems to take place only after the engine gets heat soaked, you might want to see if you can find the ignition module. I know quite a few Fords had similar symptoms when they went. I have no idea where it is on your truck. Most vehicles have it on the firewall or on the inner fender somewhere, often using some type of heat sink as well.

If you can find it, some parts stores can check them for free. My local Advance store put mine through cycles for a half hour or so to see if it failed when it got warm.

Where your O2 sensor readings just voltage to the sensor or voltage across the sensor with the engine running?

06-14-2007, 03:34 PM
If it's running fine for 8 miles, it's only after it gets really warm. I think a clogged cat would manifest itself before them. Unfortunately, I don't know what tends to fail under heat on that truck. The ignition module is a good candidate though. I doubt this has anything to do with the Seafoam.

ooseberg, you cannot clean a clogged cat. You can take it off and bust the catalyst out of it and put it back on. If you have a '96 or later, that will set the SES light.

06-14-2007, 05:23 PM
Ignition module - okay, I will put that on the list too! Thanks!

I talked to several mechanics today that I see as patients in the office - both told me to look hard again at the idle air control. One mechanic worked at the local Ford dealer and one at a Nissan dealer. The Ford dealer was much more helpful than the Nissan dealer (unfortunately). The Ford guy thought that the IAC might have been the problem in the first place with the cold stalling/rough idle and then after the seafoam it broke some carbon loose and got the IAC stuck in a different place. He also said if the IAC malfunctions it doesnt ever throw a code.

Has anyone heard of 44K injection cleaner? The Ford guy said that is part of the stuff they use to clean the injectors in the shop and he would get it for me if I wanted. He liked it better than Techron.

Okay, off to the parts store to get more wires and distributor cap -

06-14-2007, 05:32 PM
Okay, off to the parts store to get more wires and distributor cap -

Distributor cap on a 1997 fuel injected Nissan? Hmmm.

06-14-2007, 05:33 PM
...and distributor cap - Not for your S-car.....

06-15-2007, 12:28 AM
Not for your S-car.....

for the pickup truck

06-15-2007, 08:08 AM
WTF is a post about a Nissan doing in a SATURN S-SERIES tech area?????
Off-Topic->Other Cars (http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=28) would have made much more sense.

06-15-2007, 08:58 AM
Fetch -
I agree, but I was desperate for any sort of information. Everyone on this site has been so helpful and knowlegeable with my saturn and I had never used seafoam before. My original question was what I might have done to my vehicle with using seafoam to make it run worse - since so many people on this board have experience with seafoam.

No other car forums have been helpful with my questions, and in the span of 4 days, I have gotten more help from this board than anyplace else.

I am grateful for all of the responses and suggestions I have gotten and with everyone's help I am checking things off the list of things to consider. :)

06-15-2007, 11:29 AM
i'm far from an expert, but halfway through this thread i started thinking IAC also. I had a very similar situation with idle not too long ago. sometimes it would start and idle fine and run like crap, and other days it would drive without hesitation, but idle was all over the map (mostly low and often requiring the gas/break pedal operation you had to do). After much cleaning of all things intake, it was deduced that my IAC was getting stuck in various positions, hence the good idle one day/bad idle the next. Not sure what the part costs for your car, but for mine, $40 and 10 minutes and i haven't heard a peep from that problem since. My old IAC was a mess of carbon. Cleaning it worked for about a week, then the problem returned. Replacing the IAC was the answer for me. Hope this helps. Again, i'm far from well versed in these matters.